The3DPrintStudio

I have the 3dSolex Hardcore with 0.4mm and 0.8mm nozzles. When printing I have noticed with both sizes that when the UM3 does the final retract at the end of a print after the nozzle has cooled a little bit that the filament is stuck in the nozzle and causing some grinding and raises the nozzle enough that active leveling doesn't work for the next print. Is there a way to change at which temp the UM3 does the final retract. I have the machine set to PLA and this has happened with two different types of PLA. I had not noticed any issues like this when using the UM printcores.

I view the UM3 camera over the internet using /?action=stream. Everything worked great however I upgraded to the publix beta for iOS11 and now the video flickers. It works fine when I am viewing it locally through the Ultimaker app. Is anyone else running the beta and seeing the same issue?

This is what I did for my printer and it has kept the same address for months.

Is there a release notes page for the new firmware?

I would reach out to your reseller as they should have better troubleshooting or if it is a defect with the printer would be able to offer service/replacement.

What if you do a manual leveling to get the build plate closer to the nozzle and then attempt an automatic leveling?

Does the Ultimaker 3 app connect to view the camera feed on port 8080/?action=stream or does it have a different way to pull the video feed. It appears to be a much crisper camera feed.

Would having a z-offset in the slicer help with this issue if a firmware update takes too long to get out? I know in Simplify3D there is an option to add a Z-offset and I usually have mine set to add 0.05mm to the initial Z height.

No I haven't had any issues. I was just wondering for the 3 if there was any great advantage to a set of $400 extruder motors.

Has anyone tried these out on the UM3? http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/upgrade-kits/ultimaker/ultimaker3-extruder-upgrade-kit.html. I wasn't sure if there was much of a benefit for a $400 upgrade.

While I don't have an answer for you, I would reach out to fbrc8 in the US. They offer support for the UM3 and are very quick to reply. There is also a facebook group https://www.facebook.com/groups/Ultimaker3 where Erin from fbrc8 is quick to help out as well.

The horizontal line is only with Cura. It is where there is a solid layer due to using the gradual infill. I don't see that on the print using Simplify3D. I do however get the vertical blobs on both slicers.

Yeah this was the one I was looking at. https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um3upg/ultimaker-3-core-hardcore-with-two-nozzles-pilot-read-full-description-please.html

I am printing a business card holder and running in to issues with marks on the print. I have tried Cura and Simplify3D, but both result in a large z-seam on the print. I would like to use Cura, but I have had a hard time getting a good print with it. Any steps in the right direction would be appreciated. The photo below was printed with the default PLA settings in CURA 3.6

Has anyone used the new HardCores with the 3dSolex branded core? It a little cheaper than the ones based on the ultimaker core, but I wasn't sure about quality.

I got the glass plate replaced and it made a huge difference as it was definitely bowed. I also started using simplify3d again and there is an option for a global z offset so I can adjust that to compensate for the autoleveling.

I will try switching plates and see if that changes anything. They are both running FW 3.6.

The default starting script for simplify 3D is: M106 S0 ; fan off M204 S1500 ; default acceleration M205 X15.00 ; maximum X Y jerk T0 G1 X2 Y5 Z5 F15000.0 ; heating location M140 S[bed0_temperature] M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; heat left M190 S[bed0_temperature] M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; stabilize left G1 Z0.2 G92 E0 ; zero extruder G1 E30 G92 E0 ; zero extruder G1 X100 E15 F1000 ; purge left extruder I would like to modify this to still go to X2 Y5, but instead of purging the extruder from x2 to x100, do a Cura style purge where it just depositing a large blob of filament. I found this does a better job getting rid of any different color PLA when swapping colors. What would be the best way to change this to do that. I know G280 does the filament purge on the UM3, but I'm not sure what to remove/replace.

I have had my UM3 for about 4 weeks now, and I just got a second one. I am noticing on the first that the first layer is very close to the bed compared to the new one, and I feel like it has been getting closer over time. I use auto-leveling on both, and printing the same g-code there is a noticeable difference in the first layer. Any tips on where to start to get the first layer higher?

Do you guys put anything on the glass when printing in PETG? I have seen some people mention it can stick so well to bare glass that it pulls up glass shards.

I think I remember hearing that this is fixed in Cura 2.5 beta.

I have been having this problem. Today, I accidentally clicked print on the Ultimaker 3 before plugging in the flash drive, and then I got a message saying something like "Insert flash drive". I inserted the flash drive and it was able to read the drive. This was the only time I was able to get the 3 to read the drive if I removed and reinserted it without a power cycle on FW 3.6. I have not had time to reproduce this, as it is currently printing, but I figured it was worth a shot for others who are having a similar issue.

I am getting some marks on the outer walls of my models which I believe retracting while wiping the nozzle would resolve. Is there a setting in Cura that would help with this? I know simplify has a retract during wipe option, but nothing in Cura stood out to me.

This isn't a direct feedback about the forum itself, but I love seeing people directly involved with the machines and the software on the forum and replying to posts. It is great knowing that our feedback, both positive and negative, is well received by the people who can make the change.

@Smartone, I found that if I turn combing to "no walls" and then I also lowered the Flow for printing PLA to 95% and this seemed to fix it. It looks like it was a mix of overextrusion and the combing is doing a Z-hop when it moves over the outer layers.