Brulti

@Ghadeer I've printed quite a lot with UM Nylon, for myself and for customers, and did mechanical parts for engines and such. It should work without problem for your needs. As @CapableQuad said, be sure to keep your nylon dry and use a drybox when printing, it does absorb humidity quite a lot, though not as badly as PVA.

Actually, you don't need to change printcores if you go from PLA to TPU, for example, only PVA requires a specific printcore. But, that would still not work as the settings from printing PLA and TPU, as an example, are different and you cannot change the settings mid-print.

I do the same as Shadowman: glue stick for Nylon directly on the glass, no glue for PLA but cleaning the glass every time. The settings made by UM for UM-brand PLA should ensure you do not need glue. Though, as gr5 pointed out, sharp corners are more likely to peel off. You can remedy to that by using a brim or adding a one layer thick circle around the sharp edge in a 3D modeling program, if you don't want to have a brim all around the piece and save a bit on material.

Youmagine isn't part of UM anymore, and it's not dealt with by the people of this forum. You can send an email to hello@youmagine.com to report the problem directly to the Youmagine team. They also have a Telegram channel and one of the admins posted a direct email:

Ok, I get it now. I usually print one object at a time myself, but now I see how it could be useful.

If it's not hard, then I guess why not. Still not sure of the real use though, I tend to disable perspective on my modeling software, then just export the model as stl to CURA, changing scale and orientation as needed before printing.

CURA is not an engineering CAD software, it's a slicer. @Xeddog Sounds like your CURA is slightly buggy to me. Maybe you should try a reinstall and clean up old CURA folders as well? It should only ask you once about that once you reply to it, mine never botehred me more than once through my various installations of CURA.

There are also a ton of free add-ons that enable you to do many things. As @kmanstudios said, Blender has quite the learning curve, and you'll need to dedicate time to learn it's intricacies and get enough of a hold of it to be able to use it efficiently. But it is very powerful. The new version is supposed to improve the readability of the UI, among many other things, but it is still in beta, so, if you give it a try, don't be surprised to find bugs, and if you do, report them to the Blender team.

Interesting. It looks like the option's name is even more descriptive that I thought: 'Automatically drop model to the build plate.' It does indeed drops the model if it's not touching the buildplate, but doesn't raises it if it's below it. As you say, @Smithy, you never stop learning! 😏

I have no idea since I don't know the first thing about coding and use the standard CURA code. Maybe you should deactivate your wipe for this specific print?

Aye, the printer won't print anything that is below Z=0.

Don't forget to uncheck the option that makes CURA place the model automatically on the bed, else it might not accept your new Z value.

I never used Octoprint myself, so I can't really help you. Others here are more familiar with it, I'm sure they'll be able to help.

What is shown on CURA should be the instructions that will be in the gcode sent to the printer... Seems like a bug to me. What are you using to see what the printer will do and find the difference between CURA and the gcode?

Not at the moment. The only thing that approaches this is the 'Adaptive layers' option but that won't allow you to choose where you want thicker or thinner lines, it does it automatically on specific places on a print, to make holes or curves look more smooth while not requiring you to print your whole object at 0.06mm, for example.

If you can't fix it in any CAD program, you can cheat using the Support: use the same extruder for support than for your print, set the 'Support Z Distance', 'Support X/Y Distance' and 'Minimum Support X/Y Distance' to 0, and activate 'Enable Support Roof'. This will basically turn the layer into a fully filled-in layer, and there will be virtually no difference between that layer of support and the object you want to print, save for some oddly orientated lines if one looks at the bottom of the object closely.

You need to change 'Support Placement' to 'Everywhere'.

I never had the issue, and it looks like a bug since it definitely shouldn't be doing that. That being said, if you're using UM materials, the prime tower is mostly useless. Settings for UM materials on CURA are fine-tuned enough that you don't need it. I haven't sued a prime tower in a while and I do dual printing frequently, especially with PVA for support. Can't say for dual printing with other brands.

The sides of the glass plates are different? 😮 Never really saw much difference... I print on the 'back', relative to the sticker, of one of my glass plate due to the way it is slightly bent, and it sticks as well as the other side when the printer is properly calibrated, ie first layer is squished enough.

Tu peux en fabriquer une drybox toi-même, ce n'est pas très compliqué et tu peux trouver des modèles et des instructions sur ce forum ou sur thingiverse, par exemple, avec les fichiers pour imprimer le moyeu pour tenir le rouleau de filament. Grâce à ça, j'ai pu faire des impressions sur un plusieurs jours avec du PVA sans aucun problème. Et j'ai une UM3E.

That's awesome. Can you claim one piece for a start, if you're n ot sure you can print more, then claim more afterwards if you realize you have free printer time to do so?

Pareil: le PVA ultimaker, s'il est stocké au sec, ne pose aucun problème.

That's an idea that I second.

Setting the temperature at 150°C or 180°C is enough for all of UM filaments as far as I know, when it comes to doing a manual priming. And you do not need to push it through the feeder yourself, I would strongly advise against that as you risk damaging it, you only need to go to the Material menu and select Move, then you can move the filament forwards or backwards by rotating the wheel of the UM3. I'm not sure how this is done on the touchscreen of the UM5 though...

@daj1u06 You can easily do that manually from the printer's menu, not from CURA. You can select a printcore, heat it up, and manually move filament to prime it and check the flow.