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Brulti

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Everything posted by Brulti

  1. It's sold with a robot assistant that handles changing filament and cleaning the plate after a print for you, then starts the new print. 😉
  2. Non, la tête est stable et ne bouge pas si je la secoue.
  3. Merci pour le liens. Ils sont en rupture de stocks sur les courroies! 😅 Heureusement que c'est pas trop grave non plus pour le moment. Je me dis que les poulies en métal ont peut-être moins de chances de s'user que les courroies en plastique...
  4. Ça fait des vaguelettes à la surface qui se voient, surtout quand le buse d'impression change de direction. Et le bruit est assez fort je trouve, en tout cas comparé au bruit normal de l'imprimante. Je vais regarder comment on fait pour démonter et vérifier les courroies. Vue comme ça, elles n'ont pas l'air usées, mais bon, je pense que les démonter permettra de mieux les voir ça.
  5. Je remarque que, aujourd'hui, ça le fait surtout lors de déplacement sur l'axe X, quasiment pas sur l'axe Y. L'usure des courroies pourrait générer le bruit et les vibrations? Ce serait les courroies moteur ou des axes? Ou les deux?
  6. Bonjour à tous, J'ai un problème depuis peu: mon imprimante (UM3E achetée il y a environ 2 ans) fait du bruit pendant les impressions, et ça semble générer des vibrations qui causent un effet de ringing sur mes impressions. Voici une vidéo où on peut clairement entendre le bruit, une sorte de staccato sonore à certains moments: J'ai fait l'entretien de la machine en me disant que c'était peut-être lié à ça: vérification des axes, huilages de tout le fourbi, resserrage des vis sur les axes, etc. Ça a un peu amélioré les choses, mais pas compl
  7. Sketchup est un grand spécialiste de la génération de fichiers stl pourris. Perso, je fais mes modèles sous Blender. Il faut télécharger un petit add-on officiel qui vérifie que le modèle est correct pour l'impression 3D avant de l'exporter en stl. C'est pas parfait, mais ça fait le boulot, et j'ai jamais eu de problèmes.
  8. Hello, I got my UM3E about two years ago now, and I noticed recently that it would make noise, like a sort of grinding, when printing, but only on certain position. It does not seem to be related to a specific axis, but more to printing on a certain position on the bed plate, or maybe when it is printing long lines. The noise has gotten louder and is now creating vibrations that affect the surface quality of the prints. I just serviced it: checked the axles, greased them, tightened the pulleys, pushed the motors down, etc, but it's still there and I'm at a loss as to wh
  9. Ultimaker 42, the answer to everything! 😋
  10. Hello, I'm currently printing a big order for a customer, with lots of small parts, and, when I did the upgrade to 4.2.1, I realized a problem with the support for one small piece. I fiddled with the settings for a while before going back to 4.1; I always keep two versions of Cura on my computer just in case, some of the last releases had very annoying bugs... I found out that it wasn't anything I did, my settings were right, but 4.2.1 does not generate support the same way 4.1.0 does, see the pictures below: - Support in 4.1.0: - Support i
  11. Alternatively you could get a UM3E with the bondtech feeder upgrades for abrasive filaments if you really need it. The 3E is cheaper than the S5, has a nice build volume (30*20*20), is dual print and can accept the CC core for abrasive if need be. It doesn't have the filament sensor, but I don't feel that this is such a deal breaker. Got mine for two years now, never been disappointed, every problem I encountered were due to user error, except a bent glass plate that was quickly replaced by my reseller free of charge, and solved thanks to the great poeple of this forum.
  12. Unfortunately I don't have the picture of the end result anymore, sorry. Though, I can tell you, as was pointed out, that the silicon will show the layers and every surface imperfection. There was a clear 'stairs' effect on the picture of the silicon part that my client made. But that was ok for him since it was some kind of proof of concept. You'll want to use a very fine resolution for parts that will be used. I would advise against trying to smooth the surface of a PVA mould with water, as it risk softening the whole mould.
