DanielSun

Hi, I have to took a decision between 3D printing and cnc milling. Both are great hobbies but I have to choose one and don't have the time for all hobbies. So I decided to make cnc as my primary hobby (waf), if you know one from Germany who is interested in an UM2+ clone 1.75mm with the parts for dxu upgrade look here. https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/achtung-selten-ultimaker-2-extended-clone-dxu-update-1-75mm/1038553019-249-8240?utm_source=sharesheet&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_android Thanks and best wishes daniel

Hi, you have to look for an agent wich orders for you. I make a lot with CNC's and buy all from one seller over Aliexpress and I asked him if he would order it for me and send it to me. But look for an agent service they will amount a few euro and will send it to you. Best wishes Daniel

Hi, today I got my parts for the DXU update. Now I have to order a few parts like the bearings and than let it rock 🙂 I will post a few pictures when the update is build. Best wishes from Germany

Hi fcassulo, the change is not only a change in the configuration.h. It's a lot more you have to change a lot of things. the biggest problem is to get it work without the second PT100. But it don't take long for the SW release. I have a working alpha Version and finishing the release Version where you can choose if you work with Cyclopse or with Y adapter to make the Filament Change und set the height of retract if you have an Y-Adapter but it takes a little bit, I'm milling a big project for my wife in the living room and for the "WAF" it's important to do this first 🙂 The SW works and I'm finishing it release will come soon. Best wishes Daniel

Hi, here is the video to the print. I'm near to release the first software on Github.

Here also a detailed picture of the printquality. It's printhead with 0.15mm layer height

The first real dual print is finished, I had 2 times a switching problem with the black colour. Tonight I will check why. Here a few pictures. I'm really happy. Now I will make print test's until end of next week and then go to vacation. Here I will write a how to and relaese it as beta here. Now a few pictures

At the moment I´m making print test. For example I found an error in M140 code for the heated bed (I erased a line to much ?). For the moment the decision to change from Cyclops clone to um2 printhead was a great decision. Pro - No temperature problems like i had with cyclops clone - Cheaper like with cyclopse - If somebody will build this, he needs only a stepper-motor, an 2nd extruder and little bit of ptfe tube. If somebody make an y adapter, splitter or how ever its called, for 3 mm it should work with your actual setup and don´t have to change to 1.75 mm I used this Y adapter from thingiverse Thingiverse Con - it looks like I have to extrude more material to change the color like with the cyclopse - switching the material takes a little bit longer - I need to make a toolstart and stop script in Cura - I need to add in maintance a menu to change the selected extruder Actual i´m printing the dual frog, here a few pictures of the setup (build) and the print. Tomorrow i will post a new print video and pictures of the frog.

After having a lot of trouble with the temperature of the Cyclops clone and for me personally the um2 printhead is a great printhead I give it a try. And after a little bit of Testing I can say it look like it works. Take a look to the video and good night

Tonight I have to look for the actual mounted heater. At the moment it's mounted on one site so the 2 extrusion is good no dropping or anything and the side with the heater is to hot and the heat hears the filament in the tube

At first I will start with 40w, I didn't found one with more watts. Do you know a German reseller that sell this?

It was a very long step to show this but now I can show my first dual prints with 1 temp sensor and 1 heater. The printquality is not the best because the temperature is not stable or the difference is to big between both colours. The reason is that normally there have to be a 6*30mm heater but I only have a 6*16mm. But I think I will get the right heater soon. But here my first 2 videos:

It seems that the firmware works. I was able to start without temp error in dual extrusion with only 1 tempsonsor ? There are two tempsonsor connect temp1 and the heated bed. If I have enough time, tomorrow I will start my first print.

Hello, today I get my printhead. @ my homepage www.SeoGeo.de I beginned te build, but I will not talk about the clonebuild here. There a picture of the printhead and the frame of the new printer.

Update for today: Advanced menu is finished and I think I found where I can deactivate the second temp sensor, but I have to wait for the hardware to test it. Move material for both extruders and heatup nozzle only for 1 heater.

Hi, But I have order all parts for the printer new. I start fresh with 1.75 and have to buy new filament, but yes if it's possible to change modify the extruder it's also a possibility. And for me one possible aspect is I can test filament from friends they use all 1.75. The only what had to be changed is the steps for the extruder. And in German: "Danke für den Tipp, hätte ich vielleicht vorher schauen können ? Grüße aus BW"

