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Belezeebub last won the day on October 5

Belezeebub had the most liked content!

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  1. I am upgrading to the Pro this month my S5 has a top that works very well just putting out feelers make me an offer (sorry US shipping only unless there is one hell of a reason) I'll take it apart so I can be sent flat packed and put bubble wrap between the sheets Make me an offer The Top has a fan and a small filter plus and external power supply for the fan. The Front opens for easy access
  2. Anything that is my design I post on Thingiverse, any item I print for a customer I sign an NDR on but I can share the ones I made. Thing 3069317, Thing 3908122 (I am making these for a local business they need 50 of them once I get the cut out correct and add room for all the screws and plus) Thing 3867477 might be useful here. I am not a designer I just dabble in tinkercad. I have made Holders for IR buds for work, Channel to mount ladder rack, Video camera mounts for my bosses house all in tinkercad I hope to use something better soon.
  3. I won't give you my answer instead I'll direct you to someone that has done far more testing Look up on youtube CNC Kitchen
  4. The Source of the burn looks like the Y/Z axis before I would do anything I would find the reason for the burn to start with, well made electrics parts don't short out like that without a reason (most of the time) so just replacing the board could release the magic blue smoke again. Just from the photo looks like a cap blew and maybe one or more of the stepper drivers
  5. My Company does use Ultimaker sure it is only slightly more then a hobby and all profits only goes towards buying me more filament to play with but I do earn money from my printer, I do claim it on my taxes and I am already planning on getting the new S5 upgrades in Oct. (My story so far) I am on my 6th 3d Printer now, its an S5 I plan on updating to the Pro shortly, I got into this as a business by accident. I recently purchased a new home; it was a big fixer upper. When the local window guy came out to replace the windows, I was sitting at the table working on my I3 Mk3 he asked me “what is that” we talked for a few minutes. He asked if I could make something for him, I said I would try, he rummaged in the back of his truck, he pulled out a mangled plastic part, he explained “ This is a window screen clip for aluminum windows, the company no longer exists, if someone needs a clip I have to sell them for 5 bucks each used” I looked at it spent 20 minutes in tinkercad and had a proto-type with great creative license because I had to basically guess what it looked like when it was new and still worked. 800 clips later it’s a business, I make proto-types and engineering samples, I do custom print orders with a few rules, 1. I will not print items downloaded from a website it must be your own item, and if I find the item object able I will not print it (I turned down an order for a very large multipart adult toy “gag gift” this year I made enough for the S5 and most of the pro upgrade cost. All in my spare time
  6. Just incase people wanted to know what I was printing, its a name plate for my new PC build (not finished yet) I am in the process of designing 3d printed covers for the case and shrouds for all of the wiring https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3515856
  7. I have central heat and AC so my room temp only varies by maybe two degrees, this is the same model printed from the same filament, on the same printer I didn't adjust the print cores I just lowered the temp 5 degrees for nozzle and plate
  8. Yes it is my S5 while I did show two different colors I have ran 9 rolls of this Um black PLA through my printer since purchasing it, and only after the new firmware did I start having this issue, I am printing a new example at -5 temp it should be done in 4 hours, it could also be a nozzle issue I might have installed the left AA in the right side which technically shouldn't make a difference but one is much newer then the other.
  9. Black new firmware noticed the curling and holes red old firmware I am going to drop my temps back 5 each on hot end and build plate and try again.
  10. Well Bad news The cleaning service sent a new person and she cleaned up my work shop and tosses out some "trash' off my desk including my Calibration card anyone want to tell me how thick it is supposed to be and I'll just use a feeler gauge.
  11. I have been using good old UHU glue stick on my glass plates forever it just works. Now that I have my S5, I can work on orders that require filaments that are more exotic. I am building a fully sealed Chamber with a vent hood for the printer, complete with active carbon filters venting outside. I have 2X CC Red Ordered. My first Order is sample prints in Nylon, CPE and Poly Carbonate. I asked about the LayerLock Garolite no one has used it yep but I will pick one up once they are back in stock just for testing. (However, I digress) Let us talk 3d Adhesives. Which ones have you used and would you suggest for Nylon CPE and PC. Can anyone explain why 25ML of what is water-soluble glue is 20 bucks? That will alter my per part cost. Magigoo 19.95 for 100 Applications about 20 cents each time you use it and you have to use it in one month? Stick Stick? Dimafix seems to work bests for HIGH bed temperatures 75c+ Smart Stick Nano Polymer Adhesive?
  12. I need to start printing some glow in the dark and metal fill filaments anyone used the Solex or the CC cord want to give me their two cents? Ultimaker CC red Ruby has a Mohs hardness of 9.0 Pro Made by Ultimaker designed for the S5 Con One size Solex HardCore Pro 7 Stainless steel has a 5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, I am assuming they are closer to five on this part because of the cost. Pro’s Cost Extra Sized Comes with .25mm, .4mm, .5mmss, .6mm, .8mm and 1.00mm nozzels Con Never heard of Solex but a few google searches show it is most likely a Knock-off of the Ultimaker part, and quick google search I find posts about them working but only “Kind of” fitting correctly.
  13. I have made three attempts to print Reuleaux Triangle Bearing Gears (thing:2897010) all with Tough Ultimaker PLA the latest one at .06 all hopelessly fused. 20% Infill I turned off Fill Gaps between walls and it was the lease fused I was able to break it apart but without that setting even a bowl of Wheaties, can of Spinach, ten billion rems of gamma radiation and plyers can't move it (right side) I am running 4.2.1 Any suggestions? I was able to print the same thing first time on my MK3, do I need grab a .025 hotend? I am using this to dial in the printer before I try "GYRO the DODO by Stijn ) I want one on my desk
  14. I have cash, credit card, Paypal heck even gold or silver, Pm me when you have them for a S5
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