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XYZDesignPro

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Everything posted by XYZDesignPro

  1. You can install the SolidWorks Integration plug in the same way.
  2. You are certainly welcome. Self isolating leaves a lot of time to kill. Doing something like this, along with printing clear face shields for our local medical personnel, helps fill the time. All while my wife of 47 years and I do jig saw puzzles. We haven't killed each other so it must be a testament to having chosen the right life's partner. BTW, purchasing a jig saw puzzle on Amazon, or anywhere else for that matter, is trying to buy a role toilet paper!🤕
  3. Here is a picture of what I came up with by modifying you settings. Here's the profile: XYZ Cylinder.curaprofile Increased your infill to 25%, placed the Z Seam at 220 X and 220 Y, selected Z Seam Relative so both parts would have the Z seam in the same location and to place all of the z scars in a straight line up and down the part wall. I think much of the bumps you are seeing are the Z scars randomly appearing about the part at layer change. No Brim, just a single Skirt line. Adhesion was fine. Lastly I made the top and bottom pattern "Concentric" because I think it looks better aesthetically. Print time was 1 hour. The parts do not quite telescope together. I.D. is 15.00mm average while the O.D. of the Cylinder was 15.15mm. May have to adjust the original model, or experiment with the "Horizontal Expansion" setting in Cura, if that was your design intent. Caution: This profile was created in Cura 4.2.1 for an Ultimaker 3 Extended. May not be compatible with your printer. Good luck . . .
  4. The artifacts seem to disappear after the shorter column is complete. Have you tried printing them individually? Is there some reason they have to be printed together? Also, I find that reducing all travel and jerk settings by half often improves the overall quality of the print. And is certainly easier on the machine's mechanics.
  5. Caution. My machines are UM3 Extended. If your UM3 is the standard that may have an impact on the settings. They may be incompatible. I really don't know . . .
  6. Here is my profile. You can use it as a starting point. I use it with my Ultimaker 3 Extended. My nozzle size is .6 because I have 3D Solex print cores with interchangeable nozzles. If you are using the standard .4 Ultimaker print core just change the line width to .35 or .37 or so. As they say, YMMV. Face Shield .3 Layer .6 Nozzle PET.curaprofile
  7. I have seen this behavior when the "Z Seam Alignment" is set to Random.
  8. Looks as though you have worked out an acceptable solution for PET. Glad I was able to help. Did the increase layer height to .3 help to reduce the stringing? The minimalist" design I an printing is the Verkstan design: https://3dprint.nih.gov/discover/3dpx-013306 The clear shields are just 10mil PVC binding covers I purchase from Lamination Depot located just north of you in Orange County. LaminationDepot.com https://www.laminationdepot.com/binding-supplies-and-equipment/binding-covers/clear-covers Approximately $35/100 pieces delivered. So the price is right. Either way let's keep doing what we can to assist those health providers on the front lines . . .👌
  9. Glad your having better success. Quote "Do you have any idea if the bottom and top patterns being concentric makes a difference? " I think it does. Fewer retractions. I also thing it leaves a more aesthetically pleasing appearance. You might try concentric infill at 100% as well. Again, fewer retractions. That said, I've never experience a part so difficult to print in PETG. I tried altering my settings and I'm still not pleased with the result. Too much stringing. This is a shield frame I have been printing for a couple of weeks. Only takes 45 minutes. Donating them to our family doctor who's specialty is Infectious Disease. Also our family dentist. The clear shield itself is 10mil, 8.5" X 11 letter size, clear PVC punched with a standard 6 hole punch. Very easy to make. I've produced 30 of them so far.
  10. OK. In Windows All you do is RMB and choose "open with" and choose Notepad. Can't help you with anything Apple. Opened your file in SolidWorks 2020 and it does have a problem. The left post does not touch the build plate so it leaves overhang that can't be printed. Starts stringing almost immediately. Also the engraving on the left side probably printed OK in PLA, but not so well in PETG because of poor bridging in PETG. I buried the part .5mm into the build plate with a.25 layer height and so far it is printing pretty well. What are you using on the build plate for adhesion? I use PVA slurry for PETG.
