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JohnInOttawa

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Everything posted by JohnInOttawa

  1. As part of the rebuilding of this printer I noticed the wires to the capacitive sensor were frayed. The white wire in the photo was down to one strand. Replacing the wire looks to be relatively straightforward, but given the nature of this sensor, I wanted to cross check if there is a specific gauge and type of wire needed for this link. Thanks!
  2. That's a good fallback! What's your experience with autolevelling been? I haven't compared the heights of the 0.8 and 0.25 nozzles and from the hardcores I've reprogrammed (another nod here to @gr5) the only code I would think to use in this case would be AA 0.8 sendgcode M151 T0 A8 D7800000000004141 sendgcode M151 T0 A16 D20302E3800000000 Does that look familiar in your process? John
  3. I inherited some old print cores with this UM3X I am getting back into service. One of the AA 0.4 was used to print something abrasive and is worn completely out. I had another order to place anyway and was below the min free shipping threshold, so decided to add some MicroSwiss UM3 PrintCore replacement nozzles. I will attempt a swap once everything I need is in place. My expectations are low but the core is otherise in good condition and the cost to try is low. @gr5 has an excellent video on disassembly, of course that core is pretty new and not encrusted in burned on filament. I don't have George's technical knowledge or skill. (Nor do I have a wonderful pooch to cheer me on, but I digress....) I do have a (home based) machine shop with some good micro vices and precision torque gauges, so hopefully will be able to muddle through. Areas that I expect trouble with are many: 1) getting the nozzle thread to release without stripping anything (as tinkergnome correctly points out, it is not designed or promised to be unthreadable), 2) protecting the steel heat break 'thin section' from getting any torque during disassembly and again during reassembly, 3) not destroying the temp probe or heater which are probably more fragile than when they were new 4) re-threading correctly to get a good seal with sufficient torque without breaking something. I expect at least part of this effort is going to require heating the block/tower and cooling the nozzle. I don't think I will get too far with this on disassembly as everything is connected and the same material, however assuming I get everything apart without destruction, I'll use differential to get things as tight as I can without too much torque. I'll likely put the new nozzle in the freezer (or outside at -20!) for a while, then warm the tower and block with a heated brass rod to about 45C or so - I don't want to get things too hot for the print core plastic housing. I am hoping that with a chilled nozzle and clean threads I'll get things to seat all the way and get a good seal. I don't know what to expect with the PFTE liner. That might be a temporary show stopper if I find it worn out on disassembly. Depending on how good my workholding is, that consideration may or may not be relevant at that point 😉 John
  4. Depending on the design, I'd have to think collision avoidance would be a serious constraint. That said, the applications would be huge, especially in a dual extruder machine. I can imagine a drone part, fairing or aerodynamic section where something like glass or CF reinforced stiff but rough material was covered in non-planar layers of filament that could be chemically smoothed or coated with an epoxy like XTC-3D. Removing the aliasing effect of the traditional print would really change the exercise. I wonder how such a part would respond to annealing? Imagine the possibilities with the Ultrafuse metal system. Wow. Will watch this development with interest!! John
  5. Another day, another adventure with this UM3X 'rescue printer'. I think I found at least some of what was causing failures with the 0.25 printcore, the axial fan was affected by debris wrapped around the shaft. I spent an hour removing what I could get at from the outside, it is better but still intermittent. Worse when the printer is hot, which suggests to me there is still something in there that is swelling or sticking when hot. I can't see anything further without removing the fan blade. Has anyone tried this? Would rather not break the thing entirely, at least not until I have a new one on hand. Cheers John
  6. Thank you! Yes, an Ultimaker AA print core. I'll look for a needle. I think I have some on hand.
  7. Thank you! That is indeed the video. I tried a few different hot and cold pull techniques. I tried polycarbonate with pretty high heat by the time I was fed up, but I'll go back and try nylon and a twist. WRT the needle, a question there. Often when I do a pull successfully, I get two 'prongs' of filament on the very tip, I presume reflecting flow channels in the nozzle. I have always worried that pushing a needle in the orifice would damage the internal structure. Maybe a false worry? Thanks again. I'll try apply these new alternatives before I take things apart. Cheers John
  8. I was finally able to get a better look inside the core with a borescope. I wasn't able to get as far as I would have liked, but there is debris there that is resisting removal with the cleaning filament. I think what is going on now is that whatever is down there is either wedged or was baked at high temp from before and is not coming out with the cleaning filament, but rather is causing the filament to break first. Due to the small diameter of the nozzle orifice, I'm not going to be able to push the debris through. I will need to try something different.I'm wondering about a copper 'reamer'. that won't damage the steel or brass components, but am not sure if that is going to wreck the teflon liner. My other option is to risk removal of the nozzle. Having looked at the video for print core disassembly, I have the tools and a fine enough vice here that I can remove the nozzle without snapping the neck, but there are so many warning about doing this, I'd like to cross check options and techniques first. @gr5, I know you have expertise here. I'd welcome your input. Thanks in advance! John
  9. Thanks for getting back to me. I've used two full rods of cleaning filament and the shape of what I am pulling out looks pretty good. There was a lot of material caked on the outside of the nozzle from the previous owner, so I am in the process of gently removing that now. I'm not sure how hot it was printed, so will try some high temp filament next. Thanks again! John
  10. I hope this finds everyone well! I've inherited an AA 0.25 print core, I don't know what material it was printing before I got it, but it seems unable to print with Ultimaker PLA, essentially behaving as though it is clogged. I've run through cleaning filaments, hot and cold pulls several times. The filament that I do get is much finer than I am used to seeing on my other .25, so I think something is still in there. Is it possible that some of the high temp filaments aren't cleared by the cleaning filament? Thanks for your thoughts! John
