rajilpahuja
-
Posts
129 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by rajilpahuja
-
-
8 hours ago, roromiao said:
我不知道我能否在这获得帮助
我在给我的第三方UM2机型实施Mark2计划的时候。遇到了一些问题。。
由于我得机器比较特别。。我想我可能需要修改Tinker的代码 来适应当前的机器
该机型是基于UM2制作的 主板为2.1.1 控制器为2.1版
我把热端升级成了UM2+ [UM2O]
机器上当前使用的代码仍然为Umtimaker2Marlin
我想我需要给Tinker做一些修改 才可以让Mark2 搭配的Tinker 固件工作起来
From Google Translate:
I don't know if I can get help here.
I am implementing the Mark2 program for my third-party UM2 model. I have encountered some problems. .
Because I have a special machine. . I think I might need to modify the Tinker code to fit the current machine.
This model is based on UM2. The motherboard is 2.1.1 controller version 2.1.
I upgraded the hot end to UM2+ [UM2O]
The code currently used on the machine is still Umtimaker2Marlin
I think I need to make some changes to Tinker to get the Tinker firmware that Mark2 works with.
What issues are you facing .... nice build btw 😊
-
u need to use the smartstick from smartmaterials3d or i think airwold3d also have a solution..... personallyi have used the smartstick and it works really well for PP .... hope this helps :)
-
1 hour ago, scott-har said:
Morning all,
I know this thread went a little quiet so just wanted to update everyone with progress..
Finally got to the bottom of my issues with the temp sensor on the hotend.. the fibreglass sleeves had burnt up and were causing a short.
My extruder motor was getting so hot it was missing steps so that's now externally mounted. The rest are still internal for now.
I'm now printing directly on the aluminum plate I installed to house the bed temp sensor with dimafix spray at 130c.
Myhot end is running a 380-390c and the internal temp of the machine reaches 55c.
I reinstalled 1 of the side fans which is helping reduce stringing and re-routed the plumbing and cabling to be on the back/left to stop it crashing into the belts and give a bigger build area.
The watercooling system is holding up extremely well and has be the most reliable part so far 😄😄.
I'm now able to print and begin material testing!! Thank you to @rajilpahuja and @gr5 for all the help with the build and firmware.
Awesum Job @scott-har.... that looks like CF-ULTEM and its coming great ..... about the sensor i will need to get more made cause i checked yesterday and stocks were finished ...... so it will kinda take two weeks for replenishment ..... cause these are specially made ..... will
update you on that ...... hope to see more pictures from you 😊
-
12 minutes ago, scott-har said:
Hi All,
I'm using Cura 4.0 and getting this weird error message any ideas how to get passed it?
I've double checked the machine print area vs cura and they are the same.
Had to make a spring loaded insert to stop the reel uncoiling today too. The CF-Ultem kept snapping so I've moved away from that for now.
U can adjust this in the preferences menu there is a menu for print area .... please change the print area there.... 😊
-
27 minutes ago, scott-har said:
Hi Gents,
Without following the conversation yesterday I figured out all three ports needed a connection so I de-soldered the sensor off the original Ultimaker bed and got things working!
@rajilpahuja how do I purchase the Platinium PT100's? Can you supply with a 1m lead?
I'll upload some pics soon.
Yesterday I held the machine table at 160 degrees all day and the head at 380 degrees to stress test the water cooling system and see if anything started to leak. No leaks and the the third sensor I mounted near the two stepper motors which read up to 51 degrees on the preheat screen.
Do you think they will get too hot?
Do you think I will need to keep the top cover on or shall I do away with it?
The payment for sensor can be made via paypal and i will ship those to you..... about the motors till about 65C there wont be too much damage.... but they will wear off sooner...... so u might need to change them in like 6 months or so ..... so u can keep the Top.... because u will need atleast 65C to print small models in these materials.... for bigger models u need 90-100C ......
-
5 hours ago, gr5 said:
@scott-har Check that the PT100s are around 107 ohms at room temperature.
@rajilpahuja Is your machine showing 2 heaters or 3 when you go to "preheat"?
By default UM2 has one bed and one nozzle heater but you might have a sensor for a second nozzle and if so then scott needs to put something on temp2 to fool the printer into thinking there is a 3rd PT100.
