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XYZDesignPro

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Everything posted by XYZDesignPro

  1. So we received a jigsaw puzzle from my wife's twin sister to work on while self isolating. She did advise us that she thought there was a piece missing, and sure enough there was. With that as a challenge, I photographed the missing piece of the puzzle, brought it into SolidWorks and vectorized it using "Sketch Picture", extruded it to 0.080" (2mm) sent it to Cura and in turn sent to my UM3. My wife then painted it to perfection and "Voila" the lighthouse was restored. Now I'm just looking for the next project.
  2. Interesting re-purpose of a $5,000 3D printer. That said, the bread looks absolutely delicious. What kind of bread is it??
  3. I'm live on the map. Took about 3 days . . .
  4. The gear bearing parts in the photos above were printed at .2 layer, .35 nozzle. .35 line width, 200° print temp, 60° build plate. Pretty much Cura defaults for PLA. I always reduce the travel, jerk, acceleration and other associated settings by about half because I feel they are just set excessively high in Cura by default IMO. The vase is pretty much the same settings accept .6 nozzle and "Spiralize Outer Contour". It's about 7" high. Layer and build plate adhesion are excellent. UM3 Extended, Cura 4.2.1 See my review on Amazon for a review: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RKP01J3MCO1HB/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B07GP31WY6
  5. Has anyone else tried this filament? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GP31WY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It is easily the shiniest PLA filament I have experienced. Very smoothly wound and tangle free. The spool fits on the UM3 Extended perfectly. These are the copper. I have also tried the gold. It's a little yellow for my taste, but still very shiny.
  6. It appears you are using "Lines" for your top and bottom layer pattern. Have you tried "Concentric"? The head has fewer lifting and retractions. In your case the pattern will just go around like a race track. I find it both aesthetically pleasing and functional. Also be sure there is nothing between the glass build plate and the aluminum heated plate. Dirt or debris that might prevent proper leveling.
  7. Sorry, couldn't read that clearly. I can't say that i have anything more to add. What type of printer are you using? What version of Cura?
  8. The pattern at layer 4 appears to be infill. So your top and bottom settings are 3 layers then you are printing infill which appears to lines at maybe 20%? This would be quite normal.
  9. I just installed Cura 4.2.1 on a machine that has never had any version of Cura or SolidWorks, and the plugin is there. Did not try 4.3
  10. Have you reached out to the author? https://community.ultimaker.com/profile/345640-thopiekar/ Apparently it is broken in 4.4. I am using 4.2.1 and it works fine with SWX 2019 SP5.0. Have you tried that version of Cura?
  11. It is probably already installed. Did you click on the "Installed" link in the upper right corner?
  12. The first layer is almost always printed slower than the rest of the model by default. Try slowing down the speed of the infill and especially the jerk and travel settings. I find that many of the default travel and jerk setting in Cura result in rather violent head motions with my UM3 machines.
  13. I my experience CURA does not do a very good job at "printing one at a time" What printer are you using? You might want to refer to the links below: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/24945-object-distance-by-printing-one-at-time/
  14. My go to tough material is PETG. I have printed feet for patio furniture with it. Drag them around on concrete. But Nylon may be your best bet.
  15. It finally opened on my system. Very slowly as the 3mf file is over 150,000 KB. The part is larger than the build plate / volume of the UM3 Ext when it did finally open, so it cannot be sliced. Try posting the the native STL file and I'll give it another try. What printer do you have Cura set for?
  16. These were printed on my old UM2, but again with a 0.25 nozzle. (Olsson Block). What type of printer are you using?
  17. Hello Thomas. Just installed Version 0.6.0 upgrade. Works just fine with Cura 4.1.0 and SolidWorks 2019 SP3.0. Anything important in this upgrade we should be aware of?
  18. Yes, all of the examples are printed in PLA. All of the lettering you see in the photos was printed on top of the substrate. I have never tried to print with the letters embedded in the substrate. That would be considerably more difficult because the two nozzles would have to be really well calibrated to each other. The TUCKER dog tag is a solid black PLA tag printed with a 0.4 nozzle, and the letters and border around the edge are Ultimaker Silver printed with the 3DSolex 0.25 nozzle. I printed these parts rather slow 20mm/s. Also, depending on the size of the text, the usefulness of the 0.25 nozzle can't be over emphasized.
  19. Here's some of photos: Hope this helps .. . .
  20. I have printed text as small as 9 points using a 0.25mm nozzle (3DSolex) on my UM3 machines. I have only done so when placing the letters on the substrate, not within the substrate. Try a 0.15 layer and choose a sans serif font. My best results have been with Arial Rounded because the end of the strokes are round not squared off. I have printed personalize dog tags for our family dog as well as some small plaques in this matter. I'll post some pictures later today.
  21. I don't think I'm going to be much help here. Sounds like you may need to adjust the distance of the heated build plate from the bottom to the aluminum plate below it by adjusting all three of the leveling screws. I think it's 14mm? Then repeat the manual leveling process. Perhaps somebody with more knowledge than me will jump in here??
  22. Cura gives you both weight and length of the material to be used. Just mouse over the little "i" icon in the lower right of your screen.
  23. I have never used anything other than the .4BB core for PVA support. Used it successfully with both with PLA and PETG. with the .6AA 3DSolex core.
  24. Yes, mine did come with a small wrench, but not very robust. Suggest you use an adjustable wrench to hold the block and your Olsson Block socket torque wrench for the nozzle. (you did print one of those didn't you?) You might not ever change the nozzle from the .6 since you will still have you original .4 print core. So just swap out the entire print core. I use .53 line width (as recommended = .875 X .6). No temp adjustment necessary with PLA. Still use the .4 BB core for support . Works fine.
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