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ScarletImpaler

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  1. There is probably something simple I'm missing, but I've already tried Googling, but that hasn't given me much. I've used the stock .25 nozzle a few times before, but they always have been relatively small and quick prints, no more than a few hours, and .2 layer height. Now, I'm printing a pretty intricate and delicate model that needs a .25 nozzle and to print at .1 layer height, and even with a UM2, I feel like I need to print extremely slow. Every print attempt jammed at a random point. The kind "jam" where its not really jamming, and the edge of the filament, when pulled out, is thicker and kind of flat. I read that going too slow with a small nozzle can cause this problem, but it jammed at my last attempt at 45mm/s. I previously tried 15mm/s and 30mm/s. The print going at 45mm/s got the furthest along. I'm just too afraid to go any faster. The model is a female character figure with a thin skirt that flares out that needs lots of support for (I did everything I can to thicken the skirt area in Blender). Is there something I'm missing, or am I thinking too hard into this and just should increase the speed? Thanks!
  2. Printing the HTPLA at standard PLA temps at those speeds causes jams with it. It was suggested to me try a high temp like 260. Which, like PETG, works only in my UM2+E. Seems like only PLA works in my UM3. I tried swapping print cores, too, and that didn't work either. Had the bowden tension mid way, all the way down and all the way up, it was one of the first things I tried.
  3. Yes, and it printed standard PLA just fine. I'm in the process of trying out different print cores.
  4. Great. Now its jamming on Protopasta HTPLA v3. It lays down the first layer or so, then jams. 260 hotend, 70 bed, 30mm speed. Print core isn't even a few months old. Only PLA and PETG through it.
  5. Hello, I've been having under extrusion and jamming issues when using eSun black PETG on my UM3, and I can't figure it out. I've been using the same exact filament and settings on my UM2 and the prints have been coming out perfectly on that. The jams haven't been serious jams, and easily cleaned out. I cleaned out the bowden motor and gears, which helped a bit, screwed the lever all the way down, which also helped a bit, but the underextrustion and/or general quality is still extremely poor. Increasing temp more didn't seem to help. Settings: 240 hot end 60mm/s 80 bed Fan off 4.5mm retraction In the attached pic, the left model was printed out on my UM2 and the right model out of my UM3. In the second pic, top is UM2 and bottom is UM3. Even before the big issues, the UM3 was printing at significantly less quality than the UM2.
  6. Alright so, I went and cleaned out the bowden, that was a much simpler fix, and why that only effected the first bit. But what really worked was reducing the temps. Even worked on my other, lesser printers. Got a few clean first layers with white PLA, thanks!
  7. And I do that maintenance, like I said in my posts. Cleaning properly, and its still giving me this problem. Your comments that are ignoring my input are unhelpful.
  8. But now I wonder, if heat is a problem, and getting close to burning, then why aren't burnt marks on any other place than the first layer(s). But I'll try to reduce first layer heat and see what happens. And I do cold and hot pulls to clean inside, and move cleaning filament around the nozzle when heated to remove anything from there.
  9. Yes, I'm cleaning the nozzles, inside and out, and yes I make sure the extruded plastic becomes the new color when I do filament changes. I shouldn't have to buy different print core for different color groups, its a $3000+ machine, shouldn't be having this problem to begin with.
  10. Hello, Been having trouble with my UM3 producing nasty first layers, with either some material left from previous filament mixed in, or blackened spots and streaks.Pictures attached. I've been using just standard PLA, all ColorFabb. Nozzle and glass bed is completely clean, and the rest of the print comes out perfect. I've tried googling the problem, but nothing was coming up. What can be causing this? And how do I fix this? Thank you.
  11. Just to be sure, I cleaned out the print core again and did a standard PLA and PVA print with no problem. Popped HTPLA back in, and immediately got the problems as before.
  12. Hello, I'm getting this problem where Proto-pasta HTPLA doesn't want to extrude, and its odd. -I first had a roll of white HTPLA that worked perfectly, even with dual extrusion, used the entire spool, no problem (sans prints coming out hairy and with excess filament on the outside of the print). -Then I tried their a roll of their new V3 HTPLA in black, and it stopped extruding after the first few layers (30-60 minutes in). After a few failed prints, I decided to stop. No idea the cause. -Went back to their older HTPLA (V2, I guess), this time in grey. Had a nice 10+ hour print come out perfectly, but then I started to get issues similar to the V3 black I was trying. However, I found that the Bowden gear was digging too much into the filament, causing it to stop extruding. -Turned the tension down all the way (or all the way up on the meter on the Bowden box), still getting this grinding issue. I want to try to contact PP about this, but I had tried to contact them about the excess filament issue and they haven't gotten back to me about it. Suggestions? It seems I can't rely on PP for help, and this is the only temp-resistance material that works with PVA (I do my printing in my apartment, so ABS is out of the question). Thank you!
  13. Hello, I just got this error on my Ultimaker 3 after putting the BB PrintCore back in and trying to reload with PVA. "Material 2: Generic PVA Generic is not compatible with the ?? ?.? PrintCore 2" Restarting it didn't help, and google isn't helping either.
  14. I'm trying to print with Taulman Bridge Nylon. With my last print, I had the bed turned off/set to 0 degrees in Cura 2.5, with Elmer's Spray Glue, and I was getting the best bed adhesion after 8 failed prints. But after a few hours into it, I found that the bed was heating up randomly, causing the the bed adhesion to fail and the print lifting off. When I hit "Abort Print," the display said the bed temp was a 60 degrees! How did this happen? And how do I prevent this? Side note, if it helps, the bed was never at actual 0, UM3 was reading it as about 35 degrees, but it was creating great adhesion as is. And if it wasn't for the heat jumping up, I think it would have finished the print just fine, so thats not necessarily a "problem."
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