pbackx

In that case, it's maybe easier to print a raft?

I would guess that those are indeed infill, but since you already tried to change it, I'm not sure... There are a number of options you can try: Change your wall thickness and/or the number of shells until this effect disappears (it looks like you already tried it) Change infill pattern to circular Maybe this model is suitable for the spiralize mode?

Maybe another point of reference: PLA and PVA I print straight to the glass, nothing extra and no brim. I clean the glass plate fairly regularly. Usually just some random window cleaner I have. If the weather is good outside, I also use acetone, but hate to use this indoors because it smells awful. Bigger items may warp in the corners. For those I add a brim and sometimes hairspray or 3dlac. Afterwards, I just leave the hairspray on until the next cleaning (it has never interfered with the following prints, so why bother)

I don't print with Nylon, but I would guess it works similarly. I just put the role in a cardboard box on the heated bed. A proper dry box like @Ryan8696 would be even better, because you can keep printing while the filament is drying.

Yes, good idea ? I always put the PVA on my heated bed at 55°C for half an hour before I start printing. If it's been more than a day or two, I put it on there for at least 2 hours.

This may or may not answer your question. But if you can change the model, I would add a fillet around that cylinder: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fillet_(mechanics) In general, when designing models for 3D printing, you want to add fillets everywhere and probably also round all the corners a bit.

This is a great result. How did you manually slice that third color? Did you use the CuraEngine branch by Tim or some other trick?

Nice setup and thanks for the details. Always interesting to read those. Just a small practical question: How do you change filament on those UM3's in the middle of the rack? With the controls on the front and the feeder on the back this must require teamwork or acrobatics :)

Do both print in an equal time? Maybe the Cura one prints quicker, which could explain that the layers are not aligned as well.

I've never seen any other color, except for the harsh white, but you may be right. I haven't tried it. How to know what JSON to send? I don't think there is a good and reliable way, except to try it out. I thought you always needed to send JSON and in case of doubt, just use the parameter name that's mentioned in the docs. So it's weird to see an example that does it differently. Maybe this used to be different and they haven't updated the documentation?

With regards to the LED color, I don't think this is supported on the UM3. These LEDs can only produce white. The name change : you need to write correct JSON in the request. Something like { "name" :"Ultimaker3" } (sorry for my short response I 'm on my mobile. Let me know if you want me to elaborate)

Yes, I've had that happen a few times too, usually with some more exotic materials (afaik never with PLA for me). I think this happens when the retraction was not done correctly and some force needs to be applied to pull the filament loose (maybe the nozzle was a bit too hot, the distance was too short or there was a bit of slippage on the extruder gear) If this happens a lot with some material, or you're worried, you can always manually pre-heat the nozzle before changing.

(I'm assuming this is an UM3) I was confused by this at first too, but this is normal. After a print, the machine will retract the filament automatically, so it doesn't need to heat the nozzle when removing the filament (it should heat the nozzle when inserting filament).

As far as I know, you can't add a new material to the Ultimaker 3 itself. However, you can add a material in Cura: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52035-manage-materials Here is some more discussion on the subject:

Exactly. Instead of abort enter "{ "target":"abort" }