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Everything posted by DF-Werkzeugservice

  1. Hi, you can use the "per model settings" and then choose as specified settings for the third model "bottom thickness" and set it to 0.
  2. Hi, you can always pause a print while printing on the screen live or through cura (if you have an active network connection to the printer of course). Once the print is paused, you can perform a firmware assisted material change and continue the print afterwards When you have a network connection (LAN or WiFi), you can monitor the print on the screen by the built in camera. Although you cant't monitor the filament, you can assume the extruded filament by the progress bar. But if you see in the camera that no more material is extruded, it's already too late to save your print. The Ultimaker 3 (Extended) comes completely pre-built and is ready to print out of the box. Although they are pre-calibrated from the ultimaker factory, it's recommended to run a build plate levelling and X/Y offset calibration at first. That shouldn't need longer than maybe 45 min.
  3. Did you recently update your slicer or changed the nozzle size?
  4. I've had the same with PLA. I couldn't even heat up the nozzles anymore because the material pulled out a cable on one of the printcores, which caused the UM to fail out immedeately after starting up. As I feared to damage anything with the heat gun, I decided to use a soldering iron to cut out the material piece for piece. I used a temperature regulated one to keep it hot enough to melt the PLA kind of fast but not so hot that it melts the other plastic parts of the print head when I accidently touched them. So it was many hours of work and as soon as I could recover one part of the print head, I disassembled that one to get better reachability of the remaining PLA. Unfortunately I could only get one printcore out in the end by destroying it completely. But still better than having to buy a whole new print head assembly.
  5. Thanks for all of your help. After taking the whole print head apart i found out that one soldering from the print head cable socket became loose after the ~6000h of printing which this machine has now. After resoldering it works again.
  6. Thanks for the answers. I've checked the cable, it's pushed in finde. Also the fan isn't blocked at all. I forgot to mention before: The cores don't start heating at all. They remain at ambient temparature (the sensor says so and I also physically checked with a thermometer)for a little time and then the error message appears (I suppose because of there's something like a runtime error in the firmware when the temperature dosn't change). Any other suggestions?
  7. Hi, since yesterday I get Heater errors on my Ultimaker 3 Extended. The errors occur in both slots and I have tried three different printcores. I have checked both connections of the printhead cable. The print head cable has been replaced a couple of weeks ago so I don't think that this is the problem. Does anyone have an idea what it could be? Thanks!
  8. Hallo @thopiekar, den 3DSolex Printcore gibt es auch mit der BB Geometrie. Meiner Meinung nach lohnt sich der 3DSolex Printcore schon alleine durch die auswechselbaren Düsen, was dir schon ab der ersten verstopften Düse Geld spart.
  9. I don't know which density and how many layers you are using for the dense support interface, but unless the density is maybe 90%+, keep in mind that - especially when printing in such a hot environment - your layers will also sagg a little through the support and the support interface itself can also sagg through the normal support. When you are looking for perfect, I can make two suggestions: 1) design the hole for 7 mm and use a drill bit or even better a reemer to drill it out - will give you a perfect dimension and the printed 7 mm hole helps to get it into the right space 2) will be pretty much trial and error - design the top half of the hole as ellyptic shape, modify the measurements until you get the desired result + I think on both ways you'll be able to print without support in the hole, which I assume is a pain in the ass to get out of there
  10. Hi, what material are you printing with? Which printer? Nozzle size etc...? you could try to increase the flow rate.
  11. When printing large parts with Ultimaker PLA, I lower the build plate temp to 40°C. Otherwise I get elephant feet and slight deformations. But like @Smithy mentioned, the rest of the settings are pretty perfect.
  12. You can get some great tips for bed adhesion at this topic: They are usually suitable for different kinds of printers and materials. Good luck ?
  13. I'm printing nearly only ABS and had a lot of struggling with it at the beginning. All the tips from @gr5 are very important to consider for printing ABS. You could also try turning the fan completely off (0%) and reducing your speed. For me actually thick layers at a high temperature work the best for strong bonding and no clooging (245°C / 0,3 mm layer height / 0.8 nozzle). When all your material is used up, I would give alternatives a try. I have made great experiences with the UM CPE and just the standard Cura settings. Maybe buying a roll of that or the before mentioned Tough PLA is worth the investment instead of wasting all the bought ABS on failed prints ?
