Hero_s

Alright, I haven't touch the temperature/speed settings, so it might be a bad batch... I'll look at it closely. Thanks again.

Hi again Geert_2, I didn't know there was different ends to the bowden tubes, but now it's in a correct position. Good to know. I have tried every single step in your message and everything went as well as you could expect. After that, I still couldn't figure out what was wrong. Since I suspected the print head to be the cause of my problem, I decided to replace the teflon coupler again. Even though it didn't show important signs of use and is still quite new, I guess it was the problem 'cause the printings seem fine for now. Could it be possible that it worn out faster for some reason? (thank you very much for your help, so much time for such a little piece... )

Thank you! Even though I did most of those, I'll try again and see what happens! I'll come back to you.

Yeah, I've been dealing with this since September and I still haven't found the answer...

No, I use the same software with the same profile for my two other printers and everything works with the others. I tried to switch the exact same file from my U2E+ to this printer. It is a successful print with the U2E+, but fails with the U2

Yes, I also thought about it, but even after cleaning the nozzle the problem remains. Also, when the brim comes out, it's almost ok, so a clogged nozzle doesn't seem to be the problem.

Hi, thanks for your answer. Yes, the knurled wheel is ok.

Hi, I wanted to know which hidden setting is the cause for this difference between the number of meters and the print time of the same model, but on two different printers. As you can see, the print on the U3E takes 7h32 min with 9,16 m while the same stl on the U2E takes 6h41 min and 8,70 m. Both print setup have a grid infill pattern at 20%, the same brim and the same layer height. From what I see, they are identical. I use Cura 3.4 since my computer's software is too old to support the newer versions. I noticed this difference between the printers on other models too. So, any idea on what could be different in this case between the two printers? Sandrine

Hi everyone, I've had quite a lot of problems with our U2 now. We've had it for maybe 4-5 years and it has print a lot. Here's the previous post when I first asked about its problems I ended up replacing the teflon coupler, the bowden tube and the nozzle in september this year and the prints were coming out good, but now they're horrible. From what I see, I know that it is some underextrusion problem, but I don't quite know what to do since all the parts that I thought could be the source of the problem are new. Here's how the prints come out : I get the same result with different filament and different gcodes, so that's not the problem. Before every try, I also clean the feeder, but it immediately gets dirty when it prints. I think the problem might be in the print head because, when the material is forwarded, it's not grinded at all. You can see on the picture that it begins to deteriorate when it starts printing. Any idea on how to deal with this? Sandrine

Hi, it is not a problem yet because the prints are still coming out great but our U2E+ is making a strange «grinding» noise when traveling to the x direction. Here's a video of how it sounds. Although I oiled the axles a lot to try to get rid of the sound, it is still here. Any clue on why it makes that and how to resolve to problem? Thank you! :) Sandrine

Exact!

Rebonjour tous, une des vis du moteur s'est totalement dévissée. Elle était tombée par terre et je ne l'avais pas vu. Je crois bien que c'était la cause du problème. Je lance une impression à l'instant.

J'ai plus l'impression que c'est la calibration entre les axes puisqu'à partir d'un moment, la machine fait son lift switch au mauvais endroit. Oui, il y a également un shift entre les couches dans l'axe des y cette fois, mais c'était dans l'axe des x l'impression d'avant.

Mon premier layer est également toujours quadrillé alors qu'il était impeccable avant (bien sûr je ne parle pas du début d'infill, mais bien de la couche en-dessous).

Bonjour, alors qu'elle venait de compléter une impression sans défaut, la tête de ma ultimaker 3 extended s'est mise à faire un bruit horrible en retournant au home sans raison apparente et elle se désaxe pendant les impressions depuis ce temps. J'ai recalibré ses axes et la lift switch. (voir photos des deux essais) mais sans succès. Elle continue de se désaxer pendant les impressions après. J'ai fait un factory reset, j'ai updaté le firmware, mais même résultat. J'ai aussi tracé des lignes sur les axes et les poulies pour voir d'où pouvait venir le problème, mais elles restent toutes bien en place. Ma prochaine option est de regarder la carte mère. Aviez-vous des idées de solutions à essayer?

Alright, so after a few prints, the problem came back. I tried @porsche1 solution and increased the nozzle temperature to 220 'C. For now, it seems to be working fine.

