tiaguera79
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Posts posted by tiaguera79
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On 11/20/2016 at 5:02 PM, Torgeir said:
OK. Here it is.
The first picture show the part of the main board of interest, all stepper drivers with the connectors and a yellow mark besides the resistors to be shorted.
I've made a detail picture of each of the drivers where you can see the actual short jumper across the resistors.
The individual pictures have name that’s reflect the stepper, the ICS name and involved resistor ID.
So the following pictures added is:
X_U8_R84.JPG (So: the X-axes, IC U8 and resistor R84)
Y_U10_R85.JPG
Z_U11_R86.JPG
E1_U12_R102.JPG
E2_U13_R103.JPG
That’s all.
Overview of involved parts.
The X-axes.
The Y-axes
The Z-axes
The E1 feeder (here you'll see clearly how the resistor is shorted across).
The E2 feeder
So, remember to remove all contacts/connection from the main board before soldering here.
Good Luck.
Thanks.
Torgeir.
Hi!
I accidentaly blew the C74 capacitor. Does anyone know it’s right specification on v2.1.4 board?
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Thank you so Much! I am looking for a solid partner to help me out with my project!
cant thank you enough Rajilpahuja and Gr5.
and let me know as soon as you have those PT100 ready.
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17 hours ago, tiaguera79 said:
I just figured it out after you said. I am changing the hole circuit and hope it works... fingers crossed!
It worked really fine! Temp error only above 403 degrees... guess I’ll try printing at 400 and see what heapens...
can’t thank you enough for you support!
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1 hour ago, gr5 said:
I don't think you need a ruby nozzle - I'm not aware that peek is harder than brass.
You can't use the PT100 with that AD547 board - so that's part of your problem. The voltage out should not be 4.9V - it should be about 0.2V. But that's because your using a PT100 instead of a thermocouple.
The UM PCB has a circuit on it that can measure PT100 directly. You don't need any special electronics. But you have to connect it to a different part of the PCB. There should be 3 temperature in circuits. You have to use one of those 3 connectors (temp1, temp2, temp3). The special PT100 circuitry only connects to those three locations so you have to use one of those.
I just figured it out after you said. I am changing the hole circuit and hope it works... fingers crossed!
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1 hour ago, rajilpahuja said:
@gr5 peek is not harder sure, but at 400 brass does loose its integrity a bit and i have a few worn nozzles, those high temps are really taxing on brass so better to have a ruby which is harder and wont loose shape, plus ruby wont really contaminate his parts as his needs are medical he says, thats just my opinion but you are more knowledgable on this
I bought a stainless steel nozzle set for that. Is that better?
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3 minutes ago, rajilpahuja said:
And most grades of peek can print at 400C that is quite good, however for some medical grades is 425-450C
I need for Medical propose...
do you have WhatsApp or telegram so we could talk?
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17 minutes ago, rajilpahuja said:
If its a PT100 then the UM2 board is configured for that, why would you do all this stuff ?
Because it would send me an error when reaching more than 320 degrees...
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14 hours ago, rajilpahuja said:
@tiaguera79 Oh wow a thermocouple, that would be great, however to spare everyone this wiring stuff i will soon be coming out with a PT100 for upto 500C straight to the board, no changing pins and more accurate, its on my desk actually i just need to test it, then you can order from me as many as you want
2 hours ago, rajilpahuja said:I have it here, will test them this week and let you know, what is the temp u looking at btw, there are ones for 380-390 as well.
Looking for 450 because I need to print PEEK filament.
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And Yes it is a PT100. Sorry I didn’t answer before.
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15 hours ago, gr5 said:
Sounds like you are doing great then. You lost me a bit - is the AD547 used on the UM2 with the PT100? I guess if so you should hook up the pt100 and look at the output of the AD547 circuit with a volt meter and see if it's the right voltage. Send me a circuit diagram of what you did and I can tell you what voltage it should be putting out at room temperature.
Even better, send me a circuit diagram and include what voltages you measure on all the pins of the AD547 and the output of the circuit. I'm pretty good with op amps and circuits.
Seems to be working fine all the system... just measures it all... almost 5v all over... here is the sketch...
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12 hours ago, gr5 said:
Sounds like you are doing great then. You lost me a bit - is the AD547 used on the UM2 with the PT100? I guess if so you should hook up the pt100 and look at the output of the AD547 circuit with a volt meter and see if it's the right voltage. Send me a circuit diagram of what you did and I can tell you what voltage it should be putting out at room temperature.
Even better, send me a circuit diagram and include what voltages you measure on all the pins of the AD547 and the output of the circuit. I'm pretty good with op amps and circuits.
As on as you have them made I will want a pair.
Thank you and soon I’ll send the diagram...
tks again.
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Thank you very much in advance!
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35 minutes ago, gr5 said:
Sounds like you are doing great then. You lost me a bit - is the AD547 used on the UM2 with the PT100? I guess if so you should hook up the pt100 and look at the output of the AD547 circuit with a volt meter and see if it's the right voltage. Send me a circuit diagram of what you did and I can tell you what voltage it should be putting out at room temperature.
Even better, send me a circuit diagram and include what voltages you measure on all the pins of the AD547 and the output of the circuit. I'm pretty good with op amps and circuits.
Right! I will do that as soon as I get a Voltometer... for now this is what I’ve done...
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57 minutes ago, gr5 said:
Please describe what you bought. How many watts is the heated bed. How will you power it? Did you buy a separate controller for the heated bed?
What hot end are you using and more importantly does it use a PT100 for the temp sensor and if not a PT100 then what does it use. These are things that might require changes to the firmware.
Instructions for building the firmware are here:
I have followed word by word of this document. The only difference is that I have used two printerheads.
I am having trouble now with reading the wright temperature on first nozzle where I installed the AD547 thermoregulator.
I already changed pin address from 8 to 1 for heater_0, max temp to 600, heater type reader from 20 to -1, and all the new XYZ head positioning...
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On 27/12/2017 at 11:37 PM, gr5 said:
UM2? If so then you can build your own firmware or ask @tinkergnome if he might help you. There might be a version already but I don't think so: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin
Yes! UM2
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Hi all!
I have just installed the AD597 thermos amplifier and did all changing in Marlin so I could reach the 400+ Celsius degree...
the problem is that after doing so my readings are reaching as much as 125-135 degrees Celsius but the printer head reaches way higher temperatures. I have changed the original printer head for a two heads volcano model that reaches high temperatures.
I believe I am having trouble with the PID config or some Marlin detail.
please, If someone have had this problem and has any Idea on how I can fix it I would so much appreciate it.
tks in advance.
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hello! I have bought all the hardware upgrade to make the change needed for 400°C printing. but I can´t make sure I´ll change the software properly. where can I find the correct way to change software configuration so that cura does all the rest smoothly.
tks again.
tiago
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hi! do you have the HEX file so that I can upload on my UM2+ to make it possible to print PEEK?
I am having some trouble uploading my version of the edited firmware (too many log errors).
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Why does my print have tiny zebra stripes?
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Hi Torgeir!
I can’t thank you enough for your help!
I’ll fix it soon.
Best wishes!