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  1. Yes, original printcores. The faulty printer was still getting errors with a different brick. Another printer was all okay, running with the faulty printers brick. I'll contact iGo3D then, that's where we got all our printers. And I hope that their service is not gonna be as bad as I heard before...
  2. Bad news. Next print failed after two (?) hours again. Another printer was running next to it, no errors there as usually. Logs are included. Do you have any other options that I can still try? Logs3 (make it .zip).log
  3. Just swapped it with another printer and started a print, I'll keep you updated on the results. Didn't take a close look at the power supply unit for quite a while, after holding it in hand once again it's quite obviously the brick :D
  4. This printer is running on the same power line as two more printers, only this one is getting the errors, even when they're running at the same time. They are placed in a laboratory, it is theoretically possible that there are power spikes or other fluctuations on the network, but afaik nothing else worth mentioning is connected to that subnet. (Some laptop chargers maybe) wouldn't all the printers get the same error, if it was an issue of the outer power line? Which part do you mean by brick, are you talking about the brick-like AC-adapter? I'll try swapping those.
  5. I am still repeatedly getting the same error, although I have been using only the original AA cores. It's only happening on one of my three printers, so I think I can rule out the possibility of errors on the outer electricity supply. Could one of you please check the logs again, because I really need to have this problem fixed. I've already wasted a lot of time and material on these failed prints, aside from the fact, that a printer not running is a printer not earning money. Best regards Robin
  6. For the next print I exchanged the Core1 to a standard 0.4mm AA core, same error appeared again. Logs are included, like last time. The print lasted a lot longer then the other prints before, got nearly done. Nevertheless, not far enough. Logs2 (make it .zip).log
  7. Okay, I will contact 3D-Solex then and keep you updated. For now I'll just stick to using my standard cores. And regarding the error circumstances, you are both right. This error did appear right at the start of a print before. But as I have a habit of heating the bed first, then taking out the usb and prepare the gcode, that only happened a few times.
  8. Very funny that the firmware is not the latest, I flashed the printers on 19th of march. I'll do it again anyways and see if it helps. Thanks a lot for the insight, your description quite matches my expectations. Would it make a difference if I use a smaller nozzle on the hardcore, like 0.8mm? Should I use the core AA 0.4mm settings, when using hardcore with large nozzle? I seemed to be getting better results, when using the core AA 0.8mm profile (and clicking "ignore wrong nozzle diameter" at start of print). I have a second hardcore which I could use for furth
  9. Hi, included is a .zip with the log files from yesterday and today. After my last message I tried another print, I loosened the screw of the printhead pcb a little, as I read somewhere that this seems to have solved some issues. Didn't help, print failed again, that's the second log. Possibly interesting information on hardware: The printhead pcb is an exchanged one, as the first one got damaged and one of the contacts broke off. The printcore I was using was a Hardcore with 1mm nozzle, printing on settings of Printcore AA 0.8mm (with adjusted line width), PLA. Second core was s
  10. I have been getting the same error repeatedly as well, "printcore in head slot 1 is taking too long to warm up". I have just a few days ago replaced the white silicone nozzle cover and also the silicone nozzle rings. I am quite sure now, that this can't be the reason anymore. Now how can I find out, why this error appears?
  11. Whenever I did the calibration before, the changes were usually in a rang of +-2, which is 0.2 mm I guess. So I also stopped doing it and still had good results. But I was running one print where I could easily see that the calibration was absolutely wrong. So I did the calibration. Result: x to -9 and y to 9.5
  12. I used the firmware on this link, the version is simply called "latest". https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23129-updating-firmware On first sight I didn't see any information inside the file to easily check the version either. I installed it via USB on an UM3 extended and two UM3. Everything else is working fine. I didn't know it was in any way necessary, to check if an UM3 is compatible to the newest UM3 firmware. If you're talking about wether I really used the UM3 firmware and not e.g. for UM2, I just checked, that the file on the link seems to be the same l
  13. Hey, I think I found something not right in the latest firmware for UM3 and UM3E, when I'm doing the XY calibration print, after the first part is done, PC1 is kept at 175 degrees. When the second part is done as well, the screen shows "Cooling printcores", which can be aborted. There the PC1 is still kept at 175, whilst PC2 is being cooled down to something less than 100° or whatever. I don't know if this is supposed to be that way, thought I should tell you.
  14. Okay, I will try to answer all the questions. The metal compound filament is stuck in the hardcore. I repeated this print on two different UM3 which each had an individual hardcore. Both hardcores were bought together from the same reseller. I need to find out first, which one it was. I can't say if it's stuck in the PTFE area or in the heatsink, because I never took the hardcore apart before and don't know where exactly each part is. But it is not stuck in the nozzle. After removing the filament (picture) I can feed fresh filament easily. The filament does not
  15. Hi folks, I am doing some prints with metal compound filaments and as it is very tricky, I want to share (and archive) my results here. I am using UM3 with Hardcore SS0.5mm nozzle on ex1 and standard AA on ex2. The filament I am using is Conrad Renkforce PLA compound bronze and the new Ultimaker breakaway for support. (Breakaway is fantastic btw, it prints flawless and removing it really is a matter of seconds.) For the compound filament I had been using the generic PLA settings, just changing the printing speed to 30~40mm/s. There has been some oozing, but the
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