Ofcourse both temp are active... cause i had based my firmware on the Mark2 😊
-
14 minutes ago, scott-har said:
Hi @rajilpahuja,
I get the error with the PT100's... maybe one is damaged perhaps.
I will play around again and see how I get on.
I do sell the platinum PT100's which last longer than the E3D ones.... if u need them let me know ....
-
1
-
-
7 minutes ago, scott-har said:
Hello @rajilpahuja,
Could you tell me which type of sensors the firmware is set up for?
I'm using a PT100 in "TEMP1" and a PT100 in "TEMP3" currently.
Ideally, I'd like to use PT100 in "TEMP1" and the 104-GT2 "E3D" thermistor in "TEMP3". Then i can then use my spare PT100 to monitor the chamber temp.
I damaged the connector on the motherboard so that's, why there are now two orange wires, soldered into it. Long term I think I'll do the same for all 3 sensors as the wires seem a little short on the E3D stuff.
Regards, Scott
All the the slots are configured for the PT100's i think even the original ultimaker bed is PT100 ...... i wouldnt really know what thermistor does E3D have and also need to know the model no ETC and also this needs to be supported in the firmware and by the board ..... maybe @tinkergnome or @gr5 would know better on this ......
-
9 hours ago, scott-har said:
Hi Gents, I've flashed the firmware and now have a temp error. I'm using 2x PT100's for the bed and hot end. I hooked up the E3D thermistor and still had the error.
What sensor(s) do I need to switch out?
Best Regards, Scott
I am guessing that the firmware isnt actually taking two sensors for the same job...... the firmware i have given you can handle three sensors ...... bed / nozzle 1 / nozzle 2 ..... i suggest you use the nozzle 2 slot for your extra readings ..... and i strongly recommend that you check the chamber temps always with a extra sensor and external reader ...... hope this will help
-
7 hours ago, scott-har said:
HI @gr5 and @rajilpahuja,
I have read your post with interest over the last few days. I'm happy for you to send any files directly (sflower@harwin.co.uk)
Long term I will only want to run the bed at 160max but would want headroom to experiment for short prints up 190-200c.
Here are some pictures of what I've built for reference and enjoyment.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zlzNuhZ9r2qzYh9ahZYqem_Vbjwa1NjX?usp=sharing
I've installed a mean well 14.6A 24v power supply for the hotend Mosfet and main board.
There's a small 12v unit to run the water cooling fan and pump.
Then the Omron SSR turns the AC supply on and off for the heated bed.
The E3D bed Sensor used is the 104-GT2 "E3D" thermistor but I couldn't get that to work with the coding so the workaround was to install the 10mm plate on top and insert the PT100 in the side. (From E3D website... Bed power Power: 500W (200x200) Max operating temp: 200°C/Peak temp: 250°C).
Best Regards, Scott
Really impressive job..... with the liquid cooling and all 😊 Hope to see some impressive prints from you 😊
-
8 hours ago, scott-har said:
Hi All,
I have a UM2+ which I've upgraded in the following way....
Mechanical
Fully enclosed top and front panel.
Converted to 1.75mm filament (ender 3 extruder hardware) and capricorn bowden tube.
Hotend
E3D V6 all metal hotend with pure copper volcano, 60Watt cartridge, 24v 30A Makers 3D mosfet. PT100 sensor
Custom water cooling with 120mm radiator.
Heated bed
E3D 215x215 AC Silicone bed controlled by solid state relay. 10mm aluminium plate on top with PT100 inserted in the side of it.
The issue I'm faced with is the software limits for temperatures. I've had the nozzle up to 385c and the bed up to 190c (measured with fluke infrared thermometer gun - PT100 sensor measure 115c as it wasn't inserted into build plate).
I've been using a E3D hex file and a
Eeprom detailed here. https://wiki.e3d-online.com/E3D-v6_on_Ultimaker_2.
The stepper motor for the extruder goes sooo fast it stops and beeps loudly.
I've tried about 10-15 hex files and marlin uploads with limited success or various issues.
So I'm reaching out to others who have ventured on similar pursuits with the following proposal.... I will happily pay via Paypal for someone who can demonstrate a working code on a UM2+ or assist me with finishing the coding to get things running correctly.
Thanks in advance.
