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vincentbaas

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Posts posted by vincentbaas


  1. I'm having a strange issue with my UMO+, that I haven't been able to figure out myself. My last succesful print was a pretty large 5h print, but after that the problems started. It prints a very uneven first layer, it almost looks like too much material is deposited. This causes the nozzle to start 'plowing' through the material, and causes it to push down the print bed. At first I thought it was a feeder issue, as the knurled bolt was grinding into the filament. But now I think the issue must be somewhere else, as the feeder seems to be working fine. 

     

    I feel I've tried all the options I could think of myself, so I need your help here. Am I having a first layer or a feeder issue? Or is it something else? 

     

    Things I've tried already:

    • Cleaning the nozzle (atomic), knurled wheel, and bowden tube multiple times
    • Replacing the little black feeder wheel with a steel bearing
    • Changing material (both ColorFabb PLA/PHA and Ultimaker PLA)
    • Checked if belts, pulleys and other screws were still tightened
    • Leveled the print bed multiple times, both closer and further away from the nozzle
    • Checked the PTFE coupler, it still looks fine
    • Checked and tightened the screws in my pulleys, short belts, print head. None of theme were loose. 

     

    Pictures:

    Test cubes: 0.3 mm first layer at 205C, bed at 50C. Left 100% flow, right 80% flow.

    IMG_2413.thumb.JPG.f0c2cb74a743c34707301a621617490d.JPG

     

    Bed leveling test: 205C, bed at 60C. The print itself is even, only the material 'plowing' remains. 

    IMG_2410.thumb.JPG.973559c9e3c807f23da634a2136595a1.JPG

     

     


  2. Recently I've been playing with the thought of upgrading my UMO+ with a dual fan setup. However, I don't have a stainless steel nozzle and a roll of Carbonfill laying around to print the fan cap, as recommended in the Ultimaker upgrade guide. What I do have is a few small samples of ColorFabb_HT, which I bought for experimentation purposes. Looking at the glass transition temperatures HT should be able to handle the heat even better than ColorFabb's carbon filament (HT: 100C vs XT-CF20 75C).

     

    So would it make sense to use HT for this purpose? 


  3. Ik heb het zelf tot nu toe bij printen met PLA gehouden, maar op basis van wat ik overal lees heeft ABS sowieso de neiging om te krimpen, wat de oorzaak zou kunnen zijn voor zowel het maatverschil als het kromtrekken. De temperatuur verhogen zou kunnen helpen voor het beter laten hechten van de lagen.

    Voor een beter beeld van het probleem: welk materiaal (kleur / fabrikant) gebruik je en wat voor andere printinstellingen (o.a. snelheid, ventilator) heb je gekozen?


  4. Cura has some settings for the Z-seam, either changing its coordinates to hide it somewhere in your model or to randomize it. The first option probably won't work for your model, as there are not a lot of corners to hide the Z-seam in. Randomizing might help in your case. Not sure if there are any other settings to consider here.

    5a333b8894dd8_Schermafbeelding2017-05-31om16_59_45.png.7f14307e1bb4c109c02928d00e044830.png

    5a333b8894dd8_Schermafbeelding2017-05-31om16_59_45.png.7f14307e1bb4c109c02928d00e044830.png


  5. Welkom! Je printbed staat inderdaad waarschijnlijk te ver van je nozzle af waardoor je eerste laag niet voldoende in elkaar wordt gedrukt. Een kwestie van met de stelschroeven van het bed het geheel iets dichter bij de nozzle zetten.


  6. I guess because your model is too big to fit in the build volume of your printer and you have 'Scale large models' turned in Cura's settings. In that case Cura will automatically scale the model until it fits the print volume. Not sure if this may also be a unit issue (mm vs cm etc), but otherwise you may have to split your model into multiple pieces.

    • Like 1

  7. For the top layer it might be wise to check both the layer view and the X-ray view in Cura. Both will show you if there's something wrong with your settings / model before committing to a print. Also, there should be a setting somewhere that removes the top surface, but right now I can't remember which one it was. Maybe someone else can jump in here?

    The stringing in the vase might be a result from the combing setting, which deposits some material inside your object while minimizing retractions. Might be related to Cura thinking that the model should have a closed top. No problem for solid objects, but of course not for hollow stuff. So turn combing off should help here. But for vases there also is the Spiralize option, which prints your entire vase in one spiral trajectory, without moving through the middle at all.

    Hope this helps!

    Edit: I guess setting your top thickness to 0 should also do the trick here. And for spiralize: forgot to mention that this will only give you a vase of 1 layer (= your nozzle diameter) thick.


  8. I was about to post a topic on this issue too, so I'm joining the conversation. I am using Cura 2.5 final as well, on OS X 10.11.6.

    When dropping a model on the build plate with "Automatically drop models to the build plate" disabled my model loads halfway below Z=0. Changing the value to 0 manually indeed doesn't work and the Z-value is reverted to the previous negative value, while dragging the model upwards does. After dragging the model up I can change or drag the value to anything I want. Turning the automatic drop option back on reverts the issue, now I can't change the Z-value to anything else than 0.


