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JohnInOttawa

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Everything posted by JohnInOttawa

  1. That is a first for me as well. Just as a hypothesis - I can see a couple of scenarios here that might have the potential to trigger an unexpected print. I have two different computers (laptop and desktop) that I use Cura on, both on the same network as my UM3's. I have accidentally suspended operations on the laptop by closing the lid too early, only to have them resume when it opened. If there was an upload suspended at an opportune time, maybe it would resume? I have also had uploads that hung up during a session on the desktop, only to try and complete the next time I restarted Cura. Maybe either case, or a combination of events, might trigger an upload to Cura of what looks like an old job, when it's a fresh upload of an old Cura session instead. I know it is far fetched, but I prefer that version to the thought that my printer has become self-aware. That reminds me, I should unplug those things.... J
  2. I would love to hear the rumour about a drop in core, bowden and feeder mod to handle continuous fibre. The print core concept can do so much more. John
  3. Thanks for your suggestions. I'll try the tag search. John
  4. I was looking for a thread on a UMO from some time back and realised, this topic covers all types, so is starting to look a lot like my sock drawer ;-). The family is now large, with variants of the UMO/UMO+, UM2/UM2+, UM2Go, UM3, S5 and now S3. Some subjects pertain to all types, while others (like material or air manage or print core issues) would not. Would it make sense to subdivide in some way? John
  5. Thanks! I did consider coating but have experience with coatings flaking off as they degrade. The molding route would work, but I'm not set up to do that. My fall back option will be to extend the cloth far enough that no part of the lid can shed into the jar's interior. I'll just have to back off the threads enough to make room for the cloth. Thanks again! John
  6. I'm considering 3d printing some lids for jars. The lids don't have to be airtight or watertight, will really just hold cloth in suspension to keep dust out of a solution that needs air but not dust exposure for a period of time. My issue is with the 3dprinted part itself. I have seen some filaments deteriorate over time and leave dust. I'd like the lid to shed as little dust as possible. I'l thinking something like T-Glase might work, but honestly, that's just a guess. What's the best option here? Thanks in advance! John
  7. I don't think I made any further changes than what's noted already. Since I used Ultimaker nylon as support I used stock settings for it, and then the temperature and print bed changes as discussed. And of course closing up the print chamber to keep the heat in. Would be interested in hearing your experience with the SAC 1060. J
  8. I found the best results were with using a different colour of nylon as support material instead of PVA. I suspect an issue was that the nylon printed too hot to work well with soluble support. For the project I mentioned then, I had the 910 printing the plate flat with a lot of brim, then black Ultimaker nylon used for support inside the barrel and no fans running. The support came out fine and I just reamed out the barrel lightly to get it to final shape and tolerance. I'm happy with this stuff and it is really, really strong. I've also run a hybrid model with the Taulman 910 as the skin and Nylforce inside for strength. Bonding is not great between the two so I have to arrange a mechanical linkage in the model. Cheers J
  9. OK! I see the references to a new feeder cover in order to fit into the case following the UM2 extrusion upgrade. I presume I would have to change the cover if I used the UM3 Feeder as well? If I keep the original stepper but change the extruder, I presume I will have to change steps per mm to something different from the original but not the same as the full switch out. Is there a method to determine the correct value? Thanks again! John
  10. That's a good question - I upgraded my feeders on the UM3 specifically so I could print abrasive materials. The original UM3 feeders are not hardened like they are on the S5. The Bondtec feeders are. I also invested in two 3dSolex Hardcores with ruby/sapphire tips. It's worked pretty well - a couple of things that needed to change and a bit of learning, but certainly a cost effective change. Cheers J
  11. This is a great thread! A new (to us) UM2Go just joined the family and upgrades are next on the list. Looking at the UM2+ extrusion upgrade kit. prompts a question. I upgraded the feeders on my UM3 to Bondtec so have two original low time UM3 feeders sitting in a box. Is the original UM3 feeder the same part as the one in the UM2+ extrusion upgrade kit? If so, is it then just a matter of getting the correct stepper motor (and firmware change) to complete the feeder upgrade? Thanks! John
  12. I bought a used UM3 a couple of years ago, I can share what I looked at, disclaimer, it was my first UM3 so I may not have caught all that I should, but printer has worked fine, so here goes. 1) If it old enough not to have the NFC holder, then what color are the sliding blocks? They should be black, not white. there was a recall on early versions of these for cracking, replaced free (I believe) by Ultimaker. Not sure if that would apply in this case. 2) Check the hours. If they are high enough, you might obviate the first concern as you'd want to replace belts and blocks anyway. 3) Print cores. These don't last forever. I'd check the underside wiring, the insulating coating can wear through from occasional rubbing over a long time. 4) Abrasive material usage - both feeders and nozzles take a beating from this stuff. Original UM feeders are too soft for stuff like nylon/CF and the UM print cores except for CC red will wear out very quickly. I bought two 3dSolex Hardcores and put in abrasive nozzles, I've had no issues except for the occasional trouble with autolevelling. Likewise, Bondtec hardened feeders, pretty easy retrofit. 5) silcone nozzle shield - this is a consumable, mine only came to me with the one that was installed and it needed changing. 6) Firmware! The older printer may or may not be at the current level. I've run across a number of reports where someone tested a printer with the existing (obsolete) firmware, bought it, brought it home, then did the upgrade and effectively bricked it. If the seller can bring the printer up to standard before you see it, that is a potential problem pre-solved. That's all I've got. Good luck! John
  13. Excellent! Thanks. I'll check that out. My issue was indeed an open solder connection due to the V1.3 mod. This was the video that helped me out, in case someone else hits this issue. I have not put my voltages as high as recommended, yet, so far things seem to be tracking OK.
