Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

V3DPrinting

Member
  • Content Count

    164
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by V3DPrinting

  1. HI @smartavionics Using wider lines for the infill doesn't save any time, just more material and weight on the print. And yes I have used wider lines : 0,75mm line width for a 0,8 mm nozzle. I've also made a test with a 0,8 mm line width, but it doesn't change the behavior. I may have a go on your suggestion for a 1,00 line width with the 0,8 mm nozzle, but it will increase the pressure in the nozzle so retraction and coasting tuning might be a bit more tricky. Generally, I am setting a lower line width than the nozzle size for these reasons. I think th
  2. UP ! I still have the issue with the bottom layers being oversized using a 0.8 mm nozzle. As there is no issues printing the same part with a 0.6 mm nozzle it may be related to the slicer. I need to print a big flat part in many chunks and a 0.8mm nozzle would save me a lot of time. Has anyone a workaround ? Thanks in advance
  3. I have completed my order, but with some quality issues on the S5. I have played with the combing to realize that retraction was a good culprit as with no combing, I still have the issue on my cylinders and lots of stringing. So I have increased it to 8mm and 35 mm/s, and the result was much better. I have also decreased the temp by 5°C. These setting provide an acceptable but not good print due to striging and still over sized cylinders. Advice much appreciated !
  4. HI to all I am printing a casing for a customer of mine, but as there are many of them ordered, I print on 2 UM3E, 1 UM S5 and a highly modified Mankati XT Plus (Duet3d, Bondtech, E3D V6) All printers are using 0.6 nozzles with ColorFabb PLA Economy White (3dSolex Hardcore for the Ultimaker). I use Simplify 3D for the Mankati slicing and Cura 4,0 for the Ultimakers. I have an issue printing 2 small 2mm pins which are a bit touchy to print with a 0,6 nozzle, but I manage to have something acceptable : Pretty good results on the Mankati
  5. Thanks for the feedback Yes I've checked the filament diameter and it was the right one. I have also played with the flow rate, dropping it to 90%, but with no success. BTW, the very same filament (same spool, same diameter, 100% flow rate as it's PLA) on the same printer, with the same printhead, but a 0.6 nozzle printing the same part does not create the "elephant foot". I have just swapped the nozzle on my 3d Solex Hardcore. So I believe there is something not properly handled in Cura on the solid infill feature.
  6. Here it is ! Thanks for your expertise. UMS5_Cube plein test.3mf
  7. Hi to all I am trying to print with a 0,8 mm nozzle on my S5, using Cura 4,0. I have used the printcore AA 0,8 profile and printed a calibration cube in PLA, 200 microns resolution I have done some tuning on the temps (nozzle and bed) and material flow, but whatever I set, I still have an elephant foot on all the solid infill layers. So the 5 first layers are consistently at 30,5 mm for a cube of 30 mm side, for the rest of the layers I have a 30 mm +/- 0,05 cube. See picture I forgot to mention that printing with a 0,6 no
  8. Topic can be closed. I have recreated one in the Cura section, which is more appropriate.
  9. I forgot to mention that printing with a 0,6 nozzle with a profile derived from the AA 0.4 works fine, no elephant foot at all. And yes, I am using 3D Solex Hardcores, so I am able to swap nozzles. Also I have noticed an excess of material on the top layers Has anyone a clue ?
  10. Hi to all I am trying to print with a 0,8 mm nozzle on my S5, using Cura 4,0. I have used the printcore AA 0,8 profile and printed a calibration cube in PLA, 200 microns resolution I have done some tuning on the temps (nozzle and bed) and material flow, but whatever I set, I still have an elephant foot on all the solid infill layers. So the 5 first layers are consistently at 30,5 mm for a cube of 30 mm side, for the rest of the layers I have a 30 mm +/- 0,05 cube. See picture Thanks for your feedback David
  11. Yes aluminium plate would have been great ! But the project was cancelled at Ultimaker, so we would get an extra glass plate. I am thinking of having some glass plates done by my local supplier for my S5. It's not cheaper, but I suspect quality is better as far as I can see on my Mankati.
  12. Sorry I clarify my point. Printing ABS with PVA doesn't work well for warping, not consistent compared to Dimafix spray.
  13. Hi Kman Being a service provider, PVA is a PITA to manage (application, removal) so I use sprays mostly. Printing ABS with PVA doesn't make the trick, generally I go with Dimafix, but for that specific grade 3D Lac is sufficient. I use glass plates from my local supplier on a Mankati Full-scale XT Plus, 4mm heat tempered glass made to measures, without chipping issues so far. What's why I'm wondering if there isn't an issue with the genuine Ultimaker S5 glass plate.... BTW it would have been good to have the aluminium build plate.
