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jonatanrullman

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Everything posted by jonatanrullman

  1. Yes. A small external device, like octopi, is certainly the best backup plan, as has already been noted. Albeit with quite a few drawbacks. I was hoping on a bit of discussion on this specific idea though rather than suggestions for alternate solutions. Not that I don't appreciate the feedback, it's just that all those other ideas have been covered pretty well elsewhere.
  2. Thanks. I had assumed that the UM3 used a newer board with better transfer rates. As I have understood it the ultimaker can run faster than the transfer rates can keep up with resulting in stalling. I have had this problem with my old printer, although I can't say for certain that it was due to bandwidth, cache or some other bug. I am leaning towards the latter two. If the UM3 uses basically the same board as the UM2 it seems like it would run into the same problem no matter what board it uses for the WIFI functionality. Perhaps this is just a theoretical problem. There are of course a few interesting methods for printing without the SD but with wifi. Octopi on a RPI and there is a firmware for the ESP8266 as well. I have used octopi previously (like two years ago) and it worked well until the operating system crashed due to power loss. While I am working on this idea (if I ever get beyond a planning stage that is) I will certainly try that once again and see if the theoretical bandwidth limit is a problem in the real world as well. I am not sure exactly how fast you would need to run the printer to run out of bandwidth (would depend on geometry of course) but seeing as this printer can comfortable and out of the box do almost twice the speed my old printer could after years of tuning I think it possible that I may encounter it at some point. Cheers
  3. Hi everyone, I have had a good look around this forum but I can't find if this idea has been up before. Might have been though as this isn't my idea, I just picked it up somewhere a while back and I have been mulling it over since I got my UM2. My biggest woe with the UM2 is the constant switching back and forth of the SD card. One little mistake in Cura and it's time to do the switching dance for half a minute. The natural solution is of course WIFI and many have been down that road. From my searches I have gathered that the WIFI enabled SD cards don't work. Although I'm not actually sure why and if there is a way to get around the problem somehow. The atmega is, no matter what you do, limited to the 250k baudrate which gives appalling transfers rates already at a theoretical level, limiting either the transfer rate to the SD card too much or imposing problems on printing live. I am not aware of any possibility to increase the buffer in Marlin as it is already quite crowded. I'm not sure I would want to replace the entire control board even if there were any suitable alternatives available. I like the electrical part of the UM2. It just works. I believe that Eric van der Zalm was working on a 32 bit controller for Marlin backed by Ultimaker, but I can't find any information on if it actually worked out and will be available. So how about this for a crazy idea? Use a simple wifi enable device, an ESP8266 for example, with something like a small array of SSRs to switch the electrical connections for the SD card back and forth between it and the controller. There are obviously quite a few problems to overcome and I think many would hesitate to mess around with electrical connections on a board which costs €350 if you manage to fry it. But if we start the discussion at a theoretical level and work from there? Cheers
  4. Thanks. They don't offer shipping to Sweden though. Interesting, I thought the UM3 clips looked pretty much identical to the 2+.
  5. Hi, Following my thread on getting an extra feeder I've now turned my attention to the bed clips on my UM2. I have not had any luck with the resellers in Sweden, one wanted to sell me an Extrusion Upgrade Kit and the other one hasn't replied in two weeks (unless the spam troll ate it). Nor have I had any luck with google or the search feature in this forum. I figured my next move is to email Ultimaker directly but seeing as other people might have the same question I am posting this here instead for anyone who comes after. In short. Are the improved bed clips from the UM2+ actually available outside the upgrade kit? And if so, does anyone know a reseller that carries them? Cheers
