Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

17 Good

1 Follower

Personal Information

  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I have converted two of my UM2s to 1.75mm so I have some spare parts left over. I'm located in Sweden but I can ship basically anywhere. Outside of EU might make things complicated with customs and such though but not impossible. I have the following: *Two bowden tubes including locks and clips. One has been used about 500 hours and the other about 1500 hours. *Two original blocks. One has been used about 250 hours and the other is brand new. The used one is a bit dirty. *Two Olsson blocks. To the best of my knowledge these are genuine Ultimaker blocks but since they were included with second hand machines I can't guarantee that. They sure look well made and I have printed a whole bunch of hours on them flawlessly. One has been used about 250 hours and one about 1500 hours, only pla or abs. They are quite dirty. *Eight nozzles. Three unknown and five 3DSolex. Usage is everything from 0 to a couple of hundred ours each, mostly pla and on rare occasions abs, no other materials. Most of them are quite dirty as well. The 3DSolex ones are 2x0.25mm, 2x0.4mm, 1x0,8mm and the unknown ones I'm not sure of. *Three couplings. Two of them are Ultimaker and one is 3DSolex. One Ultimaker is basically worn out, one is brand new and the 3DSolex one has been used only with I2K spacer, so that one is basically brand new as well. *Some plastic parts for the head. Two complete and one extra middle part. Not sure about what would be a reasonable price for any of this but if anyone cares to make me an offer for one or more things. Cheers
  2. I have one unused (I previously wrote unopened which on reflection wasn't true) roll of black Ultimaker Fex PLA that is never going to see use. Not sure if they stopped making the stuff because it was terrible or something else. Any takers? Shipping is going to be expensive from Sweden though, probably along the lines of €28 to Europe so I'm thinking a low price tag just to make it worth my trouble to send it. Note that the original bag had been punctured so I replaced it. Might need a bit of drying out.
  3. Martin Bondeus actually lives about one and a half hours drive from me. :-) He makes great stuff, but slightly overpriced I feel personally. I'm sure his products would have saved me a bit of headache, but when I have had problems with grinding it has seldom been directly because of the grip from the drive gear but other factors. I'm not sure how many of those situations would have been too much even for the dual system to handle. Anyway. I'm happy with my current solution. It seems to be working very well. But since I only have UM2s and no plans of buying a 2+ it won't, like you pointed out, work. I added my offer as an afterthought if anyone happened to have a 2+ feeder left over (possibly half broken or something) but didn't feel like giving a 1.75 mod a go I'd be willing to try for the greater good. Personally I think going to 1.75 has been great. I have had so much trouble with too tightly wound spools and different problems with 2.85mm. The 1.75 has so far been a breeze. But as I've only done about 200 hours of printing since the conversion I shall perhaps reserve judgement on the long term reliability of the mod for another couple of months. Right now I'm trying to put and end to all my left over 2.85mm filament so that I can convert a second machine. Anyway. We seem to have strayed somewhat off the topic of this thread. I wish I could of more assistance when it comes to the UM3 but unfortunately I have not even seen one. While I can speak with at least some experience about the feeder side of the arrangement the updated head and print cores is a closed book to me. Cheers
  4. Yep. The UM2 is kind of a mediocre printer with incredible potential. It doesn't shine until it has the Olsson block, a geared feeder and a new fan shroud. But boy does it shine.
