pbackx

There's no way to configure that on the UM3. I can't even figure out the MAC address that I could maybe use to lock this down. 15 other devices don't have an issue with the router BTW...

Since upgrading my wireless router, my Ultimaker 3 is no longer able to connect to the wireless network. All other devices still connect fine, so I'm certain this is not an issue with the router. I can step through the setup wizard ok. The printer finds my network and I can enter the password. However, the next step always fails. I have done a factory reset just to be sure if that was the issue, but it did not solve the problem. Printer is running on firmware 5.2.11.20190503 which I believe is the latest version. I have downloaded the log to USB and isolated t

I have the 3 printer, not the S3. And I'm really happy with it. It just works. Every time. But I can say one thing. If you want reliable, stay away from PVA. It's a very difficult material to store properly (has to be dried out almost daily) and to print with (you must have enough PVA printed every layer, otherwise the nozzle will clog even if the material is in perfect condition). If you can, use the Breakaway material. I love this material. It's a lot easier to work with and it works just as well if not better than PVA. The only reason to use PVA is if you have really

This message is a safeguard. It indicates that your printer has been heating the nozzle for some time, but the measured temperature is not rising. This can happen when the temperature measurement is broken. If the printer would not shut down in that case, it could cause a fire. In your case, you are probably getting this error because the printer is unable to reach the requested temperature. Check your printer's specifications and maybe contact your seller.

Google 'hot pull' and 'cold pull' to clean the nozzle. If this keeps happening frequently after you clean the nozzle, you probably need to raise the printing temperature a bit.

Sorry I can't help you. I doubt this can be configured. There's a similar issue with the bottom layer that can be really visible with some of the more reflective filaments

I think that's the correct way to go about it. It was also the best solution I found when I wanted to change the active leveling distance slightly:

I can't really explain everything, but these look like extrusion issues. What you can try: * Clean the heads using hot and cold pull method * Check the temperatures at which you are printing. Maybe increase them a bit? * If printing PVA is making popping/hissing noises, it's probably because the PVA has absorbed too much moisture. Try to dry it on the build plate, or with another technique. Keep in mind: PVA is a very difficult material. You have to keep it in a bag as much as possible and not expose it to air for too long. On my UM3 I have the same problem as your 2

In that case, it's maybe easier to print a raft?

I would guess that those are indeed infill, but since you already tried to change it, I'm not sure... There are a number of options you can try: Change your wall thickness and/or the number of shells until this effect disappears (it looks like you already tried it) Change infill pattern to circular Maybe this model is suitable for the spiralize mode?

Maybe another point of reference: PLA and PVA I print straight to the glass, nothing extra and no brim. I clean the glass plate fairly regularly. Usually just some random window cleaner I have. If the weather is good outside, I also use acetone, but hate to use this indoors because it smells awful. Bigger items may warp in the corners. For those I add a brim and sometimes hairspray or 3dlac. Afterwards, I just leave the hairspray on until the next cleaning (it has never interfered with the following prints, so why bother)

I don't print with Nylon, but I would guess it works similarly. I just put the role in a cardboard box on the heated bed. A proper dry box like @Ryan8696 would be even better, because you can keep printing while the filament is drying.

Yes, good idea ? I always put the PVA on my heated bed at 55°C for half an hour before I start printing. If it's been more than a day or two, I put it on there for at least 2 hours.

This may or may not answer your question. But if you can change the model, I would add a fillet around that cylinder: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fillet_(mechanics) In general, when designing models for 3D printing, you want to add fillets everywhere and probably also round all the corners a bit.

This is a great result. How did you manually slice that third color? Did you use the CuraEngine branch by Tim or some other trick?