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JohnInOttawa

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JohnInOttawa last won the day on October 11 2020

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  1. Hmmm. That seems annoying. If it also happened with the old print core and another filament type, I would go out on a limb and say the issue is external to both the print core and the filament. Back to that cooling fan. There are degraded modes that do not involve the fan being completely stopped. If it were me I'd be looking at that fan with magnification to see if anything is interfering with airflow or rotation. I recently pulled nearly 30 cm of wound, hair fine filament from around my cooling fan. There are two ways I might go about removing this print core. One at a t
  2. While @Smithy has given you the best advice, if you elect to attempt this, you will need specific nozzles made for the UM3/S3/S5 print core. I bought ones made by MicroSwiss. The rest of the caveats are in my TL:DR post a bit higher in the thread. My print core is working well with no leaks and I find the print quality pretty much indistinguishable from my unaltered OEM cores, however the plastic frame is a significant factor, heat seems to deform it over a long period, such that it's more difficult to install and remove. If I could replace that frame, I would. Go
  3. Hi Sina. I'm running some jobs with regular materials and print cores for the next while so won't have much chance to get photos. The good news is that the changes I made (which I learned about here, there are a number of related threads) are very much off the shelf. Bondtech and 3D Solex have resellers in many places. I went with the Bondtech DDG, which is a straight swap for the UM3 extruders. 10 minute job. The hardcores can be ordered with an everlast nozzle already installed. Where are you located?
  4. The warning on the quick demise of brass print cores and feeders should be heeded. I bought a used UM3 that had (i understood) about half a kilo of Nylon/CF through it. Print core and #1 feeder heavily worn. AA 0.4 was already at 0.6 and visibly shorter and flatter tipped than spec. The feeder was already worn to the point of slipping and mishandling retractions. There is a solution though. Both of my UM3's now run Bondtech feeders (hardened and replaceable drive gears) and I use 3dSolex hardcores when printing abrasive stuff. Not a cheap upgrade but way less tha
  5. If you have a heat gun with a narrow nozzle and can shield the print core frame so it doesn't warp, you can focus on the nozzle area and gradually work outward. It looks from your photos as if you did not get much material on the heater or sensor cables. That is a win. If it is mostly on the heat block, slow and steady, you should manage to get everything off. John
  6. I haven't used Timberfill, and my printer is a UM3, not S5, but have printed a fair bit with Colorfabb Woodfill which might be similar. Bigger nozzle size is definitely needed for the particulates. If Timberfill is recommending 0.6, then it's likely not related to 2.85 vs 1.75, it's because smaller nozzles can block. I think your choices in the UM line would be an AA 0.8 or a CC Red 0.6, in my case I went with a 3DSolex Hardcore and put a 0.6 in it. I'd also pay attention to retraction settings, particularly retraction distance and maximum number of retractions.
  7. So if I understand it fully then, you have two primary issues: 1) Firmware is at 5.xx.xx and likely needs to be flashed back to 4.3.3 and 2) You are missing the capacitive sensor cable. The cable is a part that can be ordered from a reseller. They are not expensive and do not require any soldering, you only need the ultimaker screwdriver to install the part. Availability varies by region though. Where are you located? John
  8. Just a thought here. Since you mentioned both Ultimaker 3 extended AND firmware update, I thought you might find the following threads helpful. I tried everything with both 5.xx firmware levels, also changed the capacitive sensor cable, did not work, I had to revert to 4.3.3 as recommended in the thread, normal operations.
  9. Thanks! the variable temp adjuster makes some sense. The advance mechanism will likely be the money part of the thing. I'll look for those brands. All the best! John
  10. I've read some of the threads here on 3D pens. In my region, it seems everything offered is more toy than tool, so my hope is that within this group someone can help get me sorted. I've seen plenty of options that handle PLA, or PLA and ABS. Most of these also have reviews that include things like 'broke on the third try'. I don't know if any options handle semi-rigid options like TPU, perhaps that is a function of the 1.75mm filaments used (I find 2.85 plenty robust in the Cheetah line). My application is a custom retaining ring for a clear acrylic face 'crystal' wi
  11. This is great! The layer line advice is good. Fortunately the level of detail is low so I can smooth aggressively. I am looking at potentially just getting some polysmooth filament and manually treating it with isopropyl. Haven't used it before, so maybe overthinking things a bit. With a wind chill below -20 these days, the notion of anything generating heat gets me excited, but I will heed this warning 😉 John
  12. OK. This sounds like the wisest plan. I've been looking for an excuse to try mold making. Looks like I found it 😉 Now a bit of homework for me.... Thanks again! John
  13. Those are all good considerations. I am wondering if a mold is the right solution here as well. One aspect I had not considered when I posted originally is that the air gaps present in normal FDM printing can defeat any intrinsic insulating qualities in the filament itself and can contribute to shock hazard around higher voltages. This VARIAC can increase output voltage above the source value and is rated over 500V so to your point, maybe I need to weigh what the original designers considered and go with their solution too. J
  14. Thank you @Torgeir. It's too bad there is so much distance. It would be good to be able to chat about some of this, and a number of other areas of your clear expertise. You'll clearly understand the background behind my question. My imager is uncooled, a Fluke TI32, 7.5 μm to 14 μm, so toward the long end of medium wave. While I can certainly treat the glass to enhance emissivity with a matte finish, my hope was to try to use an in-service material, like a PVA coating, to do this. Mostly because I am too lazy to have to remove and retreat the surface afterward 😉 , but also be
  15. Could I ask two (hopefully) related questions regarding troubleshooting the heated bed? a) I'm assuming the only correct way to validate the heated bed temperature is independently, ideally via thermal imager or IR thermometer. Is there a recommended surface treatment - i.e. PVA glue stick? I know glass is opaque in the wavelength range of these uncooled IR sensors, but as a smooth, specular surface it would still be prone to reflection errors. Would a matte glue finish be better? b) In the event one does find a delta (cold or hot), is there any way to correct this
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