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Kaminoan

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  1. Welcome to discovery land!! It is a blast Been customizing LEGO figure for over 15 years. I silicon rubber mold, pressure cast, sculpt in clay, decal, create vector art, vacuum form, air brush, and a few other odds and ends all around customizing LEGO figures. I have been wanting to add 3D printing for ages, but was a bit afraid of the 3d creation software. Finally took the plunge and been having fun. Flickr Gallery of my work Glad to finally be in the sand box!
  2. I just recently purchased a UM3. Initially bed leveling was working fairly well and holding day over day. My printer is about a month old now and bed leveling is consuming more and more of my time so I have been reading the forums and Googling. I have a few questions due to my lack of knowledge. My UM3 seems to be square and all 4 feet rest on the counter top, so I believe it's frame is level. The print bed, should be it level with a bubble level or is the head out of level because of the two holding rods and the bed is level to the head? I assume it is the latter as when I level via manual leveling it is out of level via bubble level. I have ordered some metric feeler gauges, but is there some other critical tool for leveling? Also has anyone set up a video of UM3 leveling that is recommended? From the broad strokes to the fine tuning? Thanks Jared
  3. Also by my experience, it ain't the tool, but the person behind it. And, a lot of people here use different tools, so it is good to get their experience as well.I agree. I have crazy large equipment at work and while, for example, it may function as a hammer if I can figure out how to make it work like a screw driver why not. Just because a tool has function X doesn't mean in the right hands it can't do many other things. This is what I am looking for out of my UM3. I want to know every limitation and how to push them into benefits.
  4. Thanks. I am a scientist by training and used to trial and error approach. I think I will turn on all the settings and start playing. I realize the Hammer likely doesn't need supports and have been playing more with printing without supports or PVA. Things are going fairly well, but as I mentioned I want to dial in the printer to print very small with high accuracy. My biggest issue is bed leveling and I am slowly digging through those issues now. Jared
  5. Thanks Ultiarjan for the Walk before you run approach, but I like to learn through doing. Is there somewhere or some book, that is best for figuring out all these hidden settings? On the whole I have been fairly successful in what I am printing. I predominately have issues with the bed leveling and I keep fighting my way through that, but have pulled off some very nice prints. Ultimately I want to fine tune and print very small items with as high a resolution in Z as possible. So I am trying to figure out all the alterations and friends keep recommending simplified3d over Cura. Will simply changing software help that much or is it hiding these settings in a new place? Thanks
  6. Would someone confirm the sizes of the Feeler Gauges? I get the 1mm gauge, but what is the size replacement for the paper card? When I measure the card it is 0.15mm, which wasn't mentioned here at all. I just bought my first 3D printer, a UM3, and I am constantly fighting a bed leveling issue. I am a total novice. My PLA just doesn't want to stick to the bed and will have little raised lines in the brim. If I have a brim of 7mm, as suggested in Cura, I get waffling in the brim and it will release from the bed and stick to my print head. So I use a 3mm brim and that works better, but I don't get a smooth edge to the brim print and it will still release on occasion from the bed. I constantly manually level and then on occasion use the auto level option and it still doesn't really get better. I want to print really small items and push the resolution Z layering down as far as I can get it, but do occasionally print larger item. Am I doing something wrong being a novice? I work in microscopy at work and get critical stage leveling, but this is just driving me crazy. One of the reasons I bought the UM3 was I thought it would minimize these sorts of issues. Please help!
  7. I also get this issue and will verify cura version.
  8. Here is a picture of what I am talking about
  9. I just bought my first 3D printer, an Ultimaker 3, and I have a few issues with PVA. First it seems to burn on the BB4 nossle. When printing it can loop back onto the nossle. When priming it coats the nossle. While this is troubling and having to constantly clean it is just that annoying. My issue is when using PVA for supports it gets stringy and prints poorly. It also seems to cover sides and not just below, which I don't understand. Let me explain. I am printing Thor's hammer scaled down for my son. It covers the whole mallet portion of the hammer in PVA, why? But again it prints with stringy messy edges and those can get stuck in the PVA layers. Just concerned. What is normal?
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