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JohnInOttawa

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JohnInOttawa last won the day on October 11 2020

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  1. Great tips! Has anyone tried to print the print core frame yet? I have refurbished an old core that needed a new nozzle, but its frame was also warped. Debating about options there. Thanks again! John
  2. Thanks @geert_2. Your response makes perfect sense to me. My default is metal for the same reasons as you cite. I just thought, maybe I am being old fashioned. But given the consequences of a step giving way, I think maybe old fashion is best. I will look at rivet options. The nuts and bolts would probably be strong enough, but I am trying to have one flush surface and would rather not have to thicken the metal for a countersink or counterbore. Much appreciated! John
  3. Good morning everyone. This morning I am working on some brackets to hold pre-fabricated aluminum stair treads. The treads are pre-drilled to mount on brackets made from aluminum 'T' extrusions, wall thickess may be 1/8" or 3/16", but the brackets are welded to beams at an angle I can't use, so I have to make my own. I was about to hire a Tig welder to make up a set of brackets, likely out of 6061 angle, but the price is rapidly spiralling. These brackets are small enough that I can fit two sides of the triangle on my printer. So I wonder - with all of the claims a
  4. Yes, Cura could be the problem, as could the the firmware, as could a combination of the two. I had to back my UM3X to firmware 4.3.3 and run Cura 4.6. Not the latest, but stable. later firmware and I had extrusion problems much as you describe. The fact that your Gcode test file ran though, suggests you should start with Cura. Bad firmware would likely not have allowed a good test print. Good luck!
  5. 4.3.3 is a known stable firmware release, so I doubt that is the issue. Are you using auto-levelling? Any chance that filament has had a lot of retractions recently, maybe a chewed area from feeder grinding within the first metre or so? Usually when I get a nozzle clog or something like that, I find that flattening and the filament will stop feeding at that point, even after I clear the clog. Just also would like to know which Cura version you sliced your model with. (assuming you used cura). This is a good community. I'm confident someone (as in someone sm
  6. Can you provide a bit more information? Firmware - did you recently update? What is your current firmware level? UM3 or 3X Print material, if it is PLA or nylon, when was it last dried? printcore nozzle diameter? When was the last time you did a printcore cleaning? J
  7. I'd like to know more about the titanium choice as well. At this point, my guess is less warping of the build plate when heated when compared to Aluminum. I seem to recall plate flatness at temperature was a a factor when the S5 abandoned the option. Maybe they should have tried another metal. From the interweb, coefficient of expansion for Titanium: Coefficient of Linear Thermal Expansion – 8.6 x 10-6 K-1 (this is a little lower than steel but half that of aluminum)
  8. This concern has been coming up in other settings. At the risk of a repeated or cross-post - I understand that Ultimaker wants to continue to innovate and move ahead and there are only so many resources, so maintaining legacy printers may not be possible. Looking to the aviation world, older designs like the DeHavilland Twin Otter and Convair 580 are now built, rebuilt and new parts manufactured under licence. The OEM no longer has an involvement, but end users have full support. Given how successful the Ultimaker line has been to date, would Ultimaker cons
  9. Yes it is an interesting setup on the heat block and nozzle. Normally when a machine screw joins two parts, the first part is not threaded, just the 'destination' part, so the screw pulls the parts together and doesn't end up jacking them apart. The Ultimaker design with threads in both the heat block and the heat break requires that the heat block be fully threaded onto the nozzle first (fully torqued), which effectively makes that one assembly. Then the heat break can be threaded on in a single assembly step without fear of the two parts working against one another. This can b
  10. If it doesn't leak and you get autolevel to calibrate then you're good to go. WRT increased torque to set the new nozzle. A few things that I found really reduced the torque for my MicroSwiss install. 1) when the old nozzle is removed, carefully clean the threads inside the heat break and heat block as thoroughly as possible. Also, the very top of the nozzle seats against an internal brass lip in the heat break. Cleaning that as well will also help make a better seal. 2) If you reassemble in two stages, you can first freeze the nozzle and warm the heat bl
  11. I had something like this on my 'rescue' UM3X. It turned out to be wiring from the capacitive sensor and axial fan were out of position and interfering at the back. I've also had a certain amount of trouble with a print core whose frame had warped over time. A pic of the open cavity without the print cores installed might help.
  12. @UlrichC-DE, it looks like two solutions to the same question on different threads. Have a look at the link above, it is not necessary to modify the heat block, but there is a particular order of reassembly to both fully seat the nozzle in the heat block and get a tight seal on the cooling tower. Agree completely with your warnings...in my opinion this should be the last option before throwing a core out, as there is a good chance it will come to that anyway. John
  13. Is this a repeat of your question, posted here? If so, Maybe ask admin to merge them, much easier to compare solutions that way.
  14. A bit late to the party. I suggest a read of this thread. I've done this with a MicroSwiss nozzle. All of the warnings about why it is a bad idea are valid. It can be done but with great care not to destroy the threads, the heat break, or the print core frame. The torque involved is small and precise. Too little, you will leak, too much and you'll destroy the core. The steps I followed are detailed in the thread. Prints with the new nozzle are identical to the OEM but the print core frame appears to deform with heat over time and will ultimately decide end of
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