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the z-Hop is a cura Setting. Thus means the print bed gets lowered a little before each travel move, which prevents the nozzle from hitting the printed Part. You're sure the glass plate ja conpletely fixed by the clamps?

Well despite you already did that, i'd recheck the pulleys, Belt Tension and if the Motor is tight mounted. You could also Move the print head fast by hand and Check if the pulleys and belts are following the movements.

Do you have the z-Hop enabled?

Sorry, typo i meant 'Lots of retractions'. The Problem i described has nothing to do with the gcode, it can appear differently on each Printer. Imagine After each retraction the filament gets fed forward .01 mm to less. At the first couple of retractions you won't recognize that. But it sums up over the time and especially at the Top of your model, where there are many Details like little islands in the layer, the quote of retractions in Relation to the printed area rises extremely. So this little mistake sums up until you suffer from recognizable underextrusion. In the setting 'extra prime amount After retraction' (or similar) you can set a length that the filament gets additional fed forward after the retraction. I would start with .1 mm and lower that if you suffer from blobs.

I'm not really familiar with printing PVA, but I've had similar issues with other filaments. Setting an extra prime amount after retraction solved it! Especially with support materials I prefer having a little blob at the beginning after the retraction than suffering from underextrusion midprint.

Actually you can't really see the "micro collisions". But you can hear them, especially when the print head is travelling over Infill oder Support. It's a slight rattering, like when you go with your finger over a comb or something like that... But they happen usually more on ABS than on PLA due to the warping. Does the shift happen always at the same height each print?

Hi, wie @Nicolinux schon vorgeschlagen hat, Lift Switch neu kalibrieren, ist eine Sache von Sekunden:) Auch bei mir kamen nach längerer Verwendung des Druckers knackende Geräusche. Seither packe ich ein bis zwei Tropfen Magnalube auf die Gleitflächen der Hebemimik, seitdem läuft es wieder wörtlich wie geschmiert. Wäre auch einen Versuch wert!

Hi, for me this looks like the X Motor is skipping steps at some point. Are you using Cura as slicer and single extrusion? I've experienced skipped steps so far by the following reasons: - overtravelling print boundaries when using another slicer than cura - collisions with the print itself, caused by warping - sticking print head cable / bowden tube when using 3rd party enclosures - sometimes when using the assisted filament change during the print (can't remember the Firmware version) If none of the above reasons is possible for you, I'd try reducing travel speed and acceleration. Especially with pretty high prints like that one I've recognized some "micro collisions" between the print core and the previous layer. The faster the print core is moving, the more likely it is for it to loose steps - at least that's my experience.

Maybe then the investment 6$ + shipping for 5 parts would be a good idea ?

Hi, I haven’t found any kind of technical spare parts list. I usually keep the UM3 maintenance kit and the belt set in stock, to make sure to fix small issues just in time. You could get the measurements by just measuring your printer ;) On you concern with the tape: I’m printing since more than a year with one of my printers (UM3E) without the silicone cover. I’m only printing stuff that doesn’t need special bridging abilities or very high precision. So I don’t really care about the the airflow not being perfectly. I haven’t made any other bad experiences with the lack ob the cover - but no guarantee ;)

Hi, it looks like there are lots kg retractions at the Top of the Building. Try to increase the extra Prime amount After retraction. Also Check if the filament je ground down by the Feeder. That ground down Area causes underextrusion as soon as it gets to the hotend. Next Tipp would be lowering the Speed.

Hi, in general the printer works also without this cover. If you buy the maintenance kit, there are 5 spares: https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-3-spare-parts/products/ultimaker-3-maintenance-kit-mk you can also get only the silicone parts pretty cheap: https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-3-spare-parts/products/ultimaker-3-silicone-nozzle-coverum3-um3x

Hallo, wie es aussieht versuchst du hier eine Karosse zu drucken. Da die Karosserieteile ja nur wenige mm dick sind, werden diese beim Skalieeren so dünn, dass der Slicer sie ignoriert, weil sie mit der Düse nicht druckbar sind. Ich würde die Wandstärken des Modells im CAD dicker machen, so dass dann beim verwendeten Skalierungsfaktor druckbare Wandstärken herauskommen. Meiner Ansicht nach hat das nichts mit der STL Datei zu tun. Stand nämlich mal vor dem gleichen Problem mt einem Fahrzeugmodell ? Evtl. zusätzlich eine kleinere Düse in betracht zeihen, das Modell wegen des Skalierens viele kleine Details hat. Viele Grüße

Hi, von mir werden mehrere Ultimaker im industriellen Umfeld betrieben. Kannst mir gerne eine PM schicken. Viele Grüße