  5. I knew that. Deep down. There had to be a reason I prefer UM2. :-) I don't have a 2+ feeder to hand or I could have had a look at it. I imagine that the tension with 1.75mm could be much too low. It's hard to see on the photos but one problem with the original parts on the UM2 with 1.75 is that there is no groove to keep the filament in place. So it tends to jump off. This can be rectified with a tighter throat but with the 2+ feeder the options for modifications might be quite slim. Is there any chance that the larger gear could be removed and implemented into a completely new feeder design? Possibly a gearbox housing with a iRoberti feeder on top. On my UM2 the power from the motor works just fine, though I use a gearbox for 2.85mm, but I don't think there is any harm in having one depending on how much it lowers the max speed. A friend of mine has an Anet A8 that is bowden converted and he uses a iRoberti feeder because he really likes the design. But his motor couldn't cope without gearing so we fitted a Meduza gearbox and that works a treat. The difference a 0.9 quality motor does over a 1.8 chinese no name I guess. I can't find any designs at all that modify the 2+ feeder for 1.75 except one using bondtech that Neotko has put together. On the off chance that someone, preferably in Europe, has a spare 2+ feeder they'd be willing to donate I'd be happy to pay for postage and donate the time to see if I can make a reasonable 1.75 conversion. Though I wouldn't be able to properly try it out since I don't have a 2+ motor of course, that is a bit of a drawback. If there's any interest in it. I don't think I'd be using it myself as I'm happy enough with my current solution. Cheers
  6. Literally ten seconds before I got a notification about your reply I finished publishing the modified feeder I use on my converted UM2. I'm guessing one would prefer to use the original feeder as that design is quite nice or so I've heard. But the way I solved it (nothing genius or new about it really) might give you a brainwave. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternate-iroberti-feeder-body-for-1-75mm-filament
  7. I will start thinking about it quite seriously then. :-) The print head actually sticks out through the front? Weird design. Like I said, I have never even seen an UM3 in real life so what do I know. Would love to play around with one for an afternoon though and get a feel for it. I guess my three upgraded UM2's is somewhat of a statement of my liking for the machine. I was actually called a "brand boy" by a Prusa MK2 owner the other week, but he meant it well. Still, the UM3 is a bit rich for my taste. Perhaps sometime in the future when they start to show up used. :-)
  8. I don't have much to add to this. But a few tidbits. I can attest that 1.75 works beautifully on UM2 if you do it right. I'm thinking of making a small writeup about my conversion at a later date. The UM3 is very different with the print cores and such. I'm not sure at all it would work but since I have never seen an UM3 in real life I should probably just shut up. I have bought doors for all my three UM2s from a german eBay store called shopfablab. Excellent doors, though he doesn't list UM3X as an option. I bought my 2X from him though by sending a message and asking if he could just cut one that was identical but 10cm taller and that worked superb. He has since added it as an option to the listing, presumably because I was able to report that it fitted. So perhaps he can do the same with 3X. Other than that I'm not sure I have much to add. Presumably you have already decided that you must have dual, otherwise an UM2 or 2+ is an excellent choice and one that can be cheaply (say $100) converted to 1.75. Cheers
  9. I see. My newest one is probably a later batch then. I was hoping I had just missed something. My other two are fairly quiet. My very first one was very loud but I didn't notice until I got my second one and realised how quiet it should be. I think the second one was pretty early because it had the very low light encased led strips. Anyway, I ordered a new fan for the loud printer and they are all just fine. Would have been even more quiet with it off though. I might get one of those switches and mount on the side I guess. It won't fit on the top because I use Alexander Leisentritts modified print head. It's not a really big deal, just very nice that the fan shuts off when not in use. Cheers
  10. HI, I'm switching block on my newest UM2 today. Had the chance to take a photo that really highlights the difference the I2K spacer makes, for those that still wonders. The spacer on the left is from 3DSolex. It has printed about 900 hours or so with I2K and spring replacement. The spacer on the right is an original Ultimaker one from a completely unmodified UM2. It has printed 221 hours. That spacer may be expensive but boy does it work.
  11. Hi, I bought myself a third UM2 yesterday. What can I say, with a couple of upgrades to make it a sort of 2+ I simply love these machines. This particular one was bought several years ago but the guy wasn't much interested in 3D printing, just 3D prints. He never got it working properly. So it has run 221 hours. Got eight spools of plastic into the deal as well. Paid €1100 so I'm happy. Though regretfully I suspect that the seller isn't as he originally wanted €1500 and he was a really nice guy. Buyers market though, there was two nearly identical for sale about 1,5 drive from each other and the other guy told me later that he would have taken €800 if i had offered it. Anyway. This one has a weird feature compared to my other two. The main fan only activates when the extruder hits 50 degrees C. I know about this feature from Marlin of course, I just thought the UM2 wasn't able to use it. Was this an experimental feature somewhere along the line or is it a hidden feature you have to activate in the firmware or something? I would love to have this on my other two machines as well. Cheers
  12. Well. Alright. Materials. We're into a whole new world of hurt here. There are about 30 different plastics available and all have their uses. My friend who works with plastic injection laughs at this. They have about 30 differents types of ABS with even more specialised properties, for example one that is only used when making parts for electrical appliances with an operating voltage of 5000 or more. But more importantly in your case, all have their disadvantages and limitations. I think you should spend some time reading up on materials to figure out what what work for you. To take a few examples based on what you have written so far. The question of PLA vs ABS when it comes to hardness is not as easy as ABS is harder. To begin with hardness isn't always what you want and there are several kinds of forces that relate to it. I'm sure they have very nice names but it comes down to striking, bending, elongating and compressing. What does have more of a bearing on you is environmental factors. PLA has a much lower glass transition temperature, about 50 degrees celsius. It will basically start to deform in a hot car during summer here in Sweden. ABS is better at about 70-90-ish. PLA also deteriorates since it is made from starch. Reports say that plants pots for use in the garden made from PLA will hold up for a season or so before needing replacement. ABS however is harder to print. Depending on humidity you might even find that some plastics are hard to print with even though they would work fine for finished products. This is just a few examples. But in this case I think that material has a much larger bearing than for most of us, so you should probably spend some time finding out what might work and not. One last thought that has struck me. Contact Ultimaker directly. And Prusa for that matter. I'm not sure they can or want to do anything for you. But it seems to me like child prosthetics in the developing world is exactly the kind of project that Ultimaker shows off about (in a good way). So who knows. @SandervG might be able to offer us a comment on this.
