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Brannfjell

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About Brannfjell

  • Birthday 01/06/1987

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  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    Engineering
    R&D / Exploration
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  1. I will as soon as they have been tested a bit more and I clean up naming and materials. Also got a couple of guys testing for the Formbot Raptor v 1. Im also a total rookie when it comes to github but I´ll manage.
  2. Yea i figured that much and I did have a look at the UM-settings (i run UM3 as well), but I would need to make a Quality-setting for each material and then limit what Quality-settings are displayed based on the selected material, meaning I would need to make both Quality and Material setting for each materialtype, this pretty much makes the split between material and quality settings almost wasted... In this case it would mean at least 3 default profiles for each of the follow filaments PLA PETG TPU/Flex 98A (Probaby fine on the PLA-settings since retraction can be material-adjusted) TPU/Flex 95A and lower (Because of different printspeed than 98A & PLA) Wood Nylon, PC-Materials, and other hard things ABS & ASA Just these would result in at least 21 Quality-profiles, but could have been 3 if materialsettings could affect speed and we need to make the material profiles anyway... Am i missing something or does it kind of make sense?
  3. Hi dear Ultimaker Team, this is a question or a request... I spent some time this weekend making a machine configuration for the Formbot Raptor 2.0. Imported an STL for the visual aspects and made a few default profiles along with some nozzles/hotends. So far all is good until i start working on materials... Temperature, retraction and cooling are material settings - very good. BUT I wish you would add a connection to first layer speed on material selection. speed_layer_0 = =math.ceil(speed_print * 0.7) and perhaps even a math-setting for other speed settings. Why? Because I want my PETG to print slower on first layer Because i want my TPU to print slower on every layer But aside from that most of the remaining Quality settings are the same.
  4. I spent some time digging in the Cura-files this weekend and I now made my own configuration template for Raptor 2.0 with graphics and everything inside Cura. In my opinion the Cura team should make some more efforts into making this easier for all the crazy people out there who just wants a decent setup... @AbeFM if you want some pointers I´d be happy to help, my settings are not stored in the temporary user-files folder (that gets reset almost daily because of new releases) my printer shows up on the "others" list when you use the add new machine wizard and i made 6 default profiles for it that all are decent for their purposes and make excellent template for deviations.
  5. Hi everyone, I´m looking to buy one or more new glass plates for my UM3 but cant seem to find any information on exactly what Ultimaker deliver along with their machines. My current glass has started to fall appart after printing alot of PETG so im looking to get at least one new glass plate for UM3, but i also want the same extremly good adheison for my CR-10 S5... Since my UM3 is currently returned to the reseller for a warranty repair I´m unable to measure the glass my self... Does anyone know exactly what Ultimaker did to their glass or just what kind of glass they used? The adheison is far better on UM3 glass than that of any other glass printsurface I´ve tried. Does Ultimaker sell their glass plates so I can buy additional, original, glass plates? (Link please?) For the CR-10 S5 I´m considering to buy float glass and just add a PEI-sheet on top of it if I cant get something like the UM3 uses...
  6. Awesome that worked great! Thanks a million! And just FYI if people wonder about the location... In Cura under the tab "HELP" there's a option to open your settings folder. (It's Local Harddrive:\Users\Your User\AppData\Local\Cura) for me Just copied my materials from 2.4 to 2.5Beta all at once, saved me alot of work
  7. Hi, I added all my different filament in Cura as different material from different Suppliers/brands... it Works great and With two printcores it's actually important to me. Anyway... Now I'm replacing my old Laptop With a New computer... I want to export my materials so i can import them on a New computer. What is the best way to do this? Exporting one by one is almost as much work as making them all over again on the New computer. Would it work to; Copy-Paste the entire CURA-folder and reinstall cura to the same folder on the New computer?
  8. @swordriff There was no tampering with the filament before it jammed, it happend during a print, and there was no change of filament either... had been like 3 prints before the jamming occured. What might have started as a normal lower nozzle clogging could have evolved to this due to the print job proceeding with a clogged nozzle. The feeder kept feeding even after the nozzle was clogged since there is no smartness to detect a failed job. I aborted the print as soon as i noticed that there was no filament extruding, but this was after the feeder had chewed trough the filament.... so probably a lot of pressure towards the clogged nozzle causes the filament to deform in the piped area prior to the hot-end
  9. Figured people might be interested to know that I´ve printed aprox 100g of filament with no problem today. Ofc did some cold pulls before printing with the printcore...
  10. Printjobs with a lot of retraction can cause this problem. Also there is a way to release tension in the feeder by tightening the small top screw on the feeder, this could help too...
  11. I will resume printing and if the problem returns I will contact my reseller. However; i believe this is a side effect of the new PLA. Since this PLA is much less brittle and wont break easily the trade off is that it deforms rather than crack... I only ever used filament from the same reseller as ultimaker-reseller and they are super serviceminded so i doubt i will have any problem with them if this filament causes more trouble.
  12. So i started disassembly, and well... i'm surprised. now i can see trough the rest of my nozzle... so this problem seems to be that my PLA is stuck in the top of the pipe. the biggest part of the PLA is 3.6mm and the thinnest 3mm (thinnest @ bottom) The PLA itself must have deformed/expanded while the feeder has been pushing filament towards the nozzle faster than what my printer pushed it out... (but my flow was only 100%) Anyway - im happy this is solved and hope my core still prints good when i put it back in one piece.
  13. Ok... so this is what i think; Heat has creeped up and melted some PLA above the heat element and this PLA wont melt now while im trying to remove it.. and since this PLA is a improved kind it doesnt break as easily as PLA normally would. The picture is from my other AA Core. The first 20mm is open and this is the area that gets heated by the heating element. Then there is a clog that doesnt get heated up, this also prevents me from pulling the filament up. I will now cut the filament Remove print core from printer Seperate the heating element, Chip, plastic and filament mount-pipe Heat up the Filament mount-pipe (blue) Remove whatever i can, and if stuff is still stuck i will use a drill to remove whatever remains. (this should be in a 2.85mm area, not 0.4) Meanwhile my second AA Print-Core will be in use and I'll probably order the 3D Solex Hard Core
  14. Filament is still stuck like in my first picture. Only difference is that i now know that the bottom 20mm is clear since i can put my 0.4mm wire up. If there are different parts of the Print Core AA that has different names I'm not sure what part is considered the Head... anyway the bottom 20mm is clear, the rest i have no idea... except that its damn hard stuck. It's labled PLA, i ordered PLA and it behaves like PLA. The previous prints completed prefectly with PLA-settings. Only thing that is different from my previous PLA is that this is not brittle and does not break easily. Printhead has been in the corner all the time while i've applied any kind of force and I've left it for several minutes with heat on. I will not use a heatgun then... Considering my next step to be chopping of the filament and removing the printcore
  15. I did a whole lot of tries to push/pull before going up to higher temperatures.... I strongly doubt I will be able to apply any significant pressure from underneath compared to the pull/push force. I do not want to apply any more force by pulling/pushing since I'm afraid I'll break/bend something. Anyway I tried pushing a 0.4mm wire up from underneath and it got 20mm up before it stopped. Could the PLA be stuck above the heated area? Could a possible solution be to use a heatgun to heat up the upper parts of the Print Core? how would would it require to be before most PLA would be soft? (Got a temperature adjustable heatgun) Im also considering to buy a nozzle drillset... a new print core (been looking at 3D Solex Hard Core Six Basic-pack)
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