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JohnInOttawa

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Posts posted by JohnInOttawa


  1. Good morning everyone.  I have been asked to support an application (impeller) that will have a high rotation speed and clearly also pressure increase per function.

     

    This is an experiment so vane design will be a function of safe RPM.  I have input to that value.

     

    My first inclination was to say that FDM would not be able to achieve either the strength or weight balance required for anything more than very slow rotation.  Then I thought, why guess, when I can ask here??

     

    Has anyone successfully created high speed rotating parts with their Ultimaker (3)?  If so, could you share what worked, what didn't, and advice on materials, safe limits on part size, RPM, etc?

     

    Thanks in advance!

    John


  2. That is true, I should have been clearer and divided the discussion or renamed it 'heat treating'. 

     

    That said, what are folks using to address heat treating needs and how do those options change across the range of filaments?

     

    John


  3. good morning!  Thanks for your replies.  To clarify, I'd like to be able to sinter anything that can be improved with this phase.  I understand that certain PLAs respond well, all the way up to metal binders.

     

    My understanding has been that, once one gets into the really high end metal 'binders' like the BASF Ultrafuse, post processing is really beyond the grasp of the general public, but my hope is to find out what is and is not practical, in the opinion of the members here.

     

    Much appreciated.

     

    John


  4. Good morning.  I thought I would place this topic in materials as some of the newer ones (such as the BASF Ultrafuse) seem to be meant for sintering in order to achieve their specification.

     

    I have pretty much assumed that use of the family oven for sintering polymers is probably a recipe for a multi-level nightmare, so then what works?  I have equally assumed that something small like a toaster oven would have a heating element far too close to the material and local hot spots would likely be too much.

     

    What have you tried and how did it go?

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    John


  5. Good morning. 

     

    I haven't tried a 0.8 nozzle in my UM3 so don't know if that is a factor.  I would suggest matching all of the printing speeds.  I can't tell if you have wall before infill, that might help.  I'm also not sure if the line width and wall thicknesses line up.  What does the Cura layer print show you for the UM3 configuration?  Do any of these patterns show up?

     

    Not sure if the attached thread and its link might help.

     

    Cheers

    John


  6. I've printed a number of parts using woodfill and copperfil.  I would not try this on a BB core.  Indeed, once you get to 0.4 and below on an AA core, the printer needs to be monitored for clogging.  I do like the results though!

     

    The way solids are suspended in the filament makes both of them somewhat prone to clogging if your print involves retraction.  I have run them in a hardcore (AA) down to 0.25 nozzle, but that works for short duration prints only, after which I have to do both hot and cold pulls to clear things out.  I'm not sure it would be possible to clear out a BB nozzle without doing harm to it.

     

    This thread is related, I hope this helps.

     

     

     Have fun

     

    John


  7. Good evening everyone.  It's been a while, this has continued to be a busy place.

     

    I'm aware of an individual in the Greater Toronto Area who needs help with an S5 they have inherited.  I believe their intention is to sell the printer, however as they weren't the primary user, they need someone knowledgable to verify things are in working order and assist with a demo for sale.  I think funds are pretty tight, so this 'ask' is for volunteers.  Unfortunately I am about 200 miles too far away to help in person, but I hope I can at least forge a link.

     

    Anyone interested, please PM me.  Thanks in advance.

     

    John


  8. Hmmm.  I'll try to print this when I am next at the printer.  Sadly that is an unknown at this point.

     

    One thought in the mean time.  I notice that your walls are one layer thick.  Have you tried doubling that?  At the same time, you might want to reduce your line width to 0.35.  It almost appears as if the printer thinks your lines are wider than they truly are.

     

    Under the infill options, I notice you have some bigger expansion numbers than I've ever worked with, probably in an effort to fill in those gaps.  But I also note your skin removal width is your line width.  I'd suggest cutting that back to 0.1.    I'd also suggest reducing the infill wipe distance to 0.

     

    Good luck!

    John


  9. Can you verify if this is an Ultimaker printer or, if another type, what type?  That might help decide if this is a coasting setting, extrusion issue, or something mechanical like a drive system skipping steps somewhere.

     

    I can't tell looking at the picture how the overlap is working at the opposite side.  It almost looks like things misalign too much the other way.

     

    Also, would you be able to share your print material, temperature and speeds? 

     

    Thanks

    John


  10. I know a lot has been said about dimensional accuracy already, the solutions seem to vary somewhat by printer.  Here's my issue:

    I am upgrading my UMO to TMC2100.  Just before I swap out the drivers, I want to establish a baseline, in case something goes wrong, I at least have a reference.

