pbackx

Funny that this keeps showing up in Google. Is this already possible?

There's no way to configure that on the UM3. I can't even figure out the MAC address that I could maybe use to lock this down. 15 other devices don't have an issue with the router BTW...

Since upgrading my wireless router, my Ultimaker 3 is no longer able to connect to the wireless network. All other devices still connect fine, so I'm certain this is not an issue with the router. I can step through the setup wizard ok. The printer finds my network and I can enter the password. However, the next step always fails. I have done a factory reset just to be sure if that was the issue, but it did not solve the problem. Printer is running on firmware 5.2.11.20190503 which I believe is the latest version. I have downloaded the log to USB and isolated the section that deals with the network. I can see a few error message, but I'm not sure if they matter (most important one seems to be ERROR: /sbin/ifup not found. You need to install the ifupdown package.) network-setup-log.log Can some one please help because having to run a temporary network cable is creating a dangerous situation.

I have the 3 printer, not the S3. And I'm really happy with it. It just works. Every time. But I can say one thing. If you want reliable, stay away from PVA. It's a very difficult material to store properly (has to be dried out almost daily) and to print with (you must have enough PVA printed every layer, otherwise the nozzle will clog even if the material is in perfect condition). If you can, use the Breakaway material. I love this material. It's a lot easier to work with and it works just as well if not better than PVA. The only reason to use PVA is if you have really complicated supports somewhere inside your model.

This message is a safeguard. It indicates that your printer has been heating the nozzle for some time, but the measured temperature is not rising. This can happen when the temperature measurement is broken. If the printer would not shut down in that case, it could cause a fire. In your case, you are probably getting this error because the printer is unable to reach the requested temperature. Check your printer's specifications and maybe contact your seller.

Google 'hot pull' and 'cold pull' to clean the nozzle. If this keeps happening frequently after you clean the nozzle, you probably need to raise the printing temperature a bit.

Sorry I can't help you. I doubt this can be configured. There's a similar issue with the bottom layer that can be really visible with some of the more reflective filaments

I think that's the correct way to go about it. It was also the best solution I found when I wanted to change the active leveling distance slightly:

I can't really explain everything, but these look like extrusion issues. What you can try: * Clean the heads using hot and cold pull method * Check the temperatures at which you are printing. Maybe increase them a bit? * If printing PVA is making popping/hissing noises, it's probably because the PVA has absorbed too much moisture. Try to dry it on the build plate, or with another technique. Keep in mind: PVA is a very difficult material. You have to keep it in a bag as much as possible and not expose it to air for too long. On my UM3 I have the same problem as your 2nd print: when there's not much support to print and there's a lot of retraction, it will just clog up the nozzle. The only workaround I have found is to try to increase the amount of support material that is printed. For instance, enable a prime tower. What is the other (green) material? I haven't had any issues with PLA at all. It's just PVA that is giving me headaches.

In that case, it's maybe easier to print a raft?

I would guess that those are indeed infill, but since you already tried to change it, I'm not sure... There are a number of options you can try: Change your wall thickness and/or the number of shells until this effect disappears (it looks like you already tried it) Change infill pattern to circular Maybe this model is suitable for the spiralize mode?

Maybe another point of reference: PLA and PVA I print straight to the glass, nothing extra and no brim. I clean the glass plate fairly regularly. Usually just some random window cleaner I have. If the weather is good outside, I also use acetone, but hate to use this indoors because it smells awful. Bigger items may warp in the corners. For those I add a brim and sometimes hairspray or 3dlac. Afterwards, I just leave the hairspray on until the next cleaning (it has never interfered with the following prints, so why bother)

I don't print with Nylon, but I would guess it works similarly. I just put the role in a cardboard box on the heated bed. A proper dry box like @Ryan8696 would be even better, because you can keep printing while the filament is drying.

Yes, good idea ? I always put the PVA on my heated bed at 55°C for half an hour before I start printing. If it's been more than a day or two, I put it on there for at least 2 hours.

This may or may not answer your question. But if you can change the model, I would add a fillet around that cylinder: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fillet_(mechanics) In general, when designing models for 3D printing, you want to add fillets everywhere and probably also round all the corners a bit.

This is a great result. How did you manually slice that third color? Did you use the CuraEngine branch by Tim or some other trick?

Nice setup and thanks for the details. Always interesting to read those. Just a small practical question: How do you change filament on those UM3's in the middle of the rack? With the controls on the front and the feeder on the back this must require teamwork or acrobatics :)

Do both print in an equal time? Maybe the Cura one prints quicker, which could explain that the layers are not aligned as well.

I've never seen any other color, except for the harsh white, but you may be right. I haven't tried it. How to know what JSON to send? I don't think there is a good and reliable way, except to try it out. I thought you always needed to send JSON and in case of doubt, just use the parameter name that's mentioned in the docs. So it's weird to see an example that does it differently. Maybe this used to be different and they haven't updated the documentation?

With regards to the LED color, I don't think this is supported on the UM3. These LEDs can only produce white. The name change : you need to write correct JSON in the request. Something like { "name" :"Ultimaker3" } (sorry for my short response I 'm on my mobile. Let me know if you want me to elaborate)

Yes, I've had that happen a few times too, usually with some more exotic materials (afaik never with PLA for me). I think this happens when the retraction was not done correctly and some force needs to be applied to pull the filament loose (maybe the nozzle was a bit too hot, the distance was too short or there was a bit of slippage on the extruder gear) If this happens a lot with some material, or you're worried, you can always manually pre-heat the nozzle before changing.

(I'm assuming this is an UM3) I was confused by this at first too, but this is normal. After a print, the machine will retract the filament automatically, so it doesn't need to heat the nozzle when removing the filament (it should heat the nozzle when inserting filament).

As far as I know, you can't add a new material to the Ultimaker 3 itself. However, you can add a material in Cura: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52035-manage-materials Here is some more discussion on the subject:

Exactly. Instead of abort enter "{ "target":"abort" }

I had to get used to this system too. But once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. The only thing I haven't gotten used to is the fact that the spools are on the back of the printer, so I now have my printer with the side facing forward on the desk. * Make sure that the filament is as straight as possible. Sometimes it can be pretty curled, especially the last part of a spool. * I lift the tensioner with my thumb or index finger (pull the white knob upwards) * Push in the filament until you feel the wheel is gripping it (no force is needed for this, just move it upwards) * Release the tensioner After some practice this takes me at most a minute