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perplex

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Posts posted by perplex

  1. 3 minutes ago, smartavionics said:

    Hello @perplex, when Enable Bridge Settings is not checked, none of those settings are used. There is some legacy code in Cura that detects unsupported skin regions and modifies their alignment but other than that, there is no special handling of walls, etc.

    yes i know when its unchecked it doesnt use the settings but what im asking is, my print speed is 40mm/s, but when i enable the settings it makes it 11.25mm/s, guess im asking what is the default bridge speed with it unticked and im guessing that is whatever your print speed is, so i may of just answered my own question

     

    im assuming the defaults are

     

    Bridge Wall speed - whatever your print speed is

    Bridge wall flow - what ever your flow rate is

    Bridge skin density - whatever your line spacing is

     

    just trying to work out what the printer does when its unticked. 99% sure i just answered my own question

  2. if anyone is wondering, i think its because the fan speed is set to high so its cooling the part to much, i tried printing with 0 fan and it was almost perfect and no lifting, but you dont get the best finish, but i think i just need to find the correct fan speed

  3. On 3/28/2018 at 1:17 AM, smartavionics said:

    (deleted to save space)

     

    Feedback Required From You

     

    Please give it a go and share your experiences, all feedback is welcome (good and bad). You can either reply to this topic or for really bad news, please submit a github issue.

    Screenshot_2018-03-27_14-53-54.png

     

    quick question,

     

    when i tick "Enable Bridge Settings" it changes a whole lot of setting (all the ones in the picture below), my question is when its not ticket what are these settings? this way i have a base line to start off with, but since as soon as i tick it they change settings, it makes it hard to work out what it was like to begin with.

     

    are you able to tell me the settings they revert back too when you untick it on all the bridge settings? for example "Bridge Wall Speed" i believe the default is whatever the "Print Speed" is set too not 11.25 in this case it should be 45.

     

    a.thumb.JPG.120578b55f100f096bebd8626d591488.JPG

     

     

  4. i have a Anet A8, i use cura

    im having issues where my part starts lifting i use to use blue tape what works find for smaller prints, but not larger, and is super hard to remove prints from, ive also wiped the tape down with alcohol to improve it to stick but it ends up lifting the tape off the bed and even harder to remove

    so things ive tried

    blue tape - part lifts, sometimes the tape
    blue tape with alcohol - part still lifts, also high chance to lift the tape
    increased bed temp from 60c to 65
    slowing the first layer speed to 15mm/s
    swapping bed to Anycubic Ultrabase
    adding more flow to the first layer
    increasing first layer height
    increasing line width
    increasing temp from 200c-205c
    testing 85c bed temp (warps heaps more)
    adding a brim
    enclosing the printer, it got to 32c air temp

     

    i made a smaller STL file so it doesnt use and much material and with that i found i could get to a higher layer height before it started to warp

     

    IMG_20190426_173246.thumb.jpg.7269abb1a1329d293ded551028114197.jpg

    IMG_20190502_143552.thumb.jpg.0b9f254ea45457624a6af217cf8b3b5f.jpg

    IMG_20190502_143525.thumb.jpg.7413f7093298df60d2f8cd3f38f5f7af.jpg

     

    yes i know its a harder print because the top is sloping and will pull it back but i would of thought it would still work

     

    if you want the STL file here is a google drive link, with some extra photos

    (deleted by OP)

     

    any ideas would be great

     

  5. 14 hours ago, obewan said:

    I dont think his is in Cura,

    In slic3r it is called 'solid layer every'

    ah, maybe thats it, i must of seen it when seeing what slicer i like

    7 hours ago, gr5 said:

    It's possible to do this if you add a cuboid stl file that envelops these layers where you want a different infill setting.  but if you want to do this more than 3 or so times it starts to get to be a lot of work to create and position all these cuboids.

    yea, it must of been a slic3r setting

  6. i believe there is a setting where you can add a full layer every xxx layers

     

    so say you ahve 20% infill, it prints the bottom layer, then does infill, then say 50 layers in, it will print another bottom layer

     

    i believe i saw this setting, but i cant remember what it is called.

     

    any help?

     

     

  7. 5 minutes ago, mattgriffin said:

    that is not big. The check is opening it in meshlab, meshmixer, and checking the density of the triangles. If it is just black with tight triangles everywhere, you might not need that much resolution assigned to that geometry (so it might be introducing more lines of gcode to process than you need). If not, the problem is elsewhere.

    Matt

    im not sure what you mean by check the density of the triangles

     

    the image looks like this

    testfile.JPG

  8. 10 hours ago, mattgriffin said:

    Grab meshmixer from Autodesk for free and you can use that to intelligently repair and decimate. You can also use Netfabb. But probably there are export resolution settings you can adjust for fewer polys and a similar printed result. Check the filesize of your STL and if it is really large, this is possibly having an effect.

    ill have a look at meshmixer.