  6. SyntaxTerror had the parts I needed so this has been solved. Thanks everyone.
  7. I am so far very happy with the IrobertI feeder and a Meduza belt drive gearbox. Total cost, except for printed parts, would be about €15 plus 40mm of 5mm rod here in Sweden. I had to buy 1500mm rod so it was pretty expensive but I can use it for other stuff. Also had about half of the other stuff lying around. Price on ebay would be much less of course but I wanted to get up and running quickly. The bondtech extruder has a very good reputation. Personally I don't have any clear use for it right now but it is possible that I will in the future. Cheers
  8. 3dverkstan even refused to sell me a complete feeder, let alone the parts in it (didn't ask). Suggested I buy the upgrade kit, which of course isn't nearly what I asked for and also a bit expensive for someone who already has the olsson block. Should be pointed out that I did ask for three other parts that are in the upgrade kit (updated belt clips, feeder motor and a plastic part of the head that is broken) and they had no chance of knowing I already had the olsson block. So it wasn't an unreasonable suggestion. But still wasn't what I asked for. Still waiting on a reply from 3dprima. I use a gearboxed version of the IrobertI that I am incredible happy with so far. And it costs about €10 to build. Apart from these two parts if course. Cheers
  9. Thanks, I have already done so actually. It's very cheap, which is nice. But there is no way of telling what quality I will get. There's also the problem with the spring that, at least on my UM2, it has been grinded flat. I could do that of course, it would just be much easier and consistent from a quality perspective to get hold of genuine parts. Cheers
  10. Hi, I'd be very interested in buying an old UM2 feeder if anyone as one lying around. Perhaps after a 2+ upgrade. Could buy one new of course buy might as well ask first. :-) Actually I only need the spring and the ball bearing. The rest could be thrown away. Could buy similar parts new but I would like all feeders to be consistent so genuine parts would be preferable. If anyone has suggestions for where those two parts could be bought will of course also be greatly appreciated. Cheers
  11. Ah, I see. There is a small flap on the original fan cover it seems. Or perhaps it is something else. It obviously did not interfere with the block though. I am running the Zetoff shroud since friday and will be switching to Labern as soon as my ny ptfe coupler has arrived so I guess it isn't very important exactly which version of the block it is. Thanks
  12. Not sure what you mean by that since there is fan shroud from both sides. But I see that some pictures has the heater cartridge to the left and some to the right. Guess is doesn't make too much difference. Sorry.
  13. Thanks. Yes, i know they are consumables. It is an incredible printer out of the box. Even my demo unit prints just beutifully straight away. I'm really, really happy with it and at this moment, sort of high on the experience, I can't imagine why I would ever buy anything but Ultimaker ever again. I did some thinking yesterday and I have ordered some bits and pieces to fix the printer. I ordered the TF2K bundle so that I got the I2K and a new ptfe coupler. It was nearly twice the price of the TFM coupler but if it makes the couplers last longer it might be worth it in the long run. I also ordered 0.25, 0.4 and 0.8mm RSB nozzles for the olsson block, socket wrech, some maintenance stuff and all the parts needed for the Medusa belt drive gearbox. Total cost about €85. Feels like that was a pretty reasonable amount to spend on modifications and improvements. I hadn't thought of the bowden tube not being properly inserted. And a new coupler is on its way. So I will check and replace and then make a separate thread about that issue if it persists.
  14. That is an interesting point. I shall definitely print out the Labern shroud just as soon as I have decided upon the tfm vs i2k situation. Not planning to print those sorts of materials all the time. Although I would like to get nylon working. And I will probably do quite a bit of ABS as soon as possible. Not sure if the I2K helps out at those temperatures. I was, based purely on the sales pitch, under the impression that the I2K increased the longevity even at PLA temperatures. But perhaps the TFM coupler is the better alternative then? I do have another problem that someone perhaps can shine a light on. Can't figure out what to search for to find a good answer to it. The absolute top of the list problem I have with the printer is that every single filament insertion requires me to unscrew the four screws and manually insert the filament into the PTFE coupler. It seems that the filament will first catch on the top of the coupler and then on a small ledge inside it. Is that normal, or am i doing something wrong, or is my ptfe coupler just complete crap? That is probably because I am up very, very late and you live about -8 hours from me or so. :-D Cheers
  15. I seem to always manage to write a reply and post it just after someone else has replied.. Might be better to go the RSB or even matchless route then. Slightly more expensive but apparently some people with a lot more experience than me (like gr5 and the ultimaker team) has deemed them better than E3D ones. Or perhaps they are just cheaper. :-) Like I said, I'm not about to spend €2100 on a printer and then skimp on quality for the small stuff. Might as well buy the 4 nozzle set as the 6 nozzle set (two of which I may not ever use) and be sure that I did not risk getting the worse one.
