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Everything posted by rajilpahuja

  1. Hi There , I gave the mod to bondtech ..... you will have to contact Mr Martin there .... i think he will be happy to provide you this ..... in the meanwhile i will search for the file as well .... it was made on my old PC so i will need to look at the backups .... but i am sure martin has it .... and will make this for you ..... 😊
  2. What issues are you facing .... nice build btw 😊
  3. u need to use the smartstick from smartmaterials3d or i think airwold3d also have a solution..... personallyi have used the smartstick and it works really well for PP .... hope this helps :)
  4. Awesum Job @scott-har.... that looks like CF-ULTEM and its coming great ..... about the sensor i will need to get more made cause i checked yesterday and stocks were finished ...... so it will kinda take two weeks for replenishment ..... cause these are specially made ..... will update you on that ...... hope to see more pictures from you 😊
  5. U can adjust this in the preferences menu there is a menu for print area .... please change the print area there.... 😊
  6. The payment for sensor can be made via paypal and i will ship those to you..... about the motors till about 65C there wont be too much damage.... but they will wear off sooner...... so u might need to change them in like 6 months or so ..... so u can keep the Top.... because u will need atleast 65C to print small models in these materials.... for bigger models u need 90-100C ......
  7. I do sell the platinum PT100's which last longer than the E3D ones.... if u need them let me know ....
  8. All the the slots are configured for the PT100's i think even the original ultimaker bed is PT100 ...... i wouldnt really know what thermistor does E3D have and also need to know the model no ETC and also this needs to be supported in the firmware and by the board ..... maybe @tinkergnome or @gr5 would know better on this ......
  9. I am guessing that the firmware isnt actually taking two sensors for the same job...... the firmware i have given you can handle three sensors ...... bed / nozzle 1 / nozzle 2 ..... i suggest you use the nozzle 2 slot for your extra readings ..... and i strongly recommend that you check the chamber temps always with a extra sensor and external reader ...... hope this will help
  10. Really impressive job..... with the liquid cooling and all 😊 Hope to see some impressive prints from you 😊
  11. I will send u my hex which can give u about 450C on the nozzle...but the u will need the chamber warm to help it go there ..... cant just go 450C on its own ..... about steppers going too fast and all ..... i hope u havent changed any steps and all..... however if u heated the chamber too much you could have damaged the motors already and then u might need replacements..... for the file i will just send it to @gr5 i guess he will dropbox it or something ..... please be careful and measure all temps correctly ...... cause at 95-100C the UM2 enclosure will start to melt ..... and u would want an
  12. Well i had a small part to play in that..... cause they actually got me the parts from taobao 😉
  13. So need to maybe print the head again 😆, maybe i will try to use first what i made and see how it functions, if there is issues i guess can change the head only maybe its better to have the bigger cooling fans, i guess since my fan shroud is in peek, i dont need metal cause peek takes 280C without load easy 😉
  14. Thanks my Man..... Peek and Ultem is my specialisation 😉 I saw u made some changes might need to re-print that dock 😊
  15. Getting Ready 😉😊 all parts in peek and ultem1010.....now just waiting for them parts, hopefully this works even better than mark2 😉
  16. Naah its not that difficult if you use the smartmaterials3d smart stick ? Totally loved that ?
  17. I did a annealing on the PA6GF30, and the result was really nice, the parts become a bit stiffer and stronger ?
  18. Thats their PPGF30 i printed the benchy as just a bench mark test, their Nylon is outstanding to, i will post the print settings soon, i would say buy this with confidence, these work, just use a good nozzle, i use Carbide ones, Rubies also work fine, however these materials are for proper engineering parts not really for decorative pieces or stuff, so if you have customers like ours who want really strong and resistant parts, these materials fit the bill ??
  19. They have two kinds nylon(PA6GF30) and PP(PPGF30) i have the settings for bed and nozzle will put them up and yes a warm chamber helps, and both have to be dried pre-printing, so maybe getting a print dry or your own DIY dry feeding helps, will put the part pictures here soon for everyone to see ?
  20. For this you have to modify the mark2 firmware, because the normal mark2 firmware doenst allow you to use the E3DV6, so only tinkergnome can help you with that, because only he has the firmware and knows how to change it ?
  21. I have used this material and its fantastic, needed to use the smartmaterials smartstick for PPGF30, PA sticks to the glue easy, and parts are very very strong, kinda u can use them direct, no need making protos and then production, u can print and use straight here, and not worry about a thing ?
  22. Aan so you are trying the E3DV6, please be careful about changing the timing to reach the temperature, also can u explain in more detail when are you getting this error, is it at the start or is it when you put a target temperature in preheat or while attempting a print, let us know so we can help you.
  23. you can note down the settings somewhere and then if you wish to revert back to the original you can copy them back, however two v6's plus titans i guess you will be pulling much weight, maybe you need 8mm rods then, hope this helps :)
  24. Hi, please try using a lower version of cura say 3.2.5 because 3.4 i think doesn't support Tinker, i was trying to install the Tinker firmware for my brothers printer, and that was the single one not mark-2, and i had this same issue, so i think the only way is a down version of cura and you can install, hope this helps ?
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