Best Regards, Scott
I will send u my hex which can give u about 450C on the nozzle...but the u will need the chamber warm to help it go there ..... cant just go 450C on its own ..... about steppers going too fast and all ..... i hope u havent changed any steps and all..... however if u heated the chamber too much you could have damaged the motors already and then u might need replacements..... for the file i will just send it to @gr5 i guess he will dropbox it or something ..... please be careful and measure all temps correctly ...... cause at 95-100C the UM2 enclosure will start to melt ..... and u would want any melting or fires around ..... be safe while doing these kinda materials ...... use proper equipment like face masks(for those bad gasses etc) also gloves for handling the equipment at its very hot ..... and i wouldnt suggest taking the bed over 170C unless u have better solders ....... ur bed solders might start to give in above those temps....
-
2 hours ago, Garufa said:
thank you !!. this is the link, perhaps faster than using an agent (still waiting for one part)
Well i had a small part to play in that..... cause they actually got me the parts from taobao 😉
-
56 minutes ago, yyh1002 said:
I pushed v1.5 update on GitHub. It is mainly to replace the 19mm short bearing with a long one for better reliability.
Changes:
1. Both X and Y bearings are now both 35mm long, same as the original UM2 printhead. It is more stable and reliable. The previous 19mm Y bearing had a few downsides: only misumi sells ones with sufficient build quality, they wear faster than long bearing, etc. To make proper space for the long bearing, I had to increase the X offset of nozzles from 18mm to 19mm, and the housing from 35x35 to 38x38. This resulted in 2mm less X print area but it is well worth it.
2. New fan shroud design. Blower fan changed from 3015 to 3510. Homemade aluminium cover by soda can at the bottom. The fan shroud can be printed with lower temp materials such as modified PC (heat resistance of 90C). 3510 12v fan is easier to source with more consistent stock. For those of you who already bought the 3015 fans, there is still a fan shroud variant to use 3015 with v1.5.
3. Hotend fan changed from 2510 to 3010. Not really for performance improvement. 3010 5v is much easier to source and cheaper.
4. Lever dock is simplified with only one tab. This gives the lever freedom to sweep back at full speed, not limited by the travel speed of printhead. Nozzle 2 falls back to it's position with optimal momentum.
5. BOM is hence modified with the new fans and bearing. The hotend, spring and bolts stays the same.
6. Firmware update for v1.5 moved to dedicated repository.
I may or may not update the assembly images because people can still figure out how to assemble v1.5 based on the original images.
I'll upload the jig and instructions for making the aluminium bottom cover later.
So need to maybe print the head again 😆, maybe i will try to use first what i made and see how it functions, if there is issues i guess can change the head only maybe its better to have the bigger cooling fans, i guess since my fan shroud is in peek, i dont need metal cause peek takes 280C without load easy 😉
-
34 minutes ago, yyh1002 said:
Cheers
Wow, that the best PEEK print quality I've ever seen.
Thanks my Man..... Peek and Ultem is my specialisation 😉 I saw u made some changes might need to re-print that dock 😊
-
Getting Ready 😉😊 all parts in peek and ultem1010.....now just waiting for them parts, hopefully this works even better than mark2 😉
-
1
-
-
4 minutes ago, AD_XSTRAND_OC said:
If I'm deciding GFPP or GFPA6 it comes down to size and surface finish. If I'm looking for something with amazing surface finish I would choose the GFPP. If the part is large or the surface area that is touching the build plate consumes most of the area I would choose GFPA6 as there is no warping issues. GFPP can be tricky to print large flat parts.
Naah its not that difficult if you use the smartmaterials3d smart stick ? Totally loved that ?
-
1 minute ago, SandervG said:
I will also add a few questions that came in via different channels. Did you experiment if annealing has any effect on prints made with XSTRAND?
I did a annealing on the PA6GF30, and the result was really nice, the parts become a bit stiffer and stronger ?
-
1
-
-
Thats their PPGF30 i printed the benchy as just a bench mark test, their Nylon is outstanding to, i will post the print settings soon, i would say buy this with confidence, these work, just use a good nozzle, i use Carbide ones, Rubies also work fine, however these materials are for proper engineering parts not really for decorative pieces or stuff, so if you have customers like ours who want really strong and resistant parts, these materials fit the bill ??
-
56 minutes ago, mastory said:
My limited experience printing nylon has shown me the paramount importance of keeping nylon in a dry condition - to a greater extent than other materials.
