jonatanrullman

Could be. Would be worth making a thorough cleaning of it. I do an atomic pull pretty much every time I switch nozzle. I have a brand new 0.4mm nozzle I could try as well and see what happens. Extruder temp is 210C. Shouldn't need to be any hotter than that but it would be interesting to see what happens at 200 and 215. I will try these things tonight or tomorrow. After doing the prints above I packed up the printer because I'm doing a presentation about 3D printers to new members of our maker community and I couldn't do it without my Ultimaker now, could I? :-) Cheeers

It is currently at 10% I have tried adjusting that as well. I will give it another go so be sure. Note though that the problem does not appear to be with the infill. The innermost and outermost perimeter of the three looks just fine, it's the one in the middle that is printed at a faster speed that shows under extrusion. Though it is possible that the innermost perimeter is part of the infill and as such should overlap the one in the middle. This is a more close up photo. There also seems to be quite a wide gap between the lines even on the second layer. Almost like the first layer when the nozzle is slightly to high.

Hi everyone, I'm having the weirdest problem with under extrusion on my Ultimaker 2 lately. I'm out of ideas for what it could be. It is a regular 2 but upgraded with olsson block a meduza gearbox and iroberti feeder and a new drive wheel. I have used this setup for hundreds of print hours without trouble. I'm also using laberns spring replacement. Things I have done so far. *Checked the teflon. I'm using I2K and it looked like new. I'm wondering if there could be a little too much pressure from the spring replacement as I replaced that one recently. *Monitored the temperature during print. Doesn't overshoot or fall below the set temperature by more than a few degrees. *Checked the extruder steps using the move command. For 100mm of movement the filament moved about 100+-1mm inside the bowden tube (I had retracted it quite a bit so that resistance in the nozzle wouldn't cause trouble). *Checked the settings in the printers PLA profile. Flow is 100% and filament diameter is 2.85mm. *Checked the printer profile in Cura for filament diameter which was also set to 2.85mm. *Measured the filament, my cheap digital calipers say 2.77 which seem close enough to 2.85. *Upgraded the printer firmware from Tinkergnome 16.08.2 to 17.10.1. I printed the volumetric test. As can be seen the printer does not have much trouble with 10mm3/s. Though the text suffers quite a bit and on the 10-speed you can see a little bit of under extrusion or similar trouble just after the text. Looks good otherwise though. This is the actual problem I have. It is sliced with Cura 3.0.4 and the default fine profile with the only change being skirt instead of brim. I aborted the print on the third layer. Notice especially the inner perimeter on the left side. The small holes in tight corners I read somewhere might be a bug that has been fixed in Cura 3.1 so that doesn't concern me all that much right now. Has anyone got any suggestions at all? At this point I'd try sacrificing a rooster while naked in the dead of night if I thought it would help. Cheers

I'm still hunting this problem. It seems that it may have been two issues rolled into one. Possibly combined with a bug in 3.0.3 where infill overlap percentage does not reset. But I haven't tested that thoroughly yet. The main problem was severe under extrusion above certain speeds which caused some really weird gaps to form while the rest of the print looked perfect. I initially tested simplify which didn't show the problem. But I have since concluded that it was simply because the speeds where set lower. Cura 3.0.2 does seem to slice this particular model better though for some reason. But it might very well be my imagination combined with solving some of the other problems. If I can substantiate that there is in fact a bug in 3.0.3 I will be sure to report it.

Hmm. Must have 3.0.2 I had then. I have never had a beta. 3.0.2 shows the same problem to a point. Though I have found a very weird discrepancy in the default settings between 3.0.2 and 3.0.3. The hunt goes on.

Hi, Last tuesday I upgraded to Cura 3.0.3. I believe I had 3.0.0 before that (though it could have been 3.0.1 or 3.0.2). I am having the weirdest issue with under extrusion and gaps inside perimeters and the only thing left I can think of is something in Cura. But for the life of me I can't find 3.0.0 for mac to download anywhere and see if the issue disappears. Anyone know where that can be found? Cheers

Kind of late reply but if anyone stumbles across this thread in the future here it is. What I have done is use Meshmixer. It usually can't do much without messing it up completely and is kind of cumbersome to work with. But it has been very good at cutting objects in half.