  13. I don't know about the Creality but the Prusa isn't a bad machine in any respect. 3D printers in general are a bit of struggle. When they work fine they really work fine. But when they start to act up they can be frustratingly difficult to get back on track. And they require a fair bit of know how to maintain. That said, it's incredibly hard to beat the UM2 for reliability. And I think I can say without a shadow of a doubt that the Ultimaker is by far the easiest of the three to get up and running. Cura doesn't produce the quickest or most optimised prints but it produces fantastic results out of the box. When I just want to print and need good results quickly for a one off item I still fire up Cura and change a few settings to my liking. Even though I mainly use Simplify3D now to get more power to optimise print speed for production runs. There's also a few weird holes to fall in for the unweary traveller. It would be easy to say that the Prusa is more reliable because it has builtin auto bed leveling. Yeah, sure. But since the Ultimaker takes 30 seconds to re-level in the fly and can easily go 200 prints hours without needing an adjustment that is a somewhat moot point. I'm sure the Prusa actually benefits from the bed leveling, because the carriage design is a bit prone to skew the bed and is a real pain to adjust (at least the old design and many clones suffer from this). My friend, who has a i3 clone, installed a level probe over christmas for this very reason. I have no knowledge of the community around Prusa though I'd venture that it is also very good, as is the Ultimaker community. Though I think that the fact that there are so many i3 clones out there might make it harder to find accurate information about the genuine ones. There are very few Ultimaker 2 clones in circulation, so when you find a thread about it you pretty much know it will apply to your machine as well. But I understand your situation. Why should I buy a machine for well over €2000 when I can get this other machine with great reviews for €1000. I think the best summary I can make is that I have a very, very hard time thinking that you can go wrong with the Ultimaker 2+ or a 2 with improved feeder, I don't think you need the Olsson block though it is very nice to have. I can however see a risk that you can go wrong with a Prusa MK2S (which seems like the best model to get). One should also realise that different printers have different shortcomings. In a perfect world I would recommend anyone who has a 3D printer to get a second and possibly of a different kind that compliments it. Myself I have two UM2s because for me the machine have very few shortcomings and a second one compliments the first one beautifully. It is quite easy to damage something that could be easily fixed if you only had a 3d printer to do it. Not that you should expect a quality machine like the UM2 to break down any time soon of course. My point is that if funds were not an issue I would either buy a UM2 and a MK2S. Or i would buy two UM2s. Or I would buy a MK2S and try it out and, if it works well, I would buy a second one or an UM2 if the MK2S did not work as well and then continue using the MK2S as a secondary machine. Indeed I have had some thoughts about buying a MK2S as a third printer just to get a machine that can do multi material and keep my two UM2s as my primary workhorses. But if I had to pick one single option I would go with an UM2. One last thing. I do not know what kind of material you are thinking about using. There might be a lot in this rather long post that changes if your primary requirement is to print something special. Hope this was at least somewhat comprehensible. Cheers
  14. A small update to this. I immediately restarted the print (though I redid the gcode to print three instead of four copies of the part). Took eight hours with no trouble. Started a new print for two more copies of the same part, also perfect. I'm currently two hours into my next print and still no more sight of this issue. Very disturbing.
  15. Thanks. Unfortunately I'm almost certain that I'm already running Tinker 17.10.1, though it could possibly be 17.10. The weird thing is that I must have printed 300 hours since I updated the firmware last and this is the first time it has crashed.
  • Create New...