  9. Zelf heb ik op mijn Original+ ook wat problemen gehad met de feeder. In veel gevallen heeft het te maken met te veel / te weinig speling tussen de onderdelen. In dit topic kun je lezen hoe dat mij vergaan is.

    Als ik je probleem goed begrijp zijn er op basis van mijn eigen (beperkte) ervaring een aantal dingen om te controleren:

    1) Kijk of de gekartelde bout (knurled nut in de handleiding / omschrijving) voldoende (maar ook weer niet te ver, zie mijn eigen topic) door de feeder heen steekt.

    5a733372b4a24_KnurledwheelUltimakerOriginal.thumb.jpg.41ab03d757e6abac4a714787d391f70b.jpg

    2) Controleer of je motor + tandwiel goed zijn gemonteerd en duw het motortandwiel goed tegen het houten tandwiel aan als je alles vastmaakt

    5a73337d1999f_feederUltimakerOriginalassembly.thumb.jpg.be55a74279c77bf1da8d44ee06ffc376.jpg


  10. I am facing a problem with the feeder on my UMO+: the large feeder wheel is touching the bolt below it (holding the body together). It has managed to loosen the lock nut on the bolt multiple times already. The feeder itself is functioning properly in terms of extrusion, only the wheel is causing some friction and noise.

    Pictures and video for clarification:

    5a33366d3e3f8_Foto14-04-17115323.thumb.jpg.258ee0857aa676b6cf1137fb04787fde.jpg

    5a33366d711c6_Foto14-04-17115341.thumb.jpg.6cbcce39f8b72efafb114188f4de68e0.jpg

    Manually rotating the wheel with the feeder unmounted

     

    I have already tried to disassemble the feeder and straighten things by hand, but I can't seem to locate the source of the misalignment. My bearings, knurled nut and the wood itself all seem straight / uniform, so I have ran out of ideas what could be causing this. Any suggestions on how I could fix this problem?

    5a33366d3e3f8_Foto14-04-17115323.thumb.jpg.258ee0857aa676b6cf1137fb04787fde.jpg

    5a33366d711c6_Foto14-04-17115341.thumb.jpg.6cbcce39f8b72efafb114188f4de68e0.jpg


  11. Cura has two settings (hidden by default if I'm right): 'Regular fan speed at height' and ' Regular fan speed at layer' which should help in turning the fans on at a specific height (in mm) or layer (number, like you asked).


  12. After I noticed one of my UMO+ axle covers came loose due to friction from the axle, the plan to upgrade escalated into also wanting to replace my X/Y blocks while I'm at it. I was planning to go for the Lars' Ultralight ones.

    But before I start printing I would love your input on one thing: what would be a good fill percentage for these parts? As I can imagine a high fill rate would be good for strength, but wouldn't that also make them heavier and thus harder to move around?


  13. Well, it took me even longer to reply, so no worries :p

    I trued resetting Cura, but that didn't help. But I might have found something that may (or may not ) have resolved the issue: In the initial situation I had my keyboard connected via the USB-hub of my external display (Dell Ultrasharp U2515H). I changed this to plugging my keyboard directly into my laptop. Anyway: the issue is gone now, so thanks for the support!


  14. I ran into a strange issue when using Cura: the application seems to be 'stuck' on zoom mode. After loading a model (any model) and panning/zooming around a bit, when I move my mouse up and down the viewport keeps zooming in and out by itself (without me pushing any keyboard keys and only moving my mouse). I can no longer select my model or stop zooming. I noticed the issue (video included below) on Cura 2.3, but upgrading to 2.4 didn't resolve the issue. I'm running OX X 10.11.6 on a mid-2010 15" MacBook Pro. Is this a bug in Cura or are there any other suggestions for fixing it?

     


  15. After I got my replacement parts today, used them to reassemble my hot end. Everything went well, no leaks so far halfway through a 1:30h print. So I guess the leak was caused by not tightening the nozzle while hot (or: following the manual too closely :p). I'll try to clean the leftover pipe someday and maybe try to find a way to salvage the block, so I can use them as spares. But for now: back to printing :p

    Summary of learnings (so others don't make the same mistake :p ):

    - Don't literally follow the assembly manual, especially assembling screwing in hot end parts while cold ;-)

    - Don't go Schwarzenegger on your brass parts while disassembling ;-)

    - Leave space (0.5-1 mm) between block and nozzle, then tighten nozzle while hot (per amadee's instruction)

    Thanks for the support!

    • Like 2

  16. Temperature was set at 160 C when it broke off, so maybe not hot hot, but at least hot.

    Managed to get everything disassembled now (screw holding the heater and sensor in place was a pain in the ass, but it worked), besides the broken nozzle from the block. I'll see if I can get my hands on the screw removal tool, but in the meantime a new block might be the best way to go then. Thanks for the support!

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