  11. I know rafts are considered an obsolete technique, however the introduction of breakaway has, for me at least, revived this option for my nylon/glass and nylon/CF prints where I needed very flat and very matte on both lower and upper faces. I haven't tried polycarbonate yet, it's actually next, so I'll try that and post results. The breakaway adheres beautifully to the glass and the materials I've used to date stick to the breakaway but come away cleanly post print. If it is a must do project with one of those materials, that's my goto technique now. Wishing everyone a chance at some peace and a break from worrisome news for a while over the holidays. John
  12. Welcome back! Quite the adventure! Your artistry in this medium continues to amaze. Hopefully recovery continues! (Said selfishly!!) Thanks for continuing to inspire. John
  13. Just to add to marine3D, I looked at both options, twice, as the two UM3's arrived at different times. I still went with the DDG for the second upgrade for the reason marine3d mentioned. Despite having the UM3X stripped down for cleaning, all covers off and clear access for cabling, I considered the complexity and cost, as well as the incremental improvement I already had going from stock to DDG, and decided it was enough for me to stick with the DDG's That also offered me some interchangeability between systems, FWIW. Should be transparent, but I am trying to keep common things common where I can. J
  14. In my case, I upgraded my UM3 to bondtech DDG (set of 2 for UM3)and used Hardcore print cores with everlast nozzles of a few sizes. I have been pretty happy with the change. Nothing is ever perfect and there is a firmware change to manage (bondtech provides a software tool now), but I find the bondtech feeders slip less and I have been able to print things more easily than with the original setup, with less worry. One aspect of the hardcore is that changing nozzles must be done with care to avoid fracturing the heat break. A used Ultimaker 3X just joined the operation and it came with another hardcore, this one in need of overhaul. Based on the experience with the bondtech feeders to date, I have purchased a set for the UM3X too and hope to refurbish the hardcore shortly. Whether this is a good idea for anyone else will depend heavily on intended use. On another thread I posted using breakaway support as rafting material so I could print flat nylon/CF with the same suface texture top and bottom and without warping. That has gone very well users really like the parts and the combination of dual extrusion with abrasives is actually helping my business. The old UM3 feeders have not been run on abrasives and will be repurposed as an upgrade to a UM2Go. Probably can't use one on my UMO but exploring that possibility. I hope this helps! All the best John
  15. I printed a version of these hinges and cut a door to match. I like the design, however I find that, in my case, when the door swings open it tends to pull the hinge forward and it releases from the frame. Now in fairness, I did not go with PLA for my final, so maybe stiffness was a factor. J
  16. Not sure if this will help you. I've been printing with Nylforce CF a fair bit lately, had two parts in the past three weeks that I had to get perfectly flat, strong (brackets in moving parts) and had to have decent surface finish. No matter what I have tried on the bed, I always end up with a bit of warp, and the glass finish on one side wasn't going to work. So I tried an experiment with an old technique and a new material - a raft made of breakaway. The later cura versions allow you to limit how much breakaway you need, just the raft itself and then interface layers. Both parts came out perfectly. By that I mean the bottom and top layers look the same, nice smooth, flat matte. Zero warping. The breakaway bonds tight to the glass and hold the nylon/CF without any separation. So far, these parts seem to have great surface finish and are darn near unbreakable at the print orientation I used (that orientation is very important for this stuff - you'll see on my first part I laid it on its side to improve strength) Here's a thread that shows a part. Cheers John
  17. Thanks for listening to my suggestion! All the best John
  18. When you unload the filament, does it show any divots or signs of grinding?
  19. I've had this exact scenario. Here's the thread that got me back in business. Good luck! Let us know how it goes. John
  20. Thank you for your help! In the end, I thought I should just try it for myself. Please see the pictures below. The surface facing the raft is perfect. Matte finish, smooth, with the exception of some breakaway in pores that I have elected not to dig out. The part is perfectly flat. Maybe not an efficient use of the material, but the cleanest raft I have ever implemented. First pic is still on the print bed, second is with only one action complete, peeling off the raft and no post process. John
  21. I may have missed a discussion about this so apologies if so. I have a nylon/cf (nylforce) part I would like to print. It's not too bad for warping but I need it as flat on the bottom as I can get it. I'm using dimafix. I very recently tried breakaway for the first time and have been really pleased with its performance and it appears to adhere pretty well. So I am wondering, can I use it as a raft material to solve my warping problems while still providing a decent undersurface for my part? Part is relatively small so the cost of raft in terms of material is also small. Thanks for your thoughts! John
  22. This is great. I'll give it a try. This forum is hands down the most productive one I visit, and threads like this are why. Cheers John
  23. This is very timely. I ordered the ACR122U reader, which arrived today. I'll run this within Visual Studio Code as well. While probably off topic, as I am new to running an NFC reader, am I right to assume I have to set up a Raspberry Pi to bridge the reader to my windows desktop, or is there an easier way? A second question - when you loaded the PolyWood and overrode the tag with the 'correct ID'. I'm assuming one can only use IDs that are recognized materials in both Cura and the machine firmware? (I have a UM3 very reliably running very old firmware and a similarly old but stable Cura....) Thanks again for this initiative!
  24. Nice! Curious to know your experience with the surface after you hit it with the acetone. I assume that was to etch it for adhesive bonding. Did you see a change in gloss? J
  25. WRT minerals, we get quite a range here in Canada, likely in other countries the same, calcium, but also conductive stuff like iron. (which of course conveniently adds rust to things as it dries) My concern is really over what gets wiped down and where water goes undesired and unseen. Like George, I'm careful with water around soldering too and use alcohol around boards to clean when safe to do so (and that's not always). Not sure if this helps... J
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