     

    the file size is 2.16mb for a print of about 1 meter of filament 1.75mm (20-30mins print) im not sure if thats big or not for what it is

  9. 21 hours ago, mattgriffin said:

    Have you tried decimating the design and reprinting? Those blobs usually result from issues with either underrun gcode caching, or fans/electrical pegging thet cause a tiny unintended delay. That would explain while placement is perfect, just results look ugly. If you exported from a pro CAD package and the resolution is over 1million polygons even though the part is simple, that would be something to encourage my theory. ;)

    i use autodesk inventor, any tips for that?

  10. Just now, yellowshark said:

    Well you could; I have never used their standard settings and I have seen examples of them quoted on the forum with settings I consider poor. But you never know :sunglass:. If you can post your model somewhere I am happy to print it with my settings and see what happens.

     

    You did not say if this was your first model or whether you have printed other models previously which have been good?

     

    When you say you tried a different filament, which was better, was that print using my settings or did you do it before I posted them? Can you post a pic of that "better" model.

    sorry, this isnt my first print, square box seems fine, just the round im struggling with , also im not using the ultimaker. i did print something similar a while ago and that looks great, but i dont remember if that was before i updated cure and i had to put my setting back in.

     

     

    your settings still had the issue but made it look neater

     

    so the green is the same settings and the big gray one and the little gray one is your settings

    IMG_20180218_222712.thumb.jpg.651d3e8aafc88276c94b056aeb89ffa2.jpg

     

     

    this is a different model what i did a while ago, there is no blobs but there is a little bit of layer lifting what i also need to work out, thinking it was just to cold when printing, but it shows its some sort of setting, i just dont know what it is

    IMG_20180218_222808.thumb.jpg.a6da8bd386b6facda9c08d8e94a187bd.jpg

     

     

  11. 3 minutes ago, yellowshark said:

    Hmn, I actually thought it was your retraction settings that were probably causing the problem - they are way out compared with anything I have ever used.

     

    Can you print any other model, even just a cube, that comes out perfectly? Or is the problem present on everything you print?

    What printer and PLA filament manufacturer are you using

    I guess you are using Cura 3.n. That will have more settings than 2.4. These will have defaults set, probably. Can I suggest you go through the settings again and if something (i.e. that I have not mentioned) is not needed then untick them or set them to 0. This needs a bit of care as I have not mentioned all my settings above - but certainly most of them - but then may just be something that is affecting it. Actually better still  use a snipping tool (Windows has one) and just copy all your settings and post here.

     

    As @kmanstudios notes, anything strange about your environment, ultra hot or cold?

    If you have them are you printing with your door open and roof off

     

    Now we will have different printers, I have a 3ntr, so you may need to run a different extruder temp than me. Perhaps you could test with 190 and 210 and see what if any difference you get.

     

    I think you mentioned that the filament was not great anyway. if so get some decent filament; Colorfabb is good or if you are in the UK then imho Faberdashery is better and you can buy it in lengths rather than reels so spend less.

     

    Also looking at your picture again the two middle reels seem to have a decent top surface but the two end ones do not. Did you kill those two prints before getting to the end?

    the top surfaces look like that coz i stop the print as i can see i still have the same issue

    i tried a different filament, and it is better but not perfect.

     

    maybe ill try resetting the cure settings to default and see what that does

  12. 7 hours ago, yellowshark said:

    Hi, Here is my result – it looks better in real life but close up and flash never do 3D prints any favours. As you can see there are none of your problems present.

    Settings were…

     

    so i changed as many of my settings to yours and still having the issue

     

    i am running a newer version of cura but thats about it

  13. 17 hours ago, geert_2 said:

    Have you tried printing much slower and cooler? And keep the material flow as constant as possible (=print all things with equal speed)? So that there is no excess pressure build-up in the nozzle? On my UM2 I would aim for 25...30mm/s, and the lowest temp that does not give underextrusion, maybe plus 5°C. Do a test and adjust speed and temp on the fly.

     

    In my experience, some materials tend to have this more than others, especially somewhat rubbery materials like PET. The blobs often come about when the printer travels and then lands again, when the nozzle leaks due to internal pressure build-up. Or when material accumulates on the outside of the nozzle, sags, and is deposited on the print.

     

    so that didnt work, i tried slower speed and lower temp, same thing

    2 hours ago, kmanstudios said:

    Once I noticed that sort of thing happened when my nozzle started to crap out from just so much usage. They do have a lifespan no matter how well you take care of them and do not use abrasives.

    i havent used it much, so i dont think that is the issue

  14. 11 hours ago, Job_van_gennip said:

    Have you already tried maybe lowering the temperature? It really looks like overextrusion. It does not look like a retraction problem since it is all over the print and not just on one place in the model. Try to print in a few different temps maybe as low as 195. It could really be the fillament that you use.

    i just lowered the temp to 195 and same issue

    10 hours ago, yellowshark said:

    Hi as mentioned earlier set your speeds the same - you have print speed and outer wall speed that are different. This is vital, you need to keep nozzle pressure consistent. I would drop all print speeds to 30 mm/s; your goal is to get a decent print, get that and then you can always play with speeding it up if you want to. Temp. is meaningless unless we know speed and layer height. If you are printing hot that will not help you either.