     

    I'm printing a 20x20x20mm cube.  Dimensions without any adjustment are 19.78 x 19.80 x 19.79.  Small in all dimensions.  0.3 nozzle, 0.2 layer height, 0.25 line width, adjusted for print quality with this filament (eSun PLA), so I would rather not tweak that further.  I can adjust horizontal expansion, but I am still short in Z.

     

    My next thought will be to print a cube with vertical and lateral holes through it, but I thought I should dial this in first.

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    John


  11. I know this thread is getting very old, but I will finally be installing TMC2100 on my UMO today.  I will change X, Y and hopefully Z but will leave the extruder alone for now.   I can do everything in this (excellent!) thread, except adjust Z steps/mm  to  1066.6666.  As my leadscrew is not for the heated bed and I am not certain it is original ( I bought this second hand) I may just have to write down the existing number and double it.

    I'm trying to use the online firmware maker here https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/

     

    I see the discussion above on modifying this with GCode, but as I seldom work at that level, would appreciate the syntax for setting, then saving the new steps/mm  @gr5, would you be in a position to share this?

     

    Thanks!

    John


  12. Hmmm...  I have an endurance laser and a UMO as well as a UM3.  Im not sure I would want to hang a laser with that mass from those cross bars.  Especially on something as pricey as an S5.  It might work software wise but mechanically, as I say, hmmmmm.

     

    In my case I am going to mount it on a modified prusa design with a beefed up cross section and put an additional bracket on my gantry CNC for larger work.  But in both cases the cross bar is either beefy extrusion (3d kit) or reinforced plate (CNC)

     

    John


  13. @ScienceDude you might find this thread of relevance.  I found woodfill slightly less prone to clogging than copperfill.

     

     

    @SandervG has, I believe, made a relevant comment when discussing fibre enhanced filaments that may well apply to wood fill, and that is that a lot of retractions may contribute to clogging as the fibres or particles can realign crossways to the flow inside the nozzle at the orifice.  I just had a job fail with that exact scenario, the first indication was intermittent extruder stalling and then layer quality degraded.

     

    I hope this is of some help..  Best of luck.

     

    Cheers

    John


  14. Good morning everyone.  I suspect this question has been asked and answered in various forms but I'm just not finding it today.

     

    Here's the idea:

    On my CNC (Gcode driven of course), programming tool changes is routine.  These can be implemented without an automatic tool changer, the machine goes to safe and waits for the operator to advise when ready to proceed (after the tool change is complete).  In my software (Mach3), you can change the tool, reset zero and move the gantry position if needed (to the zero reference), and when you hit the continue prompt, the machine returns to the correct position at safe, then descends and continues the job with the correct bit.

     

    Soooo, let's say I want to run a 3 color job on my UM3, for example a name plate background in black, with two colors (say red and white) embossing a logo on top.  I only need black up to the point I am going to start with color so there would be no overlap (but I would need to get the exact layer correct).

     

    I'm aware of 'Pause at height' but the last I heard about that feature it was not working correctly and it was unclear to me if one could combine pause at height with a filament change and get good results.  Maybe there is a plugin somehere?

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    John


  15. So to be clear, the clicking happens mid travel, and not during a direction change of any kind?

     

    If it is mid travel, and once per rev, that suggests interference somewhere, two hard surfaces are contacting somehow.  Barring something sticking out and hitting something, i'd wonder if there is a rod-end bearing behind that clicking.

     

    j


  16. That's discouraging to hear that the alternate print head is encountering issues.  But at the same time, your testing methods seem robust to the point you can isolate it to the filament.  It does sound like shelf life or humidity could be factors.

     

    I have not seen anyone try to chill filament and don't know what would happen if one tried.  Certainly a refridgerator could be a low humidity environment and keeping the filament as cold as possible during print might delay softening just long enough to get the material through the 'danger zone'.  Or it could just fail.  I also don't know how rapidly the filament would warm to room temperature along the bowden tube.

     

    I have one of those electric coolers that should hold a spool.  I may have to give it a try.

     

    Maybe colorfabb can lend some expertise....

     

    John


  17. I'll be setting up for testing shortly.  Thank you for the profile.  One thing I am trying to locate in the threads is minimum nozzle size.  I know the CC red is 0.6.  Is that assumed to be the minimum nozzle diameter?  I have a potential application that would go all the way down to .25 (hardcore/everlast).  I appreciate this would be experimental.

     

    Thoughts?

    John

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