Hi, first of all, I think this print is impossible to get in shape without support in the areas that schould fit in tight tolerances. Maybe you could define the support to be only in the parts that need to be fitting. As far as I can see, it shouldn't be too hard to remove as these are the areas at the outer sides anyway. In general my advise for printing inner diameters with tight tolerances: design them about 0.2 smaller than desired and rework them with a reemer or drill bit. So you can achieve pretty tight tolerances. On your problem with getting it airtight without a second extruder for dissolvable support material you could try to design the walls thicker. I'd also recommend the print orentiation in my sketch with the mode support to buildplate. Sou you'll get you fit parts in pretty good tolerance from printing already and the problems with the missing support and not being airtight will only come up in the red marked area. There you could try a thicker wall of the CAD model. If you lower the layer height, your bridging problems will also get smaller, as the horizontal shift per layer into the air is smaller. I hope that helps you! P.S.: as you can see I'm a god with paint ?

Hi, is there a possiblity to change the display name in the Forum? Thanks!

Hi, I haven't had any issues with the Z distance after active levelling. So beofore you try experimenting I'd recommend to make sure that the active levelling process is working really fine (original UM printcores, both of them need to be really really clean, I usually use a brass brush, clean glass plate without any residues of old prints or glue etc...). If this doesn't solve your problem, you could use the little trick I used when experimenting with different build platform adhesion sheets. As the adhesion sheets like e.g. BuildTak or also painter's tape have a kind of soft surface, the auto levelling of the ultimaker doesn't work due to the used capacity measuring concept. So I did active levelling just with the glass plate to get the relative surface shape of the print bed. Afterwards I put manually a positive or negativeZ - offset into the slicer, depending on the thickness of the platform addition. Then I carfeully monitored the first layer of my prints and fine tuned that value. As you don't use any adhesion sheets, you can set the Z- offset to 0 and increase it until your first layer looks fine (I usually use 0.05 increments). I use mostly Simplify3D as a Slicer, there you can adjust the Z - offset in the section "gcode". If you use Cura, you first have to install the plugin "Start at Z-Heigt". I hope this helps

Hi, I'm printing lots of ABS with support material. After experimenting with many supports, I sticked with High-T-Lay by Lay Filaments. This is not officially supportet as it's not a UM material but it works very good. It's a kind of high temperature PVA. Essential for the bond is a good calibration of the X/Y shift of your printcores and the Z difference. When the calibration is fine, it bonds pretty strong to your ABS print, it also prevents supportet parts from warping. It dissolves (pretty slow) in warm, circulating water. Despite it's a PVA based material, I get besser results and less clogging using the AA Core.

Hello, I would like to print an object with 199x199 mm. Shouldn't be a problem with the UM3, which is advertised with 215x215 mm. Unfortunately it is. Cura has grey "no print" areas which prevent me from doing this. I have the following settings adjusted: - Only left extruder in use - no prime tower - no prime blob - no skirt / brim / raft The model still wouldn't fit with more than 97% scale. The areas that are still grey are from the plate clamps, the nozzle switch and the camera I suppose. When I slice the modle in S3D it and position it correctly on the plate, it gets printed by the printer without any collisions, the dimensions are as desired when the print is finished. So is there any possibility I could slice and print that model out of Cura? Thanks for the help! Edit: Screenshots of both slicers (Cura / S3D) attached. The S3D gcode printed very well, so it's physically possible if Cura would let me...

Hi, it's either US oder Germany. The listed resellers have the maintenance kit in their shop, but not a belt set.

Hi, does anyone know where I can purchase a complete belt set for the UM3 or UM3 extended? Thanks!

OK, this night it showed ER18 communication problem with the print head after stopping...

Hi, since a few days my prints stop at random points. This occurs sometimes after 2 hours, sometimes after 18 hours at different locations in the same gcode. The printer stops but doesn't show an error message at all. The menu doesn't react to any commands and I have to restart the printer. In another topic I have read that this can be caused by 3.6 firmware. I've updated it to 4 but the problem still occurs. Thanks for you help!

I'm impressed! The quality with the 0.8 Hardcore at 0.3 layer height is nearly not recognizable worse than with 0.4 nozzle at 0.2 layer! No sign of clogging so far at 7.2 mm³/s, I think I'll be able to even increase that. Whenever I get the confirmation for the next UM3 by my boss, I'll order an other set of hardcores just in time. By the way thanks for all the tools that come with it!

So, using idle temperatures didn't solve my problem. But printing with 50% speed does! But honestly this really feds me up as I'm with 2,7 mm³/s now (before: 5,4 mm³/s with constantly clogging) and the datasheet sheet says there are 16 mm³/s. For this order of my customer I have calculated with 10 mm³/s before I had an UM and was going to buy a second, to get the job done in the time. So this now means I'm going to need 8? I'm kind of disappointed with this datasheet...