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  1. Alright, I haven't touch the temperature/speed settings, so it might be a bad batch... I'll look at it closely. Thanks again.
  2. Hi again Geert_2, I didn't know there was different ends to the bowden tubes, but now it's in a correct position. Good to know. I have tried every single step in your message and everything went as well as you could expect. After that, I still couldn't figure out what was wrong. Since I suspected the print head to be the cause of my problem, I decided to replace the teflon coupler again. Even though it didn't show important signs of use and is still quite new, I guess it was the problem 'cause the printings seem fine for now. Could it be possible that it worn out faster for some r
  3. Thank you! Even though I did most of those, I'll try again and see what happens! I'll come back to you.
  4. Yeah, I've been dealing with this since September and I still haven't found the answer...
  5. No, I use the same software with the same profile for my two other printers and everything works with the others. I tried to switch the exact same file from my U2E+ to this printer. It is a successful print with the U2E+, but fails with the U2
  6. Yes, I also thought about it, but even after cleaning the nozzle the problem remains. Also, when the brim comes out, it's almost ok, so a clogged nozzle doesn't seem to be the problem.
  7. Hi, thanks for your answer. Yes, the knurled wheel is ok.
  8. Hi, I wanted to know which hidden setting is the cause for this difference between the number of meters and the print time of the same model, but on two different printers. As you can see, the print on the U3E takes 7h32 min with 9,16 m while the same stl on the U2E takes 6h41 min and 8,70 m. Both print setup have a grid infill pattern at 20%, the same brim and the same layer height. From what I see, they are identical. I use Cura 3.4 since my computer's software is too old to support the newer versions. I noticed this difference between the printers on ot
  9. Hi everyone, I've had quite a lot of problems with our U2 now. We've had it for maybe 4-5 years and it has print a lot. Here's the previous post when I first asked about its problems I ended up replacing the teflon coupler, the bowden tube and the nozzle in september this year and the prints were coming out good, but now they're horrible. From what I see, I know that it is some underextrusion problem, but I don't quite know what to do since all the parts that I thought could be the source of the problem are new. Here's how the prints come out : I get the
  10. Hi, it is not a problem yet because the prints are still coming out great but our U2E+ is making a strange «grinding» noise when traveling to the x direction. Here's a video of how it sounds. Although I oiled the axles a lot to try to get rid of the sound, it is still here. Any clue on why it makes that and how to resolve to problem? Thank you! :) Sandrine
  11. Rebonjour tous, une des vis du moteur s'est totalement dévissée. Elle était tombée par terre et je ne l'avais pas vu. Je crois bien que c'était la cause du problème. Je lance une impression à l'instant.
  12. J'ai plus l'impression que c'est la calibration entre les axes puisqu'à partir d'un moment, la machine fait son lift switch au mauvais endroit. Oui, il y a également un shift entre les couches dans l'axe des y cette fois, mais c'était dans l'axe des x l'impression d'avant.
  13. Mon premier layer est également toujours quadrillé alors qu'il était impeccable avant (bien sûr je ne parle pas du début d'infill, mais bien de la couche en-dessous).
  14. Bonjour, alors qu'elle venait de compléter une impression sans défaut, la tête de ma ultimaker 3 extended s'est mise à faire un bruit horrible en retournant au home sans raison apparente et elle se désaxe pendant les impressions depuis ce temps. J'ai recalibré ses axes et la lift switch. (voir photos des deux essais) mais sans succès. Elle continue de se désaxer pendant les impressions après. J'ai fait un factory reset, j'ai updaté le firmware, mais même résultat. J'ai aussi tracé des lignes sur les axes et les poulies pour voir d'où pouvait venir le problème, mais elles restent toutes bien en
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