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  1. And I switched active levelling back on 🙂
  2. Hi, Now that was what I was looking for! Thanks for pointing it out! 🙂 Cheers, Richard
  3. Hi Johnse, Thank you for the answer, I assumed a similar thing that it does some Z-axis adjustment, but what specifically wonders me how it would deal with the 3 point measurement. On my UM3 you do the manual levelling mid point, right front, left front and the dual nozzle midpoint by adjusting the screws underneath. This should put the build plate level. Assuming I messed this up and right forward is way too low. How would my UM3 auto-levelling deal with that? It cannot adjust the right forward screw to make the plate level, so the only thing it can do is figure out mid point is 0, right forward is too low and left forward is at 0 too. Would it then constantly adjust the Z-axis during printing while the printhead moves from right forward towards left behind? It would have to be otherwise taking all those measurements doesn't make sense. If it only adjusts the initial layer height, taking a measurement mid-point would have been sufficient. Which is why I'm thinking the auto-levelling sequence is just a double check if you have levelled the bed not completely tilted and bails out of the print if you have and otherwise starts because it's 'within acceptable bounds'. Anyway, maybe one of the UM people can give some insight is what it does or try to figure out during that process. Cheers, Richard
  4. I only occasionally read through posts on the board here and saw a big discussion on auto-levelling which made my curious on what auto-levelling actually does. Does auto-levelling actually adjust any setting/layer height or print condition or is it only a safety check to see if the build plate isn't complete mounted sideways? Just curious to know the inner workings,..
  5. Hi, I'm wondering if other people have some experience with this. I have an UM3 extended and print 99.9% of my things sliced by Cura (4.2.1 at the moment) I do some CAD drawing and pretty much always, my printed parts never fit. Despite my putting some margins in the drawings, I usually end up doing print-try-adjust-drawing and start all over again. Since for me this is all hobby and I have by no means any knowledge or experience how you should take fitting tolerences into account, I figured it is the best I can do. But recently it just annoyed the heck out of me, because I had to adjust and reprint so many times, that it just didn't make sense anymore. So I had look on the forum on dimensional accuracy and calibration and I printed the 20x20x10 calibration cube. Now reading the posts here, I only seem to find people that have a consistent X and Y calibration error. I have a different problem: my Y size is off, my Y size is pretty much spot on. So my test cubes (just a few of them but they seem pretty consistent): 1 - X(20.01) Y(20.18) 2 - X(20.00) Y(20.21) 3 - X (19.94) Y (20.06) - I played with horizontal expansion on this one, however that also impacts my X size too and decreases that too much. So how do you calibrate only the Y? I need X horizontal expansion and a separate Y horizontal expansion,.. Or is there another trick? I also did a print at the advice low 30mm/sec print speed, I measure in the middle, not the elephant foot first layer. It's a PLA print, this filament might be more susceptible to shrinkage, as the bottom and top layers seem to come out a bit, but with the current infill pattern and print form (equally sized cube), such shrinkage should be the same in both directions. One thing which might be the cause: I had this with my previous UM3 also: one of the slider bearings in the head is probably worn out. Now with my previous, I could really hear the head click when I would change direction. If I feel the head of my UM3 ext now, it does have a very very little bit of play. Meaning I can move the tip of my nozzle sightly from forward to backwards make the whole head move ever so slightly on the axle. I have ordered a new set of bearings, so when they are mounted next week, it should exclude that as a cause. Any ideas or pointers are welcome. Cheers, Richard
  6. I’m trying now to increase the bottom top layer width to 0.45 from 0.35. Lets see if that makes a difference.
  7. Hi, I'm looking for some pointers as what to check/adjust to get this issue resolved on my prints. These prints are done in PLA, but aren't material specific. Cura versions: this happens with 3.5.0 and the previous 3.4.1. I don't think it's Cura version specific, I've had this issue for a while. This is printed at the default 'fine' setting of 0.1mm and a modified fine setting where initial layer height was decreased and print speed reduced to 35mm/s When I print, the bottom/100% infill layers seem to be dimensionally smaller than the layers higher up which are printed with infill. I even aborted a print, as you can see in the pictures where it shows the dimensional wideness changes at the infill printed layers. Any thoughts or ideas of things I could change to fix this issue? Picture 1 through 4 some examples where the first layers are smaller than the subsequent ones. Picture 5 through 7 you can see it starts when printing infills. Upload of pictures will be after posting as I need to do that from my phone. Cheers, Richard
  8. Alright, so I rebooted the Ext, rebooted the wifi, just went to maintenance and ran the setup from there and it worked. Very puzzled but pleased it is now working.