Does Xstrand retain this requirement? What are the storage requirements with xstrand to achieve reliable print results? Is there a recommended procedure to keep opened filament dry? A procedure to dry out material that has been compromised by environmental exposure?
Where are some pictures of some xstrand printed parts?
Is xstrand resistant to gasoline and/or mineral oils?
Recommended printing temperature and cooling settings? Nozzle, bed and chamber temps? Does a heated chamber help or hurt?
Thanks
They have two kinds nylon(PA6GF30) and PP(PPGF30) i have the settings for bed and nozzle will put them up and yes a warm chamber helps, and both have to be dried pre-printing, so maybe getting a print dry or your own DIY dry feeding helps, will put the part pictures here soon for everyone to see ?
-
26 minutes ago, ixenriquez said:
I cant do anything after install the Mark2 Firmware. It immediately goes to the error and doesn't allow anything else.
For this you have to modify the mark2 firmware, because the normal mark2 firmware doenst allow you to use the E3DV6, so only tinkergnome can help you with that, because only he has the firmware and knows how to change it ?
-
I have used this material and its fantastic, needed to use the smartmaterials smartstick for PPGF30, PA sticks to the glue easy, and parts are very very strong, kinda u can use them direct, no need making protos and then production, u can print and use straight here, and not worry about a thing ?
-
1 hour ago, ixenriquez said:
No, I was able to print perfectly fine before. I did not compile firmware for the Mark 2. I just mentioned that I modified the Ultimaker2Marlin firmware as the instructions given online to replace the extruders for E3D Titian extruders. I also increased the Z_Max_Pos to accommodate mu custom case. So everything works perfectly fine when I manually modify it in arduino for Ultimaker2Marlin. When I try and install any version on the available Mark 2 firmware hex files, I get the previously mentioned error. The earlier 17.02 gives me Error - Stopped Temp sensor free Go to: Ultimaker.com/ER01 and 17.06 & 17.09 give me Error - Stopped Temp sensor 2228 bytes free Go to: Ultimaker.com/ER01. I have tested it against four different temp sensors. Seems to be some sort of software issue from what I figure.
Aan so you are trying the E3DV6, please be careful about changing the timing to reach the temperature, also can u explain in more detail when are you getting this error, is it at the start or is it when you put a target temperature in preheat or while attempting a print, let us know so we can help you.
-
2 hours ago, Yaki said:
Hi,
If I use 2x E3D v6 hotends with titan extruders will I have problems when uploading the Tinkergnome's firmware? According to me I will loose the prior settings, is that a problem?
Thanks
you can note down the settings somewhere and then if you wish to revert back to the original you can copy them back, however two v6's plus titans i guess you will be pulling much weight, maybe you need 8mm rods then, hope this helps :)
-
1
-
-
8 hours ago, mrsallen2000 said:
I am trying to complete the Mark2 upgrade on a Ultimaker 2. I installed two new Bondtech QR extruders, new printheads and expansion board. I believe I have all the physical parts of the upgrade completed but am now trying to update the firmware. I am running Cura 3.4. As indicated on the Mark2 site I have done the following:
Download the Mark2 firmware from github. Connect you printer via USB. In Cura, select "Manage printers" -> "Upgrade firmware" -> "Upload custom firmware".
However once I locate the file hex file and push update it brings up the updating firmware window, disconnects the printer and sits there. What am I doing wrong?
Also when the printhead tries to home the fan runs into the right side of the printer and tells me the x/y switch is broke.
Any help you can give would be appreciated.
Thank you
Hi,
please try using a lower version of cura say 3.2.5 because 3.4 i think doesn't support Tinker, i was trying to install the Tinker firmware for my brothers printer, and that was the single one not mark-2, and i had this same issue, so i think the only way is a down version of cura and you can install, hope this helps ?
-
2
-
TOPIC FOR PRINTING HT FILAMENTS ( PEEK/ULTEM 1010/ULTEM 9085/PPSU/PSU) ON UM2+
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Hi There ,
I gave the mod to bondtech ..... you will have to contact Mr Martin there .... i think he will be happy to provide you this ..... in the meanwhile i will search for the file as well .... it was made on my old PC so i will need to look at the backups .... but i am sure martin has it .... and will make this for you ..... 😊