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Everything posted by JohnInOttawa

  1. nallath, thank you for your great response! It's always the same with making and innovation - there is the curve of what is possible and another curve of what is practical. The challenge is finding where the curves intersect. ( In my case, it's often not curves, but scatter plots, but perhaps that is another thread ;-)) The wear-out from retraction is something I hadn't considered. I can see the attempt to run multi-colours on one layer as a bad corner case. What I was thinking about was more along the lines of permitting a two - material print that also needed support. If running a BB core in position 2, the only real option to do this is permit material change on the fly. How to do that without grinding up filament might require a combination of user awareness and Cura smarts. The custom color option - I see a possible interface with a technology like Mosaic. I'm likely dreaming in technicolor here (pun intended), but having multi-spools in a controlled environment and ready between prints would sure be nice and elegant with a system like that in use. I guess the essential message is that this announcement is both a step in its own right, and a platform for future steps. While we are in the dreamscape, now that you have a captive material handler, how about a print core that can handle continuous kevlar, glass or carbon fibre like a certain stateside offering? 😉 What a world beater that would be. Thanks again for supporting this discussion. Greatly appreciated! Cheers John
  2. Didn't really have the control interface understood. Thanks! John
  3. I like the material station for what it allows, now, but perhaps more importantly, next steps. I'm not clear on a few things, so permit me to ask a few questions that might already have answers (but I can't find). 1) I can see that the material handler works with NFC coded spools. How does it work with generic materials? 2) I can see that the material handler will automatically find a new spool of the same material when the first spool is exhausted. How big a leap would it be to allow material switching (to another color or even material type) mid job, something akin to a CNC automatic tool changer? To me, this would be reason enough to buy the S5 pro bundle 3) next steps - leveraging the automated material handler and the print core technology, what prevents Ultimaker, in perhaps the next design cycle, from creating a filament color customizer, where several spools feed a integrator, either at the print core or upstream of it? Thanks in advance for your thoughts. John
  4. Thanks! That sounds like a good approach to me. I might print off the original in a wax in that case, maybe make a 'lost wax' mold and use the clear resin as you suggest. Much appreciated. John
  5. Good morning everyone. I have been asked to support an application (impeller) that will have a high rotation speed and clearly also pressure increase per function. This is an experiment so vane design will be a function of safe RPM. I have input to that value. My first inclination was to say that FDM would not be able to achieve either the strength or weight balance required for anything more than very slow rotation. Then I thought, why guess, when I can ask here?? Has anyone successfully created high speed rotating parts with their Ultimaker (3)? If so, could you share what worked, what didn't, and advice on materials, safe limits on part size, RPM, etc? Thanks in advance! John
  6. That is true, I should have been clearer and divided the discussion or renamed it 'heat treating'. That said, what are folks using to address heat treating needs and how do those options change across the range of filaments? John
  7. good morning! Thanks for your replies. To clarify, I'd like to be able to sinter anything that can be improved with this phase. I understand that certain PLAs respond well, all the way up to metal binders. My understanding has been that, once one gets into the really high end metal 'binders' like the BASF Ultrafuse, post processing is really beyond the grasp of the general public, but my hope is to find out what is and is not practical, in the opinion of the members here. Much appreciated. John
  8. Good morning. I thought I would place this topic in materials as some of the newer ones (such as the BASF Ultrafuse) seem to be meant for sintering in order to achieve their specification. I have pretty much assumed that use of the family oven for sintering polymers is probably a recipe for a multi-level nightmare, so then what works? I have equally assumed that something small like a toaster oven would have a heating element far too close to the material and local hot spots would likely be too much. What have you tried and how did it go? Thanks in advance! John
  9. Good morning. I haven't tried a 0.8 nozzle in my UM3 so don't know if that is a factor. I would suggest matching all of the printing speeds. I can't tell if you have wall before infill, that might help. I'm also not sure if the line width and wall thicknesses line up. What does the Cura layer print show you for the UM3 configuration? Do any of these patterns show up? Not sure if the attached thread and its link might help. Cheers John
  10. I've printed a number of parts using woodfill and copperfil. I would not try this on a BB core. Indeed, once you get to 0.4 and below on an AA core, the printer needs to be monitored for clogging. I do like the results though! The way solids are suspended in the filament makes both of them somewhat prone to clogging if your print involves retraction. I have run them in a hardcore (AA) down to 0.25 nozzle, but that works for short duration prints only, after which I have to do both hot and cold pulls to clear things out. I'm not sure it would be possible to clear out a BB nozzle without doing harm to it. This thread is related, I hope this helps. Have fun John
