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JohnInOttawa

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JohnInOttawa last won the day on November 11 2018

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  • Field of Work
    Other
  • Country
    CA
  • 3D printer
    UMO
    UM3
    CNC

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  1. JohnInOttawa

    Infill doesn't reach shell!!!

    Can you verify if this is an Ultimaker printer or, if another type, what type? That might help decide if this is a coasting setting, extrusion issue, or something mechanical like a drive system skipping steps somewhere. I can't tell looking at the picture how the overlap is working at the opposite side. It almost looks like things misalign too much the other way. Also, would you be able to share your print material, temperature and speeds? Thanks John
  2. JohnInOttawa

    A setting to slow down around vertical text?

    Without knowing anything about your part geometry, is there any possibility of rotating it so the text is facing upward, then going with variable layer height? John
  3. JohnInOttawa

    Dimensional accuracy in Z

    Hmmm... Can ask this question a different way? What accuracy SHOULD I expect from a UMO, 0.3 nozzle running with the GT2 belt conversion? Thanks! John
  4. JohnInOttawa

    Dimensional accuracy in Z

    I know a lot has been said about dimensional accuracy already, the solutions seem to vary somewhat by printer. Here's my issue: I am upgrading my UMO to TMC2100. Just before I swap out the drivers, I want to establish a baseline, in case something goes wrong, I at least have a reference. I'm printing a 20x20x20mm cube. Dimensions without any adjustment are 19.78 x 19.80 x 19.79. Small in all dimensions. 0.3 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, 0.25 line width, adjusted for print quality with this filament (eSun PLA), so I would rather not tweak that further. I can adjust horizontal expansion, but I am still short in Z. My next thought will be to print a cube with vertical and lateral holes through it, but I thought I should dial this in first. Thanks in advance! John
  5. I know this thread is getting very old, but I will finally be installing TMC2100 on my UMO today. I will change X, Y and hopefully Z but will leave the extruder alone for now. I can do everything in this (excellent!) thread, except adjust Z steps/mm to 1066.6666. As my leadscrew is not for the heated bed and I am not certain it is original ( I bought this second hand) I may just have to write down the existing number and double it. I'm trying to use the online firmware maker here https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ I see the discussion above on modifying this with GCode, but as I seldom work at that level, would appreciate the syntax for setting, then saving the new steps/mm @gr5, would you be in a position to share this? Thanks! John
  6. Hmmm... I have an endurance laser and a UMO as well as a UM3. Im not sure I would want to hang a laser with that mass from those cross bars. Especially on something as pricey as an S5. It might work software wise but mechanically, as I say, hmmmmm. In my case I am going to mount it on a modified prusa design with a beefed up cross section and put an additional bracket on my gantry CNC for larger work. But in both cases the cross bar is either beefy extrusion (3d kit) or reinforced plate (CNC) John
  7. JohnInOttawa

    Printing with wood filament

    @ScienceDude you might find this thread of relevance. I found woodfill slightly less prone to clogging than copperfill. @SandervG has, I believe, made a relevant comment when discussing fibre enhanced filaments that may well apply to wood fill, and that is that a lot of retractions may contribute to clogging as the fibres or particles can realign crossways to the flow inside the nozzle at the orifice. I just had a job fail with that exact scenario, the first indication was intermittent extruder stalling and then layer quality degraded. I hope this is of some help.. Best of luck. Cheers John
  8. This thread should be a sticky - it's a great reference for that filament. Thank you for sharing. Cheers John
  9. Good morning everyone. I suspect this question has been asked and answered in various forms but I'm just not finding it today. Here's the idea: On my CNC (Gcode driven of course), programming tool changes is routine. These can be implemented without an automatic tool changer, the machine goes to safe and waits for the operator to advise when ready to proceed (after the tool change is complete). In my software (Mach3), you can change the tool, reset zero and move the gantry position if needed (to the zero reference), and when you hit the continue prompt, the machine returns to the correct position at safe, then descends and continues the job with the correct bit. Soooo, let's say I want to run a 3 color job on my UM3, for example a name plate background in black, with two colors (say red and white) embossing a logo on top. I only need black up to the point I am going to start with color so there would be no overlap (but I would need to get the exact layer correct). I'm aware of 'Pause at height' but the last I heard about that feature it was not working correctly and it was unclear to me if one could combine pause at height with a filament change and get good results. Maybe there is a plugin somehere? Thanks in advance! John
  10. JohnInOttawa

    XSTRAND GF30 PA6 Test Print

    Thanks for the verification @PaulK and @SandervG! Best wishes to you and yours in 2019! John
  11. JohnInOttawa

    Clicking during Y-Axis moves on S5

    So to be clear, the clicking happens mid travel, and not during a direction change of any kind? If it is mid travel, and once per rev, that suggests interference somewhere, two hard surfaces are contacting somehow. Barring something sticking out and hitting something, i'd wonder if there is a rod-end bearing behind that clicking. j
  12. That's discouraging to hear that the alternate print head is encountering issues. But at the same time, your testing methods seem robust to the point you can isolate it to the filament. It does sound like shelf life or humidity could be factors. I have not seen anyone try to chill filament and don't know what would happen if one tried. Certainly a refridgerator could be a low humidity environment and keeping the filament as cold as possible during print might delay softening just long enough to get the material through the 'danger zone'. Or it could just fail. I also don't know how rapidly the filament would warm to room temperature along the bowden tube. I have one of those electric coolers that should hold a spool. I may have to give it a try. Maybe colorfabb can lend some expertise.... John
  13. JohnInOttawa

    XSTRAND GF30 PA6 Test Print

    I'll be setting up for testing shortly. Thank you for the profile. One thing I am trying to locate in the threads is minimum nozzle size. I know the CC red is 0.6. Is that assumed to be the minimum nozzle diameter? I have a potential application that would go all the way down to .25 (hardcore/everlast). I appreciate this would be experimental. Thoughts? John
  14. While this filament makes for a pretty expensive 'try and see' test, running with 0.6 for a while to see how long it takes for trouble to recur would likely confirm your suspicions. If you are able to move volume at a rate that keeps up with heat creep and the heat absorption characteristics of the filament upstream of the nozzle, then it would seem certain that it's a cooling problem within the core and filament combination. I'm trying to think of other filaments that might print at that temperature but don't have as good heat conduction. maybe polycarb or high temp nylon without additives. I'm still trying to figure out the heat path - whether it is just along the metal path from nozzle through heat break then cooling tower and heating the filament the whole way, or if the primary contributor is within the filament itself. The rapid onset of problems suggests it's likely the former. I wonder why the number of cooling fins was reduced. Hmmmm. John
  15. That's an excellent analysis. I had not noticed the different cooling fin configuration. Are you heating both print cores for this work? I don't know of any way to get a temperature reading on the print core fins. A thermal imager would be best as it would not interfere with airflow like a probe would, but with the fan in place and lateral airflow affecting boundary conditions that's impossible. Indirect measurement like exhaust air temperature would be misleading if the problem is that the fins can't shed heat fast enough. A direct contact measurement would carry all sorts of risks, not least of which would be detachment and collision with one of the fans. I don't know of a practical way to feed colder air into that fan. It sounds like 3D Solex has been actively engaged, I know @gr5 would have a wealth of technical knowledge on these cores, hopefully there is a path forward from their help. Thanks again for sharing - it will ultimately help everyone. John
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