  14. In addition, finishing the print run, I had another time the same chipping issue. Hopefully it was on the same glassplate. So now it is really dead on both sides. Has someone had the same issues with the S5 glass plates ?
  15. That's unconsistent under extrusion to me, like a partially clogged nozzle or wrong settings (extrusion multiplier too low or printing too fast or hot end temperature too low) Could you please indicate your settings and material used ? David
  16. Dear community members I have an S5 for 3 months or so and I'm suddenly facing issues with the glass plate chipping when printing with modified ABS (FormFutura Titan X). I print on 2 Ultimaker 3 Extended for more than a year and know that PETG is prone to do that sort of damages. Mainly if the first layer is too squished. I print on the plate with a very thin layer of 3D Lac (not Dimafix) with a moderately hot bed : 80°C (minimum temp according to FormFutura guidelines). First layer is not squished at all. The print finished yesterday around 10 pm and I
  17. Good news! The print completed in 2h20 without any issues, printing with the Hardcore + 0.6 Everlast nozzle So the problem was too much moisture in the filament.
  18. I have finally managed to make the test. I am successfully printing ColorFabb PA CF with an 3d Solex Hardcore + 0.6 Everlast nozzle for now more than 1h without any flaws on an UM3. The part is a gear printed at 150 microns layer height, 270°C printing temperature, 50°C Bed, 70 mm/s print speed with infill speed at 40 mm/s, fan 20%. So with the same parameters as in the failed tests. The only difference is the spool had been dried for 6 hours at 70°C early this week and kept in a sealed bag or a dry box since. BTW, the print surface is very good now, wh
  19. I have dried the filament for 6 hours at 70°C on Monday. I have made a perfect 2h print with it on my printer with E3D V6. So there is a relationship between moisture and softening temperature. Filament needs to be very dry in order not to soften too much. I still need to do a test on UM with the Hardcore. I expect to do it this afternoon
  20. I am now facing the same jamming issues on my printer with E3D V6, but after 1 hour printing approx. Parts which printed well on wednesday are now jamming the hotend (0.2 mm layer height, 280°C, Bed 50°C, speed 40mm/s) Same for parts printed at 0,15mm layer height, 270°C, speed 40 mm/s I have lowered the temp to 265°C for 0,15mm layer height keeping speed at 40 mm/s in order to maintain the flow. I have also opened the front of the printer to decrease the temp of the air cooling the hotend. Still jamming the hotend after 1 hour printing. That confirms the
  21. John It is not easy to create the right conditions with that material as print speed is pretty low (30 - 40 mm/s) and temp pretty high 280°C for a 0,2 mm layer height. Increasing the nozzle diameter will lead to a temp increase so increase the problem. I print some grades of ABS at high temp : 270°C with the 3D Solex hardcore. No issues at all. Of course it's with a standard 0,4 brass nozzle, but it doesn't have any impact on the current problem. I have also printed ColorFabb HT on UM3 with the Hardcore without issues. Printing Temp is also 270°C T
  22. No it's a single extrusion job, so only one print core involved. Here's a picture of the old version 2017 on the left and the new one 2018 on the right. Less fins on the new version. And less than the original Printcore. Agreed. Maybe gluing thermistors on the dissipator would give some indications, but that means testing equipment and time. Being a service provider, I don't have the time for that. Yes maybe Carl @swordriff or @gr5 have an idea on how to solve the problem, linked to that particular filament. I haven'
  23. As the issue appears in the very first layers and the nozzle itself is not clogged at all, the print core is not cooling properly for that special filament. Or more precisely, the filament thermal conductivity is much higher so the heat is building up in the filament more easily. I printed the same part on UM S5, same settings or so, same print core but standard 0.6 brass nozzle, with ColorFabb PA Neat without any issues. Interesting. I have managed to print a bigger part with PA CF at 0.1 layer height with an E3D v6 and 0.6 nozzle without any
  24. On UM3 I have Bondtech QR 3.0 extruders. On UM S5, my last attempt it's stock. Layer height is 150 microns, bed 50°C nozzle 270°C. I've used the standard speeds for Nylon settings in both cases.
  25. Hi I am trying to print Carbon Filled PA from ColorFabb on my Ultimaker 3 and Ultimaker S5, but I am having some jamming in the print core. I am using 3d Solex Hardcore with an EverLast 0.6 nozzle. The heat builds up in the hardcore, so the filament softens well after the heat break and jams the hardcore up to the bowden tube if the print is left unattended. It is my second attempt, on the first one the Hardcore was new and after some tests was not able to print even with PLA due to a defect in the heatbreak, Thanks to Carl from 3d Solex, the iss
×
×
  • Create New...