  16. I think that the Zetoff fan is, rather ironically, a bit too good actually. I have done some pretty long prints the last few days and had no trouble. But after I installed the new fan shroud tonight the printer failed with heater error soon after the second layer started. I could see the temperature drop from 220 to just above 210 when the fans came on and then it struggled a bit up and down before it fell below 210 and gave the error. My nozzle protrudes quite a bit from the fan shroud so perhaps it isn't meant for olsson blocks. I dialed the fans back quite a bit in Cura, from 100% regular and maximum to 35% regular and 70% maximum and the temperature still dropped to about 216 when the fans came on but got back to 220 pretty fast and now it seems to work. Not sure if the fan speed is enough to produce good prints though. Noticed that the Labern shroud has a special version for I2K modded printers. Since I'm thinking of doing just that I could try and print that and do the mod which would hopefully align the shroud a bit better with the nozzle. Cheers
  17. Yes. It was very pleasant. Especially since the company I bought it from weren't the best I've ever encountered. After I had called them twice to find out what was happening to my order they finally, five working days after I placed the order, realised that they didn't have a box to ship it in and had to send one up from their main warehouse. One would have thought that they should have known that without me badgering them. But it finally (after 11 days) arrived in good working order and since it happened to come with a free €100 upgrade I hadn't counted on I guess I can't complain too much. :-) 3dsolex RSB nozzles are a bit more expensive than the E3D ones. I can get the four main sizes of RSB or the complete 6 nozzle range from E3D for just about the same money. I will most likely order the TF2K kit from 3D solex and some other stuff from the E3D supplier anyway so shipping will probably work out about the same as well. gr5 seems to suggest that the RSB nozzles are superior but I can't find much else on it when I google. Anyone else have a preference? Cheers
  18. Thanks for the replies everyone. I agree that the upgrade kit does look sweet. The 2+ changes seem really nice all in all. I still think you could probably do it cheaper if you want, even with oem. I might point out that I'm not so stupid that I will buy a €2100 (for my demo unit) printer and then put some third rate chinese junk in it to save €5. I will buy proper stuff where appropriate. :-) I have had a look at the roberts feeder earlier tonight and it looks nice. I will print it out and give it a try together with medusa's belt drive gearbox. Might work and it will cost me about €10 in parts to find out. If it works well then that is €100 saved compared to the 2+ feeder right away. I have already printed Zetoff's new fan since it had some good reviews. I would love to get my hands on the new bed clamps from the 2+ but I can't seem to find them anywhere. Might have to ask a retailer if they can get them as spare parts or something. As for the Olsson block. A few minutes ago that took a rather fortunate turn when I happened to look at the printer from a lower angle. Hadn't done that before but I noticed a few odd details. Long story short, my printer already has an Olsson block. Can't tell you if it a 2+ one or the original thing though. It looks exactly like the original version and the one that was sold/given away by Ultimaker. Does anyone know if the 2+ block is identical to those or where there any changes that I can look for? Didn't get any extra nozzles though so I will have to buy some. The original took E3D nozzles. Does the ones that Ultimaker produced do to? Cheers
  19. Thanks. Yes, the PTFE coupler would probably be a good thing to replace. Or at least buy one to have at hand. I have not had trouble with the extruder at this point, only having done a few prints. But from the comments it sounds like it is not a bad idea to do something about it to avoid trouble that may or may not arise. Doing a bit more research yesterday I think that I will give Medusa's belt driven "gearbox" a try with the original feeder. It's very cheap to build so I might as well just try it out and if it works then I can put the money towards other improvements. And if it doesn't work then I have only wasted €5 or so. Problem with the extrusion upgrade kit is the price and what you get for it. It seems to me like you pay about €200 for the convenience. Perhaps a bit more. Which is fine if you like convenience of course. After a bit more research yesterday and today I am however pretty sure that I will do my own version of the upgrade kit because it does look like a nice set. I just think I can do it for about €150 instead of €500. Cheers
  20. Hi everyone, I have just come home with my "new" Ultimaker 2 Extended. It's actually not new, it's a store demo that I got for about 2/3 of the retail price of a 2+ Extended. A fair deal I felt. I have spent the last week and a half trying to read up on a few subjects but I have found a bit too much conflicting information to be able to make the right choice. I should point out that this is not my first 3D printer. I have had a much cheaper one for 3 years as well as currently being in the process of heavily modifying a i3 I bought cheap. I did however want a printer I could just rely on to work, at least for now, so I decided to go with the Ultimaker. Because, you know, it's an Ultimaker. The first question is one about my specific machine. Specifically what you think about the runtime stats. I know that these machines are really built to last and will do so. An acquaintance have one of the originals that I believe he bought when it was fairly new and it is still his primary workhorse. Although I don't know to what extent he has modified it. The stats in my printer says that is has been on for 1776:51 and printed for 706:42 with 517m of material. I assume that his is hours and minutes, which seems to tally with it being a demo machine. It has been on and running for extensive periods and printed far less. 517m of material doesn't sound too much to me, that would be about 5kg or so of PLA, right? What do you think about these numbers, should I be paying attention to anything specific that might be in need of maintenance or replacing? The second question is about the feeder. I understand that the feeder is one of the major points on the 2+ as the old one had a bit of trouble with overheating and not being able to feed material properly at all times. I am not too sure about buying the upgrade kit. For one it is incredibly expensive and second I have not yet decided if I want to give dual extrusion a shot in the future. I do however want to replace the feeder sooner rather than later so I'm thinking that I could replace it now while leaving the door open to convert it to a 2+ or perhaps a dual E3D in the future by just adding the extra parts. I won't be needing the simplicity of the real upgrade kit, so as long as the critical parts can be acquired individually I can sort it out later on. Anyway, to get to the actual question. I believe that a genuine 2+ feeder can be bought from a number of retailers. There is also the E3D titan which seems a bit flimsy to me. Are there any other good options that I should look at and does anyone have any helpful suggestions? Looking at videos and reading around there seem to be a lot of different opinions on this so I have a bit of trouble making heads or tails of it. Cheers
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