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JohnInOttawa

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JohnInOttawa last won the day on October 11 2020

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  1. Thank you! Yes, an Ultimaker AA print core. I'll look for a needle. I think I have some on hand.
  2. Thank you! That is indeed the video. I tried a few different hot and cold pull techniques. I tried polycarbonate with pretty high heat by the time I was fed up, but I'll go back and try nylon and a twist. WRT the needle, a question there. Often when I do a pull successfully, I get two 'prongs' of filament on the very tip, I presume reflecting flow channels in the nozzle. I have always worried that pushing a needle in the orifice would damage the internal structure. Maybe a false worry? Thanks again. I'll try apply these new alternatives before I take things
  3. I was finally able to get a better look inside the core with a borescope. I wasn't able to get as far as I would have liked, but there is debris there that is resisting removal with the cleaning filament. I think what is going on now is that whatever is down there is either wedged or was baked at high temp from before and is not coming out with the cleaning filament, but rather is causing the filament to break first. Due to the small diameter of the nozzle orifice, I'm not going to be able to push the debris through. I will need to try something different.I'm wonderi
  4. Thanks for getting back to me. I've used two full rods of cleaning filament and the shape of what I am pulling out looks pretty good. There was a lot of material caked on the outside of the nozzle from the previous owner, so I am in the process of gently removing that now. I'm not sure how hot it was printed, so will try some high temp filament next. Thanks again! John
  5. I hope this finds everyone well! I've inherited an AA 0.25 print core, I don't know what material it was printing before I got it, but it seems unable to print with Ultimaker PLA, essentially behaving as though it is clogged. I've run through cleaning filaments, hot and cold pulls several times. The filament that I do get is much finer than I am used to seeing on my other .25, so I think something is still in there. Is it possible that some of the high temp filaments aren't cleared by the cleaning filament? Thanks for your thoughts!
  6. I know rafts are considered an obsolete technique, however the introduction of breakaway has, for me at least, revived this option for my nylon/glass and nylon/CF prints where I needed very flat and very matte on both lower and upper faces. I haven't tried polycarbonate yet, it's actually next, so I'll try that and post results. The breakaway adheres beautifully to the glass and the materials I've used to date stick to the breakaway but come away cleanly post print. If it is a must do project with one of those materials, that's my goto technique now. Wishing everyone
  7. Welcome back! Quite the adventure! Your artistry in this medium continues to amaze. Hopefully recovery continues! (Said selfishly!!) Thanks for continuing to inspire. John
  8. Just to add to marine3D, I looked at both options, twice, as the two UM3's arrived at different times. I still went with the DDG for the second upgrade for the reason marine3d mentioned. Despite having the UM3X stripped down for cleaning, all covers off and clear access for cabling, I considered the complexity and cost, as well as the incremental improvement I already had going from stock to DDG, and decided it was enough for me to stick with the DDG's That also offered me some interchangeability between systems, FWIW. Should be transparent, but I am trying to keep common thing
  9. In my case, I upgraded my UM3 to bondtech DDG (set of 2 for UM3)and used Hardcore print cores with everlast nozzles of a few sizes. I have been pretty happy with the change. Nothing is ever perfect and there is a firmware change to manage (bondtech provides a software tool now), but I find the bondtech feeders slip less and I have been able to print things more easily than with the original setup, with less worry. One aspect of the hardcore is that changing nozzles must be done with care to avoid fracturing the heat break. A used Ultimaker 3X just joined the operation
  10. I printed a version of these hinges and cut a door to match. I like the design, however I find that, in my case, when the door swings open it tends to pull the hinge forward and it releases from the frame. Now in fairness, I did not go with PLA for my final, so maybe stiffness was a factor. J
  11. Not sure if this will help you. I've been printing with Nylforce CF a fair bit lately, had two parts in the past three weeks that I had to get perfectly flat, strong (brackets in moving parts) and had to have decent surface finish. No matter what I have tried on the bed, I always end up with a bit of warp, and the glass finish on one side wasn't going to work. So I tried an experiment with an old technique and a new material - a raft made of breakaway. The later cura versions allow you to limit how much breakaway you need, just the raft itself and then interface layers.
  12. Thanks for listening to my suggestion! All the best John
  13. When you unload the filament, does it show any divots or signs of grinding?
  14. I've had this exact scenario. Here's the thread that got me back in business. Good luck! Let us know how it goes. John
  15. Thank you for your help! In the end, I thought I should just try it for myself. Please see the pictures below. The surface facing the raft is perfect. Matte finish, smooth, with the exception of some breakaway in pores that I have elected not to dig out. The part is perfectly flat. Maybe not an efficient use of the material, but the cleanest raft I have ever implemented. First pic is still on the print bed, second is with only one action complete, peeling off the raft and no post process. John
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