pbackx

There's a little more information right here (images seem to be missing, but everything should be clear): I would first try to get the /verify call working with cURL. I believe it should be as simple as adding a "--digest" parameter: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/9435678/curl-digest-command Next, you need to get it into Node-red. From what I know about this (= not much), it's based on node, so JavaScript. It looks like some of the libraries don't completely support digest authentication, so if it doesn't work, probably best to try another library. This is just the first thing that comes up: https://stackoverflow.com/questions/17110783/how-to-do-request-http-digest-auth-with-node-js

I don't really have experience with this, but I'd guess that you need to make the movement to (0,0) and back part of your start and stop scripts. So at the beginning of your stop script, store the current position of the nozzle and move it to 0,0 At the end of you start script, move it back to its previous position Sorry I can't show you Gcode, but I'm guessing some one else can help or if all else fails, Google it.

AWS has VPN connections specifically for this: https://docs.aws.amazon.com/AmazonVPC/latest/UserGuide/VPC_VPN.html I agree with ahoeben, only do this if you are sure of what you are doing.

I've had this happen too. Usually, I get two messages: first a mention that the model has been automatically scaled by 100000% and second the "model was too small" message. To be honest, I wasn't sure if these models worked in 3.1 anyway, so what I did as a workaround is to create a small OpenSCAD file to import the model, scale it up and export it again. The OpenSCAD code for this is really simple:

It's been a while since I developed anything in Node, but in general the code looks ok. How long have you waited? Maybe you're trying to post a very big file? As a first thing, I would try doing an /api/v1/auth/verify request. Just as a sanity check to test if you are correctly submitting the username and password. If that is working, maybe you can try some of the easier calls that don't need a multipart form, like setting the LED brightness? Otherwise, you may need to check your multipart form code. I know this can be complicated in many languages and it looks like the syntax is ok, but you never know. (I used Google to find this: https://github.com/request/request#multipartform-data-multipart-form-uploads )

I have never tried to open 3mf files in Cura, so I'm not sure if this is supported (some one else will probably reply with more details) However, what you can always do is convert the 3mf into STL using 3D builder: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/store/p/3d-builder/9wzdncrfj3t6 Next, you can open the STL in Cura It's an extra step, but that should work.

You can sort-of connect to it in OctoPrint, but it's not very useful. It is possible to enter the camera URL in your OctoPrint configuration, but the rest of the printer cannot be controlled from OctoPrint. So there's no way to start a print from OctoPrint or to make a timelapse (if that's what you want to do)

I can't compare, but going by your description, mine probably has the new blue-white light. I don't think you can change the color temperature, that's probably because of the actual LEDs in there. What you can change is the intensity. There's an option somewhere in the settings to lower the brightness. It's also available during the print. I have put it fairly low, but if you put it too low, the lights will start to flicker, which is even worse to my eyes (but my wife doesn't even seem to notice, so I guess that's a personal thing ).

Aha, ok, yes, I would have expected a 401, so that's fine. I see that the "parameter content type" is set to JSON. Just a value (such as "pause") is not valid JSON. Checking the link in my previous reply, I think what you need to have there is {"target": "pause"}. The provided description seems to be a bit lacking in this case.

Although a 400 is a general code, I'm going to guess that the authorization header is missing. I don't think you can do authenticated requests from within the Swagger UI (that's the thing you are using in your screenshot). You will need a tool such as Postman to do it: https://www.getpostman.com/

I don't think there's much you can do about this. As you say, this is caused by some old material that's stuck in the nozzle. A few things that can improve this: This probably speaks for itself, but make sure your nozzle is clean on the outside. When switching materials, let it extrude enough material and make sure the color has changed completely. Use different cores for different color groups (eg have a core for darker colors and one for lighter)

In general, both look fine and I wouldn't worry too much about it. But I can relate to your OCD about this ;-) There is a hack if you want to fine-tune the nozzle distance for the first layer: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/16975-active-leveling-too-close/ (it's somewhere at the bottom of the first page) It is very difficult to get the first layer aesthetically perfect on the UM3. Something which I found a lot easier on my previous Prusa i3 clone. However, the UM3 is much better in all other regards. Two things you want to do to get the silver one better (the red one is a little hard to see and judge): the lines that are not parallel to the others are caused by travel moves. I believe you need to completely disable "combing" in Cura to get rid of them. It's been some time, but I don't think there's a setting to disable this only on the first layer the waves/ripples are caused by the nozzle distance. Check out the link above to reduce them. Other tips: try with different materials. Especially with the shiny ones you can see this much better. And try other build surfaces (sometimes a little more or a little less adhesion makes a difference)

I think @yellowshark explained it well. Start by lowering the temperature and speed. There used to be a plugin to change settings based on height. I can only find this one, but I don't think it works with the latest Cura: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/swap-at-z You could increase the retraction distance, but that may create more trouble than it's worth. One more thing: it's normal that there is stringing inside the infill. Because it will not be visible anyway, there's no retraction happening when printing the infill, so that's fine.

Ok, thanks for the explanation. So if I understand it correctly, the main advantage of the 0.25 printcore is the reduced line width of the extrusion. So you get better resolution in the xy-plane.

