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Everything posted by Reznor9

  1. I used cura when I first got my 3d printer about two years ago. But I didn’t like not being able to control my support structures so I went with S3D. It’s worked flawless for my on my other printers. But I’m just having issues trying to tune it for the UM2.
  2. Okay so I started a print using the 180 temp since it seemed to be the one that offered the best bridging. But now my prints seem to be really weak. Just printed a Philament astronaut guy and he is very frail. I can squeeze him to pieces between two fingers. So I guess I’m not getting good layer adhesion at this temp. Any advice? Or does anyone have a S3D profile I can try?
  3. update. Ran the temp tower test using temps beteeen 220-180 in 5 degree intervals. The temp of 180 seems to produce the best bridging but still has a slight sagging of the initial passes. I had my extrusion multiplier at 1.5 and turned it down to 1.0 and ran the test again but came out with basically the same results. Should I keep going lower on the. Extrusion multiplier or is there another setting I should be looking at?
  4. Im printing in PLA using the default settings for the UM2 in Simplify3d and its not printing bridging very well.. seems to go very slow and it oozes all over the place. Im currently printing a temp tower to see if there is any improvement with variations in temp... so far Ive tried turing fans 100% on bridging, increasing speed by 100% on bridging and Ive activated apply bridging settings to perimeter and that didn't seem to fix. Id also like to add that I have upgraded my feeder to a Bondtech QR and Ive upgraded the firmware as instructed by bondtech. Thanks
  5. Just wanted to update. I haven't yet received the new bowden tube, but I did receive my new Olsson block, which came with a new teflon spacer and spring and swapped everything out. It seems like the clogging issue has been resolved. Thanks for all your help guys.
  6. I have in the past printed with a lot of ABS before I decided to change over to PLA.. Although I have changed out a lot of parts, to my knowledge I haven't changed out the teflon spacer... I recently ordered a new Olsson Block kit from amazon because I wanted to have a spare block and some spare nozzles... Unlike the previous kit,I believe this one comes with the teflon spacer. I should get it this coming week when I get my new bowden tube... Ill probably just swap out all the parts again and see if the problem persists. Thank you for your input.
  7. Thanks. I just put in an order for a new bowden tube. I replaced it about a year ago, but to be honest i dont like it because its only semi transparent and makes it difficult to see how easily the filament is moving. Hopefully it has an impact and solved the issue.
  8. I purchased a used ultimaker 2 and am at a loss for what can be wrong with it. The prints will under extrude and the nozzle will eventually clog and ruin the print. Ive done the following thinking there was a weak link in the chain. Ive upgraded the feeder to the Bondtech QR Upgrade kit. Ive swapped out my nozzle setup with a WINSINN Olsson Heater Block Hotend and replaced the heating element because I broke it when I was trying to remove it from the original block. Ive done all these things attempting to figure out what the issue might be but now Im at a loss. What could it be? Do
  9. Kinda disappointed with the lack of response to this. Anyhow I diagnosed it myself since there was no community assistance. In case anyone else has a similar issue I’ll post my findings. It appears it was a faulty feed tube that was causing friction while feeding the filament to the hotend and ultimately would cause underexteusion and nozzle jams. I replaced my PTFE tube with a new one and I haven’t had any issues since. I performed 3 abs test prints at .1 mm layer height and they all came out beautifully.
  10. I had to wiggle mine back and forth(as in clockwise and counter clockwise). Then I gave it a good amount of pressure in the right direction and it came loose. Unfortunately my temp sensor was forever jammed in the block and broke off inside. I couldn’t remove the broken end and had to just replace the block with an olsson block.
  11. when the machine works like it is supposed to, it produces lovely prints like this. This was done using the same ABS at the same temps and layer height. The areas that appear a little rough were where the supports were removed.
  12. I had this issue for a while, so thinking it was just a clog I was constantly removing the block and cleaning out the nozzle when it would appear that the atomic pulls weren't doing the trick. When the problem persisted I decided I would swap over to an olsson block and installed the .4mm nozzle... also swapped out with a new temp sensor since the old one refused to separate from the block and broke off. Im using IC3D black ABS filament at 250 nozzle, 95 bed. printing at .1 layer height at 40mm/s Im not sure why but the problem continues. The only other things I can think of are either its
  13. Ive been searching this issue via google and Ive found this is just how the UM prints infill as many others also suffer from the same issue... the infill speeds seem to be set so fast that they don't have time to extrude properly. I already have my default speeds set to 40mm in S3D which should in turn slow down the infill as well but the infill pattern is still bad. Luckily is hasn't effected my outer surface and still produces beautiful prints but Im guessing the parts aren't as strong as they would be with proper support.
