minercraftal
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Posts posted by minercraftal
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Do you have a caliper... try to measure the filament , is it 2.85 or 3... I had kind the same problem and finally got it’s the old filament from 3 years ago which was a wrong size for the new settings...
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Could it be a bad board, gave the wrong information or sometimes don’t lock the motor makes that big steps... well I’m not so experienced
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Last time works this morning but asked me to update, and then I did it, ask me to unload the old one and install the new one, and then when I clicked run the app, it got me in settings again and crashed a bunch of times can’t get started. My 360 showed up so I turned it off but still don’t help...
if I cannot use the new one may I use the old one please... or ever I don’t have that choice?
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On 3/27/2018 at 10:47 AM, burtoogle said:
question out of settings:
is it possible to have z axle action to make the first bridging layer goes in parabolic line? That will limit the dragging effect by using the internal strength for the material...
There’s no setting about this yet as I know.
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1 hour ago, geert_2 said:
Annealing does not just shrink the model by 5%: it shrinks it in X- and Y-size, but it gets thicker in Z-size, and it severely warps due to the relaxation of built-in stresses. Better use filament that can handle the required temperatures from the beginning. And even then, the result is only a poor less than 10°C better temp-resistance for PLA: still not usable in a car, it will still deform in a mild spring sun.
I tried annealing in different ways: by putting a fridge box on top of the model, and keep the build-plate hot (60...70°C for PLA). And in my well-controlled lab-oven.
An untreated, and a "too well" treated model (a bit too high temp): this one got much shorter, but much thicker. And it obviously warped severely...
Some filaments warp in both directions: first upwards, then after a day in the opposite direction downwards. Very weird, I have no explanation for this, and very unpredictable. Thus unusable for accurate parts.
Thanks for those test results 😂, it’s a sad story, but the results are funny... I did not start my test yet, so I don’t know it has that much trouble... but not surprised about these happened. Failed to search any information out from google... well my trouble happens again, way too many ideas... like to build a abs case( I did tried nylon with pla, don’t stick together makes it easier to take apart, don’t know about abs but probably can be washed away ) to try to eliminate the shape changing, and the second idea is to add a reheater on the nozzle, to reheat the lower side of the part for annealing while printing, don’t know if any more ideas will come out soon... and it only interrupts me cause I have other stuff not finished to do... too many ideas don’t help much.
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Don’t know if my thoughts bounced forward or it’s just people still trying on it yet.
there’s heat treating method on 3d printing called annealing, which saids will shrink the print size by 5% and make it much stronger.
then than that, I was thinking about, can the annealing just build into the printer, for it don’t need high temperature, I checked the maximum bed temperature, it’s 120°C, and it’s just enough for it.
the things need to make this method appear, is just a case, which other stuff already exists. The programming just need a special default setting, increasing the size by a percentage, increasing hole size extras.
as well, the ultimaker is one of those rear printers, that is surrounded with covers, that’s necessary for something else, but the good point is, just make some extra designs in the cover, the build in heat treatment method will work, and will make exactly way more higher quality prints than ever.
I was trying to search for a printer which can do heat treatment, but no results come out at all...otherwise, I’ll be appreciated to buy a um3 case upgrade kit, if you do accept this method and produce it out.
I hate programming...i can help on design the shape of the new case 😄
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My printer, um3, upgrade is on the latest model, says connected on the machine, but have nothing coming out either cura or the website... just want to have some video catch by the camera which once worked a long time ago...
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There’s difference between filaments. Pla is more stiff on low temperatures, nylon is stronger. So if there’s anything to do, like making something with one layer of pla as top coat on a nylon print? Seems to me that the pla will hold that short period of higher temperature. Then the print probably will be stronger and smoother!
something else about layers, there is always the same thickness on the surface in each level. I am in default settings, so it will give 3 layer in a row on each level. But, I think, and believe, that if it make it like, 2 and 3 layers, zigzagged with the filled in, then it will be bite together, and make it a much stronger print!
Anyway, it is something about setting, or programming, but neither of those I know how to deal with... 😂 hope somebody can help? -
7 hours ago, Smithy said:
If you don't want to make your own dry box, I can also suggest the Polybox, works well for me.