I just installed a new 0.25 AA PrintCore on my Ultimaker 3 and loaded it with Ultimaker's silver PLA. I was expecting some very fine and detailed profiles would be available for this core, but in Cura 3.1.0 I only see a "fine (0.1mm)" profile. Initially, I thought that this was due to the other PrintCore (which is right now a 0.4 one). However, after forcing some other settings for that PrintCore, no other profiles appear. Do I have to define those profiles manually or is there something else missing from my config? Or is this not possible with PLA?

Welcome Yes, you will need to design some tolerance into your objects. With 3D printing it is very unlikely that if you make a design with no margin, it will not fit. The layers are never perfectly aligned so you will never get a perfect hole and a perfect peg. You can do a few things: Square corners can be very difficult to print exactly right, especially inner corners. Make sure to add some fillet to the corners. Check Thingiverse for calibration objects. There are complicated models, but I like this simple one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:342198 If you have an Ultimaker, you really shouldn't have to worry about E-steps and all the explanation that's on the Thingiverse page. It has all been done for you and you can just ignore all of it. The only thing you will want to fine-tune in Cura for each type of filament is the flow rate (in other slicers it's also called extrusion multiplier). This is my typical way of tuning for new filament: Set flow at 100% Print the s-plugs If I can push them together and remove them again without damaging anything, I'm done (a little bit of force is needed, but nothing extreme) If they are too loose, increase the flow by 1 or 2% and go back to 2 If they are too tight, decrease the flow by 1 or 2% and back to 2 At the end, always save a new profile with the name of the filament. You don't want to have to do this again later on. Good luck!

Hi @SandervG, sorry about the late reply. I didn't get a mail about this message. I did add the extra gcode. That way I can keep using the auto leveling features.

If you are on Windows 10, check out the 3D Builder tool that is included. It's very easy to split models in all kinds of ways. Perfect for this kind of task.

If you haven't seen it yet, the model was recently shared on YouMagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/fisher-price-explorer-wheel If you need it printed in Belgium, I can help you, but I agree with the comments above: search some one locally.

I discovered an easy way to record the stream: VLC media player. It records directly from the stream, unlike screen capture software. I've written a bit about it on my blog: http://www.streamhead.com/recording-ultimaker-3-webcam/

Yes, with the status API you should be able to get most of what you want. Check out this page: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/23283-inside-the-ultimaker-3-day-2-remote-access-part-1 The things you ask about are all available without a need to authenticate: * /api/v1/printer/status * /api/v1/printer/diagnostics With a little bit of scripting it should be fairly easy to copy that to a database. I created a small Jupyter notebook to show you how it can be done: https://github.com/pbackx/UM3-collector

There are a few ways to record the webcam stream. If you are technical and know how to run Python scripts, you should look into this script: https://github.com/unlimitedbacon/um3timelapse If you are not technical, there's only one difficult step, and that is finding the IP address of your Ultimaker printer. You can get this from your printer's menu: * Open the "System" section * Now pick "Network" * When you select "Connection status", the IP address is shown at the bottom. It will be 4 numbers with dots in between. After you have the IP address, you can open this URL in your browser to verify it: http://:8080/?action=stream For my printer, that is http://192.168.0.151:8080/?action=stream But for your printer it will be different. Now there are a few options to record the video. The cheapest and quickest is probably to use Camstudio to grab the video from the screen. Camstudio is a free and opensource application that allows you to easily record anything on your screen. http://camstudio.org/ But there is software that will allow you to enter a URL and record it directly. This is much more reliable. The first hit in Google was this one, but I have absolutely no idea if this is a good product or not: http://www.totalrecorder.com/background_recording_video.htm Good luck!

I tried this out and it works like a charm. The left object is without the extra start gcode and has many waves in the first layer, the right object is with the small z-height adjustment:

I've experimented a bit more and you are correct. The bed was too close. I really like the active leveling, so it was a bit of work to get this manually leveled. I think I've found a solution by adding some starting Z code in the forum. I will try again later today and post my results to that topic (https://ultimaker.com/en/community/38774-active-leveling-too-close) Yes, they are printed as is. Printing them flat and bending them is actually not a bad idea. I think that would decrease print time and increase the quality. (those on Etsy are printed with my old i3 clone, the new ones are already much better)

Hi all I'm Peter. I bought an Ultimaker 3 last week. It is an upgrade from a cheap Prusa i3 clone kit that I bought two years ago. What I like about the Ultimaker 3: It just works. It took my 6 months on my previous machine to get to a similar quality as my first print on the UM3. That's a lot of time (=money) saved. What I'm still struggling with (and part of why I'm here): getting the first layer right. I'm getting slight ripples or waves in my first layer (similar to the last picture here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/34262-pla-ripples) I'm sure I will figure it out What I'm using it for: at the moment, 3D printing is a small "R&D" type activity for my business. I've made custom designs for some of my clients and I am figuring out what goes into creating my own products. You can find me here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/Printin3DBE https://www.3dhubs.com/service/184305 (I need to update that page, it's on my todo list for next weekend)