Hello together, after building a custom custom frame for an UM2 Link and make several test's with dual printing system's, I decided to make a test with an Cyclops extruder clone. At first I started with the firmware because i will use only 1 heater and only an resistor from the tempsensor of the second unused heater. What's done for the moment? - Printing: GCODE hotend changed with M104 and M109 changes every time the temperature of the hotend 0 independently of the temperature is set for E0 or E1. In the picture you can see that heater 1 is heating und steps of heater 2 changes - Cleaning print menu Temperatur 2 is removed but material flow 1 and 2 are still available - Material change for second nozzle changed, now it heat's hotend 1 with the temperature of the material 2 - Changing the function of advanced maintence At first step i changed the function of heatup of the second nozzle. Changing this temp changes the temp of the first heater. - Changing the function move material 2 in advanced maintence If it's selected it changes the temp of hotend 1 with the temp of material 2 and when the temp ist arrived I can move the material 2 (E2) - Build a Cura 3.3.1 printer configuration (I modified the config of Link) What are the next steps? - Finishing the cleaning of advanced maintence (remove heatup secondary nozzle, it's a little big trickier as I thought) - Check if it's possible to deactivate the error for the missing Tempsensor, if not a potentiometer should work great ? - Build and mod the printer, make test's and show the finished build here (parts are ordered and I'm waiting) ? - Show the prints here and on my homepage - Make a documentation of the build (mod), will publish the documentation here @ SeoGeo_de - Publish the Marlin code on Github Needed parts: - Change filament size to 1.75 mm - 2 new extruder requiered with 1.75 mm support - 1 new Steppermotor for E2 - Cyclops V2 printhead and a few small parts At last known issues / specification - GCODE has to be Marlincode, with Ultimaker code it don't work (for me no problem because I use octoprint) - I can't check in Marlin if the GCODE sent temp is the print temp or the standby temp, so I have to set for the standbytemp the printing temp of the other material. Example: Extruder 1 PLA Extruder 2 ABS Print temp 200°C 240°C Standbay temp 240°C 200°C If somebody know how I can detect if the send temp is printtemp or standbytemp, this step can be ignored - Change the filament size to 1.75 mm (I didn't found an Cyclops with 2.85 mm) If somebody have questions or can help me with my issues, please answer here or write me a pm. Sorry for my english I hope all can understand what i have wrote. Bye Daniel

Hello together, Somebody knows how to change my account name? I can change the email but I don't found where I can change my name. Thanks

I found the error. Thanks

Hello together, I'm playing a little bit with the firmware and make some test but I have problems with the SD card support with the simulation. Can somebody tell me what I have to do for test a print file. I made a models folder under c:/models, named my file like in the code, I changed the path in the code but nothing helps. Does somebody know what I have to do? Thanks Daniel

Ja nicht ganz, habe mir diese Anleitung auch schon angesehen. Das was es auch einen Seite reingeht, geht es aus der anderen wieder raus. Interessant ist das es nur am Anfang passiert (solange der Boden gedruckt wird. Beim Drucken der Seitenwand passiert das nicht mehr.

Hallo zusammen, Habe mir einen neuen UM2 Clone (nicht mein erster 3D Drucker) zusammengebaut. An sich drückt er super kann nicht nicht beschweren. Wenn ich kleine Ausdrucke mache in mitten des Druckbettes dann ist alles okay. Drücke ich was größeres z.B. ein Gehäuse dann zieht mir der Ausdruck in beide Achsen ein wenig zur Seite aber nur solange der Boden gedruckt wird. Bei den Seitenwänden läuft es gerade wie es soll. Die Achsen laufen soweit leichtgängig, die Riemen sind gespannt (alle 6), der Strom der Stepper hochgesetzt um ggf Schrittverluste bei leichter Schwergängigkeit zu vermeiden. Hatte auch die Zahnräder im Verdacht aber dann wäre es immer und nicht nur bei großen ausdrucken. Ich hoffe man sieht auf den Bildern was ich meine. Auf dem einen Bild sieht es wir Clipping aus aber das ist es nicht. Die Haftung ist OK. Ggf ist Z-ein Tick zu tief aber dann wäre ja nur der erste layer betroffen oder? Für einen Tipp wäre ich echt dankbar. Gruß und danke Daniel

Auch auf die Gefahr hin es heisst ich hätte zu viel Zeit :-) Das Mark 2 Update ist fast durch. Wie immer ein paar Bilder.

Hi Gerd, genau genommen bin ich aktuell Strohwitwer und hab dadurch gerade ein wenig mehr Zeit abends. Wenn aber das Gehäuse mal steht geschieht der Einbau der Teile in 3-4 Stunden. Ich musste ein paar Kabel verlängern und das 2. Hotend ist noch nicht angeschlossen aber sonst ist alles verbaut und läuft. Das Gehäuse ist komplett aus HPL gemacht, ich mag dieses Material und arbeite gern damit. Irgendwann hatte ich mal gelesen (finde es aber nicht mehr) das der Kunstoffkern bei geschlossenen Druckern (mit Deckel und Tür) gern mal weich werden ist, an sich aber eigentlich egal, da ist ja jetzt nicht so die Kraft auf dem Gehäuse wie bei einer Fräse z.B. Der Hauptgrund für HPL statt Dibond ist schlicht die Verfügbarkeit, der Preis und für mich die Verarbeitbarkeit. Aktuell drucke ich Spulenhalter und die Teile für ein MARK 2 Update. Kurze Frage an die Profis da draußen. Ist die Mark 2 Software mit Octoprint kompatibel? Habe bis jetzt keine Antwort dazu gefunden ohne jetzt bei Fo Gruß Daniel

So es ist soweit der Drucker druckt. Bilder von den Ausdrucken folgen. Nächste Schritte: Seitliche Türen und Front Tür Mark 2 Update Wenn Mark 2 fertig ist noch einen Deckel oben drauf. @Ultimaker Team Wo darf ich unter welchen Voraussetzungen die Pläne posten? Genug geschrieben hier ein paar Bilder: