Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up

JohnInOttawa

Member
  • Content Count

    233
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by JohnInOttawa

  1. I do have some IR transparent inspection ports that I may set up. The trouble with most materials that are transparent in the visual is that they are opaque in the LW IR spectrum (8-14 micrometer) used by most uncooled imagers these days, or have big transmissivity loss or variation. I haven't tested the latest polycarb sheet in my rack, might get lucky. The idea of setting up a barrier is sound, I may be able to insert the port into my shield over the lathe. I'll give it whirl, and advise. As with everything, may take some time to get it done. Along the way I appear to have discovered time travel and it is work dependent. The harder I work, it seems the further I get behind. Now, if only I can figure out why that is.... Thanks ! John
  2. Thank you for sharing this story. And what a sad indictment of a place that says to the world that it values learning above all. I have two sons in the post grad world, my eldest has told me of similar power struggles in his field (music). My background is about as artistic as a wrench. When we get into disagreements, it is funny for outsiders to watch, as we have jurassic social skills when it comes to dealing with units that require oxygen. That said, it has been my experience that, when those in the arts decide to fight, they are almost too skilled at administering life-changing lacerations to the psyche of their foe. Good on you for keeping your art alive. And for bringing it here. Our gain. All the best John
  3. I hope you live close to a place of education. The contribution you can make goes so far beyond this forum. What I see here (and it's just a slice) goes beyond integration of media. It's a new art form. Thanks for the inspiration. Now time for me to go back printing mechanical parts. I feel like a private pilot watching an Airbus fly over and thinking, 'wow, imagine...' J
  4. This is all great information, thank you everyone. I'm thinking what I will do next is print off a test part in each of the several materials I have on hand (PLA, Nylon, CF/Nylon), set up a good shield and record the trials. Just to keep things managable I'll run it all on a Taig micro lathe. If the debris wasn't such a concern for the lense, I'd put a thermal imager on it to see what the heat buildup looks like. Maybe I'll be able to fit an IR window into the shield or get a shot right after the run to see. I'll see if I can post results here. Much appreciated! John
  5. Heat would definitely be a factor. I'm not sure if there would be positive effects or net negative. But something would be affected. I would use a metal lathe, so a carbide bit. I also thought that would give me finer control on cutting depth per pass. Small test, good idea. and a good shield. J
  6. So I have a print job that will involve concentric fit. I need it pretty close and very round. My first thought was, dimension it for lathing afterwards. Of course, that really begs the question, can a 3D printed part (PLA, nylon, or nylon/CF) withstand the stresses of even a low speed lathe? My hope is yes for at least the PLA and nylon. I would rather not have to rig the HEPA recovery for the CF dust. Thanks in advance. J
  7. Just checking back on this. As it turns out I have to embed some nuts in a print to accept machine screws. It would sure be nice to be able to use this feature. If pressed I can load a spool of identical filament into feeder 2 (UM3) and jump on it when the printer primes the second print core, but that seems dodgy to me.... Any updates and advice welcome John
  8. That is incredible work on all of these pieces. For a lot of people, a 3D printer is a great way to get something made, but this is a whole other level. It's like comparing someone who plays a piano competently to an artist who just brings it to life. There are nuances that just make all the difference. Inspiring. John
  9. Good morning everyone. I have a couple of things coming up, one for an item that has to live outdoors, so getting wet and UV will be regular things but strength requirements would be average. The other something that needs to be strong but doesn't need super fine detail. I've avoided ABS up till now and would prefer to stay away from it if I can. Will ASA do what I need for the outdoor piece? IF so, what experiences have folks had with ApolloX? PETG wise, how has it gone with HDGlass? I'm also toying with trying one or both of these prints with some Nylforce CF, but I think the nylon is not going to like the wet. Am I off base on that? Thanks in advance? John
  10. Oh that is funny. Just under a million years ago, when we programmers wore pocket protectors for real and not ironic value, and used punched cards, debugging code was a life threatening emergency. Sleep became elusive. Coffee became a measurable component of blood. The term we used back then when a program finally ran without the tape drives (remember them) stalling or the card reader spitting up was 'algorasm'. I would say this is a cycle, but more like a spiral upwards..... J
  11. I'm unaware of any option other than third party printcores if you want a replaceable nozzle. I have a 3D Solex/gr5 Hardcore (AA) and the advantage of that unit is that it allows you to use a wide range of nozzle types, so you can print abrasive filaments without destroying the core. That said, I don't have any experience with the BB hardcore, maybe others here can chime in. Just something to consider if you do decide to go the core replacement route anyway... J
  12. Grinding. Hmmm..I would wonder about temperature, then feed rate, then whether the extruder teeth are contaminated (with ground up filament), which would reduce traction and lead to easier grinding.... John
  13. That reminds me of someone I dated in my 20's. Are you suggesting the S5 is 'high maintenance'?
  14. Unless I am mistaken, this new UM3 is still for sale and is in India....
  15. Two questions: 1) when you say 'out of the box' I just want to be clear, both rolls were not exposed to air for any length of time prior to this print? (1a) If the yellow had been opened, how long ago was that? 2) Did you try swapping print cores to see if the yellow prints any better through a different core? Looks like a real annoyance. Hopefully someone smarter than me will see an easy fix and share it shortly. John
