Reznor9
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Posts posted by Reznor9
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Okay so I started a print using the 180 temp since it seemed to be the one that offered the best bridging. But now my prints seem to be really weak. Just printed a Philament astronaut guy and he is very frail. I can squeeze him to pieces between two fingers. So I guess I’m not getting good layer adhesion at this temp. Any advice? Or does anyone have a S3D profile I can try?
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6 hours ago, johnse said:
Some pictures would be helpful
Here is the temp tower results.
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update. Ran the temp tower test using temps beteeen 220-180 in 5 degree intervals. The temp of 180 seems to produce the best bridging but still has a slight sagging of the initial passes.
I had my extrusion multiplier at 1.5 and turned it down to 1.0 and ran the test again but came out with basically the same results. Should I keep going lower on the. Extrusion multiplier or is there another setting I should be looking at?
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Im printing in PLA using the default settings for the UM2 in Simplify3d and its not printing bridging very well.. seems to go very slow and it oozes all over the place.
Im currently printing a temp tower to see if there is any improvement with variations in temp...
so far Ive tried turing fans 100% on bridging, increasing speed by 100% on bridging and Ive activated apply bridging settings to perimeter and that didn't seem to fix.
Id also like to add that I have upgraded my feeder to a Bondtech QR and Ive upgraded the firmware as instructed by bondtech.
Thanks in advance
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Just wanted to update. I haven't yet received the new bowden tube, but I did receive my new Olsson block, which came with a new teflon spacer and spring and swapped everything out.
It seems like the clogging issue has been resolved. Thanks for all your help guys.
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13 hours ago, gr5 said:
When you replaced the heater block did you replace the teflon part. That's the part that fails most often. Especially if you printed any ABS at all as it fails faster at higher temperatures.
I have in the past printed with a lot of ABS before I decided to change over to PLA.. Although I have changed out a lot of parts, to my knowledge I haven't changed out the teflon spacer... I recently ordered a new Olsson Block kit from amazon because I wanted to have a spare block and some spare nozzles... Unlike the previous kit,I believe this one comes with the teflon spacer. I should get it this coming week when I get my new bowden tube... Ill probably just swap out all the parts again and see if the problem persists. Thank you for your input.
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On 8/17/2019 at 5:36 AM, stu_le_brew said:
It would be worth taking the Bowden tube off and trying with a piece of filament if the tube feels rough.
In the five years I have had my UM2 I have changed the tube at least once, some times in a desperate attempt to solve an extrusion problem. You have changed all of the other elements in the materiel feed chain
good luck
Thanks. I just put in an order for a new bowden tube. I replaced it about a year ago, but to be honest i dont like it because its only semi transparent and makes it difficult to see how easily the filament is moving. Hopefully it has an impact and solved the issue.
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I purchased a used ultimaker 2 and am at a loss for what can be wrong with it. The prints will under extrude and the nozzle will eventually clog and ruin the print. Ive done the following thinking there was a weak link in the chain. Ive upgraded the feeder to the Bondtech QR Upgrade kit. Ive swapped out my nozzle setup with a WINSINN Olsson Heater Block Hotend and replaced the heating element because I broke it when I was trying to remove it from the original block. Ive done all these things attempting to figure out what the issue might be but now Im at a loss. What could it be?
Doesn't matter if Im using ABS or PLA, The nozzle seems to constantly clog at the start of the print. If for some reason the print is successful, the nozzle will 100% of the time need to be atomic cleaned or else it will not extrude at all during the start of the next print.
Can anyone offer any assistance?
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Kinda disappointed with the lack of response to this. Anyhow I diagnosed it myself since there was no community assistance. In case anyone else has a similar issue I’ll post my findings. It appears it was a faulty feed tube that was causing friction while feeding the filament to the hotend and ultimately would cause underexteusion and nozzle jams. I replaced my PTFE tube with a new one and I haven’t had any issues since. I performed 3 abs test prints at .1 mm layer height and they all came out beautifully.
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I had to wiggle mine back and forth(as in clockwise and counter clockwise). Then I gave it a good amount of pressure in the right direction and it came loose. Unfortunately my temp sensor was forever jammed in the block and broke off inside. I couldn’t remove the broken end and had to just replace the block with an olsson block.
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when the machine works like it is supposed to, it produces lovely prints like this. This was done using the same ABS at the same temps and layer height. The areas that appear a little rough were where the supports were removed.
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I had this issue for a while, so thinking it was just a clog I was constantly removing the block and cleaning out the nozzle when it would appear that the atomic pulls weren't doing the trick. When the problem persisted I decided I would swap over to an olsson block and installed the .4mm nozzle... also swapped out with a new temp sensor since the old one refused to separate from the block and broke off.
