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exforma23 last won the day on June 13 2019

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  1. Bobby, The slippage that I was experiencing was definitely not due to wear on the knurled drivewheel. My my switch to the Bondtech was the result of my desire to not reduce speeds on certain materials/strategies that were inherently more prone to slippage. Ultimately, I could always find a setting that worked with the stock feeder. However, the Bondtech simply grips the filament better and leads to fewer failed prints. Especially with larger nozzles at higher speeds. Like you, I generally don't mess with settings and prefer an out of the box experience. I would say that you can clearly do
  2. Keep in mind, I am not liberally hosing down the inside of the printer. I do a light application with the nozzle right up in the hood, let that layer dry, then do a one more light application. You can see a slight hazy cloud of the spray trapped in the hood. After a few seconds it settles down on the surface.
  3. Geert, Fortunately for me, your theory does not apply in practice. I have been printing for 3 years on two different printers using this method. I've done this hundreds of times with no discernable overspray.
  4. I made the spray hood that I showed above. It works perfectly. No overspray at at all and I don't have to remove the glass. Where I live, "Aqua Net Extra Super Hold" is readily available and cheap. No clumping. I usually apply 2 light coats. I also have a little USB fan that I aim at the bed to speed the drying. Sprays on smooth, as it should, and leaves the mirror finish of the glass as after heating the bed it kind of glosses over smooth. Superior adhesion with PLA to any other method that I have tested including several types of glue stick, glue/water mixes, blue tape, and geckotek surface
  5. Is there a way to adjust the height of the bed when using active leveling? I have added a geckotek magnetic plate to my UM3E and with the added plate thickness (about 4mm more than glass) it raisees up and hits the nozzle during the leveling function. This happens on the gross upward move before it even gets to the fine adjustment. Active leveling is not working and I think this is contributing to the problem.
  6. So, I installed the geckotek magnetic base on my UM3E. The total combined thickness of the aluminum and the steel plate is about is about 7.4mm. So, this is about 2x as thick as the stock glass. Active leveling does not work because it raises too high and hits the nozzles before the fine tuning even begins. Is there a way to reduce the initial raised height when it runs this process? cjs, What are PID values and how do I change them? I am new to putty and only used it so far to adjust the e-steps for the bondtech DDG
  7. Somehow, after a reset this a.m.everything is kosher again. Strange, because I reset twice yesterday with no effect.
  8. I tried this and my browser cannot connect. Timed out
  9. Has anyone else had a problem with solex printcores arriving damaged!? I have purchase four of them and they ALL have been damaged. The first had the spring loaded clear tab broken off. The second had a bent infill tube. The third was bent at the heat break just below the red heatsink. The fourth with another bent infill tube. They come packed in a sexy little metal box with foam. It looks great but they appear to be wedged in too tight and get bent. Has anyone else experienced this? Or, am I just extremely unlikely? Maybe I hav
  10. Anders, I have a tool for already for that. I printed a part that is 14mm thick. This is the prescribed distance between the top of the Alu. deck and the bottom of the heated plate. So, I can eliminate that from the equation. Keep in mind that the deck aluminum deck is not even close to level. So, I set the 14mm at the front and the back is a about 1/8" thicker. Also, I manually leveled it prior to using the garolite plate. So, I can eliminate that too. I'll test it some more to see if I can get the active level to work.
  11. I'll be sure to check this out when I get a chance. I bought the garolite from mcmaster carr (Part#9910T15) and bonded it to a borosilicate plate using this adhesive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAO06FS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have to give credit to youtuber "safety glasses required" for the idea. Here is what I ended up with It works a bit too well with Nylon. It can be pretty hard to pry the print off. I just have to be careful with the razorblade and scuff the surface with some
  12. I have a garolite build plate bonded to glass. It's essentially phenolic resin (quite hard) Active leveling does not work when I use the garolite buildplate. The specific heat of glass is .84 J/gm and aluminum is .9 J/gm. So, it appears that you are correct. I never would have thought. It turns out that they are actually extremely close.
  13. The original knurled feeder looks brand new. No wear and tear. I will say that from day one the "optimized" profiles for PLA in Cura have infill speeds that are too high for the stock feeder. My printer has always underextruded PLA on infill using the 80mm/sec setting in the standard profile. In optimal conditions the stock feeder works just fine. However, there are many variables that can contribute to friction/blockage that will cause slippage. Here are just a few: 1. Coming to the end of a roll and the filament is tightly bent. 2. Adding a drybox wi
  14. Nope. I do have a hardcore printhead but that's another 3rd party product that I haven't had a chance to test out. Do you know of issues with using a bondtech feeder with abrasive filaments?
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