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LeckieInstalls

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Everything posted by LeckieInstalls

  1. Im using Neat brand translucent filament and found the sweet spot for layer adhesion is 245-270 depending on how fast Im printing. I would agree that going as low as 215 would make the filament a lot less runny, its just that this particular filament is really dependent on having that higher heat to get layer adhesion. Unfortunately we do not have the luxury of experimenting with filaments right now during this pandemic. I must use the stock pile of Neat PETG that we already have/
  2. I just got the S3 and Im super disappointed. I print in mostly translucent PETG and by the time the printer moves about 60mm to go from one part to another the nozzle oozes all over the place making a huge mess. This was not a problem whatsoever with my Ultimaker 3 Extended where I could set the travel seed and travel jerk values high (400mm/s) just for this reason producing perfect parts that dont need to be cleaned at all. I just bought a $5500 paper weight. And yes, Ive tried adding more retraction which actually makes it worse since it just adds more time to complete the move
  3. Is there any version of cura for mac that supports "Overhang wall fan speed"? This is absolutely essential for PTGE!
  4. Thanks for the response, unfortunately the text has to stay the way it is. These are thin wall tubes. not too many flat surfaces to work with.
  5. best thing to do is to not let that happen. If you start a large print and you're halfway through your spool and have no idea if the print will make it through, this is what I do: I remove the filament spool while keeping the filament connected to the machine, then set the entire spool on a scale. Try to make sure there is no stress from the attached filament causing more or less weight on the scale. Do this by unspooling a few feet. Most filament spools have the weight of the spool written on them. So subtract that weight from your total weight and if you are left with more than what the slicer requires, you should be good to go! However, if there is less.. I would splice filament onto the spool rather than roll the dice and try to feed new filament into the machine when it runs out and pray the machine is not in a retraction operation!
  6. Hi guys, does anybody know of a setting that will slow the printer speed down around a selected area? I have a ton of parts that I need to print so im trying to keep my speeds higher but there is some extruded text along a wall (see photo), my high speed prints are coming out perfect except for the text. Stock settings with CURA and though PLA on the UM3 are having this part come out at 2.5hours and the text is clear, Ive got the print down to 1H19min and the part is stronger than ever! But I can hardly read the text when I print this fast since the machine is not that rigid. Any input would be appreciated!
  7. Hi all, I am trying to tune my print. I am using Cura 3.6. When I change the layer height, my total time is reflected accordingly. However when I change my print speed settings, there is no change in print time. I tried the new 4.0 beta release to find this works as it should but Fusion 360 gives me an error and wont let me send the print file directly. So, what versions is everyone currently using? Chris
  8. Ive spent the day printing small models trying to tune my machine for UM PLA. Ive got things dialled in nicely other than this infill issue. What setting is responsible for the infill zig zag which for my prints seems to be over extruding? I do not want to affect the inside or outside walls, just the inner fill that getting messy.
  9. So I decided to update my UM3 and Cura to 2.5 today just to find all the awesome profiles that I cant use because of a strange problem with Cura and my machine. When I send a print the machine starters up and the print head and build plate moves then seconds after UM3 display reads "print complete, remove print". Thats not right! On my Mac (current highest level 27" iMac) I found rolling back to 2.4, cura just crashes on start up. I got back to 2.3.1 and my printer is back in business. Hope this gets solved soon! I got a taste of TPU and CPE+ presets and a cleaner UI!
  10. Thanks for the tip. The current preset actually runs 265c on the print core.. Im sure you can go too hot too that will cause the same thing to happen.
  11. Thanks for the input guys. I spent the money on the UM3 because I didnt want to have to experiment with settings and was under the impression that the machine will print well with PLA out of the box. Its clear this is not the case. my current piece is a 22 hour print. So I will make a smaller test piece and try out some of your suggestions. It would make sense to increase heat and maybe slow down the print head travel slightly. Once I find the best settings I will post them here unless someone else has those settings!
  12. Hello everyone, I have a project that requires a large piece to be air tight. I have printed it a few times now and find air is escaping between my laminates. I am using Ultimaker black filament with "recommended" settings. Anybody have some better settings for this?
  13. Thats really good to know. I did purchase some Nylon from you and it does really print well! If I wanted to use Polycarbonate, what can I use for supports? I ran the settings for PC and it came out looking really nice but just fell apart. I did another piece at 300c and it is much stronger and came out even better than the first. Doing a 3rd one right now at 325c, I will let you know how that one comes out.
  14. Ok great! I actually bought the machine from your store online. I have only had one successful print using PLA and PVA support. been trying to print a focus gear for a lens out of ABS with no luck. The teeth keep turning out to be blobs. Im using the ABS profile to print PC as we speak! set 260c and the bed max at 105c. about 6 layers in and looks pretty good so far. Are there optimal settings for this material that you can recommend? Thanks in advance!
  15. I purchased an UM3 extended with one of each Ultimaker filament materials. I just read through the UM3 manual and found that Polycarbonate is not supported by this machine but the UM2 does support printing with PC! Is the UM3 not an upgrade machine from the UM2? We need to print very strong parts, I was told that PC is the way to go.
  16. Is there a way to align the 2 print cores? I am finding when I print with 2 materials the second material is slightly offset. I have had a look through the forum and have not found any information on this.
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