Im using IC3D black ABS filament at 250 nozzle, 95 bed.
printing at .1 layer height at 40mm/s
Im not sure why but the problem continues. The only other things I can think of are either its a problem with the extruder or the feed tube. I have also noticed that every other print seems to jam at startup and require me to hit the change filament option... when I reload the filament the following print starts up fine. Could anyone offer any advice?
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Ive been searching this issue via google and Ive found this is just how the UM prints infill as many others also suffer from the same issue... the infill speeds seem to be set so fast that they don't have time to extrude properly. I already have my default speeds set to 40mm in S3D which should in turn slow down the infill as well but the infill pattern is still bad. Luckily is hasn't effected my outer surface and still produces beautiful prints but Im guessing the parts aren't as strong as they would be with proper support.
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(Info on print, Im using IC3D ABS and heating the nozzle to 250. Print is set to .1 layer height, fan setting to 15%... sliced in S3D)
I thought maybe it was due to a clog in the nozzle so after several atomic method pulls it continued to be an issue.
So I then thought maybe I would swap my stock nozzle over to the newer Olsson Block. I did so and screwed on a .4 nozzle... re-leveled the bed and begun the print. Same issue.
So I then thought maybe my temp sensor is bad and it isn't heating the nozzle to the correct temp. I replaced it with a brand new temp sensor... no change. Infill still seems to print very thin as if under extruding... but the walls of the print and upper and lower surfaces are damn perfect, with no signs of under-extrusion. Does anyone know what might be the issue?
This seems to only be an issue as far as I can tell at .1 layer height and below... as at .15 layer height it seems to print the infill just fine.
here is an example of the infill at .1 layer height within a calibration cube. As you can see the infill pattern is broken and doesn't connect in several areas. Any ideas why this is happening?
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third print came out just as good, and just as bad.. the same ear was messed up... maybe its the way its sliced when at that layer height? Ill have to look at it or when parts go thin and to a point on prints i might have to change up the layer thickness at the top? I dunno.. Im really new to all these settings. But I do appreciate the help Ive gotten so far... my prints are far better than when I started using this thing a week or two ago.
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more than halfway through with my 3rd test print of this piece.
I kept all the settings the same, but I upped the print speed to 50mm/sec, brought the infill down to 20% and made custom set points to increase and decrease percentage of fan the piece gets according to overhangs and the ears. Hopefully the print comes out perfectly. Ill know in another hour or two.
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I don't think that's too bad a print for ABS as it doesn't print as well as NextGen or others. Where you see the very noticeable lines at the top of the shoulders is purely a function of layer height. Lowering layer height will greatly diminish these. You can go down to about 0.04mm layer height or less. Less quite often doesn't make much difference though it might on this section. In S3D you can also print different sections at different layer heights so that you can print fine where you need to without slowing the whole print down. Use the variable settings wizard under the tools menu and change the layer height for each process. Maybe find a smaller model to experiment with.
Its not bad. But its not great.
I tuned the settings a little last night and printed it over again.
I went down to a .08mm layer height
I slowed down the print speed to 35mm
Nozzle temp decreased to 240
Bed temp remained at 100
Fans kick on at 30% when it reaches layer 10.
And I also changed retraction speed to 4.5 (default I think was 4)
Print came out much nicer with the exception of the ears. They didn't solidify quickly enough I guess and didnt look as sharp as the previous .15 layer print... not sure if I needed to turn up the fans more when it reaches the ears or increase the print speed or what.
To those that are knowledgable to how each setting effects what, are there any changes I made that were probably pointless? Could I have achieved the same quality at 50mm speeds?
LEFT .08 - RIGHT .15
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I've been using S3D with enclosure and door maintaining 45 degrees C
Nozzle 250
Bed 100
Fan off till 10 layers (when doing 0.15mm layers) then at 20%
Same models were splitting before I used the enclosure
Using just enough fan for better overhangs and tops
At 50mm/sec. at 0.15mm layers but also printing finer layers and slower speeds with good results
I'm sure CURA would print good with the same settings
So I duplicated your settings in Simplify3D and the print lines still seem extremely noticeable. Im not sure if this is just as good as it gets or if I just need to keep tweaking. I just heard so much about the Ultimaker printers that I expected them to be equal or better than the zortrax.
I decided to print a little batman bust and when looking straight at it, it looks lovely, all the details are there.. but when you slightly shift your angle you see how pronounced every print line is. Now Im not expecting perfection, but I expect the depth from one print layer to the next to be a little more subtle.. I guess my zortrax has just spoiled me on how well it prints and how seemingly invisible the print lines are.
I willing to try whatever and keep printing these test pieces if anyone has any additional suggestions.
