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Brulti

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Everything posted by Brulti

  1. @osmoz3d Merci pour le conseil, je me suis procuré un petit four il y a quelques mois pour ça, il était en promotion et fait très bien le travail. Pour le moment, je n'ai pas vraiment eu de problèmes avec un stockage long, mais il faut dire que le PVA fait partie du filament que je consomme le plus, avec le PLA Blanc. ^^
  2. @steelhorsemodels I found out that active leveling isn't really needed on UM3E. If you do a good job with a manual leveling, active leveling becomes useless and is just a waste of time at the start of a print. The leveling will need to be redone after a time, of course, but you're good for many prints before it becomes an issue if you did the manual leveling well the first time. I would advise to not use the leveling card sent with the printer, but get something like this: https://www.makershop.fr/outils-et-accessoires/1476-cales-mecaniques-005mm-1mm.html In my personal experience, I would often need to redo the manual leveling once or twice with the card before it was good. The card is soft, gets easily bent on the side if it hits the printhead when it is a bit too low, and the feeling for the kind of pressure there is is hard to tell. With those metal cards things (which I got by mistake, was a misclick that I didn't saw when I placed my order), I never had to redo the manual calibration, one time was enough, and the thing is hard and gives a much better feeling for the pressure coming from the printhead.
  3. I've been using the other side, not where the sticker is, nearly since I got the printer and plate because of the way the glass plate is slightly bent. Using the other side helps make sure the material sticks better by using the bend of the plate. I haven't really seen any difference between both sides of the plate when I put water on it...
  4. I don't like the new interface, for the same reasons I highlighted on my post in the beta thread. Thanks a lot to @ahoeben for the sidebar plugin! Now CURA becomes easy and simple to use again.
  5. I did some more tests, it seems to print best at 225-230°C, plate temperature 70°C, 50mm/s and no glue.
  6. Hello everyone, I'm trying to print with HDGlass Blue from FormFutura, but I'm having some trouble with warping. From what I've read, HDGlass shouldn't require glue or tape and should stick to the bed nicely. I'm not sure if I should change the printing temperature or the temperature of the glass bed, I've looked online but got many conflicting information. I'll be experimenting with the temperatres, but I'd appreciate any advice or hindsight for those of you who are using or used it. I've cleaned my glass bed thoroughly, so there shouldn't be any residue on it that could cause the warping. The spool is kept in a dry box, so it's unlikely that it got moist, humidity is around 30% in the box. I'm attaching the profile I'm currently using, it's for a Hardcore 0.6, thus the layer at 0.3 and the line width at 0.55. Thanks HD Glass Hardcore 0.6.curaprofile
  7. I sent the mold in PVA directly to the customer, with no post-treatment. He did not try to smooth it, and the layer lines did appear on his silicon object, but it was only for a proof of concept I believe, so he did not need it to be smooth. The PVA held remarkably well, according to the customer, when he poured the liquid silicon through the holes into the mold, and it was tight enough that there was no leak; the mold was in two parts that assembled together. I sent it with a silicon packet because I was afraid it would get soft due to humidity during transport, but it did not.
  8. As a side note, one of my customers had me make a mold in PVA to make something in silicon. The PVA held the molten silicon without a hitch and then he dissolved it in water.
  9. C'est ma combo: Blender + UM3E. 😉 Ca fonctionne très bien pour le moment, même si Blender n'est pas le plus adapté pour des modélisations de choses techniques très précises, et surtout les modifications. Je vais jeter un œil a Designspark Mechanical, ça m'a l'air plus adapté pour les choses très techniques, et il y a une version gratuite qui me semble bien suffisante quand on est pas ingénieur.
  10. So, you should be getting before May 1st.
  11. Je garde mon PVA au sec au maximum dans une boite fermée avec un absorbeur d'humidité. Merci pour le lien et pour l'explication de la méthode.
  12. That's a good point that you raise: is it worth the effort? I guess if I manage my spools well enough the loss of material becomes quite insignificant. I'll need to think about it, thanks.