I like to diy, that’s why I’m playing 3d printer... tkx for suggestions
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6 hours ago, Torgeir said:
Hi minercraftal,
I'll agree with others saying your filament is contaminated with water. What we see here is that water affected filament entering the hot end, create vapor that's increase the pressure inside the hot end and then lead to over extruding that's erratic. Nylon is one of the most sensitive (close to PVA), for attracting water in high humidity environment.
So, be there when nylon filament printing is done and store your valuable filament into sealed container with silica bag to keep it ready for next print.
Also, a lo temp for nylon might be more like (235-240) deg. C. Normally nylon tend to string a little, so a little tuning here is often needed.
Printing with nylon need some attention for cold draft into the lo end of the printer. Such draft can reduce the bounding between the layers of your model, very important. So cover up the lo part an the front. Also using a top hat that's have an exhaust valve to vent out fumes, however when printing with nylon the exhaust vent is closed and heat is vented on the open underside of the top hat.-
Typical bed temp is about 75 deg. C. This temperature create a draft from lo through the upper part of the printer.
In Cura there is a tools to protect your object from draft, -use it, it work very well for me.
It's named "Draft Shield" and it's used to shield models, keep the heat and prevent models to warp.
This one have been sometime in Cura, but still located under experimental (Cura 4.7.1).
Here is it:
When printing Nylon, the cooling fan for your model is off -all the time..
By the way, I'm mostly printing around (250-255) deg. C for the brand I'm using.
So last, select a good 1 class filament for your nylon printing -that's the important thing to do here..
Good luck with your nylon printing.
Thanks
Torgeir
Thank you for your series reply. I am planing on making a dry box, so I cannot try your suggestions now, but I will take it and try it after I am done with my dry box!
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Add in some information about the bedding method:
When the pla is supporting the brims in nylon printing, each nylon part bedding surface should not be more than 3/4 square inches, Or it will still shrink out, up to around 2 square inches, it will not stay bedding anymore.
Maybe “leg standing method” is another way help on bedding? Looks like a lot of bridge legs, instead of a whole piece of layer. It will have less heat shrink effect. -
7 hours ago, geert_2 said:
Printing slow, cool and in thin layers reduces the effect for PET (I have no experience with nylon), but does not eliminate it. One cause is the internal pressure of molten material in the nozzle, which then leaks a little bit while traveling. So, less speed = less pressure = less leaking. That droplet is deposited on the next wall the nozzle encounters after traveling through air. On the next pass, the droplet is deposited on the previous droplet, and so on, causing these nice "insect antennas". Watch closely and you see them growing. Another cause can be material accumulating on the outside of the nozzle, sagging, and then being deposited onto the print, but that gives bigger brown blobs usually. Sticky, rubbery materials like PET have this way more than yoghurt-like materials as PLA. And obviously, wet material that starts cooking off water in the nozzle, thus generating steam and increasing internal pressure and forcing material out, is not going to help. So keep nylon and ABS *very* dry, and even keep them in a drybox while printing. Nylon absorbs way too much moisture in only a few hours. There are threads on the forum of people who modified or built dryboxes to use them while printing.
Tried 220 C° and a lower speed, and the branch is just moved away instead of being limited. This time I heard the bobble sound, which tells me that there is some moisture issue appears. Anyway, your suggestion do helped me learned something about my printer, and otherwise I still believe my inventory of pre-retraction might helps. But I don’t know programming, cannot help myself adding some change to Cura...
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17 minutes ago, geert_2 said:
Printing slow, cool and in thin layers reduces the effect for PET (I have no experience with nylon), but does not eliminate it. One cause is the internal pressure of molten material in the nozzle, which then leaks a little bit while traveling. So, less speed = less pressure = less leaking. That droplet is deposited on the next wall the nozzle encounters after traveling through air. On the next pass, the droplet is deposited on the previous droplet, and so on, causing these nice "insect antennas". Watch closely and you see them growing. Another cause can be material accumulating on the outside of the nozzle, sagging, and then being deposited onto the print, but that gives bigger brown blobs usually. Sticky, rubbery materials like PET have this way more than yoghurt-like materials as PLA. And obviously, wet material that starts cooking off water in the nozzle, thus generating steam and increasing internal pressure and forcing material out, is not going to help. So keep nylon and ABS *very* dry, and even keep them in a drybox while printing. Nylon absorbs way too much moisture in only a few hours. There are threads on the forum of people who modified or built dryboxes to use them while printing.