  11. You cannot open a UM3 profile in Cura configured for a S5. The two machines are not compatible. You will need to open the profile file in Windows Notepad to see the jerk settings you asked about.
  12. Cura says it will print in 1hr 55 mins. I'll let you know. Where are you on the planet?
  13. Here is my UM3 Ext. profile for printing PETG. This will not work with your S5, but if you open it with the Notepad application in Windows, you can see all of the settings. Small Part .6 Nozzle .15 Layer PET.curaprofile If you would like to post your part file here, I'll be happy to try printing it with the PETG materials I have on hand. To see the result.
  14. Do you have access to any other brands of PETG? It could be just that particular product. Your photo shows a brim around the part for adhesion, just as you ask Cura to do. If you do not want a brim but rather a couple of lines of material separated from the part for priming the nozzle, choose "Skirt".
  15. It appears you are using a UM S5? is this Ultimaker material? Is it black? Have you tried a different roll of PETG or other colors? I have printed generic PETG on both of my UM3 Extended with out problem using the default settings for CPE. Both clear and white. I do reduce the travel and jerk settings by about 50% though, because I find the default settings of those parameters too violent. Perhaps try another print core. One that has never printed PLA?
  16. "That looks pretty good" is an understatement IMHO !! I've never seen a part printed in "Vase" mode with any details like your fins. Congrats if this is only your second print. Perhaps you might try printing a more convention part, but specify zero infill to make it hollow with 3 walls, .2 layer. 6 bottom layers, no top layers, with a .4 nozzle. Unfortunately, unlike vase mode, you will end up with a "Z" scar somewhere on the side of the part. I print mainly models of plastic bottles and they are printed hollow. Don't know if any of this will help you.
  17. The head will need to be disassembled. Try the fbrc8 Support web site for some pretty good tips and tutorials: https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/206151456-Changing-Parts-in-the-Print-Head
  18. Perhaps fbrc8 the USA assembler and distributor will have something on the Support site. https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/206151456-Changing-Parts-in-the-Print-Head
  19. Makes sense. I have no experience with CNC machines. I was simply referring specifically to 3D mechanical CAD modeling software and the desire of AbeFM, above, to be able to automatically flip his SWX model 90°.
  20. As a SolidWorks user for 20 + years, far as I know, the Y axis is always up in 3D modeling software. If you are using SolidWorks, the Cura Plug in does the rotation for you automatically. Try it. Works incredibly well. https://thopiekar.eu/cura/cad/solidworks/ Also there is a plug in called Auto-Orientation available in the market place. No experience with it, but just do what you are looking for.
  21. Thanks. The paint and color matching credit goes to my wife. 👌 Black "Sharpie" pen for the dark and some kind of eye shadow make-up for the lighter color, finished off with a clear coat.
  22. So we received a jigsaw puzzle from my wife's twin sister to work on while self isolating. She did advise us that she thought there was a piece missing, and sure enough there was. With that as a challenge, I photographed the missing piece of the puzzle, brought it into SolidWorks and vectorized it using "Sketch Picture", extruded it to 0.080" (2mm) sent it to Cura and in turn sent to my UM3. My wife then painted it to perfection and "Voila" the lighthouse was restored. Now I'm just looking for the next project.
  23. Interesting re-purpose of a $5,000 3D printer. That said, the bread looks absolutely delicious. What kind of bread is it??
  24. I'm live on the map. Took about 3 days . . .
  25. The gear bearing parts in the photos above were printed at .2 layer, .35 nozzle. .35 line width, 200° print temp, 60° build plate. Pretty much Cura defaults for PLA. I always reduce the travel, jerk, acceleration and other associated settings by about half because I feel they are just set excessively high in Cura by default IMO. The vase is pretty much the same settings accept .6 nozzle and "Spiralize Outer Contour". It's about 7" high. Layer and build plate adhesion are excellent. UM3 Extended, Cura 4.2.1 See my review on Amazon for a review: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RKP01J3MCO1HB/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B07GP31WY6
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