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Everything posted by XYZDesignPro

  1. Since installing 3.3.1 I've noticed a significant increase in the Z scar width as compared to 3.2.1. The model is printed with no infill (hollow) as I have always done. It's an empty bottle. The photos show the Z scar. In 3.2.1 it was nice and straight, now in 3.3.1 t zig zags considerably, and really looks ugly on the outside of the model. These screen shots of of the same model with the exact same settings. Thoughts?
  2. So what do you think the chances are that filament vendors like ColorFabb, Taulman etc. might begin producing spools of filament with Ultimaker NFC chips?
  3. Never had to deal with this myself, but perhaps a hair dryer, or a heat gun used to shrink shrink tubing sleeves?
  4. Try the List Site: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list
  5. Has anybody seen this email as from MatterHackers here in the U.S.? https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/ultimaker-s5/sk/MH6DVDNK?utm_source=MatterHackers+Newsletter&utm_campaign=3863f7f1ca-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2017_01_30&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_dccd3cdce8-3863f7f1ca-127089789 Ultimaker S5 . . .
  6. I have been using (trying out) 3.3 beta with success. But as I have said in my previous posts, I never put any beta versions on my workstation, but rather on my laptop, where it really doesn't matter. I especially like working with the Support Blocker, but when combined with the Adaptive Layers functionality, it can be a bit of an adventure. It is after all beta software . . . I'm sure the Ultimaker team is doing the best they can to give us a product that they are proud of and we can all enjoy and be productive with.
  7. Sure. No reason why not. It's the same material, same diameter. Your UM2 just doesn't have an NFC reader for the chip to talk to. Take it off and throw it away if you have no need for it.
  8. Great explanation gr5. From Solidworks chose Save As and select STL file format. Chose the default Fine setting. Save the file to an SD card if you can, or perhaps just email it to yourself at an address that you have access to at home.. At your home, bring the STL file into Cura to save out as Gcode on the SD card. Put the SD card into your printer to read and process. You might be able to use the 32 bit version of Cura 2.3.1 32 bit, dated Nov.8 2016, which can be found on the page gr5 linked to in the above post: gr5, I'm not familiar with this printer at all. You certainly know your way around reprap printers better than most. Can you offer Senior some specific instructions on how to set up the printer in Cura?
  9. I don't think your work in Fusion 360 is necessarily at fault, but rather the way Fusion 360 is handling the STL output / export. If you like you can ZIP and email me your STEP file and I'll see how it comes into SolidWorks. frank@xyzpros.com
  10. The obj file comes into SW as a surface. SolidWorks was unable to resolve the faulty faces (351) or the Gaps, (72 total in 8 locations). Hate to say it, but I'm afraid that Fusion 360 is not doing a very good job of creating the STL or OBJ file for Cura, or probably any slicer for that matter, to use. Pretty much a mess: Since you're on the Ultimaker Forum, I have to ask, have you considered an Ultimaker 3 for your dual extrusion up grade path?
  11. After renaming this file to proto.step it imports into SW empty, with no mass. Apparently just changing the file extension doesn't fool the Forum server! The STL file definitely has some problems: As you can see . . . I do not know anything about Fusion 360, so can't help you there.
  12. It appears that in some areas of the part your wall thickness may be too thin to print. By default Cura uses a 0.4 Nozzle. As you can see there are missing walls, outlined in blue, where the part is not going to print. I flipped the part over for easier viewing. I believe these walls would have to be at least 0.8mm thick to print with the default wall thickness settings in Cura. This is your STL file in Cura using the default settings for 0.015 Layer. In the view on the left I have turned off the Show Helpers and Show Travels, so that you can see the part more clearly. Not sure this is going to help much . . . About the bed adhesion, I do not know anything about your machine. What material are you trying to print with? What is the bed temp?
  13. I assume you meant Cura 3.2.1 not 3.4.1? If it doesn't violate any NDA you have in place, can you post a STEP or IGES file of the part, so we can bring it into SW as a solid?
  14. What printer are you using? What version of Cura? Can you post the STL file and perhaps the part STEP file. I can bring the STEP file into SolidWorks. I'll be happy to take a look at it. BTW, the STL file is a representation of the curved surfaces of your part made up of triangles.
  15. I find the WedgeBot an indispensable tool when working with feeder problems. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 Here's a video on it's use.
  16. Welcome to the Forum Senior. Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Hopefully you'll obtain the parts for the repair soon and join the world of discovery that owning a 3D printer can bring. I'm a Solidworks user for some 20+ years now. Started with SolidWorks 97+. You'll just need to save the part file out as an STL to bring it into Cura for slicing into GCode.
  17. Try using the Wedgebot tool to ease the filament into the feeder. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 Very handy tool
  18. You need to fast forward to Video 4 of 12 to get to the active leveling noise that Erin is referring to. Erin is with with Fbrc8, the U.S. assembler and distributor for Ultimaker. She knows what she's talkn' about. I think if you reach under the build plate during the time that your noise is most prevalent and just lightly touch the Z screw, you'll feel it. Could be the blue painters tape is upsetting the calibration. If you are printing with PLA, you probably don't need it as long as your bed is at 60° Try printing the same part with a clean glass. I use 91% isopropyl alcohol, with a paper towel, but the more common 70% will certainly due. Here's a really good read by Daid on the whole self leveling concept. Hope this helps.
  19. Wedgebot to the rescue. Great advice. Still a good idea to cut the filament at an angle . . .
  20. I think the clicking noise you are hearing is the bed continuously self leveling. You may hear that clicking sound for as much as the first 10mm of the print. Does that sound about right Erin?
  21. Interesting. I had to do exactly the same thing. That's why I never install the Beta versions on my work station, but rather on my laptop. I then exported my most used profiles from the Cura 3.2.1 installation on the work station to the laptop Beta to experiment. Rather clumsy, but got the job done. Like you, I was anxious to try the Support Blocker functionality. It's a work in progress, but definitely a step in the right direction when Support Placement is set to Everywhere. New font in the right hand Menu pane is an improvement as well.
  22. As it turns out the only export options from Cura are STL OBJ and GCODE. None of these are going to be very usable or useful when brought back into a 3D application. I've had some success bringing an STL file into SolidWorks, but the result is often a just surface file not a solid, pretty messy and not very editable. Perhaps some of the other contributors here will have something for you. Perhaps Blender? I'm not really familiar with Blender's capabilities.
  23. To start the print at at a place other than the actual bottom of the part, just select the model, then select the Move tool in the upper left of the screen. Grab the blue arrow and drag the model down into the build plate.
  24. Your model is already in 4 parts on Thingiverse. Seems you really making this project a "project" . . . In any case, I can appreciate where 25% support density would make the problem worse, but at 50% I suspect that even though you do have a stranded support segment at layer 343 the next layer or two above that will probably bridge the gap because, unlike 25%, the support structure is so much closer together. Everything above that should be fine. Try starting the print a layer 300 or so, and you won't have to waste filament and time? Also, was there some reason why you reverted back to 60° support overhang?
  25. Changed nothing from the default settings I outlined above except for layer height 0.15 to 0.06. Here's what I get at Layer 346. Everything is pretty much attached to something. The default support settings are Everywhere, 45°, Triangles at 50%. Buils time is 35h 4 minutes. Hope you have a generous supply of PVA. Hope this helps . . .
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