  11. Good evening everyone. It's been a while, this has continued to be a busy place. I'm aware of an individual in the Greater Toronto Area who needs help with an S5 they have inherited. I believe their intention is to sell the printer, however as they weren't the primary user, they need someone knowledgable to verify things are in working order and assist with a demo for sale. I think funds are pretty tight, so this 'ask' is for volunteers. Unfortunately I am about 200 miles too far away to help in person, but I hope I can at least forge a link. Anyone interested, please PM me. Thanks in advance. John
  12. Great thread! I would be curious to know how closely these expansion parameters transfer to the UM3. I would like to dial dimensional tolerance in a bit better there as well. Thanks John
  13. Looks like this printer is in Canada, where abouts is it located? Thanks! John
  14. Hmmm. I'll try to print this when I am next at the printer. Sadly that is an unknown at this point. One thought in the mean time. I notice that your walls are one layer thick. Have you tried doubling that? At the same time, you might want to reduce your line width to 0.35. It almost appears as if the printer thinks your lines are wider than they truly are. Under the infill options, I notice you have some bigger expansion numbers than I've ever worked with, probably in an effort to fill in those gaps. But I also note your skin removal width is your line width. I'd suggest cutting that back to 0.1. I'd also suggest reducing the infill wipe distance to 0. Good luck! John
  15. Can you verify if this is an Ultimaker printer or, if another type, what type? That might help decide if this is a coasting setting, extrusion issue, or something mechanical like a drive system skipping steps somewhere. I can't tell looking at the picture how the overlap is working at the opposite side. It almost looks like things misalign too much the other way. Also, would you be able to share your print material, temperature and speeds? Thanks John
  16. Without knowing anything about your part geometry, is there any possibility of rotating it so the text is facing upward, then going with variable layer height? John
  17. Hmmm... Can ask this question a different way? What accuracy SHOULD I expect from a UMO, 0.3 nozzle running with the GT2 belt conversion? Thanks! John
  18. I know a lot has been said about dimensional accuracy already, the solutions seem to vary somewhat by printer. Here's my issue: I am upgrading my UMO to TMC2100. Just before I swap out the drivers, I want to establish a baseline, in case something goes wrong, I at least have a reference. I'm printing a 20x20x20mm cube. Dimensions without any adjustment are 19.78 x 19.80 x 19.79. Small in all dimensions. 0.3 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, 0.25 line width, adjusted for print quality with this filament (eSun PLA), so I would rather not tweak that further. I can adjust horizontal expansion, but I am still short in Z. My next thought will be to print a cube with vertical and lateral holes through it, but I thought I should dial this in first. Thanks in advance! John
  19. I know this thread is getting very old, but I will finally be installing TMC2100 on my UMO today. I will change X, Y and hopefully Z but will leave the extruder alone for now. I can do everything in this (excellent!) thread, except adjust Z steps/mm to 1066.6666. As my leadscrew is not for the heated bed and I am not certain it is original ( I bought this second hand) I may just have to write down the existing number and double it. I'm trying to use the online firmware maker here https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ I see the discussion above on modifying this with GCode, but as I seldom work at that level, would appreciate the syntax for setting, then saving the new steps/mm @gr5, would you be in a position to share this? Thanks! John
  20. Hmmm... I have an endurance laser and a UMO as well as a UM3. Im not sure I would want to hang a laser with that mass from those cross bars. Especially on something as pricey as an S5. It might work software wise but mechanically, as I say, hmmmmm. In my case I am going to mount it on a modified prusa design with a beefed up cross section and put an additional bracket on my gantry CNC for larger work. But in both cases the cross bar is either beefy extrusion (3d kit) or reinforced plate (CNC) John
  21. @ScienceDude you might find this thread of relevance. I found woodfill slightly less prone to clogging than copperfill. @SandervG has, I believe, made a relevant comment when discussing fibre enhanced filaments that may well apply to wood fill, and that is that a lot of retractions may contribute to clogging as the fibres or particles can realign crossways to the flow inside the nozzle at the orifice. I just had a job fail with that exact scenario, the first indication was intermittent extruder stalling and then layer quality degraded. I hope this is of some help.. Best of luck. Cheers John
  22. This thread should be a sticky - it's a great reference for that filament. Thank you for sharing. Cheers John
  23. Good morning everyone. I suspect this question has been asked and answered in various forms but I'm just not finding it today. Here's the idea: On my CNC (Gcode driven of course), programming tool changes is routine. These can be implemented without an automatic tool changer, the machine goes to safe and waits for the operator to advise when ready to proceed (after the tool change is complete). In my software (Mach3), you can change the tool, reset zero and move the gantry position if needed (to the zero reference), and when you hit the continue prompt, the machine returns to the correct position at safe, then descends and continues the job with the correct bit. Soooo, let's say I want to run a 3 color job on my UM3, for example a name plate background in black, with two colors (say red and white) embossing a logo on top. I only need black up to the point I am going to start with color so there would be no overlap (but I would need to get the exact layer correct). I'm aware of 'Pause at height' but the last I heard about that feature it was not working correctly and it was unclear to me if one could combine pause at height with a filament change and get good results. Maybe there is a plugin somehere? Thanks in advance! John
  24. Thanks for the verification @PaulK and @SandervG! Best wishes to you and yours in 2019! John
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