I agree. Plastic in general does not like high temperatures for extended periods of time. In a situation like this where filament is jammed the plastic that does not ooze from the nozzle will be burned to a hard, black residue. Using the atomic method repeatedly, preferably with a light colour, until there is no black flecks left on the filament is a good option. If you have an olsson block I would remove the nozzle and clean it separately as well as feed a length of filament through the cool block so make sure there are no obstructions. Some use a gas burner to clean out nozzles but if you have access to something with a controllable heat (like a rework station) I would do the atomic method but only with the nozzle and a pair of pliers. Cheers

Way to necro this post. I'm not saying the Prusa is bad. It has gotten excellent reviews and the multi material system looks great. But I still maintain that it isn't in the same class as the Ultimaker 2 (which is the one I have). I'm not sure what the problem is with your UM3 but I have incredibly little downtime on my two UM2s. I did a larger print run for a board game accessory some weeks back. Had both my UM2s running simultaneously to produce the seven pieces for each accessory. One printer ran a 0.8mm nozzle to print a 220x160mm large plate in about 1,5 hours for 47 copies. The other printer ran a 0.25mm nozzle to print a set of grids for cubes with numbers in the bottom. It took eleven hours per print and I had to print 12 sets in all. Out of all those 60 prints totalling almost 200 hours on two printers I didn't have a single clog and the only thing I needed to adjust was the feeder tension after I realised the first 11 hour print had some under extrusion. After that I just removed the pieces, selected print and printed the next one until I had enough. It was a veritable production line. All in all I had slightly less than 10% failed prints and almost all of the failed prints for the 11 hour job was obviously from the very first one. The big plates obviously mainly failed from warping in the first corner. This was most likely because I couldn't use a skirt but went straight from priming to printing which made the first few cm of the perimeter of that corner a bit under extruded. I also printed straight on glass with hair spray because I wouldn't want to try and remove a 220x160mm plate from something more sticky. I'd call that reliability and ease of use. Cheers

No, not really. The difference between the block and the nano is at least pretty clear from the description, the nano comes a nozzle.

Yes, you notice a significant slowing down after a while. I usually clear out my cards every 20 prints or so. I this case I also formatted the card to see if that helped. Only remembered about the "new" card reader after the second printer failed as well. Cheers

This has been resolved it appears. My other printer developed the same problem today. And I realised that the common denominator was that I had just started using another card reader. It seems like it was quite dirty and left residue on the sd cards. A little bit of isopropyl alcohol spray on the card and inserting it ten times solved the problem, at least for now. Cheers

Hi, I just got a really, really weird issue on my UM2 extended. Out of the blue it stopped reading sd cards, I literally did a print 20 minutes before. It freezes on reading and only after a minute or so does it go to no card detected if you don't have a card inserted. Same with the card from my other UM2. Now, I would have been the first to say that the sd card slot has broken. Except there are a few oddities. I tried exporting all my material settings and it worked perfectly. I can open the file on my computer and see a couple of my adjustments. I tried a factory reset and after going through the guide it says to insert a card. Immediately when I did that it went into reading. So it seems like the detection pin is working just fine. My other UM2 reads both sd cards perfectly. I might add that i run tinkergnome 12.08.2 and have done so for about 1000 print hours without any trouble at all. I'm weary of upgrading though as last time I did the extruder motor lost all power. In another thread gr5 suggested to move the cables slightly. Any other ideas before I try that? Cheers

Hi, The 1.75 conversion of one of my UM2s draws closer. I was looking around the threads about the matchless blocks and stumbled across notes about a problem using it with I2K. It was hinted that the V3 design would solve the problem but I can't find any confirmation on this. Does anyone know if the V3 can be used with I2K without trouble? Cheers

