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JohnInOttawa last won the day on November 11 2018

JohnInOttawa had the most liked content!

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  1. Thanks! That sounds like a good approach to me. I might print off the original in a wax in that case, maybe make a 'lost wax' mold and use the clear resin as you suggest. Much appreciated. John
  2. Good morning everyone. I have been asked to support an application (impeller) that will have a high rotation speed and clearly also pressure increase per function. This is an experiment so vane design will be a function of safe RPM. I have input to that value. My first inclination was to say that FDM would not be able to achieve either the strength or weight balance required for anything more than very slow rotation. Then I thought, why guess, when I can ask here?? Has anyone successfully created high speed rotating parts with their Ultimaker (3)? If so, could you share what worked, what didn't, and advice on materials, safe limits on part size, RPM, etc? Thanks in advance! John
  3. That is true, I should have been clearer and divided the discussion or renamed it 'heat treating'. That said, what are folks using to address heat treating needs and how do those options change across the range of filaments? John
  4. good morning! Thanks for your replies. To clarify, I'd like to be able to sinter anything that can be improved with this phase. I understand that certain PLAs respond well, all the way up to metal binders. My understanding has been that, once one gets into the really high end metal 'binders' like the BASF Ultrafuse, post processing is really beyond the grasp of the general public, but my hope is to find out what is and is not practical, in the opinion of the members here. Much appreciated. John
  5. Good morning. I thought I would place this topic in materials as some of the newer ones (such as the BASF Ultrafuse) seem to be meant for sintering in order to achieve their specification. I have pretty much assumed that use of the family oven for sintering polymers is probably a recipe for a multi-level nightmare, so then what works? I have equally assumed that something small like a toaster oven would have a heating element far too close to the material and local hot spots would likely be too much. What have you tried and how did it go? Thanks in advance! John
  6. Good morning. I haven't tried a 0.8 nozzle in my UM3 so don't know if that is a factor. I would suggest matching all of the printing speeds. I can't tell if you have wall before infill, that might help. I'm also not sure if the line width and wall thicknesses line up. What does the Cura layer print show you for the UM3 configuration? Do any of these patterns show up? Not sure if the attached thread and its link might help. Cheers John
  7. I've printed a number of parts using woodfill and copperfil. I would not try this on a BB core. Indeed, once you get to 0.4 and below on an AA core, the printer needs to be monitored for clogging. I do like the results though! The way solids are suspended in the filament makes both of them somewhat prone to clogging if your print involves retraction. I have run them in a hardcore (AA) down to 0.25 nozzle, but that works for short duration prints only, after which I have to do both hot and cold pulls to clear things out. I'm not sure it would be possible to clear out a BB nozzle without doing harm to it. This thread is related, I hope this helps. Have fun John
  8. Good evening everyone. It's been a while, this has continued to be a busy place. I'm aware of an individual in the Greater Toronto Area who needs help with an S5 they have inherited. I believe their intention is to sell the printer, however as they weren't the primary user, they need someone knowledgable to verify things are in working order and assist with a demo for sale. I think funds are pretty tight, so this 'ask' is for volunteers. Unfortunately I am about 200 miles too far away to help in person, but I hope I can at least forge a link. Anyone interested, please PM me. Thanks in advance. John
  9. Great thread! I would be curious to know how closely these expansion parameters transfer to the UM3. I would like to dial dimensional tolerance in a bit better there as well. Thanks John
  10. Looks like this printer is in Canada, where abouts is it located? Thanks! John
  11. Hmmm. I'll try to print this when I am next at the printer. Sadly that is an unknown at this point. One thought in the mean time. I notice that your walls are one layer thick. Have you tried doubling that? At the same time, you might want to reduce your line width to 0.35. It almost appears as if the printer thinks your lines are wider than they truly are. Under the infill options, I notice you have some bigger expansion numbers than I've ever worked with, probably in an effort to fill in those gaps. But I also note your skin removal width is your line width. I'd suggest cutting that back to 0.1. I'd also suggest reducing the infill wipe distance to 0. Good luck! John
  12. Can you verify if this is an Ultimaker printer or, if another type, what type? That might help decide if this is a coasting setting, extrusion issue, or something mechanical like a drive system skipping steps somewhere. I can't tell looking at the picture how the overlap is working at the opposite side. It almost looks like things misalign too much the other way. Also, would you be able to share your print material, temperature and speeds? Thanks John
  13. Without knowing anything about your part geometry, is there any possibility of rotating it so the text is facing upward, then going with variable layer height? John
  14. Hmmm... Can ask this question a different way? What accuracy SHOULD I expect from a UMO, 0.3 nozzle running with the GT2 belt conversion? Thanks! John
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