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I've been using S3D with enclosure and door maintaining 45 degrees C
Nozzle 250
Bed 100
Fan off till 10 layers (when doing 0.15mm layers) then at 20%
Same models were splitting before I used the enclosure
Using just enough fan for better overhangs and tops
At 50mm/sec. at 0.15mm layers but also printing finer layers and slower speeds with good results
I'm sure CURA would print good with the same settings
I have Simplify3D as well. My last print was using 40mm/sec at 0.14mm layers... my fans were on from the start I think at 30% but I don't think it had any ill effect on bed adhesion as i didn't have any problems there.
I can turn down the fans to 20% and turn up the nozzle temp to 250 and move my print speed up to 50mm to see if it makes a difference.
I just installed a plexiglass front door and at the moment am enclosing the top with a trash bag... Ill need to throw in a thermometer and look for temperature fluctuations.
Ill also be changing out the bowden feeder tube because I suspect there might be some warping at the ends which maybe is causing some resistance on the filament.
Ill also use some sewing machine oil and lube up the X and Y axis rods to make sure they are not dry and at fault... then there is always the off chance that the filament is just crap... I saw online that the IC3D filament is decent(better than the Chinese knock off brands), though not the best. it seems constant and doesn't appear to have moisture or hollow spots that I've noticed so Im giving it the benefit of the doubt right now.
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I have to say I am impressed with the Zortrax result but having said that it was designed with ABS being the main objective. everything else came second.
ABS must have an enclosure, there is no getting away from that.
I print a lot with ABS and very rarely get that result as you have with the Zortrax. My enclosure is on my UM2+.
Maybe this is the next challenge for Ultimaker to have a full enclosure and achieve that level of quality.
hmm.. I've created a plexiglass door for the front and am enclosing the top in the same manner as I do the zortrax. Ive had zero issues thus far with bed adhesion with the Ultimaker using the glue stick on the glass... If that is really the case of ultimaker not being tuned for ABS, then that is a shame. :( as it is my favorite material due to its ease of sanding.
But just to be straight, are you saying that my current ABS results are pretty much the norm of how the Ultimaker prints ABS? Or do you think other than enclosure, is there anything else I can attempt?
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Ive since purchased simplify3d and tried printing up another item.
I can say, without a doubt that the support structures via simplify3d are superior thus far and peel off easily. Now that said... my settings changed a little using simplify3d but my results of surface quality remained comparable to what I got using cura.
same filament
leveled bed again.
Print Speed: 40mm
Infill: 30%
Nozzle Temp: 230
Bed Temp: 100
Flow: 100%
Fans: 30%
Layer Height: .14mm
Enclosed top and front to maintain temp.
used glue stick on glass.
surface quality still has not improved. I would appreciate any help anyone can offer.
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Ive since purchased simplify3d and tried printing up another item.
I can say, without a doubt that the support structures via simplify3d are superior thus far and peel off easily. Now that said... my settings changed a little using simplify3d but my results of surface quality remained comparable to what I got using cura.
same filament
leveled bed again.
Print Speed: 40mm
Infill: 30%
Nozzle Temp: 230
Bed Temp: 100
Flow: 100%
Fans: 30%
Layer Height: .14mm
Enclosed top and front to maintain temp.
used glue stick on glass.
surface quality still has not improved. I would appreciate any help anyone can offer.
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I just purchased my Ultimaker 2. It was used, but only had 183 hours on the usage stats.
I purchased some IC3D black ABS.
Leveled the bed.
Purchased Simplify3D.
Used Glue stick on the glass bed.
I printed a mask using 2 different printers.
The top half of the mask was using my Ultimaker and for the first print I used the latest cura as the slicing software.
Layer Height: FINE 0.1mm
Print Speed: 50mm
Raft: yes
Supports: Yes
Nozzle Temp: 250
Bed Temp: 100
Flow:107%, then lowered to 100 via the tune settings halfway thought the print to see if it yielded any noticeable changes in quality... which it didn't as far as I could see.
Fans:40%
The bottom half of the mask was printed using my zortrax m200 at .14mm layer height and the results were much smoother than the ultimaker, and it is my goal to be able to replicate that level of detail.
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I piece together the two pieces of this mask. The top half was my first print from my Ultimaker2 at .1mm layer height using the latest cura with default ABS settings. Turned out pretty bad. But will be usable with a little sanding and filler.
The bottom half was printed on my Zortrax at a .14mm layer height, and as always it turned out beautifully. I wasn't sure what to expect size wise using two different model printers, but was very happy that they printed with dimensional accuracy so they didn't have any issue fitting together.
I almost want to print the top half again since I purchased Simplify3D... but I don't feel like using anymore filament when I should be able to fix the one I already printed. Oh well.. Ill be printing up another large mask this week and Ill have to see how the pieces turn out.
Need help with S3D bridge settings for PLA
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
I used cura when I first got my 3d printer about two years ago. But I didn’t like not being able to control my support structures so I went with S3D. It’s worked flawless for my on my other printers. But I’m just having issues trying to tune it for the UM2.