I don't know if I can post this since the contest is from another company, even though the prints are made with an ultimaker, but if you want to see more pictures and read the whole description, here it is: https://bigrep.com/design-award/?contest=photo-detail&photo_id=30367

Hi, I got to do some tests for a 3d printed chair design contest and I ended up with an interesting result! With a 20% black PLA grid infill and a shell of 0.1mm with transparent CPE, you can fully see the shape of the infill. The chair scale is 1:20. See for yourself :

No I didn't clean the bed because the bad extrusion wasn't at the same place each time and only began after the brim. I didn't suspect that it could have been the problem.

I disassembled the print head to take a look at the teflon coupler and it seemed fine. A chunk of plastic came out of the print head while I was doing it, see the picture attached.It maybe had nothing to do with the problem, I didn't really see where it fell from. I cleaned the feeder again. The pictures are from before the cleaning. I did it with a toothbrush and I oiled the mechanism with some magnalube. It wasn't that dirty, but I guessed it helped. For now, it seems to be printing fine again. Thanks for the tips!

Hi, I've been having real weird problems recently with my ultimaker 2+ that has been printing perfectly fine for over 2 years. The brim of the print is fine, but then, when the object begins to print, the filament doesn't stick to the plate and creates a «broken» layer. I cleaned the extruder and the nozzle, recalibrated the build plate, change the filament but nothing seems to work. The filament also shows a weird grinding pattern. What could the problem be?

Hi, I was trying to change the filament in my U2 and it got stuck in the extruder. When I tried to get it out with pliers it broke at the exact beginning of the extruder and it is now impossible to grab it with pliers. I tried to push it back in with an other filament while holding the «release button» on the extruder, but it doesn't want to move. The reverse action or the extruder doesn't do anything either. What can I do? Can I disassemble the extruder to get it out or is it dangerous/too hard to do?

I finally solved the problem and here's how I did it: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/51531-brand-new-bb-core-clogged?page=1&sort=#reply-190879

Hi again, I FINALLY MANAGED TO UNCLOG THE PRINTCORE. (multiple celebration emojis here) . I began with hot and cold pulls with PLA at 230°C and needle poking through the nozzle and somehow, a brownish mixture came out of the nozzle. Just a bit, but it was enough to give me some king of hope. I kept doing it with a piece of blue PLA to see if the color would flow through the nozzle. Here's how it looked like: I switched between a blue and a yellow piece of filament to see if it was getting any better. As you suggested, I «vigourously move the PLA in and out the extruder (2 or 3 times) then press hard and yank out.» Eventually, that combined with the hot and the cold pulls, chunks of burnt PVA began to stick to the PLA. This is the biggest one: I finally just kept the nozzle's temperature at 230°C and kept applying pressure with a piece of PLA filament at the top and the needle poking the end whenever nothing came out. A bit like this: After 3h of trying plus everything I did before my post, the printcore was finally free. Here's a look of the some tips of filament I used: I would say the the most helpful part was applying pressure at the top and sticking the needle whenever nothing came out. I got them at the local drugstore, they're used for insulin injections. And that how it ends, I hope.

Hi again, I wrote this post not so long ago https://ultimaker.com/en/community/51243-super-clogged-printcore?page=last I wasn't able to unclogged it so I got a new BB core and started a print with it. At first, everything went well but it stopped halfway. You can see the first layer and how I found my print the next morning. The PVA filament got stuck in the feeder and stopped extruding. This is how it looked like: I cleaned the feeder and tried to start my print again, but then the nozzle jammed. I tried the atomic method to unclogged it at 260 °C. At first, the filament came out of the nozzle looking like this: Then, nothing would come out of the nozzle and it seems to be ultra-super-clogged again, even though it's the printcore's first print. I suspect that the filament's old age is responsible for all my troubles, so I opened up a new PVA package of filament and it was much more stiffed than the old one. The tip of the filament used for the many tries of the atomic method all look like this, they don't seem to reach the hot part of the printcore: . . . As suggested in the previous post, I tried to leave the printcore at a temperature of 225°C for the filament to melt and come out, but it did nothing. Except it maybe «cooked» it even more. I really don't know. I guess the next step will be the needle. I got one from the drugstore, but the only one tiny enough to fit it wasn't very strong and broke when I tried to insert it. . . . SO: . Could the age of the filament be the problem? At what temperature should the atomic method be done for PVA? Could it be a possible solution to just add some drops of water in the pipe to «melt» the PVA inside? . . BONUS: my print was also glued to the buildplate. I put it in the freezer and was able to get it off. At least, something I did worked...