  13. You're welcome, looking forward to see the results of your experiments in printing moulds!
  14. Wow, that's some very poor customer service from the reseller, and also a quite badly assembled printer. I find it quite improbable that UM would let such a printer get shipped out to customer and I wonder if the reseller did not sell you a printer that was returned to them, or one that they actually screwed up with (pun intended 😉 ) and decided to still make some money out of it. Maybe @SandervG could help? The forum is a very nice place, full of helpful people, be they from UM like SandervG or just regular users like me, but it can happen that messages go under the r
  15. One of my customer did it: he asked me to print the mould in PVA then he poured silicon in it. It worked like a charm. It was a small thing, a few centimetres of diameter. You can see the two parts of the mould in the picture below. I sent it with a silica gel packet to try and prevent damage by humidity during transport, some postal services can be rough and uncaring with packages, I had packages arrive with water damage due to rain or such.
  16. Just a thought there @NBull: given the problems you had with your S5, which is clearly not normal given that UM printers are as close to plug and play as can be right now, have you considered contacting your reseller and asking for an exchange? It is very possible that you got a faulty one, it will happen no matter how rigorously they're tested before leaving the factory floor, and asking for an exchange might have solved your problem. When I bought my UM3E, I had difficulty printing and realized quickly that the glass plate was way too bent to be usable. I contacted my reseller an
  17. En fait, pour le contact alimentaire, il faut surtout s'assurer d'éviter toute contamination. Donc, pour bien faire, il faudrait une imprimante spécifiquement dédié à imprimer des objets pour contact alimentaire, si possible dans un endroit à part. Sinon, on risque une contamination vu qu'il restera toujours des particules dans le feeder ou les tubes bowden, et que la plupart des autres filaments peuvent être toxiques si ingérés. Sinon, on peut imprimer des couverts avec à peu près n'importe quelle imprimante. Couvert, moules à gâteaux, tasse, etc, ca reste des objets normaux en fa
  18. I bought at UM3E two years ago, been very happy with it since. It was my first printer, so I had a bit of a learning curve at first. I use mostly UM filament, and they are as close to 'hit print and forget' as can be, I think. CURA has the settings for UM filaments, so, you can just load up a spool of PLA, select it in CURA and start your print; same with every UM filament. For other brands, you need to do a bit of experimenting, but once you've found the right settings, you can create a specific setting in CURA and you're good to go as well. I've done that with several special fil
  19. @shambam I follow the standard maintenance and clenaing procedures set by UM for my UM3E, worked like a charm so far. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52604-clean-the-printer https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52613-clean-the-feeders
  20. @ahoeben I just downloaded and installed your file on 4.1 and it works like a charm so far. Thank you so very much once again for your time spent into making this plugin to give us all a better UI!
  21. @Link What @UMS5_VSM forget to say is that 8-9 months is just after the UM5 started being sold an UM still expected to be able to ship out aluminum plate. They haven't been waiting 8-9 months for the second glass plate. If you look at the messages above in this thread, you'll see that the second glass plates have begun shipping late April-early May to the various retailers worldwide, who are then in charge of sending them to the customers. Thus why it can be slow to arrive, especially if you take into account the fact they probably sent them first to the people who first bought the
  22. Ce devrait être plus que suffisant. Assure-toi quand même que le filament puisse bouger sans trop frotter en sortant de la boite, si ton trou est trop petit, tu risque de la sous-extrusion, ça m'est arrivé sur mes premiers tests. J'ai des capteurs digitaux d'humidité dans toutes mes boites, celles d'impression et celles de stockage, par sécurité. Le silicate tient longtemps dans de si petits espaces, mais il n'est pas non plus éternel. 😉 Ravi d'avoir pu t'aider, tiens-nous au courant du résultat avec le pva formfutura.
  23. Perso, j'ai juste fait un trou sur le côté de la boite, passé un bout de bowden dedans que j'ai collé à la boite avec un petit bout de mousse ronde,je crois que c'est un truc qui sert en plomberie pour les tuyau, collé autour pour la stabilité du truc. C'est un peu barbare, mais un trou ouvert de 4mm ou 5mm de diamètre ne permet pas beaucoup de circulation d'air entre l'intérieur et l’extérieur de la boite. En tout cas, depuis que j'utilise ce système, plus d'un an maintenant, bientôt deux ans, j'ai jamais eu de problèmes et il m'est arrivé de laisser des bobines de filament dedans
  24. J'ai fait pareil: une boite étanche avec du silicate et un senseur d'humidité dedans pour le stockage, et une autre, petite, juste assez grande pour un rouleau, pour l'impression. Cherche sur le forum ou sur thingiverse, tu trouveras différents modèles avec les instructions.
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