  14. Thank you! I have been wondering about doing that configuration. Nice to have your feedback that it would work OK. I have been doing some searching and suspect that, despite my beliefs to the contrary, I may have the infamous 'White V1.3' Fysetc units. If so, then I have some soldering and a retest to do tomorrow. Your addition of a bondtec to the UMO sounds interesting. Which Bondtec model did you go with? I did not know this could be done on the UMO. Defintely something I would look into. Thanks again! John
  15. I know this is a very old topic - but I finally got around to installing these on my UMO (no heated bed). I think I have followed the instructions on this thread, and things are indeed quieter. Because I had the time, I installed all 4 of them. X and Y are certainly quieter but with all sorts of layer shift starting at about layer 3, Z is quieter but for some reason Z no longer homes correctly and the extruder is underextruding and eventually not extruding at all. I tried with the Vref all the way down at 0.8, got the layer shifting right there, and have been increasing it slowly, really not seeing any improvement, now at 1.1. I assume I am shortly (if not already), going to experience overvoltage heat issues. I also note that the shift follows a rapid move and Trinamic has a video recommending reduced acceleration rates. Could this be a fix and, if so, how far do I need to cut back on acceleration from default settings? The extruder is a whole other thing. The retractions sound awful and then eventually stop. I am reducing voltage, will continue to do so, but the next step will be to revert back to the old driver. The noise was not that great to begin with and it's that I am targetting. Z axis - the previous owner may have changed the lead screw (unable to verify), so I am wondering if my steps are wrong. In any event, the previous driver and steps at 533.3 homed correctly. Now, with 1066.6, homing causes the build plate to rise, hit the limit, back off, then rise and hit the limit again. I would have thought that homing would have an offset from the point the limit is reached, so I am wondering if there is a discrepancy between where the machine thinks that bed is and where it is in reality. I guess I may be into a process to measure the correct steps/mm on Z. As my primary is a UM3 and is happily ticking along, getting the UMO back is more of a wish than a need. These are authentic chips bought from a reputable source, so I am pretty sure it's something I'm doing wrong. Any and all advice gratefully accepted. Thanks! John
  16. I thought I might float this topic, as there are just too many times now when I find myself asking why the original UM2Go was discontinued. Right now, with so many students displaced, the demand for something capable and portable just seems to be skyrocketing and this little printer would be perfect. But, since it HAS been discontinued, I thought, Hm. Could the UM2Go be reintroduced with the same size, but with a heated glass bed and dual extruders so it could print dissolvable or breakaway supports? (I don't know if this would need print cores, likely that would be the fastest route to implement). I know this would add a lot of cost, but for students, it's the size and right now, they are saving a bundle on residence fees so..... Would anyone else use a UM2Go+ if it were offered?
  17. Thank you! Hope the move went well 😉 John
  18. Hello David. I was using Cheetah, I did find the newer version of Cura better, but mostly it was improved with adjusting printing orientation. Cheers John
  19. Since Cura allows for line width adjustment, it's really just a matter of specifying the correct line width for line height, temp and maybe tweaking flow rate. For PLA I can print with a 0.55 line at the temperatures I am using, for Nylon and some of the hotter printing filaments I find I need to increase the line width to avoid overextrusion. It would be better if Cura allowed user specified nozzle diameters, but for now we have to work around Cura. J
  20. I have a UM3 that I converted to permit abrasive filaments. Feeders went to Bondtec DDG (via gr5 store) and I added 3d Solex Hardcore (also from George) with a set of hardened and ruby/sapphire nozzles. I've printed a fair bit of abrasive stuff since without issue, currently using Nylforce CF and Murano, have run Copperfil in the past without issues (except for some clogging at .25 nozzle, but that was on me). The bondtec feeders work pretty well, the firmware needs a tweak after each change, as they don't use the same steps/mm as standard. WRT the 3dSolex printcores, changing nozzles has to be done EXTREMELY carefully to avoid shearing the heat break. There is some optional programming (check out gr5's related posts on this) that will reprogram the hardcore to look like an AA 0.4 to the printer, which saves having to override it each print. I run a hardcore 0.6 with some of the higher particulate filament to prevent clogging and it's been great. Good luck! John
  21. This would certainly be a great option for those who occasionally need to print metal but can't afford $100K to jump in. A couple of questions: 1) I see the spool is sold by weight, not volume or length. I would think 3kg of stainless steel is a lot less filament than 2 kg of PLA. Is there a measurement in terms of m^3 or length (2.85mm) per spool? 2) Does this material need special storage/drying before use? 3) I am just setting up for the XStrand learning curve, the 316L is more than 4 times the price, so would appreciate knowing how to dial settings in sooner rather than later. Thanks to the pioneers! J
  22. Thank you! Does the print stop at that code and if so, how have you got around it? Much appreciated. John
  23. I may have found an answer, as I thought about the last line and editing G-code, which led me to post processing options where I found the experimental ChangeatZ script. Is this the recommended solution? If so, I'd appreciate thoughts on what worked or didn't with it. Cheers John
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