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Brulti

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Everything posted by Brulti

  1. Looks like a display problem rather than a real bug. I guess it was 2 Days 20 hours when you firts noticed it, but it omitted the 2 for some reason.
  2. @teleporteur I don't that's possible yet. We've solved the problem here by buying a WeMo. It can be turned on and off through the web, and the printer is plugged on it, so we can turn the printer off at a distance if we realize that a nightly print has gone sideways.
  3. @rigs: "Il ne faut pas chercher à trouver les meilleurs paramètres d'impression mais il faut trouver le meilleur moyen de pallier à tous les défauts." Je vais méditer longuement sur cette phrase. Merci pour tes explications et ton retour d’expérience. @Ollo: "Ah une dernière chose , j'ai gagné en taux de réussite avec le détecteur de fin de fil sur UM2,la machine reste chaude (pas de décollage du print) et en pause, donc le print peut repartir après nouvelle bobine, vivement une solution identique sur UM3." Je plussoie l'idée. Mon UM3E à continuer d'imprimer une pièce que j'ai faite récemment alors que la bobine de fil était vide (il ne restait que la longueur du tube bowden) donc il manque des layers sur la haut de la pièce. C'est pas super grave dans ce cas précis, c'était un support pour tél, il doit manquer 2-3 centimètres sur le haut mais ce n'est pas gênant, mais ça m'a fait bizarre quand je suis arrivé le lendemain et que j'ai vu le truc.
  4. Les faux départs c'est gérable, et on ne perd pas trop de temps. Mais c'est surtout les problèmes qui surviennent après des heures, en plein milieu de la nuit ou ce genre de choses, une fois que la pièce est imprimée à 50% ou plus qui sont très frustrant. Mais bon, vu que certains de mes filaments ont certainement pris l'humidité, même après plusieurs jours dans une boite avec un déshumidificateur, je pense qu'il doit rester des petites taches d'humidité sur le filament, donc ça grind au moment ou il passe dans le feeder, et c'est la cata... Vous changez beaucoup les paramètres? J'ai tendance a ne pas trop jouer avec, étant donné que j'utilise des filaments ultimaker pour le moment. Notamment les paramètres de vitesse d'impression, je me dis qu'ils doivent être déjà réglés comme il faut pour les filaments constructeurs. Le jour ou je testerai une autre marque de filaments, ce sera différent. Ça me rassure de voir qu'il y a un vrai temps d'apprentissage sur la machine, et que je suis pas complètement a la ramasse. (Non, je ne referai pas la même blague deux fois! ) @rigs : Mâitre. *S'agenouille humblement.*
  5. Bonjour amis makers francophones. J'ai une UM3E depuis un peu plus d'un mois, et j'apprends, péniblement, les petits détails, astuces et autres précautions à prendre pour s'assurer du bon fonctionnement de l'objet. C'est pas facile, et assez frustrant par moments quand on subit une suite d'échecs d'impressions. D’où la question de connaitre le taux de réussite d'impression d'autres utilisateurs d'imprimantes 3D, que ce soit la 3 Extended ou un autre modèle. J'ai vu sur ce site la vidéo ou ils expliquent qu'ils ont imprimés eux-même un certain nombre de support pour spool pour le lancement de la UM3, et, sauf erreur, Ultimaker a dit avoir un taux de réussite un poil au-dessus de 80%, ce qui n'est pas énorme comparé à d'autres méthodes de production d'objets. Donc je voudrais bien connaitre quels sont vox taux de réussites sur vos impressions? Même si c'est juste une estimation un peu à la louche, histoire de me rassurer et de me dire que je ne suis pas totalement une buse (d'impression! Haha! ) Merci d'avance pour vos réponses.
