XYZDesignPro

I am using Cura 2.5. I was just reading that by default Cura (might?) output the Ultimaker flavor of gcode, rather than the standard gcode. I wonder if changing this setting will have any impact on the print? Its definitly one major difference between Cura and S3D. If your UM2+ is "stock" and you have downloaded the latest Cura 2.5 firmware to it the gcode should be correct. That said, you might try Cura 2.4. Cura 2.5 was the first multithread version of Cura, and I personally had some odd problems with it and continue to use 2.4 for my production work. Caution, put 2.4 on a different machine as this version, I believe, will overwrite the 2.5 version on your machine. Hope this helps . . .

I had started to gather data on this in my original post, but stopped because it seemed irrelevant. I use the same materials from the same brands, printing at the same temperatures, with the same thicknesses, at the same speeds, the same layer height, and the same retraction settings, etc..., in S3D and get perfect results every time (really the UM2+ is amazing ~200 hours printing since I got it a couple weeks ago, and its never once messed up a part (except the Cura issue)). I have gotten Cura to produce a good print, once. Same materials, same settings, same everything as above. It was a perfect print. Made even better by the fact that Cura made circular supports! It had some small circle shaped holes in the bottom and Cura filled those with supports that made sense where S3D tried to fit rectangle/linear supports in there (and there is little to no room for that). This is one of the reasons I keep trying Cura even though S3D works great for me in all other aspects. What version of Cura are you using?

Are you sure? I think it's sls printed in nylon. The original plastic part from ultimaker is peek, so for sure has a higher temperature resistance. That does not mean nylon has to be an issue.... but I don't think ultimaker is using the much more expensive peek for no reason..... No, I'm not saying I know for sure how the 3DSolex core is made. If you believe they are indeed printed in nylon you may very well be correct. I can say for sure that in my limited experience (300 hours or so on two different UM3 Ext machines that I own) I have seen no discernible difference in printing performance between the 3DSolex, with a .4 nozzle, and original Ultimaker cores using PLA material exclusively, from various sources. In addition, IMHO the squeezing / locking mechanism of the 3DSolex core is smoother and more effortless.

I have two UM3 Ext machines. Because of that, I have both a converted Ultimaker and a 3DSolex core. Both perform the same. I'll admit, that the 3DSolex core looks less sophisticated (almost like it was printed, although it is not). That said, I think that the retraction of the nozzle locking mechanism when inserting into and out of the print head works more smoothly on the 3DSolex core. Purchased from https://thegr5store.com/store/

Thanks gr5 for taking care of that. Hopefully mhotze will take advantage of your generosity on my behalf. It's a very nicely done post of the files.

Popped off of the build plate ready to spin. Printed perfectly using Cura 2.4 default Fast Print setting except: Infill - Lines at 35% Adhesion - Skirt Print Speed - 70 Print Acceleration - 2000 Travel Acceleration - 2000 Print Jerk - 10 Travel Jerk - 10 Took 34 minutes. Thanks for sharing . . .

Looks as though we drifted well of of the original topic here. . No matter . . . Looks like this is a Volkswagon logo? If so, is the STL file available? I'd really like to print one for an associate. Does the center spin within the outer ring?

It appears you are using Concentric for your Top/Bottom pattern. If so, on such a small part, the build up of material at the nozzle can be excessive. Scaling up the part 2X masks the problem because the root diameter of the smaller cylinder, the ("Pin") is twice as large. Try using Lines as the Top/Bottom pattern. Just a thought . . .

Perhaps the "force single threaded option" as you have suggested, isn't a bad idea. It appears that multi threading has introduced other anomalies into the slicing process, such as not knowing where Cura knows where it left off on the previous layer From a previous post in April by bagel-orb: Cura 2.5 definitely handles positioning differently from 2.4. Since Cura 2.5, CuraEngine is using multi-threading to speed up the process. The engine generates multiple layers at the same time. The major disadvantage of this is that the engine doesn't know where the previous layer ended in order to get the point on the inner walls closest to the previous print head location. Instead the engine starts each layer closest to the Layer Start Location. In addition, I've also experience some strange behavior with support placement in 2.5. Placing support where it is not needed. That's why I continue to use 2.4 for daily production work on my UM3 machines.

See my post from 4-22 on this same subject . . . https://ultimaker.com/en/community/45219-cura-25-final-manual-setting-of-z-location Try un-checking "Automatically drop models to the build plate" (Preferences -> General) I think it is indeed a bug.

The original files for the hinge and handle were available on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:767741 The hinge pivots needed to be modified to suit the narrower front bezel of the UM3 vs the UM2 for which it was originally designed. I'm happy to share my modified files if you have no means of editing the original STL files. Is there a means to do so via this site, or do I need to put them in the cloud via DropBox? BTW, I printed all of the files standing on edge, not laying flat. Had to sink them into the build plate as I recall (negative Z location). No brim was necessary. I used .090 LEXAN Poly carbonate sheet instead of Plexiglas. Tougher, more stable, clearer and much less prone to scratching.