     

    Were the parts in you pic printed separately or were they all on the print bed at the same time?

    i changed all speeds to 30, but kept travel speeds higher

     

    no change, im getting the same issue

     

    i know printing in straight lines is mostly fine, but printing this circle is super bad

     

    im running out of ideas

  15. 23 minutes ago, geert_2 said:

    Have you tried printing much slower and cooler? And keep the material flow as constant as possible (=print all things with equal speed)? So that there is no excess pressure build-up in the nozzle? On my UM2 I would aim for 25...30mm/s, and the lowest temp that does not give underextrusion, maybe plus 5°C. Do a test and adjust speed and temp on the fly.

     

    In my experience, some materials tend to have this more than others, especially somewhat rubbery materials like PET. The blobs often come about when the printer travels and then lands again, when the nozzle leaks due to internal pressure build-up. Or when material accumulates on the outside of the nozzle, sags, and is deposited on the print.

     

    ill try a slower speed and see how that goes

    1 minute ago, Job_van_gennip said:

    Can you post your settings like speed, temp etc. 

    is there a easy way to post all settings?

     

    temp was 205c PLA (this is the worst pla ive used so far as well)

    print speed was 50 (normally i do 40 but i did abit faster for the test but ill drop it back)

    outer wall speed 25

    wall count 2 + alternative extra wall ticked

     

  16. ill attach a image to show you what im trying to fix

     

    ive tried reading online to see what people say to fix it, but all the settings ive tried didnt work

     

    things ive tried are

     

    Z seam alignment from random to shortest

     

    Retraction distance from 1.2 to .4

     

    Travel combing mode from off to All

     

    Turned off retract at layer change

     

    Retraction distance from 1.2 to 2.2

     

    Retract at layer change to off

     

    Retract before outer wall off

    none of the settings worked, is there something else i can try?

    IMG_20180214_193909.jpg

  17. ok so i just checked the bed and i cant get it any closer, i can only just fit a piece of paper in it, and its scraping the paper.

    is there a setting to retract everytime it moves away from a line?

    Edit - i just tried to post again and it didnt post so maybe it didnt like me posting 3 times in a row, so ill edit it here for now

    after days and hours of testing, i finally found the fix what i was after

    Settings>Travel>Tick "Combing Mode">Change it from 'All' to 'Off'

    this way it doesnt stay inside the part and retracts, so this way it does ooze over my print, so when it goes to print, its full of filament, and not half empty because its over my print

    i just need to fine tune my retraction and prime, any idea what is a good starting number for these?

    have you messed around with z hop? is this something i should add since its got a good chance of hitting parts?

  18. By the way if you don't believe me you can probably just push up on the bed a little and see the improvement while it's printing.

     

    hmm, ill level it again, im using a piece of paper for thickness

    when i changed the first layer hight to .15mm nothing came out, so i thought it was too close, but ill try get it closer

    no i dont have auto leveling yet, only screws

    on average what is a good retraction number? i was using .8 but someone said thats way to low

  19. You have a few problems including the one you mentioned.  All of them are fixed if you move the nozzle closer to the tape.  You need to squish that filament into the tape more.

    Also - unrelated - but the filament will stick better if you wash that blue tape briefly with a paper tissue soaked with rubbing alcohol (aka isopropyl alcohol) to wash off the waxy surface that i assume keeps the tape from sticking to itself when it is rolled up.

     

    Thanks for the reply, i did what you said and no success, but i was amazed how much more it stuck when cleaning with the alcohol, as in harder to remove

    ill give you abit more information.

    i set my nozzle to a paper where it grips the paper abit, normally i print the first layer at .2mm but the first post picture was at .4 or .3 to see if it was any different

    here is a picture of the first layer at .2, i have tried .15 first layer but fine the filament doesnt come out very well, as you can see it fixed the first hole but the left hole is completely broken, ill attach a video of how it is moving so you get an idea of what im saying, i also have a feeling if i could get rid of the oozing from when it moves it may fix, but there is no setting for this, that i know of

    58uox.jpg

    i find when it moves long distances it fails to start the print, i have tried another slicer and it worked fine, weather or not it was because it never did as long of a move, i dont know, but i like cura and wondering what setting may fix it

     

    here is a video of the first circle if you were wondering, it looks abit thin, like the oozing is taking what it needs

     

  20. Hey All

    im having trouble getting parts of my print to be hole. i have a feeling when its moving from 1 part to another its not retracting, so when it goes to print, nothing comes out for abit because its oozed/stringed

    ive tried turning on retraction prime, and still no luck. i notice its more of a issue when moving longer distances but as you can see from the picture, it has issues with just 15mm away

    is there a setting i can fix this with? it just wont draw the circles. ive attached pictures of the issue im having

    215.jpg

    the line going to the circle is the entrance line, not the exit

    n8e2b.jpg

    the left side is just the image above and the right side the line is the exit line this time

    hope someone can help

    Cheers

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