  16. Good feedback @geert_2, thank you! Your reflections on alternatives make sense. My thinking in this case was to have the part come off the printer in a state where, after curing, it would be good to go with minimal post processing. Your points on the weaknesses introduced by the infill echo a similar engineering concern on shear lines. I did consider alternative placement, there are some constraints on doing that, such as printing a sloping surface without a big alias effect and a full length bore for a rod. That said, I am looking into mold options, there are a few threads here on filament choices, around here it looks like I am down to moldlay or printable wax. May have to do a bit of trial and error there. Thanks again, appreciate your help! John
  17. Good afternoon everyone. Just wondering if this will work or if it is a very bad idea. I have a model that I need to be strong and relatively ridgid in more than one plane. it's pretty tall, just about the entire height of my UM3 volume and narrow enough that I am worried that significant leverage could result in a break along a print line. I really don't think infill geometry is going to do enough for me. I was recently working with some low viscosity, relatively low temperature curing epoxy on a woodworking project (stablising spalted maple internals for a table) and it occurred to me, what if I printed a grid infill and, before I got to the point where I started to skin the top, I paused the print and filled in the infill columnar gaps with this epoxy. If this worked, I would further like to experiment with suspending reinforcing fibre or steel wire in the epoxy columns, much like rebar. I will, of course, make a test run and fill it with the expoxy once removed from the print zone to test for watertightness and to make sure it doesn't just melt everything, but I thought I'd see if anyone here has tried such a thing. Would it do as I expect, and harden into may vertical bonded expoxy rods, or would it ultimately fail? John
  18. This is a great read, thank you for putting it together. Eliminating or bypassing the load paths that can track along a 'weld' joint feels to me like the holy grail of FDM printing. Technologies like MarkForged have made significant improvements, but only in one direction, AFAIK there is nothing yet that can provide this advantage in more than one plane short of a sintering/annealing process of some kind. All that said, the print core concept seems to me to allow for the use of just about any technology in a print core bay. Right now we are using only FDM heads. Maybe one day we will see a laser reheat/sinter ability or continuous fibre cutting process incorporated into a 'print core'. That, to me, holds some of the greatest promise as design for additive manufacturing starts to point the way toward execution options. Cheers John
  19. This is a great thread, thank you gr5. Just a question on the .25 programming. I see the second line references E32350 As the other nozzle offsets seem to match their diameter, the trend led me to expect E32500. Is the nozzle actually a bit undersize? I also presume, since cura can't handle 0.6 AA yet, the gcode to program an AA hardcore to 0.6 would just screw stuff up Is that correct? Thanks again John
  20. Can someone walk me through the specifics of this plate? Would it have an integrated heater, or simply replace the glass? I know it can't be this simple, so let me ask the dumb question: If the plate has no electronics connected to it, what would stop someone from milling a high quality alloy plate flat and going with that? John
  21. Great to hear! Enjoy! Cheers John
  22. I'm confused by your description of the 3mm gap. Did you test the travel with power off? Can you physically slide the blocks until you hear each limit switch click? Do you feel a change in resistance to movement before you get that click? Maybe if you can post a picture or two of the position of the slider blocks after an attempt to home that would help. John
  23. Welcome! First couple of questions: Is this happening when you try to home the printer, or does it happen just during a print? If homing is working fine, but prints are hitting this issue, then it may be a setting thing. Assuming it happens at homing, then read on.... I have a UMO, not a UMO+, and the problem you describe sounds similar to something you can get into with CNC construction, so let me offer the following: My first guess (and it is only that) would be that the cross slides are going past the limit switches so you are getting a collision with a hard item, like printer structure or a rod. If this is the case, then the shaking you are observing may be belt teeth jumping on the pulleys or the stepper motors stalling. So it might be good to troubleshoot the limit switches, mechanics, signal, setting. Now, my comparator is UMO, not a UMO+. so I am assuming the limit switches are the same mechanical ones for both. If that is true, I would start troubleshooting with the power off, confirm you can move the print head manually with little force, then move it manually to its limits. If your room is quiet enough, you should hear the limit switches clicking when they are made. If you don't hear the click when you would expect it, slide the print head where you would expect it to stop and have a look to see if the limit switch slider are positioned as they should be. You'll need to check this on both ends of the X and Y axis. If the mechanics are correct, then I would check that you have the positive limits wired to positive inputs and aren't reversed, as during zeroing the printer will hit a stop then back up slightly, but only if the switch is where you told the printer it would be. If wiring is correct, then settings, I believe there are reversed axes on the UMO+ as there are on UMO, but disclaimer again. Your setup guide will help. Not sure if any of the above is of use, hopefully it will at least get you started. Others who know more will likely get you closer to a solution quickly once they join. Cheers John
  24. I don't equate legacy and obsolete. Legacy products may still be in production and will get support for in service problems, but new design work is scaled back. As a comparison, the Airbus 320 (not the new engine option) is already considered a 'legacy' aircraft, so it is hard to get new engineering done on it, but new ones are still rolling off the line. John
  25. I second that motion. I can understand that the Ultimaker team has only so much time and resources to work with. Once a printer goes into 'legacy' status such that no new development will be occurring on it, then why not open source those things that the community would like to continue to grow but Ultimaker cannot make a case for? Now, that said, it may be that some of what we are asking to flow down from new engineering is still covered by patents, in which case I understand the restriction. Hopefully that would only affect a small portion of what the users could benefit from. John
×
×
  • Create New...