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GrimJeeper91

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About GrimJeeper91

  • Birthday 09/18/1967

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    Engineering
  • Country
    US
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
  1. I believe WolfBite is simpye acetone with ABS dissolved into it so perhaps you can make your own. When you brush it on in a thin layer the acetone quickly evaporates leaving a thin film of ABS behind it. I'm not kidding when I say the parts pop off on their own. As the tray cools you can hear cracking sounds of the ABS releasing from the glass. If you wait for the glass to come to room temperature the parts will literally jump up when they finally release.
  2. First, Is WolfBite easy to apply? Adhesion has been one of my issues with anything but Klapton tape which I find to be a pain. I occasionally want to print something in ABS (for smoothing) but talk myself out of it as opposed to Kaptoning the glass. Second, my other problem with ABS is with fine details. I had a Makerbot clone and a directed fan that made that kind of detail work possible that I have not been able to duplicate on my UM2+ (but that does work pretty well on the UM3). DO you do prints like what I am describing and if so how do you get a good result? Here is an image of a model that I struggled doing with ABS on my UM2's: The details on the top of the hull would not have that definition. I don't mean to hijack you thread @brunbjoern! Yes WolfBite is easy to apply as it's a solution that you brush on in a thin layer and it dries very fast. For higher detail you might need to experiment with some fan usage or slowing down the print toward the top of the print.
  3. Yes, the option to "Automatically drop models to the build plate" is checked. I don't have this issue with all models, maybe 30% of them. For those 30% I need to use another slicer to prepare the output file.
  4. I have a UM2 and have been printing exclusively with ABS with excellent results. As I'm sure you have already heard you need to keep the heat in. Print cooling is off. I don't have a door but I do have a plastic bin that's the perfect size sitting on top of the system. This seems to be all I need as it reduces convective currents through the machine (helping keep the heat in). I run the bed at 110C and use WolfBite to coat the glass for good adhesion. WolfBite is awesome. Parts hold tight when building but afterward as the glass cools the parts pop off on their own. I doubt you will be disappointed with your choice.
  5. With quite a few files Cura places the part with the bottom of the part protruding below the build plate by about 0.060 inches. Of course building this way results in my part being too thin. All efforts to orient the part correctly fail. What is going on? FYI, UM2 & Cura 2.3.
  6. The more information you provide the more help this community can provide. What system, material, extruder temp, bed temp, etc.
  7. I've been printing (UM2) exclusively with ABS lately and get perfect parts every time. I'm using Pro Series from Matterhackers. Here's the settings that are working for me: 245C extruder, 110C build plate, no fan, 90% fill, no brim, Wolf Bite solution on glass. I'm currently running 36 pieces of a part that's 3 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/2" tall (obviously spread over several builds). I've tried building on masking tape, Kapton tape, BuildTak glue stick and now Wolfbite. Wolfbite blows the others out of the water. The parts hold tight to the glass w/o a brim until the build is over. As the glass cools you can hear the parts breaking free due to the ABS and glass having difference shrink rates. The parts literally jump off the glass by the time everything has come to room temperature. Even a majority of the flimsy skirt releases when it cools. If you prefer ABS and haven't tried Wolfbite yet then do yourself a favor and get some.
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