CalebPetersenPhD

Never mind, I realized that the silicone sleeve has long, thin tabs that surround this sheet metal part and hold it in place relative to the holes in the capacitive sensor tray.

Hi, my UM S5 extruded plastic up past the silicone seal and into the space in the print head surrounding the extruders. I eventually got the plastic out, but I seem to have broken something in the lower fan bracket tray, because there is a sheet metal part floating around, and I cannot get the new silicone seal to lock into the various slits for the tabs on the seal as a result of this thing floating around. My S5 is the older version (has the UltiBot logo on the sides, rather than the newer version with the U) if that's relevant. Here's a brief video clip showing the sheet metal part that floats freely around: Strangely enough, the replacement capacitive sensor tray doesn't seem to include this free-floating sheet metal piece (https://fbrc8.com/products/capacitive-sensor-parts-ums5-s3). Does anyone have any thoughts on how to reattach this piece or get replacement parts? Thanks, Caleb

What are your retraction speeds and distances for each extruder? You probably noticed this, but they will be different for each extruder (make sure to go to both extruders' respective tabs and set them appropriately in Cura). Sometimes retracting too much and too fast has paradoxical effects.

Hi, has anyone ever used the Material Station for the S5 to expand the effective number of materials you can print with during a print to 5? Kind of like how the Mosaic Palette and Prusa MMU(2S) material-switchers work (but those unfortunately only work with 1.75mm filaments-yes you can get an adapter, but because it uses a Teflon tube you're limited to a max print temperature of 260°C). I'm sure this isn't a formally supported use of the Material Station, but it would greatly add to the functionality of the Material Station and justify its high cost. I don't see why it wouldn't work mechanically, though I don't own one at present to experiment with. Thanks, Caleb Petersen, PhD

Thanks, good to know about the spacers. Well, this shaft (the one running left-to-right towards the front of the machine) keeps starting to come out of its alignment (so far it hasn't come out of alignment so much that I can't just push it back in, but if I leave it unattended for enough time I fear that it may pop completely out). I suppose the belts and sprockets must be misaligned somehow but I couldn't find any instructions online as to how to realign them (?)

Hi, on my Ultimaker S5, the shaft that runs left to right that is closest to the front of the machine has been popping out of the bearing on the right side, (causing the long right belt to fall off the sprockets). I can pop the shaft back into the bearing easily enough, but on the opposite side (left side) I see a black, cylindrical plastic sleeve that I assume should go into the left bearing that I can't figure out how to get onto the shaft. I couldn't find any maintenance instructions--what do I do here? Does the black, plastic sleeve bearing need to go over the shaft as it sits inside of the ball bearing? Also, any ideas how this happened? I see that a set screw is missing on the front-left sprocket for the shaft that runs front-to-back on the left side, and one of the belts has worn down a lot from misalignment, not sure if there's anything else I should look for. Thanks, Caleb

Hi, is there any way to change the extruder used for support from one model to the other? E.g. suppose I have 2 parts to print on a dual-extruder machine (Ultimaker S5): I want to print part A with material 1 as main material and material 2 as support, and simultaneously print part B with material 2 as main material and material 1 as support. Is this possible, short of modeling my own support? Thanks, Caleb

LOL! Well in fact 9T labs used to have a modification for one Ultimaker printer, I believe the Ultimaker 2+, that could lay down continuous fiber much like the MarkForged. However, they switched to a different printer now for their final product, and the whole thing is hugely overpriced if you ask me. Then again, so is the MarkForged, especially considering how crappy their slicer is and how little customization there can be. $15k for $800 worth of hardware? Nah

You guys are terrible for getting my hopes up 😜 Ok, makes sense we probably won't see a new printer this year. I'd love to be proven wrong though 🤩

Hi, any rumors if Ultimaker will be coming out with a new printer this year? They released the S5 in fall 2018 and S3 in fall 2019... Thanks!

Hey, still available?

Hi, if I have the "adaptive layer heights" experimental feature turned on and if I have the object floating above the bed, z>0 (with support being generated), slicing generates no G-code and predicts it will take 0 minutes to print the object. However, if I lower the object to the bed (set z=0) it slices fine with adaptive layers. Object also slices fine with z>0 if adaptive layers are off. I can't post the object but have tried multiple parts so I assume there is nothing wrong with my file.

But all non-infill extrusions are not underfilled at all. Infill only ends up being grossly underfilled when I set a larger infill line thickness (e.g. 0.6 for a 0.4mm nozzle). Whereas Simplify3D produces G-code that makes proper infill lines when I use a default line width of 0.48mm for a 0.4mm nozzle and have the infill line width further inflated by around 130%. People have speculated that there is a bug in Cura that causes it to not increase the fill rate commensurate with how the infill line thickness is increased.

Looks like Cura 4.1 Beta doesn't add this feature 😪 Simplify3D has very few advantages over Cura, but proper, fat infill lines when you assign a fat line width is one of them. Seems like an easy fix, hope this feature gets added.

No, I haven't ever tried to calibrate it! I have performed nylon cleanings and cleaned out the gearbox but since reducing acceleration and infill speed at least solves the problem of infill underextrusion for a standard line width that's a start...

