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ultradryan

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  1. ah great idea i will look into it. Am curious if something is wrong mechanically with the active leveling that causes that.
  2. I was having trouble printing with "extra fine" setting (default, with brim, PLA) The print would always fail from start because the brim wont stick well to bed. it wont happen often when the i print with "fine" or "normal" setting. After a lot of experiment, I discovered that the print will work just fine if i do not do active leveling and only do manual leveling instead. To a closer look, what seemed to be the problem is that after active leveling, printer will adjust and brings the nozzle too high from bed so that the brim wont stick, and this has be
  3. PLA. small object but still there's some serious wrapping. 190C at 60mm/s. Fan is at 100% and are working. other settings are more or less using default CURA fine print with skirt. What more can I do improve the print?
  4. Opps, after a few more tests, i did find out, manual leveling really is okay, as long as no active leveling is overriding it.
  5. here's the situation: Z Distance between the nozzle in Core 1 and Core 2 seemed not remembered by the firmware, or it is ignored during print, or something went wrong during calibration. Core 1 will always be well calibrated and printing well, however, Core 2 will always got pressed too close to the bed that blocks the filaments from coming out. After Active leveling, Core 2 nozzle always pressed too close the bed during print, as if it is ignoring the result done during calibration.. after running more of tests, it seems that Manual Leveling does not h
  6. while manual calibration, do u leave the nozzle 2 a little bit higher on purpose so to compensate the problem that it press too close to bed? Because in my case, manual calibration still doesn't help much, I guess I will hv to lift the nozzle 2 a little bit higher during Z caibration so that is room for it to press against the bed, but that sounds very unscientific.
  7. Yes i am running the latest firmware. The Nozzles are always cleaned, I also switch a another core into nozzle 2 just to test it out, same issue persist. What happens here is that the Nozzle 1 will always print well, but Nozzle 2 will always get too close to bed, blocking filament. The distance between the 2 nozzles are wrong, somehow, and I do not know how to set it manually or so. Now I can only print with Nozzle 1, because Nozzle 2 always be in a wrong Z calibration.... This is so disappointing, the machine has been running ok for the past year, but problems here and t
  8. I have turned off active leveling, it still doesnt work. Problem is either that the firmware seemed to not remembering the settings of my manual leveling, or that the Z calibration between 2 nozzle was somehow wrong.
  9. I was doing manual leveling and follow it with active leveling once a time every month, mostly. AT first, I thought my Ultimaker3 printer's active leveling started to fail. After a few more times, even manual leveling isn't helping, I guess. No matter how i manually level the nozzles, or use active leveling, the printer will always press nozzle 2 too close to buildplate once print is started. I can see the nozzle was so close that it got pushed back a bit upwards, so close that filament cannot print out of it. Is there a fix to this? I am not sur
  10. i am facing similar issue, and there's seem to be no fix
  11. print as support is now a bug it doesnt work.
  12. I was doing manual leveling and follow it with active leveling once a time every month, mostly. No matter how i manual level the nozzles, whenever active leveling is done, the printer will always press nozzle 2 too close to buildplate once print is started. I can see the nozzle was so close that it got pushed back a bit upwards, so close that filament cannot print out of it. Core 1 will always be fine and well calibrated, while Core 2 will always be too close to bed, after active leveling. Either the active leveling is buggy, or the result of Z calibration be
  13. i have thrown away some more obviously layer shifted ones. but in the photo there's a layer where up to a point the print shifted a bit to the right. this usually happens when printing two-leged models from bottom up, perhaps somehow the nozzle knocked the print a bit and the two towers doesnt match up at some point and show shifting. Printing slower somehow prevent this from happening
  14. Thanks, How much % of salt do u add to the water? My bed is manually leveled, any other settings I should look into perfecting the print, if printing in lower temp wont help much?
  15. I am usually printing small figurines so i didn't walk into much warping issues. until now that i have to print a box-like object with a large base. It seems the normal default print settings that worked in the past doesnt fit now. I was printing with mostly default "fine" profile on UM3 with 0.4 nozzle PLA 185C at 50mm/s, with a Brim, 60C build plate as usual. Sometimes the base of the model will warp up so far as it lift some of the brim around it off the build plate. Lot's of tutorials out there talk about wrapping issues, some mentioned very different/contra
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