  14. (Info on print, Im using IC3D ABS and heating the nozzle to 250. Print is set to .1 layer height, fan setting to 15%... sliced in S3D) I thought maybe it was due to a clog in the nozzle so after several atomic method pulls it continued to be an issue. So I then thought maybe I would swap my stock nozzle over to the newer Olsson Block. I did so and screwed on a .4 nozzle... re-leveled the bed and begun the print. Same issue. So I then thought maybe my temp sensor is bad and it isn't heating the nozzle to the correct temp. I replaced it with a brand new temp sensor... no change. Infill still
  15. third print came out just as good, and just as bad.. the same ear was messed up... maybe its the way its sliced when at that layer height? Ill have to look at it or when parts go thin and to a point on prints i might have to change up the layer thickness at the top? I dunno.. Im really new to all these settings. But I do appreciate the help Ive gotten so far... my prints are far better than when I started using this thing a week or two ago.
  16. more than halfway through with my 3rd test print of this piece. I kept all the settings the same, but I upped the print speed to 50mm/sec, brought the infill down to 20% and made custom set points to increase and decrease percentage of fan the piece gets according to overhangs and the ears. Hopefully the print comes out perfectly. Ill know in another hour or two.
  17. Its not bad. But its not great. I tuned the settings a little last night and printed it over again. I went down to a .08mm layer height I slowed down the print speed to 35mm Nozzle temp decreased to 240 Bed temp remained at 100 Fans kick on at 30% when it reaches layer 10. And I also changed retraction speed to 4.5 (default I think was 4) Print came out much nicer with the exception of the ears. They didn't solidify quickly enough I guess and didnt look as sharp as the previous .15 layer print... not sure if I needed to turn up the fans more when it reaches the ears or increase
  18. So I duplicated your settings in Simplify3D and the print lines still seem extremely noticeable. Im not sure if this is just as good as it gets or if I just need to keep tweaking. I just heard so much about the Ultimaker printers that I expected them to be equal or better than the zortrax. I decided to print a little batman bust and when looking straight at it, it looks lovely, all the details are there.. but when you slightly shift your angle you see how pronounced every print line is. Now Im not expecting perfection, but I expect the depth from one print layer to the next to be a little m
  19. I have Simplify3D as well. My last print was using 40mm/sec at 0.14mm layers... my fans were on from the start I think at 30% but I don't think it had any ill effect on bed adhesion as i didn't have any problems there. I can turn down the fans to 20% and turn up the nozzle temp to 250 and move my print speed up to 50mm to see if it makes a difference. I just installed a plexiglass front door and at the moment am enclosing the top with a trash bag... Ill need to throw in a thermometer and look for temperature fluctuations. Ill also be changing out the bowden feeder tube because I suspect
  20. hmm.. I've created a plexiglass door for the front and am enclosing the top in the same manner as I do the zortrax. Ive had zero issues thus far with bed adhesion with the Ultimaker using the glue stick on the glass... If that is really the case of ultimaker not being tuned for ABS, then that is a shame. :( as it is my favorite material due to its ease of sanding. But just to be straight, are you saying that my current ABS results are pretty much the norm of how the Ultimaker prints ABS? Or do you think other than enclosure, is there anything else I can attempt?
  21. Ive since purchased simplify3d and tried printing up another item. I can say, without a doubt that the support structures via simplify3d are superior thus far and peel off easily. Now that said... my settings changed a little using simplify3d but my results of surface quality remained comparable to what I got using cura. same filament leveled bed again. Print Speed: 40mm Infill: 30% Nozzle Temp: 230 Bed Temp: 100 Flow: 100% Fans: 30% Layer Height: .14mm Enclosed top and front to maintain temp. used glue stick on glass. surface quality still has not improved. I would a
  22. Ive since purchased simplify3d and tried printing up another item. I can say, without a doubt that the support structures via simplify3d are superior thus far and peel off easily. Now that said... my settings changed a little using simplify3d but my results of surface quality remained comparable to what I got using cura. same filament leveled bed again. Print Speed: 40mm Infill: 30% Nozzle Temp: 230 Bed Temp: 100 Flow: 100% Fans: 30% Layer Height: .14mm Enclosed top and front to maintain temp. used glue stick on glass. surface quality still has not improved. I would a
  23. I just purchased my Ultimaker 2. It was used, but only had 183 hours on the usage stats. I purchased some IC3D black ABS. Leveled the bed. Purchased Simplify3D. Used Glue stick on the glass bed. I printed a mask using 2 different printers. The top half of the mask was using my Ultimaker and for the first print I used the latest cura as the slicing software. Layer Height: FINE 0.1mm Print Speed: 50mm Raft: yes Supports: Yes Nozzle Temp: 250 Bed Temp: 100 Flow:107%, then lowered to 100 via the tune settings halfway thought the print to see if it yielded any noticeable changes in qua
  24. I piece together the two pieces of this mask. The top half was my first print from my Ultimaker2 at .1mm layer height using the latest cura with default ABS settings. Turned out pretty bad. But will be usable with a little sanding and filler. The bottom half was printed on my Zortrax at a .14mm layer height, and as always it turned out beautifully. I wasn't sure what to expect size wise using two different model printers, but was very happy that they printed with dimensional accuracy so they didn't have any issue fitting together. I almost want to print the top half again since I purchased
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