RudydG

problem is back. how do i make the backupfile?

Thanks for your reply! This morning, the print (initiated usb) was finished, and the locked file (screenshot) is gone, everything is back in working order. Greetings, Rudy

Never had this before, I can send files to my S5 over Wifi, but they just get in the queu. There is a file "aborted", which i can't delete, and which blocks my printer. How can i delete that file? I can delete everything in the queu, thrue cura connect. Strange..... Luckily usb printing still works.

This was a method i wanted to use already. Think it is the best solution. Surely if the heater is build like that, seems a very easy job!

I used this method before, with metal nuts, but is to much "work" in my case. And my threads are only used like 10x, they hold very well (i print them and only clean them up)

I use straight taps yes. Almost never blind holes, but the evacuation of the debris is the main problem. Maybe i can try these. Thanks.

Many of my designs require assembling, i print threaded holes, but they have to be "cleaned" (i mean tapped anyway) Now i use standard machine taps, and follow the basic rules, not to fast, lubricating, and it kind of works, but i think it can be done even better, as these taps are not designed for plastics, and the evacuation of the waste is sometimes problematic. Anyone got any tips regarding tapping in plastics?

Cleaning? Once in 10 prints i think. And only with regular tapwater. As a fixing material i use 3DLAC, and i always use the right side of the glass now, (UM2, UM3 and S5) What was once difficult, became so easy now!

Kleintje 😉

At a price almost in the range of total printer, for me the material station it is not an ideal option. I manage all my materials manualy or in a polybox. Pva, i just cut the needed length, or, for very big prints, from a polybox. For other sensitive materials, a second or third polybox is used. (they are cheap and easy to use) With a polybox i have the advantage to use large spools, which eliminates much of the filament switching because of end of roll situations. If you buy this material station to reduce your downtimes, maybe better invest in a extra printer? I will buy another S3 (i have 1xUM3 and 1xUMS5) Ofcourse this is my opinion.

Pva is extremely sensitive to moisture / exposure. (sometimes it takes only hours to be "contaminated") At this moment, i use the length indicated by Cura, add about 2mtr's (for the S5), and take that of a roll PVA, (Polymaker S1) This length is feeded into the S5, and the rest of the roll is put back in a sealed bag with silica gel. I lose some 10% on a roll this way, but i have almost no bad prints due to moisture, and my roll is used to the end without drying. There should be more education about 3D printing and the influence of moisture. Pva is probably an extreme example, but many other filaments are sensitive to.

They never learn! I had this with all of the Ultimaker printers (2,3, S5), after several firmware updates they (UM guys) implement a possibility to dim the lights. Now it is there again on the material station. Should be implemented from the start.

I use pva all the time, no issues with it. But the main precaution, is keeping the material dry!!! Drybox, only take the amount needed out off the bag, and reseal the rest. My make is Polymax polydisolve S1.

I use Polymaker dissolve S1 material, works very good with all my materials, Pla, Tough Pla, Copa, Carbon fibre... It is extremely important to keep it dry! I use 2 Polyboxes, but often i only cut the needed length plus some extra, and reseal the bag with the rest. Works fine. Always a little waste, but never had any fail since i used this method. (in fact, i do this with most of my moisture sensitive material) So bottom line, if you experience problems, first make sure all is dry! (my PVA does not stand more that 24 hour without being to humid to print)

If the fan works standalaone, you could check the voltage on the connector when the cores are hot, check for 5V dc. Maybe it is the wiring, maybe even the motherboard. In my case, it was a blocked fan. I cleaned all the mess out, and everything worked fine again. (took me some time to find out why this machine gave me troubles)

Difficult to answer this question. What is considered strong? So many possibilities. Even in Nylon you have many options. In the past i used CF from Colorfabb, but it was no "the" solution for everything. Ultimaker has already a nice collection of quality filament, where the settings are under control 😉 And if you go into the marketplace of Cura, you will find all the supported materials, if you chose in that range, life will be easier.: I am going to test with this one: PolyMide™ CoPA (according the specs has twice the bending en tensile strength than polymax pla (=tough pla) which i normaly use.

Yes, it is one of the options. But you can also play 100% safe and use the UM filaments, then your are sure about all the parameters. Really consider this option, and then you will learn to appreciate the total package Ultimaker offers you.

Polymaker is the filament i use 90% of the time, very good quality!

Pull, i know between my hip and hand is 1mtr. for extensive lengths, + 10mtr, i use my Polymaker drybox.

Easy, i just unroll the amount Cura tells me to use, plus an extra Mtr that goes into the bowden tube. And if you miss, the printer detects your out of filament so the print isn't ruined.

Bob, I use my S5 now about a year, and learned to live with the critical moisture sensitive materials without the material changer. First, the S series have filament sensors, secondly Cura is a very good slicer (I was addicited to Simplify, but that simply does not work with S series, you lose all the benefits), which gives you the exact length of filament needed. So what i do mostly, open the bag with moisture critic filament (PVA / Nylon ...), cut the needed length + 1mtr (for the tubing), and feed that into the printer. Easy peasy, no need for this expensive adon. (although it has its advantages)

My 3 is better than my S5 in terms of print quality and dimensional accuracy. Not to say the S5 is bad, just the 3 is a tad finer. But i also suppose the 2+ is even better.... I use my S5 for functional prototypes. Mostly Tough pla, and often i do a horizontal layer compensation of -0.1 in Cura.

I have a 3 and a S5. Both very good printers. At this moment i have budget to buy another printer, and wanted to try out resin printing. Could be another 3, or S3. As for the S5, i don't need the material handling box, i have used to live with the limitations, i have 3 dryboxes, and the end of roll sensor of the S5 works very good.

Same feeling here. Next friday i go and see a demo of the formlabs 3, also the Zortrax Inkspire draws my attention.

So you see, 24 september is not specified enough!! Waiting waiting waiting....