  14. Hi, This looks like underextrusion. Make sure to clean your printcore often, maybe it's also worn out or "unfixable" partly clogged after that time and you need a new one. For me the UM ABS always used to work fine with standard settings. When I use Formfutura ABS, I had to go down with the printing speed, otherwise it always used to look like your pictures when making long prints. I figured out to reach higher speeds with Formfutura ABS with the Matchless Race nozzles by 3D Solex. With that setup (of course with some nozzle replacing), I'm printing about 3 kg Formfutura EasyFil ABS each week for the last 1.5 years on my UM3E with an success rate of maybe 80 - 85%.
  15. Here are some design tips, that help you to achieve good precision with 3D printing. Of course the values depend on your printer / material etc... that's something you can only find out by trying and playing. - due to the nature of the data format STL, diameters and radii (no matter if inside or outside) get smaller during the data conversion. So you should design them a little bigger than desired, a couple of tenth millimeters, depending on the conversion resolution - the bigger outside corners @SandervG mentioned get smoother, if you design them with a small radius (~1 mm) - if you part has only one measurement that should be as exact as possible, try to orient that in Z. Thats for my experience the most accurate axis, though it can only print multiples of the layer height + the initial layer height
  16. Did the prime tower look well in the bad printed areas?
  17. I would try playing around with the settings retraction extra prime amount and coasting...
  18. Hi, some more information would be useful: - Are you using a prime tower? - Are the outer walls visible in the Cura preview?
  19. I print large ABS objects for industrial purposes. So besides a good bed adhesion, downtime on the printer is also a big factor to me. That led me away from any glue or something similar on the printbed, as a wanted to save the time from continuous coating and cleaning of the buildplate. I use BuildTak with two Flexplates that I switch after every print, which is working great for me. I know they're pretty expensive, but if you take care of them they last pretty long. Taking care means whenever putting a new sheet on, making sure to get the correct distance. If the distance is to big, it won't adhere. If it's to close it adheres to good and the sheet will get damaged when you remove the print. A good way is to level the bed an put a Z- Offset in. Then make test prints, slowly lowering your Z- Offset until you get the desired result. One downside is that the active levelling of the UM3 doesn't really work well, as the surface is kind of soft and gives inconsistent results, so I just stay with manual levelling. You don't really need it for PLA, although this also sticks like hell to it. Before removing a PLA print, you should heat the buildplate to around 40°C, otherwise you'll pretty sure damage the sheet. P.S.: I don't hold any shares on BuildTak, just like that stuff so much that I thought it should be mentioned here ?
  20. Hi, ich bin mir ziemlich sicher dass das Problem an der STL bzw. nativen CAD Datei liegt. Ich kann sowohl in Cura als auch in Simplify3D das Problem reproduzieren, ergo hat es nichts mit den Cura Einstellungen zu tun. Wenn ich das Modell auf Netzfehler untersuche, werden die Kanten der runden Flächen markiert (siehe Bild). Das Problem tritt bei "unsauberen" nativen CAD Dateien oder STL Exportfehlern auf. Prüfe mal, ob die native Datei als einzelner Körper "verschmolzen" ist, oder ob sich dahinter zwei sich überschneidende Körper verbergen. Auch sonstige "unsauberen" Konstruktionen können Probleme auslösen, z.B. ein automatischer Kanten- oder Flächenschließassistent. Viel Erfolg!
  21. Layer shifting is always a mechanical issue... I don't have an idea of any other settings than the already mentioned ones in cura have something to do with it. You could switch the X and Y stepper to take a look if it's an issue with the stepper itself.
  22. Hi, actually I haven't tried the 3dsolex BB Cores. But the AA matchless race are just awesome! Definitely worth the money plus the fact of cheaper nozzle replacement.
  23. the z-Hop is a cura Setting. Thus means the print bed gets lowered a little before each travel move, which prevents the nozzle from hitting the printed Part. You're sure the glass plate ja conpletely fixed by the clamps?
  24. Well despite you already did that, i'd recheck the pulleys, Belt Tension and if the Motor is tight mounted. You could also Move the print head fast by hand and Check if the pulleys and belts are following the movements.
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