Your description makes a lot of sense! I had planing on making a dry box, I’m not quite sure how the humidity is now, I just feel like it is “crispy”, not soft. Did not learned if the bobble sound is the only effect when the material is wet. And still think “pre-retraction” might help on these kind of issue, it will help to limit the internal pressure in the nozzles. The plan I get from your teaching is to turn off the fan, using a lower temperature and low speed at the same time. I’ll try it tonight. And actually I feel it might not work, looks like it is the pressure remained in the end of nozzle, like a spring bouncing in and out, and made that wired sticks.
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4 hours ago, Smithy said:
As said, I had good success with PETG, could be different with Nylon, but that was the only idea I had left 🙂
Never mind, it is what it is, I just have to cut those point, where the nozzle jumps to another single surface. Except those spots, it seems has no big issues in printing!
Thus I still want deal with it...
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2 hours ago, Smithy said:
The search field above the settings is a great feature, you need only a part of the name of a setting to get it and you get it in any way regardless of your visibility settings,
good luck 😀
Kind of sure I tried it, and it is making the printing worse now, the drag is crazy with this off..
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Just now, Smithy said:
When you switch Cura to English then just enter "combing" in the search field and you should get it. I am currently not in front of my Cura so I cannot check the section.
That might help, but I’m not at my printer either. 😄 I’ll try it tonight!
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2 minutes ago, Smithy said:
I had some similar issues with PETG and I tried a lot. Turning off combing helped also, so maybe you can also give it a try,
Thanks for help! I’ll try it, and can you tell me where or the exact words is the section please? I am using Chinese system, not familiar with those words..
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7 hours ago, Smithy said:
You can also play with the retraction settings, because these strings occur when the print head is travelling and the nozzle oozes. So lowering print temp is one thing, higher retraction also, but in some cases you cannot avoid it. But such defects are often easy to remove in post processing.
But keep also in mind that nylon absorbs really quickly moisture from the air. So keep your spool dry and if possible also during printing if it is a longer print job. If you just leave the spool on the printer for some hours it could be enough to get bad results. So maybe that's also the case, but you can dry your spool in the oven or overnight on the heated print bed covered with a towel.
Thanks for help, but I did tried on it, looks that the default settings are in the best issue. I found and changed the compensation part and it made it even more strange with no help. Maybe a “pre retract” will help but I did not find any settings on this. And of course I tried to keep my filament dry, at least I did not get any bubble sound during printing..
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4 hours ago, stu_le_brew said:
This can often be improved by dropping the print temperature a few degrees, hard to say how many as it will vary by materiel and sometimes even different colors of the same materiel type
Well I have been tried on changing degrees, but don’t understand why the printing get different on every time printing the same stuff, and, the branches are still there.
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There’s another idea about dealing with lagging materials, it is to set the pre-retract time, that the materials been retracted, a little bit before level is finished. And if it is happened not on the surface, it would not bother the printing effect, but can deal the lagging issue, which bothers me pretty much (thus I am not sure if that’s the problem). Don’t know if I am thinking too far, but when I was trying to find this option, I did not find it.
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Just an idea. I don’t really like the glue bedding way. Thinking the pla can do bedding much better than nylon, so I used it as brims for the nylon bedding.. works pretty well! At least it holds it. Wondering if any material stick to the bed much better, that can be used as a better mix-bedding way. Otherwise, don’t know if there’s some material does not stick together well, and then it can be used on holding up the shape. Well, I don’t have any knowledge about it, just an idea...
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It happens when jumps to another surface, that the direction the nozzle goes in, build up some piece of “stick”, which I tried to change a lot of settings with no help. It made some great mess on the hard angle printing. It still works pretty good on regular printing. Cleaning nozzle has no help on this issue.
New update continues crash cannot even start.
in Improve your 3D prints
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thanks, the 4.8 works as used to be... as well, i did not let it remove the old settings, but it just asked me for it again and got crashed.
redownload 4.8 did not asked me for the settings again, maybe the 4.9 scan a different place from 4.8 so don't recieve those information.
otherwise, i don't know why my 360 warning me again, but anyway, I know barely nothing about programming, so as long as it still slicing im good with it...