Julian28010

I'm "only" using it for hobbies. I really enjoy robotics (Printing InMoov right now). In the next month, I'm going to buy an Ultimaker 3 and may use 3D printing professionally.

Ok, thank you really much!

Hey! I want to use the CPE material by Ultimaker in the near future. I've just been printing with PLA since I got an Ultimaker 3D printer. My only question is if an enclosure or front door would be required?

Hey Guys, I really need your help. I just upgraded my printer with the Ultimaker Extrusion Upgrade Kit and since then the layers where I got 100% infill look really weird. Do some of you may know, what is causing this? Edit: I've tried lowering the speed, which didn't work.

Yeah, that could be a reason! Any idea, what I can do to test it? Or fix it?

Yeah, that could be a reason! Any idea, what I can do to test it?

I did several testings yesterday and today and after them I can't imagine that there is something wrong with the retractions. (I heated the Extruder up to 200° Celsius and extruded 10CM with the UltiController and the same happened again, so I dont think it has something to do with retractions and too much Filament coming through) I also tested my Teflon coupler and it don't seems to be damaged at all. Any other suggestions?

Hello, I have something weird going on with my hotend. I tried printing a part yesterday and noticed, that the filament stopped extruding. I thought that there was a problem with the extruder but when as I took the Bowden Tube out of the hotend I saw a big chunk of PLA at the end of the tube that there was no possibility for it to go into the Teflon coupler (Filament softened in upper head) . As I took the whole hotend apart to clean it I saw the PLA stuck in the peek insulator. I cleaned it and put it back together and the print worked for 10 minutes and then the whole problem appeared again... Any suggestions? With best regards, Julian

Could someone give me the Information what to change exactly? I got the same problem on my Ultimaker Original Plus (except that my PCB is charred and I can't see any PCB failure). Just for information, the UMO+ uses the same electronics as the UM2.