IMHO you are never going to get the desired results with an FDM printer. Below is a sample of something similar, a printed plaque, done in an SLA process. The smallest letters are 2.8mm tall. The plaque itself is 90mm X 50mm X 4mm. Certainly better than FDM, but even with the superior SLA process the letter details are marginal. I'd suggest you are probably wasting your time with this effort . . .

As I recall Ultimaker never "officially" supported printing via USB. The USB port was there to allow for software / firmware updates and nothing more.

This "Dog Tag" was printed on my old UM2 Ext with .25 nozzle (Olsson Block) at .15 layer. Even with a Sans Serif font things get a bit blurry looking. The letters were .5mm deep. Acceptable for a pet identification tag, but not for a business card.:(

The hinge pins wrap around the front panel and are secured by a small screw into the outside panel of the printer.

Stephen, Did you ever solve this problem? If so, can you share the solution?

If you specify the Z seam in Cura 2.5 it will not automatically assign the same location to the start location. It always defaults the layer start location to the upper right quadrant of the build plate. Try it and I think you'll see what I mean. Then re-locate the layer start to the same as the Z and notice the difference in the blue lines of travel moves . . .

Putting the Layer Start and the Z seam at the same co-ordinates significantly reduces the travel moves in a hollow part, as can be seen by the blue lines shown in the Layer View. In a large print, this can reduce the overall print time. BTW, I find that 2.4 typically has shorter print times than 2.5 on exactly the same part with the same settings. While I really like some of the new features in 2.5, I'm using 2.4 for my daily work. One last thing. I'm using a 0.6mm nozzle (3DSolex). I have found that the thicker wall is more forgiving of the Z scar. Two outer walls = 1.2mm vs. 3 thinner .4mm outer walls = 1.2mm.

In the later versions of Cura under the Shell settings there is Outer Wall Wipe Distance. By default the setting is 0.2mm. It's purpose is to attempt to better hide the Z scar. In practice, I find in many cases it's better set to 0mm, as the default 0.2mm tends to make the scar wider. Also, you can explore the Experimental section of the settings menu and enable Coasting. Have you tried locating the Z scar at a specific location? This is also found under the Shell settings as Z seam Alignment. I find putting the Z scar in the corner of a part, or along a sharp radius, helps hide it quite well.

Thanks. Did you mean 0.05mm? 0.5mm would be huge! And I see what you mean about the brim. That would probably help with adhesion, but kind of defeats the purpose of the soluble supports if I have to cut it all off manually. Initial layer and brim settings are all default. I'll try this on my computer tomorrow at work and see if it makes a difference. Yes of course .05mm. My bad. Sorry By the look of it I'm not sure the part needs a brim for adhesion at all. Just use a single line count skirt on extruder 1 to make sure it is well primed. Does the computer at work have Cura 2.4 or 2.5? If you don't have 2.4 available, can you make the STL file available? I'll give it a try myself. Looks like an interesting part.

Make sure your Initial Layer Height is at least .5mm greater than your Layer Height. I think Brim should be the build extruder 1, not the support extruder 2 If you have a machine available with Cura 2.4 on it try that. I've experienced anomalies with the support implementation in 2.5.

I fashioned this door originally for my UM2 Ext. Modified the hinges for my UM3 Ext. Print head does not come in contact with the door in normal use. Putting the hinge pivots at the outer corner of the printer allows the door to swing open completely against the printer and out of the way. Hinges and handle are PLA, as is the control knob with a crank for improved ergonomics. Ultimaker Robot on a keychain to keep track of my USB drive.

I fashioned a similar door from Lexan. Print head does not touch the door in normal use Putting the hinge pivots at the outer corner of the printer allows the door to swing open completely against the printer and out of the way. Hinges and handle are PLA, as is the control knob with a crank for improved ergonomics. Ultimaker Robot on a keychain to keep track of my USB drive.

What printer are you preparing the job for? What platform are you on? (Windows, Mac?) What version of Cura are you using? It appears to be 2.5 . If so, have you tried 2.4? I have seen anomalies with 2.5, that I never experienced with 2.4. As a result, I don't use 2.5 for any production work.

Judging from the facets visible in both of your photos. I'd say the resolution of the STL file is far too low. It appears that you are modeling a stretch blown PET bottle? Working for a plastic bottle manufacture, practically all I print are models of bottles. I always print them standing upright with PVA support for the bottom push up detail. I've encountered some problems with supports using Cura 2.5 so still using Cura 2.4 Ultimaker3 Ext.