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Everything posted by vincentbaas

  1. After I got my replacement parts today, used them to reassemble my hot end. Everything went well, no leaks so far halfway through a 1:30h print. So I guess the leak was caused by not tightening the nozzle while hot (or: following the manual too closely ). I'll try to clean the leftover pipe someday and maybe try to find a way to salvage the block, so I can use them as spares. But for now: back to printing Summary of learnings (so others don't make the same mistake ): - Don't literally follow the assembly manual, especially assembling screwing in hot end parts while cold ;-) - Don't go Schwarzenegger on your brass parts while disassembling ;-) - Leave space (0.5-1 mm) between block and nozzle, then tighten nozzle while hot (per amadee's instruction) Thanks for the support!
  2. Temperature was set at 160 C when it broke off, so maybe not hot hot, but at least hot. Managed to get everything disassembled now (screw holding the heater and sensor in place was a pain in the ass, but it worked), besides the broken nozzle from the block. I'll see if I can get my hands on the screw removal tool, but in the meantime a new block might be the best way to go then. Thanks for the support!
  3. Ok, when the instruction says gently, it of course means gently When trying to unscrew the nozzle (after 3 atomics that came out clean) I applied too much force and broke off the nozzle in heater block. Shit happens I guess, and I'll take it as a learning experience ;-) [media-thumb=32847] I assume the next step is completely replacing the nozzle, aluminum block and barrel, while salvaging the PTFE coupler, PT100 and heater element? Any tips on safely removing the still usable parts? And since I have to order new parts anyway, suggestions on which ones to order? I already came across suggestions on UM2 hot-ends, Olssen blocks or ED3? [/media-thumb]
  4. Wow, thanks for all the input! I was thinking the same for the hot end assembly, I found it a bit strange that all nozzle issue instructions suggest hot tightening while the manual tells you to do it while cold :S As I don't have pure alcohol and a gas torch laying around, I'll give the method suggested by @neotko a try, and see how clean I can get things before unscrewing them. I'll let you know how it goes!
  5. I was thinking of doing one more print before taking things apart for comparison, but after seeing smoke from burnt plastic rise from the print head I decided to skip that step ;-) Removed the fan shroud and took some pictures of the situation: So it looks like my nozzle is indeed touching the block, but that I did install the isolator tube in the correct direction. Full hot-end disassembly it is then? Any tips on how to do it, besides following the assembly manual in reverse? I guess there's solidified filament in the nozzle that will make disassembly harder? Oh, and thanks for the gloves tip, noted ;-)
  6. I recently bought a new UMO+ and I am very satisfied with it so far. However, I still have a problem that prevents me from getting perfect prints. The problem: there's PLA leaking on top of the heater block (printing in Ultimaker Silver metallic at 200 C), which ultimately leaks down the block and onto my nozzle and prints. Also, I noticed that the heater block is able to rotate a bit. I already tried the following: Letting it be, hoping it would seal itself. Didn't help, PLA keeps leaking out. Cleaning and tightening the nozzle. Again, didn't help. Since the heater block can rotate, I'm afraid I messed up when assembling the hot end and didn't tighten everything enough. So any suggestions on what I might do to fix this? Or any instructions on properly disassembling and reassembling the hot end?
  7. Version 1.0


    First real print on my new UMO+. Very satisfied with the result, only some small support residue below the chin.
  8. Fixed it! Steps taken: - Fully lubricated the axes before I put them in - Tightened the motor pulleys (didn't do that enough the first time, as it is easy to forget early on in the assembly) - Added washers at the end caps - Tightened the hell out of my other pulleys (however, aligning the set screws so they are visible at the same time was difficult) - Aligned the x and y axis using the calibration sticks Printer is spinning happily now on its 2nd print!
  9. Putting the pulley set screws in the right place isn't too late, as I disassembled all axes and removed the print head. I was planning on doing these assembly steps again and be extra careful to check clearance between the bearings, axes and end caps. So I will definitely pay attention to the set screw positions (already had some frustrations with reaching them indeed). Thanks for the tips!
  10. I have already installed the pullies, but I switched the set screws anyway (with some difficulties reaching them). Now still some difficulties with the print head movement, but the set screw issue is resolved. Thanks!
  11. Just finished assembling my Original+. When I got to calibrating the bed as preparation for my first print I ran into some difficulties which I need some help with. When bed leveling should move the head to the first position, I can hear and feel the X and Y motors turn on. However, the print head itself doesn't move. Also, moving the head manually is quite difficult. I put some mineral oil on the axes, but this didn't help much. From some quick strolling around the forum I got that it may either be friction from the end caps or misalignment of the pullies/axes. Or am I missing something else?
  12. Thanks, it's my first printer indeed! About halfway done now I think, really looking forward to turning it on
  13. Thanks, that explains a lot! My pulleys already have set screws in them, but at least I get what the part is for!
  14. Hi everyone, I just received my first Ultimaker Original+. When unpacking the box I checked if everything was complete and I found an extra bag of parts (see picture below) that was not listed in the manual. I found it listed on the Ultimaker 2 parts list. Just to be sure: can I disregard this part when building my Original+?
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