  13. Do you know methods to do it properly?
  14. Hello, I've just finished a print and I find myself with a tiny bit of PVA on the spool, maybe a couple meters at most, which doesn't allow me to do much with it. I would hate to have to throw it away, and I was wondering if there a way to save it? As in, for example, find a way to sort of 'fuse' it with the beginning of a new spool of PVA? The question also works with any material basically, given that, since I have a UM3E, there will always be a bit of filament left due to the length of the bowden tube. I'd like a solution that would be easy to implement at home, I'm not that much of a handyman, though I might be interested in any device that could help. Thanks
  15. Bonjour, J'ai un rouleau de PVA qui arrive au bout, il doit en rester un peu plus de deux mètres, ce qui donne environ 1,5m utilisable en comptant la longueur du tube bowden de mon UM3E. Vu le prix du PVA, j'aimerais assez ne pas perdre ces quelques mètres de matériau et pouvoir les coller/fusionner/autre avec un rouleau neuf. Ça me permettrait aussi de ne pas avoir plusieurs rouleaux de filaments presque fini qui trainent dans mes armoires. Quelles solutions existent pour répondre à mon problème? Je recherche plutôt des solutions 'fait maison', assez simples et pratiques, que des appareils qu'on peut acheter en magasin. Même questions pour les autres types de filaments: PLA, Nylon, etc... Merci.
  16. Glue is ok for small prints with PP, I did some tests. Adhesion sheets or something alike for big pieces.
  17. So, I just keep my usual settings, just set my layer height and it should work fine? Ok, was worried that the difference in Line Width mostly would create problems in CURA. I'll make a test with PLA, good idea and thanks for the reply.
  18. Hello, I want to try and do a dual print using woodfill and standard PLA. I have one Hardcore Everlast 0.6 for abrasive like the woodfill, bought before the CC core was made and sold by UM. So, since I have only one Hardcore, and can't buy another one at the moment, I'll have to use the standard AA 0.4 as the second nozzle for the PLA. Would that create some problems and is there anything specific I should do to ensure a smooth printing? I have created specific profiles in CURA to print the various abrasives I tested with the Hardcore 0.6, won't that create some problems in CURA since line width is not the same for the two cores? Thanks in advance for your help.
  19. Blender is free and does it easily. It's called 'Spin' in Blender if I'm not mistaken.
  20. I was using the calibration card, but I often had to adjust it as @gr5 advises. Now, I'm using a metallic calibration plate. I never intended to buy it, it was a misclick when buying stuff on the site, and I didn't check once I was done. But, I found it to be quite more precise than the calibration card, and I did not had to adjust the screws so far after using this to calibrate my bed. Also, for cleaning the glass bed, I would advise to sue the yellow window cleaner from Karcher, That's what I'm using and it works wonder, even to dissolve remnants from PVA after a print or glue from a stick.
  21. In my experience, using a UM printer with UM-brand filament, prime tower have become useless. I guess it should be possible to find settings with any combination of printer and filament to make the prime tower useless as well, thus saving a lot of time and material.
  22. Did you make sure that the bed is properly cleaned? I'm currently printing many small parts with PLA and using brim, and there's no adhesion problem as long as the bed is properly cleaned.
  23. That's interesting but you run the risk of the part being knocked over when the priming is done on the inside and the printhead is wiped against the inner walls. Or to have small bits of filament sticking out of your part and messing up the layers and the coloring, in case the priming isn't perfect and tehre's still some leakage. It's been suggested to UM to make the prime tower conical: wider at the base and thinner at the top, to give it even more stability with the round shape, I do not know if this is on their todolist and would be implemented in Cura 4.0 or later, or maybe it is on list of things that would be nice to code but are not considered that important.
  24. As the replies above said, Nylon needs to be kept in a drybox even when printing, else it will absorb humidity and go bad. You can buy dryboxes in specialized shops or find plans to make your own on this forum or websites like thingiverse or youmagine. It's actually quite easy to do.
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