I second the door. Recently upgraded my two UM2s with a door and its very nice. I can finally print ABS and it blocks out quite a bit of noise as well. I purchased from a guy called Cristoph in Germany. His ebay account is shopfablab. You can search for Fronttür Ultimaker 2 und 2+. He doesn't officially sell extended doors but since it is just a 100mm taller version of the small he did one specially for me. I'm sure he could do it again if you messaged him and asked. Very nice price (about €20 for a the regular door with shipping) and the quality was superb. Since I use different bed adhesives depending on the project I am considering buying another glass bed to be able to switch easily. I most often use blue tape but also glue stick and on rare occasions hairspray. Hairspray doesn't hold very well but gives a very nice finish. Glue stick holds quite well and it is easy to remove the print but I find that the surface is very uneven. Tape holds incredibly well but is very hard to remove the prints from and easy to damage so that is best for small pieces with difficult first layers or a small footprint. There are also other methods. I would suggest you get a couple of different adhesives and try them out. For filament I almost exclusively use Torwell and have done so for the last three or four years. If you can get hold of them is another matter. I would suggest you buy name brand filament and if possible stick to one manufacturer per type (pla, abs and so on). This is due to color matching and because different manufacturers plastics can behave slightly different. So it is easier to stick to one and learn what temperatures it likes and so on. Though settings can differ somewhat between different colours within one manufacturer as well of course. This is btw not something that is exclusive to 3d printing. My best friend works with injections moulding and even though they mostly use one color of plastic and add colouring in a mixing hopper in the machine they need to calibrate it for different colours as they can behave slightly different. Anyway. If you buy torwell, colorfabb, ultimaker of whatever doesn't really matter. Get the one that has a good reputation as well as good price and availability for you. Cheers

Yeah, I sort of figured. :-) Cheap, chinese clones usually suffer from being cheap. And also chinese. Would perhaps contemplate putting an E3D clone in a cheap i3. But a much more intricate design like the olsson block in my UM2's. No, I can live without that grief. :-) Cheers

Other manufacturers that are not 3DSolex but still olsson style blocks that fit well with UM2. Quite possibly the answer is none. :-)

Hi, Are there any other quality sources for 1.75 olsson blocks, nozzles and couplers apart from 3dsolex? Preferably in Europe. Swordriff will definitely be my first choice but I wanted to see if there are any options even worth looking at. Cheers

It does look like solder. 60/40 solder melts at slightly below 200 degress and pla is typically printed at 210-240 in an UM2. It's a long shot but could there be trace amounts of solder contamination in the Taulman spool that melts and accumulates in the nozzle?

Excellent. Thanks, Erik. I'm impressed that the TFM couplers hold up so well. The PTFE ones were truly pathetic even at high PLA temperatures (like 220-230), like I said my first one broke after about 200-250h before I upgraded to a geared feeder (yours in fact) and could lower the temperature. I haven't looked at neither of mine since the I2K upgrade but I haven't noticed any significant increase in friction so I think they hold up well. For the record. This is my updated table of expected lifetime based on the data from this thread. It is still a little sketchy but not quite as pessimistic as before. It still uses the 2/3 rules though so the real expected lifetime of every part in the list below is 50% higher. This is intended to account for both varying quality as well as accidents. Printer - 9 000 Fan shroud (if printed) - 100 PTFE+I2K or TFM - 1 500 Nozzle - 500 Heater+PT100 - 4 000 Rods+bearings - 4 000 Bowden tube - 1 000 Belts - 4 000 Other and bed adhesives are unchanged at $20 and $10 per 1000 print hours respectively.

Well. Now I have to get simplify...

I was just trying to google simplify. Do you know if it is possible to change the nozzle size in the process settings or do you still have to edit the gcode manually?

Hi everyone, I know there is a script to pause the print so that you can change the color. I have a project where it would save enormous amounts of print time if it was possible to do the first part with a 0.8mm nozzle and then switch to a 0.25mm and another color for the detailed top parts. I assume that this cannot be done purely by a script in cura but would it be possible to slice the exact same setup twice and splice the two parts together perhaps? These items will be printed with 100% infill which would probably help since the two halves of the print would not need to take the position of infill into account. Cheers

That is some seriously scary shit right there. I'm not an electrical engineer but the resistance of the heatbed should be around 5 ohms plus maybe one ohm in the cable to err on the high side. Making a detection circuit that can reliably differentiate between 6 ohms and 1 is probably pretty hard. I'm trying to find the connector but it doesn't seem to be documented and google is turning up nothing. I measured the pitch on my printer but couldn't make it out perfectly without disassembling the bed. It looks like it should be 3.5mm. Could you measure on your bed? Cheers

Not sure if this has been up before and been shot down. Couldn't find anything at a glance. I find myself more and more wishing that I could use the entire buildplate for prints and thus wanting to disable the skirt as a priming method. However, when I do there is inevitable a bit of trouble with the first perimeter that doesn't stick all that well and in general just making mess of things. As often as not the print must be cancelled. So I was thinking about solutions and it struck me that it would probably be quite easy and effective to include the option to have a partial skirt instead of a full. Say laying a 5cm long skirt at the front of the bed or something. That way the nozzle would get the good priming of a skirt without wasting a lot of build area. Cheers