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Everything posted by RudydG

  1. Thanks! I did a fresh install, and now the material shows up. Solved. 😉
  2. I installed it thru the marketplace (just like the iglidur 150, and a lot of other materials, which all work perfect), but it does not show up in cura materials selection. It is UM3 and UM5 compatible, both printers i use. Anyone a clue?
  3. Did you check the pulleys? I once had a pulley that was coming lose. (check on the motors and the connecting pulleys)
  4. Yes, quite remarkable! The most critical things are speed, (jerk and acceleration) Maybe one off the belt tensioning?
  5. Let's see what the Polymax result will be.
  6. Are you sure your filament is dry? do you still have your 2+?
  7. Here you are: UM3 AA 0.4 Latest cura, default setting 0.15 Polymaker tough pla black The damage to the brim is a result of a too high adhesive from the first layer (normally i do a Z 0.1 offset) Greetings, Rudy
  8. Same here, only the Brim removed, and Z offset of 0.1, and for mechanical parts horizontal -0.1
  9. I suggest this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2166102 I will print it on my um3, Cura 4.6.1, default 0.15mm with ultimaker tough black pla setting. Probably will be on my printer in 24hours. (is busy now)
  10. https://www.amazon.com/Polymaker-PolyMax-Filament-Jam-Free-Stronger/dp/B00YXBNMOI/ref=pd_sbs_328_6/135-1764888-1426240?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01GDURWJC&pd_rd_r=27805f8b-5a57-426a-9497-bc97a8692d0a&pd_rd_w=f3a5U&pd_rd_wg=aT3Rj&pf_rd_p=bdc67ba8-ab69-42ee-b8d8-8f5336b36a83&pf_rd_r=NVBD88NNWMJREG45FGZF&refRID=NVBD88NNWMJREG45FGZF&th=1
  11. Sorry, i don't use PETG, this is not the same as Tough-pla Polymax This i have "in stock" https://www.amazon.com/Polymaker-PolyMax-Filament-Jam-Free-Stronger/dp/B00YXBNMOI/ref=pd_sbs_328_6/135-1764888-1426240?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01GDURWJC&pd_rd_r=27805f8b-5a57-426a-9497-bc97a8692d0a&pd_rd_w=f3a5U&pd_rd_wg=aT3Rj&pf_rd_p=bdc67ba8-ab69-42ee-b8d8-8f5336b36a83&pf_rd_r=NVBD88NNWMJREG45FGZF&refRID=NVBD88NNWMJREG45FGZF&th=1
  12. I use this 90% of the time: https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polymax-pla/ mostly white and light grey, also blue, yellow and black For the object, we can use the testblock u pictured in you post.
  13. If you ask me regarding the printquality, my UM2+ is my best, then the UM3, followed by the S5. But the prints you show here are not ok, and the difference between PQ for all these machines are minor. Maybe we can do a test with the same settings and filament, and exchange pictures from the results, so you can judge? I have mostly tough pla from Polymaker, and for budget i use makerfill. Send me the file + settings (i advice standard 0.15 default) Greetings
  14. After doing all this stuff, and still so bad prints, i would seriously doubt the filament. Did you change that? Would be my first thing to do. I you situation i would: 1 change filament 2 change settings to a default fine setting 3 change printcore. 4 change extruder (you can set the default to printcore2, and thereby you can elimate the feeder / bowden) 4 all the rest you already did.
  15. Maar het ziet er zo slordig uit; een +6k machine waar niet fatsoenlijk uur en minuten op staat. Komt de baas langs om naar de nieuwe machine te kijken, zegt ie, nou, dat is toch snel Rudy, moet je daar een verhaaltje gaan afsteken dat de printer die jij als beste naar voor geschoven hebt, een bugje heeft.
  16. Versuche mal mit Klarwasser, nichts dazu. Ich habe viele glasplatte kaput gemacht mit glasreiniger (Instant) zui gebrauchen.
  17. In meinen besten Deutsch 😉 1: nur mit Klarwasser reinigen 2: nie ohne "Schicht" drucken (ich nutze 3D-lac) 3: erste schicht vielleicht etwas hoher printen (plugin Z-ofset, werde von 0.1 in Cura) Grusse Rudy
  18. This is impossible. with UM3, S3 and S5, there is no way to "tweak" and certainly not change the software. Also, these are expensive machines, in case of damaging you probably are in for a huge bill. I feel your frustration, if you think it takes a long time to level the plate, try using a S5 😉But in the proces of printing, this is a negligible amount of time, to get it right from the first time.
  19. I have the opposite situation, on my UM3, the nozzle is always to close to the bed with active leveling. I solved this by using Z-offset (Cura plugin). Maybe you can try that?
  20. For this i use adaptive layers, with a minimum of 0.06mm. (this is the minimum i print) These settings are (hidden?) under experimental. If you want to vary between 0.06mm an 0.2mm, set the normal layer height at 1.3mm and the layer max variation at 1.4mm. This is just an example, but it would be settings for a globe. Can you change the layout of the parts? For friction parts, i always try to print 1 of the touching parts without layers (Z flat) For rounds i would print 1 horizontal an 1 vertical. Ps, ironing is something to avoid in many situations, especially with fine layers.
  21. Old post lol Could you help me out, how to use this? Maybe i ame a bit lazy to search 😉 But can you put me in the right direction? Thanks, Rudy
  22. Is this still not fixed?? I don't understand this. To be honest, the best implementation is the tinker firmware on my 2+. There i can set a timeout for the lights and the screen. Please Ultimaker fix this!
  23. Als je twijfelt aan de "laaghechting", zou ik de temp iets laten stijgen, 5g of max 10g. Overhang is natuurlijk de reden waarom dual extrusie bestaat. De UM robot is altijd wel wat moeilijk te printen, het is tenslotte een teststukje.
  24. Ik zou aanraden om de Tinker firmware te installeren, dan kan je een aantal extra instelligen doen, zoals verlichting en scherm uit na x tijd, dat piepend geluid bij het bedienen van de draaiknop uitschakelen, en nog wat extra mogelijkheden. (werking van d eprinter blijft identiek) Voor de rest blijft het volgens mij de beste single extrusion printer van Ultimaker. In Cura het je een een aantal goed ingestelde profielen, die je op weg zullen helpen. Bespaar niet op filament, Pla is een goede start, voor stevigeren stukken heb je tough pla, ook zeer eenvoudig te printen. Ik gebruik als hechting op de glazen plaat een dun laagje 3DLAC. Werkt altijd.
  25. First: the um2 is not bad, upgrades are not mandatory, it is a perfectly working printer, the um2. The + upgrade, is a nice to have. But if you are on low budget, and have to chose between filament or upgrades? Do you encounter problems like it is now? Then i would upgrade the parts which give you limitations today. Personaly, i would stay away from third parties upgrades, Ultimaker machines are all about reliability, and therefore original parts are your best options. And I, but that is me, would prefer the hotend upgrade as first, then you get more options in nozzle sizes, and easier to maintain the hotend. Working with the "old" feeder is more controllable, if you do not print at to high speeds with normal materials it is not a bad feeder.
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