  6. @kmanstudios I'm blaming Ultimaker because all I use right now are Ultimaker products. I'll complain to other producers when I start using their products, don't worry. I agree with @ultiarjan and @Dim3nsioneer that the packaging should be changed, and more prominent warnings against humidity put on them, for PVA and PLA as well. I kept all unused spools in their original package, with the small bag of silicon or whatever it is, inside, but it wasn't enough. Thanks @ultiarjan for the links. I'll try them if our current solution doesn't works: the opened spools have been put in closed boxes with small dehumidifier, in the hope of absorbing the moisture and keeping it at low level. The sensors inside says it's about 35% humidity. We've also had sensors in every room from the very start, and the room where the printer is located is currently at about 45% humidity, with one of the small dehumidifier in it since this weekend. The sensor was there from the start, and I've never seen it go above 50% while I was there. But, I'm not here 24/7 since the printer is at the office and my home is more comfy! Thank all for your replies. Despite this small disappointment, which can fortunately be remedied, I'm still impressed by the printer. And sometimes amused when it seems to go bonkers and starts zipping and zooming all over the place while printing a layer of support or filling. XD
  7. Hello everyone, Well, I'm quite disappointed at the moment, plus slightly angry and fed up. After days of reading various threads on this forum and servicing the UM3E that I bought barely a month ago, I've come to the conclusion that the only explanation for the spectacular failures of my recent prints is that the spools have gone bad due to humidity. The room they're in is usually around or below 50% humidity, temps are kept between 20C-25C, except when we got the heatwaves and it went over 30C, not much we could do as the room don't have an AC. But my PVA and some of the PLA, the rolls that I opened to test the printer once I got it, have definitely gone bad: under extrusion or bird'snest and small blobs have become common. I would really have appreciated if Ultimaker would have heavily insisted on the sensibility of the spools of threads to temperatures and humidity. As the UM3E we got is supposed to be used commercially, and it's not really possible if the spools go bad after a month. I've bought some plastic boxes along with some dehumidifier, in the hope of saving my spools of threads, but I'd be very grateful if some among my fellow makers could give me some target numbers for storage temperature and humidity levels inside the box. Also, I've seen the advice given by tomnagel here (http://elb-v2-prod-615036279.eu-west-1.elb.amazonaws.com/en/community/34515-printing-pva-lots-of-problems#reply-164899) on how to dry and save the PVA, but 'a few hours' isn't very precise. If someone had experience and could give me a more precise duration (2 hours? 3? 5? Overnight?) I'd be really grateful too. I'd hate to waste a practically unused 750g spool of PVA... Ultimaker, and the resellers, should really insist on this point, and tell customers how to store their spool of materials, ie keep humidity below a certain level, store in closed box with dehumidifiers and the like. The printer is top notch, Cura is quite easy to use, and very complete if you wanna play with the settings, and I've managed some very nice prints with spools just out of the packaging. But I'm very disappointed to see that spools can go bad so easily and so fast. I'll put below some pictures of the recent failures from this past week. My last good print: The failures when I tried to print the rest: (The printer would start to underextrude once it finished printing the bottom walls. The prints warped because I took them off the heating bed before they had time to cool down, it's not a printing problem.): And my failed try today using a roll of PVA opened a couple weeks ago and a new roll of Green ABS: (the ABS printed perfectly, the PVA, well, the picture speaks for itself.)
  8. That would also be a quite good idea, and it would make it so much easier to find out what was changed. Or, if we have to keep the scrolling, at least make the changes pop much more, since the little symbol is just barely noticeable. Highlight the changes in red or something, for example.
  9. Hello, So, as I was looking around in Cura, trying to understand and fix some problems I had when printing, I noticed the little star in the 'Profile' menu, that tells you 'Some setting/override values are different from the values stored in the profile. Click to open profile manager.' Which is good when you're trying to troubleshoot printing problems. Except than, when you click to open the profile manager, all it gives you is the default values for the profile selected, it doesn't tell you which of the current values are different from the default values. It would be very helpful to have the differences being highlighted, so we know can easily find what they are among the many settings we can change in Cura. Thank you.
  10. Better late than never, but thanks for the answer. I contacted the reseller and, after an exchange of mails and pictures, they agreed that the plate was non-flat and replaced it with a much flatter one.
  11. Hello everyone, I recently acquired an Ultimaker 3 Extended, and I've been doing prints to test it, see what the various materials can do, and so on. I've had it for about two weeks now, and I'm very amazed by the quality of the prints, and also the ease to use Cura for beginners like myself, even though I've begun looking at advanced settings, which are less easy. Anyway, I've started trying to print big objects, and I realised that I had some problems with under extrusion or over extrusion on some parts. I've contacted my reseller, looked online for solutions. Updates have been done, reset as well, the axis have been tightened and the printer has the auto leveling activated. But I still have the problem, and I'm beginning to wonder if it isn't the metalic plate that support the glass that is warped, because the under extrusion is on the upper right corner, and the over extrusion on the lower left corner. Although, it seems that the glass is somehow slightly u shaped, but that should be corrected by the manual leveling I did at first, and the auto leveling the printer does afterwards, shouldn't it? Here are two pictures taken as I was doing some tests with an stl file I got on thingiverse to test bed leveling. As you can see, the square in the upper right corner is not right, and neitehr is the one on the lower left. Only the ones on the other corners are right. And the printer sits on a flat surface, I've checked it with a bubble level, so it's not that. So, if anyone has had the same problem and knows a solution, please let me know. I'd rather not have to send back the prinetr and wait for a new one, and I'll be using it professionnaly. Thank you very much in advance for any help you can bring.
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