  9. Hi, I'm looking to getting a few pointers here. I've had a UM3 for over a year now and just unpacked a brand new UM3 Ext. It's now standing where the UM3 stood. The problem I'm facing is that I cannot get the Ext to connect to my wireless. When attempting to connect (after the wizard of wife network and password filled in) it times out after a number of minutes. I had no issues with connecting my UM3. Anything I can try or check? I just rolled out a cable and upgraded to the latest stable firmware on the Ext. The UM3 was already on it. Hits and tips welcome. Regards, Richard
  10. Alright, I've upgrade to the latest firmware. So far so good as I didn't have to walk down to authorize Cura. I did start a job, so I'll have to wait until it finishes before I can see the settings, but I recon it's ok. Thanks!! let's hope 3.6 behaves as it should.
  11. Yes there is actually. You assume that any new firmware is an improvement of the old. I actually downgraded a couple of months ago to this firmware. I had it for months, it worked flawlessly. Then it successor promissed some nice feature. Ok it was kinda nice to be able to switch the light off. (At night my office always looks like there is some alien spaceship landing going on) but the new firmware brought nothing but shitty wifi reception, every time I had to walk downstairs and the USB support was crap too. Unplugging and reinserting did not refresh the filelist on it anymore. So basically the only way to print was: switch the printer off and back on so it would read the USB. And that I think is not acceptable. But back to the problem: if there is no clear cause, there is no guarantee the new firmware solves it or would not experience the same issue in the future,..
  12. Hi, I've just experienced one of the weird things. Last time I changed filament, I thought I was too quick and just fat fingered into the wrong type. Occasionally I twist and press, not just press. So I put on an ABS spool but hit PLA,. I thought. So after it loaded, I thought, I'll reload it. Because otherwise Cura keeps questioning me. Then it hit me: I've lost ABS, actually the only types left are PLA, CPE and Nylon,.. Also change type under material 1 does not show all types anymore. Only the above 3. I restarted the printer (power off) but to no succes. It is only those 3. I have not updated the firmware (unless Cura 2.6 just did that automatically and I didn't notice. I did just upgrade Cura) See pictures. It's on material 1 and the firmware should be: (cannot verify as I am printing now) Any ideas? Regards, Richard
  13. Wenn es nur um die Eckenhaftung geht sehe ich da kein Problem. Einfach den Klebestift nehmen, das läßt sich jederzeit wieder gut entfernen. Not exactly, the dump for extruder 1 is better than the one for extruder 2. Have a close look, they are not exactly the same. Extruder 1: move to 2mm, start extruding, move up slowly then move away a centrimeter and lower. Extruder 2: move to 2mm, start extruding, move up (too slowly), move away and stop extruding. Then move back to dump location, dip lower and up and move away. The moving up too slowly and the return and dip cause the pile to stick to the extruder 9 out of 10 times. Especially with PVA that sequence is a nightmare. I killed half a dozen of jobs because the pile gets pulled into the first layer.
  14. I have seen the same problem. Like you: nothing is done with the 2nd extruder. All things buildplate adhesion supports model etc. Only extruder 1, yet somehow Cura thinks the purge is necessary. I have even had prints where the 2nd extruder gets heated up to 100 degrees standby temp for no usuage. Simplify3D had a tendency to do the same untill I edited the startup script and removed the purge. I guess you could do the same. A bit of googling should get you the change extruder and purge commands. Remove them from the gcode and it should be fine. Still, I agree with you: why would it do it in the first place.
  15. Haven't tested this 100% but if you list the files to print, remove the USB and reinsert it. It does seem to refresh the file list. That would get you beyond having to reboot the printer. Need to see if listting the contents still works after you fininshed a print (from the USB). If it doesnt, then you are just sh*t out of luck :-(
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