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  1. I have converted two of my UM2s to 1.75mm so I have some spare parts left over. I'm located in Sweden but I can ship basically anywhere. Outside of EU might make things complicated with customs and such though but not impossible. I have the following: *Two bowden tubes including locks and clips. One has been used about 500 hours and the other about 1500 hours. *Two original blocks. One has been used about 250 hours and the other is brand new. The used one is a bit dirty. *Two Olsson blocks. To the best of my knowledge these are genuine Ultimaker blocks but
  2. I have one unused (I previously wrote unopened which on reflection wasn't true) roll of black Ultimaker Fex PLA that is never going to see use. Not sure if they stopped making the stuff because it was terrible or something else. Any takers? Shipping is going to be expensive from Sweden though, probably along the lines of €28 to Europe so I'm thinking a low price tag just to make it worth my trouble to send it. Note that the original bag had been punctured so I replaced it. Might need a bit of drying out.
  3. Martin Bondeus actually lives about one and a half hours drive from me. :-) He makes great stuff, but slightly overpriced I feel personally. I'm sure his products would have saved me a bit of headache, but when I have had problems with grinding it has seldom been directly because of the grip from the drive gear but other factors. I'm not sure how many of those situations would have been too much even for the dual system to handle. Anyway. I'm happy with my current solution. It seems to be working very well. But since I only have UM2s and no plans of buying a 2+ it won't, like you pointed
  4. Yep. The UM2 is kind of a mediocre printer with incredible potential. It doesn't shine until it has the Olsson block, a geared feeder and a new fan shroud. But boy does it shine.
  5. I knew that. Deep down. There had to be a reason I prefer UM2. :-) I don't have a 2+ feeder to hand or I could have had a look at it. I imagine that the tension with 1.75mm could be much too low. It's hard to see on the photos but one problem with the original parts on the UM2 with 1.75 is that there is no groove to keep the filament in place. So it tends to jump off. This can be rectified with a tighter throat but with the 2+ feeder the options for modifications might be quite slim. Is there any chance that the larger gear could be removed and implemented into a completely new f
  6. Literally ten seconds before I got a notification about your reply I finished publishing the modified feeder I use on my converted UM2. I'm guessing one would prefer to use the original feeder as that design is quite nice or so I've heard. But the way I solved it (nothing genius or new about it really) might give you a brainwave. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternate-iroberti-feeder-body-for-1-75mm-filament
  7. I will start thinking about it quite seriously then. :-) The print head actually sticks out through the front? Weird design. Like I said, I have never even seen an UM3 in real life so what do I know. Would love to play around with one for an afternoon though and get a feel for it. I guess my three upgraded UM2's is somewhat of a statement of my liking for the machine. I was actually called a "brand boy" by a Prusa MK2 owner the other week, but he meant it well. Still, the UM3 is a bit rich for my taste. Perhaps sometime in the future when they start to show up used.
  8. I don't have much to add to this. But a few tidbits. I can attest that 1.75 works beautifully on UM2 if you do it right. I'm thinking of making a small writeup about my conversion at a later date. The UM3 is very different with the print cores and such. I'm not sure at all it would work but since I have never seen an UM3 in real life I should probably just shut up. I have bought doors for all my three UM2s from a german eBay store called shopfablab. Excellent doors, though he doesn't list UM3X as an option. I bought my 2X from him though by sending a message and asking
  9. I see. My newest one is probably a later batch then. I was hoping I had just missed something. My other two are fairly quiet. My very first one was very loud but I didn't notice until I got my second one and realised how quiet it should be. I think the second one was pretty early because it had the very low light encased led strips. Anyway, I ordered a new fan for the loud printer and they are all just fine. Would have been even more quiet with it off though. I might get one of those switches and mount on the side I guess. It won't fit on the top because I use Alexander Leisentr
  10. HI, I'm switching block on my newest UM2 today. Had the chance to take a photo that really highlights the difference the I2K spacer makes, for those that still wonders. The spacer on the left is from 3DSolex. It has printed about 900 hours or so with I2K and spring replacement. The spacer on the right is an original Ultimaker one from a completely unmodified UM2. It has printed 221 hours. That spacer may be expensive but boy does it work.
  11. Hi, I bought myself a third UM2 yesterday. What can I say, with a couple of upgrades to make it a sort of 2+ I simply love these machines. This particular one was bought several years ago but the guy wasn't much interested in 3D printing, just 3D prints. He never got it working properly. So it has run 221 hours. Got eight spools of plastic into the deal as well. Paid €1100 so I'm happy. Though regretfully I suspect that the seller isn't as he originally wanted €1500 and he was a really nice guy. Buyers market though, there was two nearly identical for sale about 1,5 dri
  12. Well. Alright. Materials. We're into a whole new world of hurt here. There are about 30 different plastics available and all have their uses. My friend who works with plastic injection laughs at this. They have about 30 differents types of ABS with even more specialised properties, for example one that is only used when making parts for electrical appliances with an operating voltage of 5000 or more. But more importantly in your case, all have their disadvantages and limitations. I think you should spend some time reading up on materials to figure out what what work for you. To take a few e
  13. I don't know about the Creality but the Prusa isn't a bad machine in any respect. 3D printers in general are a bit of struggle. When they work fine they really work fine. But when they start to act up they can be frustratingly difficult to get back on track. And they require a fair bit of know how to maintain. That said, it's incredibly hard to beat the UM2 for reliability. And I think I can say without a shadow of a doubt that the Ultimaker is by far the easiest of the three to get up and running. Cura doesn't produce the quickest or most optimised prints but it produces fantastic resul
  14. A small update to this. I immediately restarted the print (though I redid the gcode to print three instead of four copies of the part). Took eight hours with no trouble. Started a new print for two more copies of the same part, also perfect. I'm currently two hours into my next print and still no more sight of this issue. Very disturbing.
  15. Thanks. Unfortunately I'm almost certain that I'm already running Tinker 17.10.1, though it could possibly be 17.10. The weird thing is that I must have printed 300 hours since I updated the firmware last and this is the first time it has crashed.
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