Actually, I'm often using only 20% infill and just want really thick, wide infill lines like I can easily get in Simplify3D. (In fact, the one and only thing that Simplify3D seems better at than Cura is infill! Kind of pathetic how far behind S3D has fallen.) When I increase the infill line width in Cura, it doesn't seem to make the infill lines any thicker in prints... and this is with infill print speed and acceleration turned down. With the default settings, my infills would be horribly underextruded, a problem that people have had with Cura for years.

Dang... well let's hope they get it added in there! In the meantime, maybe I could create dummy extruders for my UM3, assign them the various roles (wall, infill, etc.) and flow rates, and then post-process the Gcode with a simple find-and-replace to change all T3, T4, etc. to T0. Looks like I can change the number of extruders in the ultimaker3.def.json file.

Oh, got it @smartavionics! Is there any way to set deafults in a text editor for those flow settings so that even if they don't appear in the UI they're still used by the CuraEngine?

I agree Fred, I too am constantly playing with all my profile settings. I think it would be even better if the settings window popped out and had several tabs as in Simplify3D. But it's a minor complaint in the grand scheme of things for me. Cura is now leaps and bounds better than S3D.

Thanks for the response @smartavionics, I looked into it a bit more and it seems like that page you linked is saying that you can edit expert.cfg in /resources/setting_visibility by adding the following lines to the [material] section: wall_material_flow wall_0_material_flow wall_x_material_flow skin_material_flow roofing_material_flow infill_material_flow skirt_brim_material_flow support_material_flow support_interface_material_flow support_roof_material_flow support_bottom_material_flow And also moving prime_tower_flow from [dual] to [material]. But when I do this in my Windows installation of Cura 4.0 and then relaunch Cura, the flow settings still aren't available... do I have to build it from source?

Hi, is there any way to selectively increase the flow rate just for infill? I know you can change line widths for different features (infill, top/bottom, etc.), which is great, but with larger line widths for infill (and even with moderate print velocities and reduced print accelerations for infill) I'm a bit of infill underextrusion. (Print temperatures are more than sufficient) For that matter, being able to selectively increase the temperature for infill lines would be cool. I suppose this could be done with dual extruders (use a larger nozzle, extra flow multiplier, and higher temperature just for infill)...

Thanks for the responses, guys. I'm glad I'm not the only one with this problem. Mine's even worse since the plastic was polycarbonate and not a low-temp one like PLA. In my case, the raft stuck like a rock to the bed--it was hard to remove it even with a razor blade. BUT, the print separated from the raft very easily, despite a 0mm airgap! Any ideas on how to fix that? And I agree, this sounds like a design flaw that Ultimaker just won't acknowledge. It's one thing for a print to fail. it's another for that failure to be so catastrophic as to ruin two expensive extruders and God only knows what else. I emailed Ultimaker support about this and still haven't gotten a response :(

Hi guys, my 2-month-old Ultimaker has just killed itself by extruding tons of polycarbonate above the rubber seal into the chamber that holds the two extruders. Looks like this: https://imgur.com/a/Prj3M https://imgur.com/a/evaKv https://imgur.com/a/4VZli How can I fix this?? And how can I prevent it in the future? Details on what happened: -The print went fine for the first 8 layers, then I left it. It was going to take 15 hours to complete -What remained of the print showed a bit of warpage up from the brim, perhaps causing it to separate from the brim. Also, a few layers were shifted, so may be it got knocked off the brim from this layer shift. -What remained of the "print" had come clean off the bed and fallen to the bottom of the printer. -And, as you can see, the printer extruded so much polycarbonate into its chamber that it forced the door open, pushing the door into the print bed so hard that the y axis rod got forced out of its plastic holders! ;'( Details on print settings: -Printed polycarbonate filament at 275°C in a HardCore Solex, and Airwolf Hydrofill support material (great stuff BTW) in a BB 0.4mm. I'd made small parts with this combination before and was really impressed with the quality. -I'd never changed the nozzle on the Solex, so it's not like I didnt' tighten it down enough and let plastic leak past the nozzle or something. -Bed was at 115°C, and I used the plastic front door from the "advanced printing kit" (super overpriced BTW :(). Didn't cover the top of the printer, though maybe I should have. -I used blue PEI coating from FlashForge printers over glass, and the polycarbonate raft stuck super well to that. -I used a raft with 0mm airgap and 0mm z overlap after first layer for maximum adhesion between support and brim. -There was a 0mm z gap between dissolvable support and polycarbonate. The support and printed objects stuck super well. (Support to raft: not so much, despite having a 0mm gap. WTF?). -I printed with auto-level on, and anyways the first 8 layers were done perfectly, so there shouldn't have been any problems with the lifting mechanism for the support head. -Layer height 0.15mm, print speed 40mm/s

Hi guys, we're interested in an Ultimaker 3 as we've heard great things about its print quality, but we're also hoping to be able to print with finer nozzles to really make use of your positional accuracy as well as dissolvable support. Are those in the works? (Saw you just released the 0.8mm print core). If not, we will probably go with the BCN3D Sigma R17. I've heard conflicting things about its print quality but at least it has independent extruders and small-diameter nozzles... Thanks, Caleb